Author Topic: Donkey Kong Replica: Scratch build using Gaetan's plans - 95% done (Read 95972 times)

johnrt · « **Reply #280 on:** January 02, 2016, 07:05:46 pm »

I'm NOT happy with the 60-in-1. Way too crappy. So I just ordered an ArcadeSD. Man, the original board may be cheaper! (But not as flexible)

DeLuSioNal29 · « **Reply #281 on:** January 03, 2016, 02:24:47 pm »

Good call. The 60-in-1 decent for my 7 year old. But if you're serious (which you are), the ArcadeSD is the way to go.

Did you ever figure out how to decase the TV? In my other arcade machine, I removed my Betson 27" monitor from the bracket and built a shelf for the chassis to rest on. Originally, the bracket was protruding out of the back and wouldn't allow the back door to close. But I managed to shoehorn everything in there and it worked out great!

D

johnrt · « **Reply #282 on:** January 04, 2016, 02:27:24 am »

Quote from: DeLuSioNal29 on January 03, 2016, 02:24:47 pm

Did you ever figure out how to decase the TV? In my other arcade machine, I removed my Betson 27" monitor from the bracket and built a shelf for the chassis to rest on. Originally, the bracket was protruding out of the back and wouldn't allow the back door to close. But I managed to shoehorn everything in there and it worked out great!

Well, no. Not yet. But I do have an idea in my head somewhere.

My monitor is 20" so I don't think space should be a problem.

johnrt · « **Reply #283 on:** January 05, 2016, 11:40:09 am »

Quote from: ChanceKJ on January 02, 2016, 04:51:59 pm

a=40mm
b=40mm
c=40mm
d=15mm

Suddenly I realized that my youngest son is a tinsmith apprentice, so I outsourced this task to him:

Made from aluminium. He also made one from steel!

And I also made the power intake (that I did by myself, although my son provided the aluminium plate for it:

vwalbridge · « **Reply #284 on:** January 05, 2016, 11:49:04 am »

Looking very nice. A big advantage knowing a metal-work guy.

johnrt · « **Reply #285 on:** January 11, 2016, 11:22:23 am »

This was the package I feared the most. Normally I should have paid additional $100 in customs for this. Fortunately Phoenix Arcade sets the value to $40 and suddenly it's value is equal to the limit for customs, so no additional charge!

* johnrt happy!

vwalbridge · « **Reply #286 on:** January 11, 2016, 11:24:39 am »

Quote from: johnrt on January 11, 2016, 11:22:23 am

Fortunately Phoenix Arcade sets the value to $40 and suddenly it's value is equal to the limit for customs, so no additional charge!

Now that is a classy vendor.

johnrt · « **Reply #287 on:** January 12, 2016, 06:33:04 pm »

The ArcadeSD works great! Much better sound than the 60-in-1, and it boots in seconds (actually it boots faster than the monitor). Does anyone know if you can initialize several SD-cards on it and thereby swap SD-cards to change games? It would be great if you could make one SD-card for 8-way games, and one for 4-way games for example. I don't have an additional SD-card to test this yet.

ChanceKJ · « **Reply #288 on:** January 12, 2016, 11:26:03 pm »

johnrt · « **Reply #289 on:** January 13, 2016, 02:58:36 am »

Quote from: ChanceKJ on January 12, 2016, 11:26:03 pm

Yep,

I have one SD Card with all 6 DK games, the other with everything else. Scores stay on the cards too.

Cool! Thanks!

johnrt · « **Reply #290 on:** January 13, 2016, 01:06:18 pm »

So today I received a little package from Canada! Thanks Chance,

I really appreciate this! And kudos for writing the ø and å correctly.

This is going on the cab, I just need some tiny black screws.

And yesterday I mounted two power sockets, each one controlled by a switch (see earlier posts).

ChanceKJ · « **Reply #291 on:** January 14, 2016, 02:27:09 am »

johnrt · « **Reply #292 on:** January 15, 2016, 02:53:24 pm »

I should have been making the monitor frame, but the past 14 days it's been like -15 degrees Celsius outside (that is 5 degrees Fahrenheit). And since I don't have a garage or any other indoor place to work, all I can do is wait for a little warmer weather. Meanwhile I'm concentrating on the details. So tonight I made a protective plastic cover for the ArcadeSD (it's expensive) and labeled the test/service-button bracket my son made for me.

When mounting it to the cab I noticed that something were wrong... See if you can find the error (Ok, I had ONE beer).

Anyway, this is how it's supposed to be:

These details were made while watching the last episode of John's Arcade on my Out Run bartop

ChanceKJ · « **Reply #293 on:** January 15, 2016, 05:40:45 pm »

johnrt · « **Reply #294 on:** January 16, 2016, 04:42:05 am »

Quote from: ChanceKJ on January 15, 2016, 05:40:45 pm

You might want to label that service switch as "On/Off", unlike the real deal in a nintendo cab, the ArcadeSD requires a maintained switch.

Well, no. This switch is a ON-OFF-ON switch (GND in the middle), so i wired both TEST and SERVICE to it.

Dal1980 · « **Reply #295 on:** January 16, 2016, 05:30:03 am »

Lol I like the mistake you made although the jamma board will protect the plexi from damage, it's expensive stuff.

I'm impressed by not only every inch of this build but the knowledge and passion for detail driving it!

Do you guys have some sort of kit to kill the juice when decasing tv/CRT's? I was warned when I was a child to stay away from even the back of a covered TV so the fear is deep when I think about decasing!

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

johnrt · « **Reply #296 on:** January 16, 2016, 01:26:33 pm »

Quote from: Dal1980 on January 16, 2016, 05:30:03 am

Do you guys have some sort of kit to kill the juice when decasing tv/CRT's? I was warned when I was a child to stay away from even the back of a covered TV so the fear is deep when I think about decasing!

Well, I use one of my multimeter leads like this. Just connect the alligator clip to ground (chassis) and stick the screwdriver into the anode.

johnrt · « **Reply #297 on:** January 16, 2016, 01:34:06 pm »

The temperature outside increased to about -6 degrees today (that's 21 degrees Fahrenheit), so I went outside and cut the monitor frame. I need to add something to mount the TV chassis, but I do have a plan for this in my head somewhere.

I reused some old computer PSU molex connectors for the Test/Service button. It's no problem reusing these, just solder the wires to the pins.

The coin door is now completely wired:

Memorex · « **Reply #298 on:** January 17, 2016, 05:41:35 am »

Many nice details on this build! Much of your tips will come in handy the day(year?) I get my thumb out and start my own DK build

johnrt · « **Reply #299 on:** January 18, 2016, 03:32:29 pm »

Finally I'm "done" with the TV frame. I think I solved this quite well. The TV is double insulated so there's no need for a metal frame for this (it was originally plastic). I'll see if I can mount it inside the cab tomorrow. Over this frame I will also have a cardboard bezel.

Some spacers between the PCB and the wooden base.

Cutout for the TV buttons and remote receiver.

emphatic · « **Reply #300 on:** January 18, 2016, 04:37:15 pm »

That service/test switch is very clever.

johnrt · « **Reply #301 on:** January 19, 2016, 06:12:00 pm »

Tonight I feel like I've reached a barrier with this build. The monitor is inside the cab, it fits and it works! I have measured its position from the numbers Chance gave to me and it's dead on! It's angle is also checked and even that is dead on!

First I screwed some "rails" on the inside of the cab (after measuring for a while!). I used 5 screws for each rail.

Testing the frame:

Back side view:

And we have ignition!

Later I'm gonna mount a piece of plywood to protect the neck like this. (This piece of wood is my spare CP).

So what's left?
- Bezel plexi.
- Inner bezel.
- Artwork.
- Wiring marquee and downlights.
- Back door (It just needs painting).

Man, this is almost done!

vwalbridge · « **Reply #302 on:** January 19, 2016, 06:23:25 pm »

Crazy how much that TV looks like a Sanyo 20EZ.

johnrt · « **Reply #303 on:** January 19, 2016, 06:33:58 pm »

Quote from: vwalbridge on January 19, 2016, 06:23:25 pm

Crazy how much that TV looks like a Sanyo 20EZ.

It's a Samsung. :-)

What's nice about it is that it remembers its last state. So when I power up the cab, it turns itself on and with help from my SCART-RGB solution it automatically selects the correct input. So it's the perfect arcade TV! I have a larger Philips TV, and that one does not select the correct input when powered on, so apparently the trick doesn't work on all TV's. :-) I also found the service manual for the Samsung. All adjustments is done electronically with the remote so it's a quite modern TV. Hopefully it'll last for years!

ChanceKJ · « **Reply #304 on:** January 19, 2016, 07:28:26 pm »

johnrt · « **Reply #305 on:** January 19, 2016, 07:41:48 pm »

Quote from: ChanceKJ on January 19, 2016, 07:28:26 pm

Oh, some degenerate bastard snuck into your house and painted the coin box white... I'm sorry to be the one to give you the bad news.

I know right? I just hate it when that happens.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

johnrt · « **Reply #306 on:** January 20, 2016, 05:41:19 pm »

Minor update: Marquee LED strip mounted.

It resulted in a nice and even marquee light.

Although a little bright, so I mounted this dimmer:

The wires to the marquee are hidden in this cable channel:

Too detailed?

ChanceKJ · « **Reply #307 on:** January 20, 2016, 07:40:36 pm »

johnrt · « **Reply #308 on:** January 27, 2016, 03:43:17 pm »

I mounted a switch inside the cab to turn on/off the downlights under the CP. As mentioned earlier my son made a few of those coin door brackets for the service switch. I just used another one of those:

vwalbridge · « **Reply #309 on:** January 27, 2016, 03:50:44 pm »

The downlights are a cool feature. I bet it looks even better in person. Bonus points for having an on/off switch for it.

johnrt · « **Reply #310 on:** February 08, 2016, 04:59:26 pm »

I have been on a Cisco training course in Stockholm for a week, so there hasn't been much cab building lately. And I have been playing this cab a LOT!!!

Well, tonight I primed the back door:

I also made the neckboard protection panel:

And before I went to Stockholm I repainted the speaker panel. My fillings started to rise from the wood, so I sanded them down and repainted all over the cab, also on the top. It looks much better now!

And last a pic from underneath the CP:

johnrt · « **Reply #311 on:** February 14, 2016, 07:45:12 am »

Back door painted and lock mounted. I just need a metal grill over the vent. Not a big deal and it will not count on the finished percentage.

The cab is now only missing its artwork:

I even have a mascot watching over it:

And some days ago I FOUND another 20" Samsung CRT TV. I took it in, fired it up and it works great! I'll keep as a spare, or maybe... another project...

Our gaming-cave is slowly coming together:

johnrt · « **Reply #312 on:** February 14, 2016, 08:09:37 am »

Ohh... And whats A and/or B? Anyone?

vwalbridge · « **Reply #313 on:** February 14, 2016, 10:29:17 am »

A=4 cm exactly.

johnrt · « **Reply #314 on:** February 14, 2016, 10:44:01 am »

Quote from: vwalbridge on February 14, 2016, 10:29:17 am

A=4 cm

Thanks!

DeLuSioNal29 · « **Reply #315 on:** February 14, 2016, 04:51:56 pm »

Coming together nicely!

D

bplail · « **Reply #316 on:** February 17, 2016, 04:43:30 am »

looks so good! keep up the excellent work!

johnrt · « **Reply #317 on:** February 22, 2016, 05:42:45 pm »

To fasten the serial number plate I bought these small black nails. They were a little too long so I just cut them in half.

It really looks good on the cab:

And here's the keychain:

Brizzle · « **Reply #318 on:** February 22, 2016, 05:48:38 pm »

VERY NICE!

ChanceKJ · « **Reply #319 on:** February 23, 2016, 12:44:37 am »


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