Donkey Kong Replica: Scratch build using Gaetan's plans - 95% done

[johnrt]

Ever since I built the Fix it Felix bartop based on Superfrog's Popeye, I've fancied a full size Nintendo cabinet. They are as good as impossible to get hold of here in Norway so If I want one I have to build it myself from scratch. I've been watching Gaetan's and ChanceKJ's project to produce an accurate set of plans and I'm gonna use that as base for this build. It will be a Donkey Kong replica.

I will probably need to make some compromises along the way. For example: Finding an arcade monitor is also close to impossible. Getting a CRT TV is very easy, they are given away all over the country. But if I can make the outside of the cab look as close to an original as possible, I'm happy with that. I'm also debating on making some minor changes on the back of the cab making it possible to have T-molding all the way around. Not sure about this though.

I already possess the top and lower marquee brackets and I have ordered a repro coin door which may arrive this week. The parts that are hidden inside the cab I will either fabricate myself or find some alternatives locally.

First thing to do is making a side panel template from 12mm particle board (it's on sale this week at my local woodshop), and then route the side panels out of 15mm plywood. It has to be plywood!

Today I printed the side panel from Gaetan's plans on a HP DesignJet T770 in real size. I did some measurements on this printout and it's exactly as the plans says down to the last millimeter.

And as usual in my world: this project will take a lot of time to finish!

[dmckean]

I'll be following this closely. I want to scratch build one of these too someday.

[vwalbridge]

Those plans look much better than Jakobud's.

When I built my mini DK, I really struggled because Jakobud's plans didn't include any of the internal supports/cross members and angles.

This is definitely shaping up to be the year of the Nintendo cab. 

[johnrt]

Those plans look much better than Jakobud's.

When I built my mini DK, I really struggled because Jakobud's plans didn't include any of the internal supports/cross members and angles.

This is definitely shaping up to be the year of the Nintendo cab. 

I really like you Mini DK. And you applied T-molding all the way around. It does look better! Not sure what to do on a fullsize though.

[vwalbridge]

Those plans look much better than Jakobud's.

When I built my mini DK, I really struggled because Jakobud's plans didn't include any of the internal supports/cross members and angles.

This is definitely shaping up to be the year of the Nintendo cab. 

I really like you Mini DK. And you applied T-molding all the way around. It does look better! Not sure what to do on a fullsize though.

Thanks for your compliments! Taking the t-molding all the way around was nice because then I didn't have to worry about getting the edges of MDF smooth. For a replica, it will just depend on how really accurate you want to be. As another example, the back door on a DK cab has some "corner halving" and "grooves" that could be tricky to pull off without the right tools. Here is picture to better explain:


The above picture is the back-bottom-right-corner of a DK cab. You will notice that there is a groove for the right side and bottom side of the back door to rest. If you take the t-molding all the way around, it will actually make your life easier because then you don't have to deal will all these goove cuts.

Sorry, probably too much info right now for you at this stage but I'm just thinking out loud in my own head. Looking forward to watching how you sort out all the details. 

What are you using for the brains? Mame?

[johnrt]

What are you using for the brains? Mame?

No. It'll be JAMMA. Either a xx in 1 that'll boot directly to DK (if possible), but preferably an original DK.

[ChanceKJ]

John, If the budget allows for it, grab an ArcadeSD.  I've got a feeling if you de-case a 19" CRT VGA monitor you should be able to get it to fit. In fact I'm wondering how well a 19" VGA would fit inside a Sanyo 20EZ monitor frame (or any 19" frame for that matter), those shouldn't be too hard to come by, or at least have shipped. Then it could plug right into the Arcade SD directly.

http://thearcadeboneyard.com/monitors,frames_and_chassis/monitor_frames.php

I'm going to be following this build closely. 

[yotsuya]

John, If the budget allows for it, grab an ArcadeSD.  I've got a feeling if you de-case a 19" CRT VGA monitor you should be able to get it to fit. In fact I'm wondering how well a 19" VGA would fit inside a Sanyo 20EZ monitor frame (or any 19" frame for that matter), those shouldn't be too hard to come by, or at least have shipped. Then it could plug right into the Arcade SD directly.

http://thearcadeboneyard.com/monitors,frames_and_chassis/monitor_frames.php

I'm going to be following this build closely. 

19" PC CRT monitors don't fit 19" Arcade CRT frames. You're better off finding a 21" PC CRT if you want to put it in an arcade frame. Trust me - been there, done that.

[harveybirdman]

you know how you tell if it's a johnrt build?

huge pics are huge...

Someone let me know when this is done so I can come give kudos without burning through my data plan 

[yotsuya]

To clarify, PC CRT tubes are about an inch or so smaller all around. Remember back in the day when you would look at computer ads, and it would show "19 inch monitor (18.1 viewable)"? Those tubes really aren't 19 inches. If you try putting one in an arcade frame, there's a gap and the mounting holes don't line up. A 21 inch PC CRT monitor is closer to a 19 inch tube size and will fit better.

And honestly, don't even try putting a PC CRT in a Vertical Frame. It's really not wired for it. Find a horizontal frame and mount it vertically if you must.

[ChanceKJ]

OH YEAH!  i remember that.   John, what Paul said.

[dmckean]

A lot of the 21" PC monitors had big metal cages for extra shielding (so they could display high resolution without vignetting) and have extra depth compared to an arcade monitor or a TV because of it.  I would measure very carefully.

[jdbailey1206]

Those plans look much better than Jakobud's.

When I built my mini DK, I really struggled because Jakobud's plans didn't include any of the internal supports/cross members and angles.

This is definitely shaping up to be the year of the Nintendo cab. 

Yeah.  When I built my Nintendo cab it spontaneously burst into flames because I used the Jakobud plans.

[ChanceKJ]

Those plans look much better than Jakobud's.

When I built my mini DK, I really struggled because Jakobud's plans didn't include any of the internal supports/cross members and angles.

This is definitely shaping up to be the year of the Nintendo cab. 

Yeah.  When I built my Nintendo cab it spontaneously burst into flames because I used the Jakobud plans.

I warned you that would happen. 

[yotsuya]

Those plans look much better than Jakobud's.

When I built my mini DK, I really struggled because Jakobud's plans didn't include any of the internal supports/cross members and angles.

This is definitely shaping up to be the year of the Nintendo cab. 

Yeah.  When I built my Nintendo cab it spontaneously burst into flames because I used the Jakobud plans.

Hahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahaha!!!!!!

[ChanceKJ]

Oh, John here's the link to the Flickr album of my cab for quick reference. Let me know if you need anything else added.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/chancekj/albums/72157650487664889

[yotsuya]

A lot of the 21" PC monitors had big metal cages for extra shielding (so they could display high resolution without vignetting) and have extra depth compared to an arcade monitor a TV because of it.  I would measure very carefully.

Good point.  When I've used a 21" PC CRT, I tend to mount it to a board rather than worry about an arcade frame.

[jdbailey1206]

Those plans look much better than Jakobud's.

When I built my mini DK, I really struggled because Jakobud's plans didn't include any of the internal supports/cross members and angles.

This is definitely shaping up to be the year of the Nintendo cab. 

Yeah.  When I built my Nintendo cab it spontaneously burst into flames because I used the Jakobud plans.

Hahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahaha!!!!!!

Seriously.  It caught fire and set my whole finished room above the garage on fire.  Thankfully the fire department got there in time.

[johnrt]

I bought the chipboard today and have outlined the cab onto it. It's ready to cut. First a rough cut with a jigsaw, then I'm gonna use the router and a copy bit to make as accurate cuts as possible. I'm gonna take my time on this and make this template as accurate as I possibly can. Then I'm gonna mass produce this cabinet, build thousands of them for sale and become a billionaire! Then I'm gonna become the president of the planet Earth and ban the X-Arcade!

Well, it started to rain this evening so my plans to become a billionaire is delayed with a day or so.

[jdbailey1206]

Ah mammories.   Looks good like usual John.   

[ChanceKJ]

John, something to keep in mind as well. when you get around to building the square base that the cab sits on, you might want to build it an inch or two higher. Not so much as it looks goofy, but something that gives you a better standup angle when infant of the cab.  Keep in mind if you ever do get ahold of a real Nintendo cab it will be that much shorter.

[yotsuya]

John, something to keep in mind as well. when you get around to building the square base that the cab sits on, you might want to build it an inch or two higher. Not so much as it looks goofy, but something that gives you a better standup angle when infant of the cab.  Keep in mind if you ever do get ahold of a real Nintendo cab it will be that much shorter.

I heard that. I'm almost eye level with the top of Janky Kong.

[matsadona]

Maybe I'm missing something, but wouldn't it be better to align the back edge of the cabinet with the board edge? Then there would be one side less to cut... 

[matsadona]

Still, a great project that I will monitor closely since I have a dream of doing the same thing in the future.

[johnrt]

Maybe I'm missing something, but wouldn't it be better to align the back edge of the cabinet with the board edge? Then there would be one side less to cut... 

There's a groove on the long edges that has to be cut away...

[DeLuSioNal29]

I mounted a 19" de-cased PC CRT monitor in one of my cabs and it was easy using the method below.  I didn't bother with a frame although I did use the existing brackets in the machine (mine were made of wood but you could also use metal ones that are in the machine already).

I simply de-cased the monitor and attached this electrical gang box cover (90 cents at Lowes or Home Depot) to the monitor bolts on all 4 corners.


Then you simply rotate the covers to line up with the existing holes on the brackets and drill a hole for each.  Solid fit without the fuss and cheap as all heck.

DeLuSioNaL29

[yotsuya]

Janky, but it works. Great tip, DeL! 

[jdbailey1206]

Maybe I'm missing something, but wouldn't it be better to align the back edge of the cabinet with the board edge? Then there would be one side less to cut... 

There's a groove on the long edges that has to be cut away...

Word.  The bottom of sides  and the bottom piece  has about an inch space between the two.  And word to the height.  I thought about adding height to my base but in the end thought it would take away from the feeling of the cab.  These things were not made to be played by adults....

[johnrt]

The template was roughly cut with a jigsaw, and all the straight edges is routed. I used a long plate that was left ofter from when I renovated the kitchen as a guide for the router. So now I know that the straight edges are 100% straight.

I haven't done the curves yet. I'm thinking about making a template for the curves and then use that template to route my template... ehhh... you know...    Or do you guys have a better idea? I need the curves to be perfect.

Here's today's pics. The last picture shows the side panel template together with my still unfinished "Tully".

[johnrt]

The repro coin door from Plonka Games (http://www.plonkagames.co.uk/products.html) arrived today. It really looks nice! What kind of front plates are recommended. I see MikesArcade  has a couple of alternatives.

[yotsuya]

Unfortunately, if you want authentic/authentic-looking ones, you're going to have to drop some coin. I found some very close looking ones for $15 each.

These are close to them. Maybe you might get lucky.

https://www.eurocoin.co.uk/products/major-products/coin-validators/series-1-coin-acceptors/2921xxs1-s1-coin-acceptor

[johnrt]

Unfortunately, if you want authentic/authentic-looking ones, you're going to have to drop some coin. I found some very close looking ones for $15 each.

These are close to them. Maybe you might get lucky.

https://www.eurocoin.co.uk/products/major-products/coin-validators/series-1-coin-acceptors/2921xxs1-s1-coin-acceptor

Will that frontplates fit a standard DK coin door?

[yotsuya]

Unfortunately, if you want authentic/authentic-looking ones, you're going to have to drop some coin. I found some very close looking ones for $15 each.

These are close to them. Maybe you might get lucky.

https://www.eurocoin.co.uk/products/major-products/coin-validators/series-1-coin-acceptors/2921xxs1-s1-coin-acceptor

Will that frontplates fit a standard DK coin door?

They should. They fit perfectly on Janky Kong. I'm not a Griff-Richer, so I didn't need OMGASIKOTAHSIKI!!!!!!.

[dmckean]

They look really close. 

[ChanceKJ]

There's also the option of buying the vanity kits from Mikes Arcade and modifying the Nintendo button holders to turn the eject buttons into Coin up buttons.

[jdbailey1206]

There's also the option of buying the vanity kits from Mikes Arcade and modifying the Nintendo button holders to turn the eject buttons into Coin up buttons.

Who would do something so absurd?

[ChanceKJ]

Build added to the Nintendo Cab Stickey!
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,144583.0.html

[ChanceKJ]

There's also the option of buying the vanity kits from Mikes Arcade and modifying the Nintendo button holders to turn the eject buttons into Coin up buttons.

Who would do something so absurd?

You would, 
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,135095.msg1423439.html#msg1423439




chopperthedog too...
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,128979.msg1318195.html#msg1318195

[Gaetan]

Hi Johnrt !

Great a new Donkey Kong cab will be born. 
Nice to see that plans can help.

I will be following too.

You will do side panels with 15 mm plywood.
You will put 9/16" Nintendo T-Molding ?

Gaëtan

[johnrt]

Hi Johnrt !

Great a new Donkey Kong cab will be born. 
Nice to see that plans can help.

I will be following too.

You will do side panels with 15 mm plywood.
You will put 9/16" Nintendo T-Molding ?

Yes to both questions. At least that is the initial plan.