The SoulCalibur (first cabinet, first post)

[matt3o]

Long time lurker. Very much scared by the professional works I see here around, but they've been of great inspiration for my little project.

I'm totally not an expert in this field, I do not have experience in wood working... and I wasn't even a huge arcade player probably So do not expect too much... anyway this is where I am at the moment with my Soul Calibur project.

If there's any interested I'm more than willing to share blueprints and project files.

Everything starts with a DXF draft, I printed all the pieces and made a 1:10 scale model. That helped a lot.



Everything seems to be working. Compared to other projects I've seen (and original arcades) it's a little narrower on the sides. It's 160cm height, 60cm wide, 50cm deep. I have less room for the side graphics, but I gain approx 10cm of living space (I'm in a condo and I don't have a lot of space).

At the same time I ordered the PVC graphics. This is gonna be Soul Calibur themed of course.



I'm very happy how they came out, and the resolution is higher than I expected.



So everything starts from the sides. 16mm MDF. I don't have professional hardware, but it came out pretty well.



For the other side I just used the first one as reference.



Then the base





Also needed to drill the holes for the console since I couldn't find a CNC service. Fortunately It was easier than I thought.



So after one day of work this is where I'm at



Compared to what I see on this forum it's nothing... but I'm pretty happy with it and I knew it wasn't going to be perfect. For example I don't have a router, so I probably won't put a fancy frame around the corners...

I have more pictures, I'll be posting in coming days.

[vwalbridge]

Looking pretty good so far but I'd highly suggest getting a router. Surprised you made it look that good so far without one! 

Buy a cheap one or beg someone to borrow theirs. That cab is gonna need some t-molding! 

[harveybirdman]

Why so many admin buttons?  for volume control?

Good start, looking forward to more build pics.

[yotsuya]

Good luck with your build!

[Le Chuck]

Looking sharp!  Save some beer money up and go buy a cheap palm router and a few bits.  Worth the trouble and a great investment. 

[matt3o]

Thanks everybody!

I will evaluate getting a router...

Why so many admin buttons?  for volume control?

to tell the truth I didn't know what I was doing

But yeah, those would be pause, volume, mute, enter, ...

[RxBrad]

It kind of looks like you're using MDF as furring strips.  I'm no pro, but I'm not sure if I'd do that, personally.  I'd get some regular wood furring strips -- they're a bit more sturdy for structural stuff -- especially if you're using screws (which it looks like you may not be doing).

[Slippyblade]

How did you drill your plexi that cleanly?  I've always used a hole saw in reverse, but that leaves a LOT of crap that needs to be cleaned up with a file... 

[matt3o]

It kind of looks like you're using MDF as furring strips.  I'm no pro, but I'm not sure if I'd do that, personally.  I'd get some regular wood furring strips -- they're a bit more sturdy for structural stuff -- especially if you're using screws (which it looks like you may not be doing).

I'm actually usign both screws and nails. it's a huge learning process for me. If I had to start over I would probably use ply wood... MDF is a b@*&h! but like I said, total noob here. I'm pretty surprised myself by the result so far.

How did you drill your plexi that cleanly?  I've always used a hole saw in reverse, but that leaves a LOT of crap that needs to be cleaned up with a file... 

I used one of these



The bit was brand new and sharp as it could be. Please note that I used polycarb, not plexi. Plexi breaks where PC bends.

[Slippyblade]

The material difference might be the key.  Plexi would explode with a spade bit like that.

[matt3o]

Here is where I realized I made a big mistake by fixing the upper rear panel first... but ehy what can I do? I'm paying my inexperience.

Anyway I also added the keyboard tray and managed to find a way to fit the monitor.



Everything miracolously seems to work.



The panel it's a very nice 4:3, 21" Nec multisync model LCD2190Uxp. It's a SPVA screen, not the fastest reponse to be honest, but enough for my needs. I wanted to make it "rotable", but at the end I decided to keep it fixed for my first build.

[Slippyblade]

Unless I'm seeing some extreme angular distortion, that's not a 4:3 display.

[vwalbridge]

Why the keyboard?

[yotsuya]

Unless I'm seeing some extreme angular distortion, that's not a 4:3 display.

That's a 4:3. The angle is throwing you off.

[matt3o]

Unless I'm seeing some extreme angular distortion, that's not a 4:3 display.

technically aspect ratio is 1.3319 instead of 1.3334... but yeah I'd say it's 4:3

This is it http://www.nec-display.com/ap/en_display/lcd2190uxp/index.html

Why the keyboard?

why not?

I'm putting a linux inside, it may come handy.

[vwalbridge]

why not?

Because I never played an arcade growing up that had one.

In all seriousness, you can totally have a wireless keyboard/touchpad combo but just keep it elsewhere. There is no need to build an entire drawer just to house a keyboard. If you design your front end correctly, there is no need for a keyboard or mouse.

Linux or not... I think you will be surprised how useless that keyboard will become.

[matt3o]

why not?

Because I never played an arcade growing up that had one.

In all seriousness, you can totally have a wireless keyboard/touchpad combo but just keep it elsewhere. There is no need to build an entire drawer just to house a keyboard. If you design your front end correctly, there is no need for a keyboard or mouse.

Linux or not... I think you will be surprised how useless that keyboard will become.

you might be right. It seemed a good idea when I designed it. It was not difficult to add the drawer, so I don't regret adding the keyboard tray. I can always play "Typing of the Dead"

[matt3o]

Okay. So. I gave 2 hands of primer. The first one pure



The second one mixed with some black, so I guess the final hand will be easier.

Then I checked the console. Everything was surprisingly working.



It turned out that 16mm thickness for the console is a bit too much, the joystick handles don't stick out as much as I would have liked, but they still work. If I had a router I could have carved out a 4-5mm pocket for the joystick... oh well...

And finally a bit of messy wiring.



Everything seems to work but I need better cable managent. All wires need to lay over the switches otherwise they tend to stuck between the button and the microswitch.

The ipac2 is a nice piece of hardware, but I noticed some glitches under MAME while it works flawlessly inside the operating system. very weird. I have to dig into this.

[rablack97]

Once again......wireless keyboard in a drawer....



Your build is very clean sir, i like it!!!!!!

But your not gonna type over the front of that drawer is uncomfortable, and it looks wireless, so why build a drawer to store something that not connected to the machine.  Plus if you do type on it the weight is gonna make the drawer sage over time.

Drawers were big back in the day, cause bluetooth didnt exist for keyboards, so folks had to do drawers to keep store the wired keyboard...

Regardless, your build is nice with clean lines and your build technique is spot on........keep it up

[Pauly]

Want some cable porn?...check out ChanceKJ's cabinet. A Beautiful mind.

https://flic.kr/p/ojkjpe

As for me, since no one is going to be seeing that part, I'll wrap em up and shove them in. I've always sucked at cable management.

[matt3o]

Once again......wireless keyboard in a drawer....

okay. please let me explain my rationale.

First of all the drawer is steady like a rock. It doesn't wobble at all. So typing is okay (if you don't have to type too much )

The cabinet will be placed in a room where I basically have nowhere to "hide" the keyboard. The drawer is not strictly needed, but helps me keeping the keyboard near the arcade. It's just convinient to have it right there.

Hope it makes sense.

https://flic.kr/p/ojkjpe

oh my... so sexy...

[matt3o]

I couldn't resist and placed the side graphics Peachy!



First system check!



I made some more mistakes. First of all I forgot to order the white extra buttons. Secondly I bought the switches that the store was referring as "standard". Big mistake, they are incredibly low quality switches. Very stiff and inconsistent with one another. Some are "smooshy" some are more crispy. I really hate them, so I ordered a batch of cherry (I like a little of clicky feedback so I avoided the linear ones).

Finally all pieces together, but not finished yet.



I put a strip of 12v LEDs on the top, but it doesn't seem enough, I'll probably add a second strip. The logo on the top is too big, I don't know how I could be so stupid. I'll have to order a new one with fixed design. Of course I still miss the front graphics. Not sure if I'll add the coin door yet.

Front view



The amply is DROK Mini TDA7297F, very inexpensive and functional. Connected directly to the PC power supply. Only thing I noticed is that it gets a lot of interference and it tends to hiss a little. I'll see if I can do something about it.

I'm pretty happy with my first build and it's already 100% working. All in all it took me about 1 week to build excluding the prototyping phase. I'll probably need another couple of days to complete the missing bits, unless I decide to add the t-molding.

[vwalbridge]

I don't like the visible screws in the control panel, bezel and marquee. I also don't like the MAME logo displayed anywhere on a cab but that's just me.

Pretty good though for a first build. 

[yamatetsu]

vwalbridge beat me to it.

If that was my cab, I'd cover the screws with something like this :



I'd use black ones, though.

[matt3o]

vwalbridge beat me to it.

If that was my cab, I'd cover the screws with something like this :



I'd use black ones, though.

that's a nice idea acutally. I'll see if I can find them over here (and black)

[reptileink]

Not gonna lie, that's 1,000 times better than my first build, and I already had the cabinet...lol.

Not to beat a dead horse, but yea, Mame on a machine is baaad taste, but to each their own. I physically cringed when I scrolled down and saw the "Mame".

Also, the exposed screws/bolts aren't a big deal to me. My machine had them, and being a Punisher themed cab, I went with some heavy duty black bolts, and it looks a bit industrial/military. I would switch them out for carriage bolts with a smooth top, and nix those plastic covers as those are just going to get lost. Worst case, spray paint the tops of them black.

I also have to say it was a poor choice to not at least slot cut your sides/panel for t-molding, as you are never going to go back and do it now that the machine is all together. Also, you might risk scratching your side art trying to do it after the fact. Again, not a huge deal, but they do more than add the true arcade feel, but offer a bit of "bump" protection as well.

Great job though!

[harveybirdman]

What's the PC? PSX emulation?

Im going to give you so much ---steaming pile of meadow muffin--- if that thing doesn't play Soul Caliber at speed. 

Good first build though, and fast congratulations!

[matt3o]

Please note that I do not have a router and I do not have a working place where I can easily do wood jobs. So I have to live with that.

The "MAME" logo I guess is a matter of personal taste. I used it because the bottom of the screen was empty and I thought the mame logo was an easy solution. I like how it looks, it could have been anything else actually, but it seemed a logical solution.

I made really a lot of mistakes. I would do many things differently now, starting with the screen frame that it is definitely too thick. I like the industrial look the screws give actually. They are probably considered an heresy in the arcade world... but you know... this is my arcade, there are many like it, but this one is mine and believe me if I can do it, anyone can.

Now all my friends want one So, I guess I'll do things differently next time, first of all I need to find a place where I can freely work wood.

Anyhoo, thanks everybody for the suggestions. As I said most of the inspiration for my project came from this forum, I definitely couldn't do it without you.

[Le Chuck]

Good first outing.  I don't like  the CPO and bezel.  Too busy for my taste, the whole ensemble is a little garrish but that's a personal taste thing.  I do recommend changing your bolts over to a hex, gives a better appearance and is less likely to burr and drag on skin.  Double bonus points for security torx bolts.  Exposed bolts isn't that big a sin, most commercial machines were covered in them, just use black ones on black backgrounds and put some thought into the details.   

oh and buy a router

[harveybirdman]

Video of you playing Soul Calibur on that thing or GTFO 

Seriously you did a lot of great things on this!  The bolts exposed aren't a big deal at all.  And you weren't a moron who put 8 buttons on an arcade machine, that goes a long way to being accepted in the BYOAC cool kids club as far as I'm concerned.

And check out ZINC or EPSXE if your PC won't play Soul Caliber in MAME. 

[yotsuya]

The bezel and CP bolts aren't bad, because machines did do that, but the marquee ones don't look right. Superstar.