Wells Garnder 25 in K7193 Jumping at Edge (RESOLVED)

[harveybirdman]

Edit:  IF YOU HAVE THIS MONITOR AND IT's BENDING JUMPING AT THE EDGE, MAKE SURE SYNC IS HOOKED UP CORRECTLY FOR YOUR BOARD!!!!  This helped me tremendously, posting in case someone else has a similar problem http://arcadecontrols.com/BBBB/sync.html

Stupid me for not checking this first, and using the actual site first....  But hey at least I got the experience of doing a cap kit.



I have decided to go with the shotgun method and just replace all the Caps that came with my kit...  Looking for some help from the experts see most recent post for my progress thus far.



So I ordered a cap kit for my Wells K7193, some of the caps on the board look like the one pictured.

Is this normal behavior?  Should I replace all the caps or just the ones that look like this?

[Slippyblade]

Without a higher res image, that looks like adhesive to me.  I see the larger caps glued down all the time.

[harveybirdman]

Thanks man, I have a replacement in my kit so I'm going to swap it regardless..


NEXT Question....

According to my Cap Kit List this board should have caps to replace at C1, C2, and C3.... however what is on my board at those locations is below....   Please excuse my noob status but what are those?  If my guide says caps go there am I okay to put them there?

[harveybirdman]

Found my own answer...

http://forums.arcade-museum.com/archive/index.php/t-311768.html

Posted in case someone else has same question

[harveybirdman]

Okay so according to this thread over at KLOV

http://forums.arcade-museum.com/showthread.php?t=134818

My chassis has the fly back with the white knobs....   Is the advice there that I should go ahead and swap it with a new one regardless of any known issue sound?

Also I think I'm going to need to employ a technique similar to what is shown in the video below to move the heat sink enough to get the big ass cap underneath (I got a replacement in my kit).  I'm a little scared of desoldering the horizontal output transistor. 


https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=rqpouGZ8I-w#t=101

[harveybirdman]

Does anyone know what the correct voltage should be for C57?  The provided cap in my kit f looks significantly different (shorter) and unlike many of the other caps in my kit it has a lower voltage rating than what is currently on the chassis.

Edit: I swear my anxiety is too much sometimes, simply googled the cap list for the K7000 and found multiple sources showing the voltage for the C57 to be 200, not sure why the chassis had a 300 v in there but whatever.

[harveybirdman]

I have three caps left, figured out the C57 thing everything is going as good as can be expected then this...


I go to desolder the C57 Cap and the pad is almost completely gone....  Trying to research best way to fix..

Can anyone help?  It looks like what is left of the pad is in the right place for functionality... but... IDK Advice?

[chopperthedog]

I suppose you could bend the leg over and solder it to the nearest point on the same trace. 


good day.

[harveybirdman]

I suppose you could bend the leg over and solder it to the nearest point on the same trace. 


good day.

That's what I'm thinking too, I Think this one is a good candidate...

[harveybirdman]

Ok so I finished up and hooked up monitor,  my first ever cap kit is in the books.

Good news: I got some good experience and the jumping at the edges seems to have subsided and nothing blew up after the reconnect.


Bad news: I broke something.  See video below, not sure where to start troubleshooting.



Added Pic

[ed12]

congrad's on the cap kit install

now do yourself a favour and check the solder joint's on the bottom of the chassic
I bet u find a few cold 1's, a hint here is in your pic, that u up-loaded about
the cap land missing., right below in the same pic I see a bad joint

ed

[harveybirdman]

So before I send this thing to a professional I redid the jumper to the next component on the same trace where C57 had the lifted pad. Now I can get picture in focus but while trying to adjust to optimum the picture started to fade in and out.


I turned off power, it seems like I have read about this symptom before in the KLOV thread on K7000's but don't remember what the culprit was, any ideas?


EDIT: thw fade in out thing was a connectivity thing with the neckboard i tjink I have had it up and running for several minutes with nos issue, except for the one i did the cap kit in the first place. Tearing/jumping on the left/top (side with the annode)

[harveybirdman]

Video of the original behavior that remains after capping, what do I check next?

[harveybirdman]

I may have found my huckleberry...

check out this abomination at C51 below.....

Going to try to source a tantalum capacitor locally, can't wait to see if that fixes it
(.68uf 35V according to Ken in this thread! http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,13643.msg139571.html#msg139571)

[harveybirdman]

Getting better still an issue on the horizontal circuit though... but now I'm pissed I'm fixing this damn thing if its the last thing I do.

[harveybirdman]

Before I get crazy replacing pots, flyback, and resistors can someone school me on Sync - vs +?

Looking at this mess my Sync is hooked up to PIN 6, shouldn't it be on PIN 10 for JAMMA?

There's also a random unconnected yellow wire in my cab wonder if that's the vertical sync....

[harveybirdman]

Okay so I need someone to help me with this...

This is a JAMMA cabinet and it's currently hooked up like this



But everything I'm reading online states the JAMMA sends composite sync on the - H.... so Shouldn't it be hooked up like this?



Does anyone know?

[harveybirdman]

 

the whole issue the entire time was Sync, JAMMA standard appears to be indeed composite on - H not +H  simply changed the wire to a different pin and BLAM instant LOVE!!!!!  (still need a few adjustments, but this was CLEARLY the issue)