Slim NoName Multicade - Moving along

[otsep]

This is good, screw down the Lowe marquee bracket from the top, inside of the marquee lighting area. Rest the marquee glas into it and screw down the top bracket from the top. The lower bracket can be fixed.

I think I get what you're saying, my only issue would be drilling through the metal without popping out through the speaker panel.

Luckily, the speaker panel is not yet attached, so I have that to work with.

[otsep]

Could you attach the retainer down to the speaker panel from above by screwing through the bottom part of the retainer into the speaker panel and then slide the marquee in from above and use the top retainer to hold it in? Does that make sense? I can't really sketch what I'm trying to describe because I'm on my cell phone.

Makes sense.  I would need to figure out how to bend and attach the metal to the panel as my angle on the speaker panel top is not correct.

[BorgDog]

Since your speaker panel is not attached, with the speaker panel out could you screw your retainer up through the bottom, then put the speaker panel on?  Just need to leave the right space to slide the marquee in.

[bfauska]

I actually meant to be saying the same thing Chance said, no bending required. But BorgDog has a good point too.

[yamatetsu]

I would try to use magnets. Instead of using a lower bracket, go for a flat metal strip. Insert some magnets into the front of the lower marquee board. This should hold the metal strip in place. Attach some magnets to the lower back of the marquee plexi. The idea is that the metal strip is held to the board and the magnets at the back of the plexi hold on to the strip.
Bondo the gap between speaker panel / marquee.

[ChanceKJ]

Honestly (and this is coming from the guy who proposed magnets be a solution for this in a thread last year) I say screw it down. The likelihood you'll change your marquee is low, and magnets are feature creep/ overly technical.

Seriously, if Nintendo can screw their marquee brackets down in the Vs cabs, then I'm sure it's the best option for us building MAME boxes.

[otsep]

I actually meant to be saying the same thing Chance said, no bending required. But BorgDog has a good point too.

Tried attaching to the top of the panel and it works, but isn't terribly strong.

I'll have to cut a new piece and try screwing it to the bottom of the marquee box.  The t-nuts I've installed in the bottom are too far back to be of use now, so I'll have to put the screws directly in the MDF.

[otsep]

First of all, thank you!   

Everyone who replied gave common sense advice and wasn't a dick about it.  I really appreciate that.

The solution was right in front of me, but I was caught up in the "Did I just ---fudgesicle--- this all up" moment I didn't see it.

I ended up screwing the retainer to the bottom of the panel.


There is a slight gap, but I believe that's because of the screws I had on hand to test it out.

[otsep]

Finally had some free time available and knocked out a some little things.

Built the speaker frame out of square dowels.


Added the runners for the plexiglass bezel.


I'd like to order the plexi and wonder what seems to be the popular type. I'd like it to be transparent enough so the display can be seen easily, but not completely clear so I can see inside when it's off.  I've seen a bunch on non-US projects, but I'm trying to find something local-ish.

Here is one option, but I'm not in love.

[otsep]

Put a coat of paint on some of the parts today.    I rolled Zinsser primer and had Home Depot tint it as dark as possible.   It builds beautify and leaves a nice finish.  The Zinsser is around $18-$20 a gallon and I've barely used 1/4 of the can.


I'm really happy with this process and it's VERY inexpensive by comparison.