Slim NoName Multicade - Moving along

[otsep]

So this is my second attempt at a build and I feel like I'm in a much better place to get this done.

Before I get started, I wanted to recognized a few of the many awesome builds here that have inspired me:
edekoning's Magneto
Martijn's Slim Marvel vs Capcom
ChanceKJ's Flynn's Arcade
Knievel's Woody

Control Panel:
- 2 players with 6 buttons & recessed trackball.
- RGB LED Illuminated buttons
- Still on the fence about MAME admin buttons

PARTS LIST (So Far):
Acer 27" LED Display

Cabinet
Cabinet Wheel Assembly
Heavy Duty Leg Leveler

Controls:
UltraStik 360
UltraStik 360 Octagonal Restrictor Plates
UltraStik 360 Hard Spring
U-Trak USB
I-PAC ULTIMATE I/O
NovaGem2 Lightable Horizontal Pushbutton - CLEAR

Lighting
IL-lumination RGB 5VDC LED

Tools:
Dewalt 611 Router kit
RIDGID R4512 Table Saw
Rikon 14" Open Stand 1 HP Bandsaw
Freud 58-100 1/16-Inch 4-Wing Slot Cutter for 5/16 Router Arbor
Freud 60-120 5/16-Inch Slot Cutter Arbor w/Bearing 1-Inchstud height (1/4-Inch Shank)
Jasper 200J Model 200 Circle Cutting Jig for Plunge Router
Freud 75-102 1/4-Inch Double-Flute Up Spiral Router Bit

[otsep]

Here are is my most current SketchUp of the cab and a grid of my side panel.

[otsep]

Place holder.

[Frank Drebin]

Looks good.  32" monitor?

[otsep]

I'm using a 27" acer display.  I was worried about making to too narrow to accommodate a two player with trackball setup.  I looked for a layout plan for the control panel, but didn't find one that was close.

Here is what I came up with.

[jugger18]

Maybe think about moving the joystick/6 buttons up and the trackball down

[PL1]

Maybe think about moving the joystick/6 buttons up and the trackball down

+1

What 4 admin buttons do plan to have top-center?

I assume the two buttons above the P1/P2 player buttons are for coin and start.


Scott

[otsep]

Maybe think about moving the joystick/6 buttons up and the trackball down

[jugger18]

Definitely better.  You don't want an enthusiastic game of golden tee having a hand flying into your display

[otsep]

Maybe think about moving the joystick/6 buttons up and the trackball down

+1

What 4 admin buttons do plan to have top-center?

I assume the two buttons above the P1/P2 player buttons are for coin and start.


Scott

I planned on four, but can only think of two I know I need. Esc & Shift.  Thoughts?

[otsep]

Definitely better.  You don't want an enthusiastic game of golden tee having a hand flying into your display

Final version?

[PL1]

What 4 admin buttons do plan to have top-center?

I assume the two buttons above the P1/P2 player buttons are for coin and start.

I planned on four, but can only think of two I know I need. Esc & Shift.  Thoughts?

For the row of four the main ones that I'd recommend are Esc and Pause.

The only reason to have a shift button is to avoid having dedicated admin buttons. (See here in the wiki and numerous threads on shifted functions vs. dedicated admin buttons.)

One button to almost always avoid putting on the CP of a dedicated cab is the Tab (menu) button.

+10,000 if you have kids or any friends/family members that are not-so-tech-savvy -- after you spend months getting everything just right, they can make a mess in 5 minutes that takes you longer to clean up than the original setup, assuming you find all the changes. 

If you haven't done so yet, get your software -- FE and emulators -- installed and configured before you drill holes in your CP.

That will tell you what buttons you need to make your cab work the way you want it to work.

Check out the suggested design process here in the FAQ.


Scott

[otsep]

Thanks for the input Scott.

I've already built the computer, but I've been through a few different builds of HS, etc.  I think I might wipe it and start it fresh. the computer is lacking a dedicated video card, but it's otherwise fairly powerful.

[otsep]

I'll be plugging the computer back in tomorrow to give it a once over.  My next challenge will be identifying all the parts.

I have the computer, display & speakers.

I need to figure out the items below:
Lighted Push-buttons. (Chrome rim with red plunger or red rim with black plunger or ?)
Encoder
LED Controller (Wiz, etc)
Joysticks (Ultimarc? Lighted?)
Chamfers and metal screens for the vents (Magneto)
Relocating the controls off the sub (a task I'm apprehensive about)
Display bezel (Wood/plexi, smoked plexi, ?)
Cabinet finish (Laminate, paint, vinyl wrap, art)

Ya' know.. little stuff

[a1pharm]

Your sketchup looks pretty good. You are building a pretty similar cab to the one Martijn made.  I essentially copied Martijn w/ mine.  Looking at each build may answer most/all of your questions.  As for lighted buttons, I would not use Chromalite buttons again - they don't have a very nice "feel."  I would get the Electric Ice buttons from GGG if I were to do another CP.

 

[otsep]

Started cutting today. 

I used a circular say and jigsaw to get close to the pencil lines.  Once close, I used a template bit in my Dewalt DWP611 hand router.  It's a handy little router and did a great job considering I discovered an issue with my bit.

The bit is more worn than I thought and didn't produce the best finish. I'm thinking I'll grab some filler and sand it all smooth.  In reality, the t-molding will cover it, but I'll know its there.

The next step is to cut the other side.

[otsep]

This filler is awesome!

http://www.homedepot.com/p/DAP-4-oz-White-Plastic-Wood-Solvent-Wood-Filler-21412/100493605

It has fibers and is perfect for MDF.  It dries hard like plastic, but finishes smooth.

[otsep]

Fixed my SketchUp and tweaked the CP.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/hmgoe54uh6m0j55/NoNameMAME.skp?dl=0

[EMDB]

Started cutting today. 

...

The next step is to cut the other side.

You know you can just "copy" the first side using a flush-copy bit?

[otsep]

Started cutting today. 

...

The next step is to cut the other side.

You know you can just "copy" the first side using a flush-copy bit?

Of course!  I'm new to cab builds, not woodworking.

I also used the my router to cut out parts of the first piece since my jigsaw isn't terribly good.

[otsep]

The weather isn't cooperating, so I ordered some parts today:

- I-PAC ULTIMATE I/O
- A sampling of buttons
- IL-lumination RGB 5VDC LED

I hope to figure out which button setup I like and go from there.

[johnrt]

The weather isn't cooperating, so I ordered some parts today:

You live in Orlando, FL, right? I'm in Norway and today I cut my side panels outside in 0.8 degrees celsius. (that's about 34 degrees Fahrenheit). 

[otsep]

The weather isn't cooperating, so I ordered some parts today:

You live in Orlando, FL, right? I'm in Norway and today I cut my side panels outside in 0.8 degrees celsius. (that's about 34 degrees Fahrenheit). 

It was in the 50s here, but the 20mph winds with 35mph gusts kept me from working outside.

[otsep]

Should be heading to Home Depot today to pickup the base and baton material today.  If all goes well, I should have some kind of shape today.

[otsep]

Some CP parts arrived today. 

[otsep]

Finally finished the second side.

[otsep]

Also got the base squared away.

Glued and screwed the panel to 2x2 strips.



I really love working with the Woodpecker measuring tools.  They're a little more expensive, but super accurate.

Tomorrow I plan on mounting the wheels and feet.

[otsep]

I took some time today to finish the base of the cab.  It's similar to some others on here, except I boxed my wheels and did not compromise the 2x2 framing.

Using left over 2x4 I cut out the box pieces on the bandsaw.  Once I figured out how I was going to do it, the cutting moved along quickly.


I ended up notching the two side pieces because I didn't want to compromise the 2x2 I used for the frame.


I then glued & screwed the pieces together and attached them to the 2x2 framing and screwed through the base down.

Additionally, I cut a 1/2" hardwood board I had and used it for the leg bases.  This was glued and screwed from the underside as well as the top.

Here is a view of everything in place.


I'm contemplating adding some additional framing to the sides but I'm not sure if that is overkill.

Thoughts?

[EMDB]

I got a Déjà vu while reading your last update 

[otsep]

I got a Déjà vu while reading your last update 

Lol. Well it's similar to your build as well. There are so many on here, I haven't read them all. No disrespect.

[yotsuya]

EMDB never misses an opportunity to post photos of his own builds - especially in other people's threads. 

[EMDB]

EMDB never misses an opportunity to post photos of his own builds - especially in other people's threads. 

I got a Déjà vu while reading your same old boring comment 

[yotsuya]

EMDB never misses an opportunity to post photos of his own builds - especially in other people's threads. 

I got a Déjà vu while reading your same old boring comment 

That just goes to show you how often you do it. 

[otsep]

I edited the post. 

[yotsuya]

Threadcrapping aside, you don't need to add any bracing. You have a good base there.

[otsep]

Threadcrapping aside, you don't need to add any bracing. You have a good base there.

Thanks for the feedback. 
No more bracing it is.

[otsep]

Heading to Cupertino for the week so I won't be able to get anything done until next weekend at the earliest.

[otsep]

Made a little bit of progress today.

Finally got around to cutting the slot for the t-moulding (no pic) and building the support structure.  I definitely went a little overboard, but that's alright.

I screwed a piece of hardwood to my miter saw fence to facilitate cutting identical lengths for the batons.  A clamp to holding a simple stop block in place allowed me to make sure all the same size parts were true.


After getting all the pieces cut, I started assembling the frame.


First side complete and now on to the next.


This isn't moving terribly fast, but it's getting done nonetheless.

[ChanceKJ]

I got a Déjà vu while reading your last update 

I had some too.

Great job so far. I'm gonna follow this build for sure.

[otsep]

It's raining down here in the sunshine state  so I had to work in the garage.

On a positive note, I was able to finish the second side.



The next thing I need to figure out is the screen placement. 

Any advice from those who've been down this road?

[ChanceKJ]

Make sure it's level?

But seriously. I got kinda lucky that mine turned out like it did. I basically did the measurements on the fly between both side panels, yet everything turned out square. take your time, measure, and use the display itself as a reference.

[otsep]

Make sure it's level?

But seriously. I got kinda lucky that mine turned out like it did. I basically did the measurements on the fly between both side panels, yet everything turned out square. take your time, measure, and use the display itself as a reference.

I'm torn between centering it vertically or moving it to the upper half a bit.

[yamatetsu]

Just make a mockup. Stand the sides of the cab up at the distance of the cab's width.
Place yourself in front of the 'cab', hold the monitor at the height/angle that is most comfortable for you, mark the position on the cab's sides.
Placing the monitor onto something, a pile of books, whatever, does help.

Note that standing in front of the cab and sitting in front of it makes a difference on the viewing angle, i.e. you'll get a perfect viewing angle standing at the cost of a not so good one sitting, and vice versa.
Just experiment until you find your best placement, there's no general rule for placing the monitor.

It will of course look best if it sits squarely between the sides, but if that means that you don't get the best viewing position, I wouldn't do it. In the long run, it will be no fun to have a cab that looks terrific but gives you neck cramps after playing five minutes.

And finally, before doing anything permanent, just post what you are going to do and see what the folks here have to say about it, they will point out any gross mistakes 

[otsep]

Note that standing in front of the cab and sitting in front of it makes a difference on the viewing angle, i.e. you'll get a perfect viewing angle standing at the cost of a not so good one sitting, and vice versa.

This sounds like and engineering challenge.  Hmmm...  A motorized adjustable mount? 

[yamatetsu]

Nah, the difference between standing and sitting isn't that big. Just figure out if you will be sitting or standing while playing, position the monitor accordingly and you're golden. You are of course free to overengineer it 

[otsep]

I had a fairly productive day today..

I was able to get the base, sides and a couple of other pieces together and it's upright! 

Angle


Deck blank for comparison.


Approximate placement of the display.


I'm pleased with how it's turned out so far.

[otsep]

Yikes! In a rush to finish, I made a miscalculation with the marquee measurements!   

Fortunately, I noticed it and was able to correct it last night.
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[otsep]

So I thinking about the audio system and was looking for feedback.  Should I just run with a PC audio solution and then hack the controls or run with a automotive-like setup?

[yotsuya]

So I thinking about the audio system and was looking for feedback.  Should I just run with a PC audio solution and then hack the controls or run with a automotive-like setup?

PC audio is fine unless you're one of those guys who think this would also make a good jukebox.

[a1pharm]

PC audio FTW.

I have Logitech Z313 Speaker System in my cab ($35).  They put out great sound.  Has a wired remote that makes hacking the volume controls very easy.

I have Logitech Z623 Speaker System attached to my desktop ($120).  They put out the best sound you can probably every hope for in a cab.  The issue with these would be hacking the volume and bass controls.  It can be done, but you should be fairly confident in your wiring skills before taking this on.  These are THX certified in case you care about that sort of thing.

If I were to redo my cab today, I'd use the Z623 system.

[otsep]

PC audio FTW.

I have Logitech Z313 Speaker System in my cab ($35).  They put out great sound.  Has a wired remote that makes hacking the volume controls very easy.

Did you de-case the speakers?

[a1pharm]

PC audio FTW.

I have Logitech Z313 Speaker System in my cab ($35).  They put out great sound.  Has a wired remote that makes hacking the volume controls very easy.

Did you de-case the speakers?

Nope.  Decasing low wattage speakers is kind of a waste (as long as your speaker grill/opening is larger than the speaker itself...) in my opinion.

[ChanceKJ]

PC audio FTW.
I have Logitech Z313 Speaker System in my cab ($35).  They put out great sound.  Has a wired remote that makes hacking the volume controls very easy.

Did you de-case the speakers?

Nope.  Decasing low wattage speakers is kind of a waste (as long as your speaker grill/opening is larger than the speaker itself...) in my opinion.

Agreed, There's really no need.

[otsep]

Ordered some speakers and I'll be ordering all the controls today.

Quick question..  Circular or Octagonal restrictor for the UltraStiks?

I was leaning more towards the octagonal, but I'd love to know what the experience has been out there.

[ChanceKJ]

Octagons.

Circular just reduce the throw. My biggest beef with the 360s are the lack of feedback for my hand eye coordination. I added microswitches to both of mine to give the same sensation and feel/sound of the "click" on my J-Sticks I have at P3/4.  I'm adding Octos next. Could add tougher springs to them as well, Neph swears by them.

[otsep]

Since the UltraStik shafts also work on the JLW, I wonder if you can use this on the UltraStik?

http://www.paradisearcadeshop.com/shafts/728-jlw-10mm-stainless-steel-hollow-joystick-shaft.html

[otsep]

Got an Ultimarc order today

Two 360's and a U-Trak

[otsep]

Been in single parent mode and haven't been able to to any more work on the cab, so I focused on the systems.

I added the hard springs to my U360s and spent the desk time rebuilding the computer from scratch with a fresh HyperSpin install.  Things have been moving along nicely and I hope to work on the cab this week coming.

[otsep]

I was able to get most of the emulators setup that I wanted to use. But could really use some help with Daphne.

OS: Windows 7 Professional 54-bit
FE: HyperSpin
Emulators:

• MAME 64 v0.158 (No Nag & High Score)
• Nintendo Entertainment System
• Nintendo Game Boy
• Nintendo Game Boy Color
• Nintendo Game Boy Advance
• Sega Genesis
• Sony PlayStation
• Super Nintendo Entertainment System

Missing:

• Daphne - This one has been giving me some trouble.
• Sega Dreamcast?
• Nintendo GameCube?

Misc:

• HyperLaunch
• Don's HyperSpin Tools
• LED BLinky
• Macrium Reflect Free

I'm a big fan of Macrium Reflect as a device imaging solution. Using a bootable USB drive, I can easily make full images of systems.  I currently have a base OS + updates and one from this morning with the current build including ROMs and media.  The end goal will be to have an bootable USB key that can completely reset the system in case something/someone goes nutty.

[tkersting]

Looking good

[otsep]

Looking good

Thanks!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[OnePunchRob]

I was able to get most of the emulators setup that I wanted to use. But could really use some help with Daphne.

What help do you need with Daphne?  I'm no expert, but I have managed to get Dragon's Lair 1&2 and Space Ace working fine.

[otsep]

What help do you need with Daphne?  I'm no expert, but I have managed to get Dragon's Lair 1&2 and Space Ace working fine.

Yes.  Yes I do.

[OnePunchRob]

What problem are you having with it exactly?

[otsep]

Got Daphne working except for Dragon's Lair doesn't always flash when it should.  I'm guessing my mpeg is a little messed up.

[otsep]

I'm back to building today.

My focus is all the remaining odds & ends, vent holes, speaker holes and control panel.

I found a great option for vent grilles @ Home Depot - 5 in. x 3 ft. Black Lock-on Gutter Guard

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Amerimax-Home-Products-5-in-x-3-ft-Black-Lock-on-Gutter-Guard-441-503/203649434?N=5yc1vZar5e

It's already coated black and easy to cut. 

 I'm hoping to have it all wrapped up today or tomorrow so I can start painting.

[otsep]

Banged out the vents and speaker holes this morning.


Put a small chamfer on the edge for a nicer transition.

[ChanceKJ]

  chamfer 

/AppleThings 

[Rick]

/AppleThings

Feh. Hardly.

[ChanceKJ]

To the general public, yeah probably. There's a massive spike in the Google Trends Sept 2013 when you search "Chamfer Edge". ...same month the iPhone 5 launched.

[otsep]

I need to tackle the marquee tomorrow.  When I was setting everything up I made a poor choice on some of the angles and speaker panel end too close to the front edge of the bottom of the marquee.    Sooo.... I think I'll leave a small gap and use magnets to secure the marquee holder in place.

Hopefully it will work or I'll end up just screwing in the bottom permanently and accessing the panel through the top. 

If anyone has any better options, I'll all ears.

[ChanceKJ]

Screws arnt permanent.  How often will you change the marquee? Honestly. Nintendo Cab marquee brackets were screwed down and ment to be changed periodically. .  Just screw it down. No big deal

[otsep]

Screws arnt permanent.  How often will you change the marquee? Honestly. Nintendo Cab marquee brackets were screwed down and ment to be changed periodically. .  Just screw it down. No big deal

Probably right.  I need to find the right screws and inserts for 1/2" MDF.  The only ones at the big box way too long.  I currently have some hanging ceiling tile braces I was going to use for the bezel.

[a1pharm]

I copied martijn and use T-nuts in all my top marquee rails

[yotsuya]

I copied martijn and use T-nuts in all my top marquee rails

Actually, 99% of the games BITD used T-Nuts. 

[otsep]

Been busy with work and the family so I haven't made much progress.  I was able to get the back panels finished,

[a1pharm]

Looking slick, you're getting close!

 

[otsep]

So... I messed up.  Somewhere along the line, I screwed up the area where the Speaker panel meets the marquee.   

Whether I measured incorrectly or built wrong, I'm not sure.   


My panel now buts up against the marquee and I cannot fasten is an intended. 
The batons are glued and screwed in place and will be a royal pain to remove.



The marquee holder is a Ceiling Tile Wall Molding, not not easily shaped beyond basic cutting.

I have some ideas, but I would really love some input/guidance.

• Cut holes in the top of the speaker panel to access the screws. (Ugly)
• Attach the lower marquee holder to the speaker panel. (Not sure how)
• Build a frame to hold the plexi and attach to the front of the leading edge of the marquee box. (somehow)
• Kill it with fire

As usual, any input/guidance the community would be able to provide would be greatly appreciated.

[ChanceKJ]

Kill it with fire.


This is good, screw down the Lowe marquee bracket from the top, inside of the marquee lighting area. Rest the marquee glas into it and screw down the top bracket from the top. The lower bracket can be fixed.

[bfauska]

Could you attach the retainer down to the speaker panel from above by screwing through the bottom part of the retainer into the speaker panel and then slide the marquee in from above and use the top retainer to hold it in? Does that make sense? I can't really sketch what I'm trying to describe because I'm on my cell phone.

[otsep]

This is good, screw down the Lowe marquee bracket from the top, inside of the marquee lighting area. Rest the marquee glas into it and screw down the top bracket from the top. The lower bracket can be fixed.

I think I get what you're saying, my only issue would be drilling through the metal without popping out through the speaker panel.

Luckily, the speaker panel is not yet attached, so I have that to work with.

[otsep]

Could you attach the retainer down to the speaker panel from above by screwing through the bottom part of the retainer into the speaker panel and then slide the marquee in from above and use the top retainer to hold it in? Does that make sense? I can't really sketch what I'm trying to describe because I'm on my cell phone.

Makes sense.  I would need to figure out how to bend and attach the metal to the panel as my angle on the speaker panel top is not correct.

[BorgDog]

Since your speaker panel is not attached, with the speaker panel out could you screw your retainer up through the bottom, then put the speaker panel on?  Just need to leave the right space to slide the marquee in.

[bfauska]

I actually meant to be saying the same thing Chance said, no bending required. But BorgDog has a good point too.

[yamatetsu]

I would try to use magnets. Instead of using a lower bracket, go for a flat metal strip. Insert some magnets into the front of the lower marquee board. This should hold the metal strip in place. Attach some magnets to the lower back of the marquee plexi. The idea is that the metal strip is held to the board and the magnets at the back of the plexi hold on to the strip.
Bondo the gap between speaker panel / marquee.

[ChanceKJ]

Honestly (and this is coming from the guy who proposed magnets be a solution for this in a thread last year) I say screw it down. The likelihood you'll change your marquee is low, and magnets are feature creep/ overly technical.

Seriously, if Nintendo can screw their marquee brackets down in the Vs cabs, then I'm sure it's the best option for us building MAME boxes.

[otsep]

I actually meant to be saying the same thing Chance said, no bending required. But BorgDog has a good point too.

Tried attaching to the top of the panel and it works, but isn't terribly strong.

I'll have to cut a new piece and try screwing it to the bottom of the marquee box.  The t-nuts I've installed in the bottom are too far back to be of use now, so I'll have to put the screws directly in the MDF.

[otsep]

First of all, thank you!   

Everyone who replied gave common sense advice and wasn't a dick about it.  I really appreciate that.

The solution was right in front of me, but I was caught up in the "Did I just ---fudgesicle--- this all up" moment I didn't see it.

I ended up screwing the retainer to the bottom of the panel.


There is a slight gap, but I believe that's because of the screws I had on hand to test it out.

[otsep]

Finally had some free time available and knocked out a some little things.

Built the speaker frame out of square dowels.


Added the runners for the plexiglass bezel.


I'd like to order the plexi and wonder what seems to be the popular type. I'd like it to be transparent enough so the display can be seen easily, but not completely clear so I can see inside when it's off.  I've seen a bunch on non-US projects, but I'm trying to find something local-ish.

Here is one option, but I'm not in love.

[otsep]

Put a coat of paint on some of the parts today.    I rolled Zinsser primer and had Home Depot tint it as dark as possible.   It builds beautify and leaves a nice finish.  The Zinsser is around $18-$20 a gallon and I've barely used 1/4 of the can.


I'm really happy with this process and it's VERY inexpensive by comparison.