Project Crossfire

[BadMojo12]

Now starting my fourth mame build:  Project Crossfire, a dedicated rotary cabinet.  I remember working as a go-fer at the carnival as a kid and walking home with $30 in my pocket--right into an arcade to discover Ikari Warriors; I spent every last dollar.  Then I played Heavy Barrel and I liked it even more (who doesn't love hearing:  "Heavyyyyyyy Barrel").  So I am adding to my loft a dedicated rotary cabinet with all of the mechanical rotary games.  I had tried to incorporate rotary into my main Mame cabinet but the Happ rotary joysticks were optical so they didn't feel the same.

Now I got a legit set of L-30s and an old multicade that I stripped down.  My plan is to use a Xin Mo interface with an Ultimarc Rotary interface that I connected (See post at http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,139921.msg1447760.html#msg1447760).  I usually use ipac2s with my cabinets but I thought I would try to use the $19 Xin Mo as a substitute (I am immediately missing the "shift" function so if anyone knows how to do that with the Xin Mo, or any other tips for using fewer buttons for more functions I am interested).

Here is the start of the build, I repainted the T-molding yellow to match the art (the yellow that I purchased didn't fit right so I reconditioned the existing); I also put a vinyl carbon fiber over the sides.  Here are some starting pics:

[BadMojo12]

.....why is there a VGA monitor in there you ask?  It did have an lcd monitor thrown in there by the previous owner for a 60 in 1 (the cabinet was actually a Carrier Airwing cab).  I thought the VGA would be easier for scanlines and the fit is pretty good (sticks out the back a bit).  Plus VGA meant no problems using an old HP Celeron someone gave me.  Here is the control panel overlay I put together (yes, using elements from the work of others), and a marquee, which is my original.  The skull cammo pattern actually came from my kid's pajamas, which I just slapped on the scanner and scanned at 300 dpi.

[yotsuya]

.....why is there a VGA monitor in there you ask?  It did have an lcd monitor thrown in there by the previous owner for a 60 in 1 (the cabinet was actually a Carrier Airwing cab).  I thought the VGA would be easier for scanlines and the fit is pretty good (sticks out the back a bit).  Plus VGA meant no problems using an old HP Celeron someone gave me.  Here is the control panel overlay I put together (yes, using elements from the work of others), and a marquee, which is my original.  The skull cammo pattern actually came from my kid's pajamas, which I just slapped on the scanner and scanned at 300 dpi.

Personally, I'd leave off the "Arcade Rotary" tagline because I think it'd look cleaner, but on the whole, I like it. I even like the fact that you put the multi-marquees on the front wrap around as opposed to the control panel, where the buttons would obscure them. 

[BadMojo12]

Finished CP; printed it at Kinko's on outdoor vinyl and then coated with contact paper for extra protection; $30; I might have considered sending of to Mamemarquees but sizing and resizing these things is a bear.

[Le Chuck]

I really like that CPO - ditto everything yot said.  Looking good!

[yotsuya]

That looks great!

[PL1]

Good stuff.   

The only possible oversight is for Ikari III, the one rotary game that uses 3 buttons per player.   


Scott

[BadMojo12]

Yeah, I thought about Ikari III but it is horizontal and, yes, it uses three buttons and I think it is the only one so I would be including that extra button just for I3.  I'll admit you are making me regret that decision slightly.

[PL1]

If it's any consolation, I've updated the wiki's rotary game list to warn people that Ikari III uses 3 buttons.   


Scott

[BadMojo12]

Ok, I've hit a mild road block.  I've wired the CP with my Xin Mo, figured out how to do multiple key inputs (e.g., fire 1 + P = exit) in Mame and working through making Mamewah gamepad friendly.

I am having the following issues.  First, the switches in the rotaries might be going bad.  As luck would have it, they are also unique, with only a ground and "on" connection.  "So just use cherries" you say?  Unfortunately these switches have a little cross piece that apparently allows for a broader contact point to activate the switch.  Any advice on how to clean a microswitch (or whether they should be cleaned?  Because I can't find a replacement).

Second:  While I am playing a game (with some difficulty given the switches) the joystick movement is affecting the rotary action.  For example, in Heavy Barrel, you can rotate as you move, but moving left or right will also point the gun in that direction, which then requires a correction and makes it difficult to "strafe" as you would in the original.  In Ikari, you cannot rotate while you move at all.  Any ideas?

Ryan

[PL1]

Not sure what the part number is for the LS-30 microswitches.   

Found a related pic on Kowal's site.



The lever arm can usually be transplanted to another switch if you have another microswitch that matches the mount-holes and actuation force.


Scott