2-player XBOX inspired Weecade inspired Bartop

[jammin0]

Ok, the plan is to do this by Christmas so that I can give it away as a gift.  It is a larger version of the weecade with a few of the lines changed around a little bit.  I want to use an xbox jewel on each side and light them up for some nice product endorsement.

I have the xbox setup and running vision 3 and also snagged an older 19" LCD TV from goodwill for $9.99 that I'm going to try and get running again.  Thought I would start a thread to force me to update and continue working.  Any thoughts on the initial rough sketchup?

[ron310]

I like it.
I have a modded xbox around here somewhere that i planned on doing something similar with.
The lighted side emblems is a nice touch.

[rablack97]

I just pulled off 4 xbox jewels if ya need em....

[jammin0]

I just pulled off 4 xbox jewels if ya need em....

Sweet, I might have to take you up on that.  I have 3 but if I botch it up I might need more.  I just ordered 5meters of RGB 5050 SMD led strip and The plan is to make the emblems clear but backlight them and have the marquee light the same color.  Kind of an homage to all the jewel mods of old.  The marquee won't be traditional either.  it will kind of look like the pedestal xbox build in my signature.

[rablack97]

LMK,

By the way What do you do to get that messy green stuff off the back?

[jammin0]

I just watched some guy on youtube do it and copied him. First I scraped/rubbed off the sticky tape and then I hit the backside with my orbital sander.  I want it diffused so I am using a low grit.  The silver writing is raised so it stays on nicely.

[pbj]

What's nice about those jewels is that you can really rough them up to get the green paint off, and then when you repaint it, it'll look great from the front.  I got it in my head to retheme an Xbox into a SEGA system (what can I say...) and made my jewel SEGA blue.  Looked great.

He ever get light guns working correctly on those emulators?

[jammin0]

He ever get light guns working correctly on those emulators?

Someone else could probably answer this better but my understanding is that a lot of games work.  It might just be a matter of putting them into Vision 3 and then testing them for what works.  Doesn't Sharpfork have a xbox gun cab going?

[rablack97]

Some games work with a crap load of pre-configuration, people still complain that its not accurate.  He didn't get alot of people to help testing so he kinda dropped the project as far as I know.

Vision 4 and CoinOps 6 are on the Horizon, though, no telling what kinda new stuff will surface.

[pbj]

That guy hasn't added one lick of functionality to the Xbox emulators that wasn't there before he started.  So no change there.

[jammin0]

Ok, first progress pics.  I. have been working on the sides.  I. need to get a chamfer bit for my router before I can properly set the emblems down in.  Used a round-over bit on all the edges as I don't plan on using t-molding.  Also picked up an 18.5" widescreen lcd TV so I don't have to deal with converting the component output.  Cost me only $40 used so I didn't think that was too bad.

[jammin0]

Got my chamfer bit so I could inlay the emblems a bit.  I. also got my RGB LEDs in the mail today.  Here's a quick test of what it will look like.  I need to diffuse the light a little better.  I have used the plastic that comes in LCD screens before for something like this but I don't think I have any spare lcd screens right now to trash for parts.  any other ideas? 

[rablack97]

    

that is super yummy

[VoltaTom]

Got my chamfer bit so I could inlay the emblems a bit.  I. also got my RGB LEDs in the mail today.  Here's a quick test of what it will look like.  I need to diffuse the light a little better.  I have used the plastic that comes in LCD screens before for something like this but I don't think I have any spare lcd screens right now to trash for parts.  any other ideas? 

That looks amazing! Very cool!! 

Maybe white paper will diffuse the light? Either way that looks awesome!

[PL1]

I need to diffuse the light a little better.  I have used the plastic that comes in LCD screens before for something like this but I don't think I have any spare lcd screens right now to trash for parts.  any other ideas?

Use plastic from a milk jug for a ghetto diffuser -- not to be confused with Kevin's (maybe) band.   

If I ever start a band, I'm going to call it Ghetto Diffuser and our first album wil be named Rapid Arm-Flapping!
 

Scott

[jdbailey1206]

Got my chamfer bit so I could inlay the emblems a bit.  I. also got my RGB LEDs in the mail today.  Here's a quick test of what it will look like.  I need to diffuse the light a little better.  I have used the plastic that comes in LCD screens before for something like this but I don't think I have any spare lcd screens right now to trash for parts.  any other ideas? 

Looking online they don't make RGB diffused LED's.  The easiest way I can think is to sand your LED's with 400 grit sand paper.  That way you aren't destroying your insert and if you don't like the look you can just reorder LED's which cost next to nothing.

[rablack97]

Got my chamfer bit so I could inlay the emblems a bit.  I. also got my RGB LEDs in the mail today.  Here's a quick test of what it will look like.  I need to diffuse the light a little better.  I have used the plastic that comes in LCD screens before for something like this but I don't think I have any spare lcd screens right now to trash for parts.  any other ideas? 

Looking online they don't make RGB diffused LED's.  The easiest way I can think is to sand your LED's with 400 grit sand paper.  That way you aren't destroying your insert and if you don't like the look you can just reorder LED's which cost next to nothing.

Liar, Blaspemy.....................

If your talking about the leds with the clouded head, i got a whole batch of em.  I ordered off EBAY thinking they were clear, as this is how they were avdertised.  However, the seller had no idea what i was talking about so he just gave me half off, I have like a 100 or so.

Your more than welcome to however many you need....



Also I assume your using some kind of controller....get you one of these, and then just dim em a little bit.  These work with 5v leds as well.



 

[jdbailey1206]

Got my chamfer bit so I could inlay the emblems a bit.  I. also got my RGB LEDs in the mail today.  Here's a quick test of what it will look like.  I need to diffuse the light a little better.  I have used the plastic that comes in LCD screens before for something like this but I don't think I have any spare lcd screens right now to trash for parts.  any other ideas? 

Looking online they don't make RGB diffused LED's.  The easiest way I can think is to sand your LED's with 400 grit sand paper.  That way you aren't destroying your insert and if you don't like the look you can just reorder LED's which cost next to nothing.

Liar, Blaspemy.....................

And I would have gotten away with it to if not for you meddling kids...


Guess I should have done a better search.  Found some here.  Even if you don't want to reorder I would still take some 400 grit sand paper to the ones you have.

[rablack97]

Cmon JD, your not on it today....

The link you gave links to your photo........BOOOOOOOOOOO

[jdbailey1206]

Cmon JD, your not on it today....

The link you gave links to your photo........BOOOOOOOOOOO

Sorry rablack.  The link can be found here.   

[jammin0]

These are actually surface mount LEDs on a strip.  I don't think I will be able to sand them, as far as LEDs go, they have a pretty wide viewing angle.  The video makes it look a lot brighter than it actually is, I'm liking the overall brightness, just not the hot spots.  I think I might try the milk jug idea, that seems like it might actually work.

Thanks for all the ideas.

[pbj]

My 2 player Xbox project never makes it further than this stage... 

[Generic Eric]

got any pics of your control panel?  I have an xbox with coinops and I'm looking for an idea of what to put on there, the idea of 10 buttons per player is off putting. Thanks

[empardopo]

What control are you going to use in your project?
Greetings.

Enviado desde mi GT-N7100 usando Tapatalk 2

[rablack97]

Hopefully a KADE

http://emukade.com/

 

[jammin0]

Hopefully a KADE

http://emukade.com/

 

I was originally going to go with pad hacks with 6 buttons per player and several admin buttons.  However I have been talking with Sharpfork and might end up doing KADEs.  I'm excited, they look pretty sweet to work with.

[ark_ader]

That guy hasn't added one lick of functionality to the Xbox emulators that wasn't there before he started.  So no change there.

Well he has been using the MameDoX core and that hasn't changed.  Maybe he is writing conversion code to support them.  I tried CoinOPS 5 and the guns did not work on both EMS TopGun and the CRT guns by madcatz.

Personally I would just get an ITX board and make life a little bit easier.

[TheDude]

That's a very neat idea with the sides of the bartop !
Love it ! 

[jammin0]

That's a very neat idea with the sides of the bartop !
Love it ! 

Thanks, hopefully it turns out looking good. 

I made a little bit of progress with the batons and some of the marquee done.  I'm using plexiglass that has been sanded on both sides to diffuse the light better.  Then I set it into the front side of the marquee and glued it with some epoxy (for lack of a better idea.) When it is nice and dry I'll fill it and sand it really well.  I have a vinyl decal I'll stick right on the front and after the whole thing is painted black I'll remove the mask and hopefully have a nice crisp and clean marquee.  This is the same method I used on my xbox pedestal and I thought it turned out ok.

[cigardude]

What is the name of that LED controller? That would work great in a few projects that I am planning.

Got my chamfer bit so I could inlay the emblems a bit.  I. also got my RGB LEDs in the mail today.  Here's a quick test of what it will look like.  I need to diffuse the light a little better.  I have used the plastic that comes in LCD screens before for something like this but I don't think I have any spare lcd screens right now to trash for parts.  any other ideas? 

Looking online they don't make RGB diffused LED's.  The easiest way I can think is to sand your LED's with 400 grit sand paper.  That way you aren't destroying your insert and if you don't like the look you can just reorder LED's which cost next to nothing.

Liar, Blaspemy.....................

If your talking about the leds with the clouded head, i got a whole batch of em.  I ordered off EBAY thinking they were clear, as this is how they were avdertised.  However, the seller had no idea what i was talking about so he just gave me half off, I have like a 100 or so.

Your more than welcome to however many you need....



Also I assume your using some kind of controller....get you one of these, and then just dim em a little bit.  These work with 5v leds as well.



 

[jammin0]

Small progress on the shell.  I pushed out the original weecade design and changed a few of the lines it is amazing how much extra room it gave me inside.  This one is going to be a cinch compared to the fix it Felix I did prior.

[mike boss]

Cool project and I like the info on the LED's.
The way you are doing the cabinet sides is also super cool.
Wanna go home and look into these LED's.

[jammin0]

Cool project and I like the info on the LED's.
The way you are doing the cabinet sides is also super cool.
Wanna go home and look into these LED's.

Thanks for the encouragement.  I have mixed feelings because I am building it as a gift.  I have no need for it but I hope my brother enjoys it.

Are you referring to the LED strips I'm using or the other ones that rablack pointed out?  I'm using a controller like this.  It came with 5 meters of lights for about $13 or so.  I'm excited because I notice you can grab the controller for about $5 and I definitely will have lots left over for other projects.  Bought them on ebay from someone from the US.

[mike boss]

Cool project and I like the info on the LED's.
The way you are doing the cabinet sides is also super cool.
Wanna go home and look into these LED's.

Thanks for the encouragement.  I have mixed feelings because I am building it as a gift.  I have no need for it but I hope my brother enjoys it.

Are you referring to the LED strips I'm using or the other ones that rablack pointed out?  I'm using a controller like this.  It came with 5 meters of lights for about $13 or so.  I'm excited because I notice you can grab the controller for about $5 and I definitely will have lots left over for other projects.  Bought them on ebay from someone from the US.

I'm talking about the single LED's.
The light strips you used are awesome, I went a lil over the top actually and ordered about $100 worth of strips, controllers, misc connections, etc. (With no real use for all). All I did was add one strip on top of my cabinet line up.............sorry to get off point.

The single LED's however I think could be cool to light up coin reject buttons, or overall smaller cabinet areas.

This forum (and thread) is a source of inspiration. I look forward to checking out how this develops.

[jammin0]

ooooohhh, colors

[rablack97]

Niiiiiiceeeee..........

[Zzap]

That looks great! are you manually changing or is it cycling through?

[jammin0]

That controller gives me a few options like, strobe, flash, cycle, and fade and then lets me change the frequency of all of those.  That is the fade setting turned all the way down in speed.

I'm looking at the proportion of light to dark now on the marquee after I've built it all up and I'm thinking that it would be a shame to not get more light out of my little window.  I'm thinking of masking off some lines to frame out the XBOX word.  What does anyone think?  Kind of like the picture here:

[Generic Eric]

That controller gives me a few options like, strobe, flash, cycle, and fade and then lets me change the frequency of all of those.  That is the fade setting turned all the way down in speed.

I'm looking at the proportion of light to dark now on the marquee after I've built it all up and I'm thinking that it would be a shame to not get more light out of my little window.  I'm thinking of masking off some lines to frame out the XBOX word.  What does anyone think?  Kind of like the picture here:

Neat. Do it.

[rablack97]

I like it.

Yeah those controllers are and awesome find, i've bought a few myself.

You have the remote option like jammin0 is using or you can get the mini, i eluded too in a prior post.  Its just 3 buttons and you cycle through the same effects as the remote option.  The remote just gives you direct access to each mode.  You can get these for about 1.50 on ebay.  Just search MINI LED CONTROLLER.

Also, Jammin0, just in FYI, those controllers work with 5v as well not just 12v.

Also, i've crammed a few xboxes in bartops, so i'm interested in your technique and part placement.  If your softmodding and not doing a TSOP, i have some ideas for you to get rid of the flubber and the xbox intro sound.

I can also show you how to get your power button to stay lit while the machine is off, its a pretty cool touch. HMM, what would be cool is to have a power button that shifted colors like the marquee....

Awesome work man....

[jammin0]

I like it.

Yeah those controllers are and awesome find, i've bought a few myself.

You have the remote option like jammin0 is using or you can get the mini, i eluded too in a prior post.  Its just 3 buttons and you cycle through the same effects as the remote option.  The remote just gives you direct access to each mode.  You can get these for about 1.50 on ebay.  Just search MINI LED CONTROLLER.

Also, Jammin0, just in FYI, those controllers work with 5v as well not just 12v.

Also, i've crammed a few xboxes in bartops, so i'm interested in your technique and part placement.  If your softmodding and not doing a TSOP, i have some ideas for you to get rid of the flubber and the xbox intro sound.

I can also show you how to get your power button to stay lit while the machine is off, its a pretty cool touch. HMM, what would be cool is to have a power button that shifted colors like the marquee....

Awesome work man....

Cool, I might have to pick your brain when I'm getting to those last touches.  I actually don't mind the flubber since I'm doing the whole xbox theme.  I am going to need some help making some custom vision menus to get to XBMC and coinops.

woohoo, look what came in the mail.  Thanks for getting them to me so fast Kevin.

[sharpfork]

woohoo, look what came in the mail.  Thanks for getting them to me so fast Kevin.

I'm glad to see the DIY KADE miniArcades as a part of this cool project.  Let me know if you have any questions.
Start here: http://kadevice.com/how-to-assemble-a-diy-miniarcade/

[jammin0]

Just plugging away at it.  Got the shell bondoed, sanded, and primed.  Took a second today to work on the KADEs.  Let me just say that they are super slick.  Took me about 20 mins to build the 2 kits including the time it took to heat up the iron.  5 more minutes to install the software and flash them with the xbox firmware. 

Plugged them both in and they work just as advertised. For anyone on the fence about grabbing these, it is totally worth the extra couple of dollars over controller hacking.   Probably saved myself at least an hour, probably closer to 2 and not a single burned fingertip. 

[PL1]

Looks good so far.

Don't forget to clean off that excess flux -- Q-tips/old toothbrush/acid brush and isopropyl alcohol are your friends.   


Scott

[jammin0]

Looks good so far.

Don't forget to clean off that excess flux -- Q-tips/old toothbrush/acid brush and isopropyl alcohol are your friends.   


Scott

I had a question about that.  I was going to clean them but then I realized that I was out of isopropyl and haven't had a chance to get to the store.  I do have acetone free nail polish remover, and denatured alcohol, would either of those do the trick without leaving more residue?

[PL1]

I do have acetone free nail polish remover, and denatured alcohol, would either of those do the trick without leaving more residue?

Denatured alcohol will work fine.   


Scott

[jammin0]

Ok, here are my ideas for the control panel.  I'm going to try and squeeze in the original DVD drive, the original power and eject buttons without new and improved color changing ring on the eject button, and players 3 and 4 controller ports.

What about buttons, do you think I have enough?  I was going to put the two trigger buttons for P1 on the left and right side but I might not.  Anyone who has Vision setup have any opinions about all those buttons.  I have the controller ports if you absolutely have to play an xbox game or something that requires more buttons or joysticks.  I was thinking about the two buttons above the DVD drive as Shift and Coin.  Any thoughts about that?  I want to do the shift button so that it will push and stay engaged so that I can use the analog on the joysticks but I haven't really tried that on any of the games to see if I like it.

[jammin0]

I was just reading on the KADE forums that the shift button has a double click to lock feature.  Is this true?

[PL1]

That is correct for the firmwares with shifted functions. (MAME multi-mode uses HWB to change maps instead of shifting functions)

Accidently triggered the shift-lock several times while doing some beta testing and almost submitted a bug report to the team before sorting it out.     


Scott

[sharpfork]

What about buttons, do you think I have enough?

I lay my buttons out the same way and don't really add much more.  You might have to do a bit of remapping on some games.  You can do without the left and right trigger as far as I'm concerned.
I like to add an exit game button and map the shift of that button to the return to dash option.  Depending on your bios, this will let you back out of xBox games.  I also like to disable the back+start = exit in the KADE loader so kids adding credits and hitting player start while playing beat em ups don't accidentally back out of the game.  If you chose this option you have to add the exit game button.
I also reccomend you have two coin buttons, one for p1 and another for p2.

[jammin0]

What about buttons, do you think I have enough?

I lay my buttons out the same way and don't really add much more.  You might have to do a bit of remapping on some games.  You can do without the left and right trigger as far as I'm concerned.
I like to add an exit game button and map the shift of that button to the return to dash option.  Depending on your bios, this will let you back out of xBox games.  I also like to disable the back+start = exit in the KADE loader so kids adding credits and hitting player start while playing beat em ups don't accidentally back out of the game.  If you chose this option you have to add the exit game button.
I also reccomend you have two coin buttons, one for p1 and another for p2.

So as far as admin buttons . . .
I can get away with P1 start P2 Start P1 Coin P2 Coin Shift and Back?  I can always plug in a controller for any other admin things in case I need the analog stick click or anything else.

I know what you mean about the accidental Coin + Start buttons as I did that once myself on a game of bubble bobble at the final boss.  My bro and I had been playing for a good hour or so.  Is that mapping something that you can change in Coinops/Vision?  Or does the Kade prevent the combined press?

[sharpfork]

The lock out start + back as which requires a exit button that just sends back + start is a KADE fearure.
I think you have a good set of inputs for a 2 cab. 

[jammin0]

Staying alive.  Got some of the CP finished.  I still need to round down the front and route out a spot for the joysticks.

[rablack97]

What are the 4 buttons up to for?

Is that another in the center and 2 to the right as well?

Degenatrons pushed out a new update for the loader this weekend, you will need to grab that.  I pointed out a bug in the exit to dash, (wrong button combination)  so thats fixed now.

I also have a custom board, that allows you to autoconnect to the kade, without opening up the cab and pulling the kades out. You just plug into a USB port, Kade initializes, customize, program, unplug and done.  A cool feature you might think about adding...

I agree with Sharp though, 8 buttons is way too much, and with proper mapping you can nix the LR Triggers.

If your going with the shift button, make sure you wire up the external LED indicator.  You can install a seperate LED on the panel, or what i've done is get some clear IL button casings and solid color plunger.  Wired the led in the clear casing, so when the button is double clicked the casing lit up letting me know shift was enabled.

Also, Vision and Co5 standard are set up like so....

X  White Y
A  Black   B

This will give you the proper setup for all streetfighter type games

If you leave as is you will have to go into the CO5 or vision configs to match up what you have now....

Killer Instinct, set the config file under Udata to this for each player

2
5
3
0
4
1

you know what i'm talking about when you see it....

Not sure if your putting any fans in your build, but I'd be interested in how you get rid of the line noise that will show in your video.  It happens to all of my decased builds.  The only way i compeletely got rid of it was running the VGA to RGB video card off of a pc PSU, so it was getting clean power.

Also if your using a 1.1-1.3 xbox, when you decase you will notice 2 metal clips near the video input, that touch the metal case insert.  If you decase, and your video is scarambles, just solder 2 wires to those clips and solder the other end back to ground.  This was remedied in later xbox builds, but 1.1-1.3, the clips have to be grounded.

Also, peek through this thread, should give you some additional ideas....

http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,123039.0.html

[mike boss]

I'm liking this project.
I plan on doing an XBOX project myself, also using a KADE so this is really good.

[jammin0]

What are the 4 buttons up to for?

They are for Shift - Back - Coin 1 - Coin 2

Is that another in the center and 2 to the right as well?

The front center are original Eject and Power buttons.  And on the right side I will have P3 and P4 controller ports.

Degenatrons pushed out a new update for the loader this weekend, you will need to grab that.  I pointed out a bug in the exit to dash, (wrong button combination)  so thats fixed now.

Awesome, I'll have to get that.

I also have a custom board, that allows you to autoconnect to the kade, without opening up the cab and pulling the kades out. You just plug into a USB port, Kade initializes, customize, program, unplug and done.  A cool feature you might think about adding...

I already have a breakaway to usb connector that I used before the 360 controllers came out in order to use my controller on the PC.  I think I can pretty easily just pop off the cable from the xbox and reverse it back to USB for updating them one at a time.  I will still have to go through the inside but I can leave the CP intact and just go through the back.

If your going with the shift button, make sure you wire up the external LED indicator.  You can install a seperate LED on the panel, or what i've done is get some clear IL button casings and solid color plunger.  Wired the led in the clear casing, so when the button is double clicked the casing lit up letting me know shift was enabled.

Thanks for reminding me of that, I actually have some cool indicator lights that were originally for automotive purposes that I got when the local electronics parts store went out of business.  I totally forgot to incorporate that into the design but it will probably work fine just to the left of the left most top admin button.

Also, Vision and Co5 standard are set up like so....

X  White Y
A  Black   B

This will give you the proper setup for all streetfighter type games

I was actually just copying floriske.nl's layout but I guess I better get into the games and see what you're talking about.  Since it's a 2-player and 6 buttons I definitely want the fighters to work easily.  Does that mess up any of the other control schemes for Mame games or Consoles?  I better play around more on a controller before I commit.

Not sure if your putting any fans in your build, but I'd be interested in how you get rid of the line noise that will show in your video.  It happens to all of my decased builds.  The only way i compeletely got rid of it was running the VGA to RGB video card off of a pc PSU, so it was getting clean power.

I'm using straight component from the xbox as it is an LCD TV.  I'm hoping that I get a clean signal but I guess I'll have to wait and see.  I'm going to decase but I have tons of room so I will most likely just dremel off the sides and all the extra heatshielding to leave me with the console base and everything grounded in the same way it already is.  I'm going to run the original case fan as an intake and put another larger fan venting out at the top of the back access panel

Also, peek through this thread, should give you some additional ideas....

http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,123039.0.html

I've read the whole thread, wish I had that guys pro routing skills.  In fact, I'm almost embarrased to make an xbox bartop after his.  Pure genius.
[/quote]
Thanks a ton for all the pointers, I'm excited to see this come together, and sad that I'm giving it away  as a Christmas gift.

[rablack97]

The custom board takes all of the extra out of the equation.  It uses neutrik pass thrus, so all your doing is plugging into the USB port.  No unplugging the Kades, it uses relays to shut off the data and power from the xbox when the pc is plugged in, then when its unplugged it reverts back to the xbox.

In other words, plug in Laptop, program, unplug laptop and done.

Also, Vision and Co5 standard are set up like so....

X  White Y
A  Black   B

This will give you the proper setup for all streetfighter type games

I was actually just copying floriske.nl's layout but I guess I better get into the games and see what you're talking about.  Since it's a 2-player and 6 buttons I definitely want the fighters to work easily.  Does that mess up any of the other control schemes for Mame games or Consoles?  I better play around more on a controller before I commit.

No it doesnt mess up anything else, as you see A & B are still in tact, which is about it for most mame game.  Games like MK, you have to configure w/i mame to pick up the block as those were on the triggers.  The rest of the games work well with this setup.

Oh ok, your not using a monitor, so you should be cool all the way around.

Also, don't forget about the 3.3v standby, tap into that from the PSU to lite up your power and eject buttons prior to turning the system on...

[jammin0]

I made the mistake of glueing the control panel before finishing routing everything out.  It's been a pain but I've had to route with my dremel.  I hacked up the original power and eject button and am going to light with the same light strips I'm using everywhere else.  In order to get it properly lit I drilled a couple of holes through the power board PCB so that I could shine through to the diffuser.  Here's a quick video clip.

[rablack97]

 

[mike boss]

I like what your doing with this project and I'm inspired to tackle one myself..........SOON!
I have the XBOX, the RGB led strips, and the KADE's !

I like what you did with the marquee.
Question, when you sand it how does it look when painted after ?
Does the paint look nice and smooth ?
Would it not be better to only sand one side, then paint the other ?

[jammin0]

I like what your doing with this project and I'm inspired to tackle one myself..........SOON!
I have the XBOX, the RGB led strips, and the KADE's !

I like what you did with the marquee.
Question, when you sand it how does it look when painted after ?
Does the paint look nice and smooth ?
Would it not be better to only sand one side, then paint the other ?

I should have it all painted by this weekend and I'll try to take some pictures with a real camera.  I think I understand what you're getting at with the marquee but I sanded both sides since I needed the paint to stick to the plexiglass on the outside.  Mostly I am using this method in order to create a seamless look with the plexiglass and the wood.  Alternatively, you could make a more traditional marquee that was framed by the wood or retainers or whatever and then diffuse the backside, mask the backside, and paint only the backside.  Since I'm painting the whole front I have to sand the front.  Sanding the back becomes a moot point since you won't see it anyway and I prefer to diffuse it as much as possible.  I'm impressed with how well the plexiglass diffuses with sanding both sides and then positioning the LEDs a few inches back.  I went ahead and cut out some circles of plexiglass for the side emblems in order to create the same exact effect.

I have to be careful not to build up the paint as much on the marquee area or it will be hard to get the masking off, also, while I can sand all the rest of the cab through the paint process, you can't really sand the marquee using this method as it would screw with the mask as well.

I'm hoping to achieve the same results as with my pedestal build in my signature.  It should look something like this:

[jammin0]

So I'm trying to come up with some artwork to put into Vision for my menu screens and I'm having a rough time.  I tried grabbing some of the Hyperspin Genre pictures but they don't match up very well.  I like the Vision Genres so I'm trying to keep them similar.  The Menu Screens are these:

• Arcade Classics
• Action Games
• Console Classics
• Beat Em Ups
• Fight Club
• Racing
• N64
• Run N Gun
• Shoot 3d
• Shoot Em Ups
• SNES
• Sports Classics
• Mega Man
• Sega
• Zelda
• Xbox

Anyone have any great ideas on some simple menu screens?  Keep in mind I don't have the best artistic ability.  I was hoping to use previously created clipart and logos but I don't think it will flow or match very well.

[jammin0]

The bartop won't have a really distinct color scheme since it is mostly black with the lights being the only thing that give it some color.  To go with that theme I thought of rainbows.  I'm not really sure how this will look until I stick it into Vision and see it but here it is.  The overlay with the video preview in the middle and the menu titles should show up above.    I might try a few more ideas before I commit.

The other pictures are some alternate overlays.

[rablack97]

looks like your going psychadelic like the Vision Box.....

You may hit-up dreygor in the Coinops Forum, he's good with art,  He and I came up with this for his Xbox vision project.

http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,133965.msg1380687.html#msg1380687



You might see if drey will release his custom version of vision to you....looks like it would fit your build.

[jammin0]

That build of Vision looks pretty sweet.  I love the video title screens.  Your Vision Box is super awesome too by the way.  I'm starting to feel a little bit rushed in trying to finish this thing so I'll have to see what ideas get scrapped just in the interest of time but I think that I like this one enough that I'm going to have to build myself a second one.  Kudos on your awesome work.

[jammin0]

Tired of the flashy lights yet?  I'm pretty much done with the outside, now I just have to wire everything up and fill it.  I don't have the best way to pick up the colors without the camera overexposing.  That's what's up with the lamp half-way through.  I needed something to hold the LEDs around the emblem so I used some plastic dish things I got from the dollar store painted white and glued in place as a sort of light box on the sides.  I'll try and get more pictures later.

[jammin0]

Did something a little unconventional to get my joysticks mounted.  I didn't want to deal with screw holes so I recess mounted on the underside and then made some little wooden brackets tha pin it in place and glue down.  Not the most serviceable but I could always use a chisel if I need them out of there.

[emphatic]

You won't need to remove them to service them, so all is well.

[jammin0]

I'm about half of the way through wiring up the control panel.  The KADEs sure are making it a breeze.  The DVD drive was a bit of a pain to get looking nice but I'm happy wih it.  I can't help but think that it is a ton of work for something that will probably not be used that often.  Oh well, I don't think it will be a huge deal once all is said and done.  I even have a picture of the inside but don't judge me.  Everything is fitting and secure, even if it looks a little crazy inside.  I originally was going to mount the case fan to the bartop case to suck air in but stuck it on the CPU heatsink only to find that it kept the CPU a ton cooler.  I recommend a CPU fan to anyone doing an xbox build.  Temperatures went from around 50 Celsius under load to right around 40.  I also heatsinked the GPU which is helping a ton to keep things cool.  One case fan up top to suck air out and it seems perfect.  I'm hoping to finish by the end of the week if I can figure out where to spray paint my bezel in the cold and humid weather we've been having. 

. . .more to come

[EMDB]

Did something a little unconventional to get my joysticks mounted.  I didn't want to deal with screw holes so I recess mounted on the underside and then made some little wooden brackets tha pin it in place and glue down.  Not the most serviceable but I could always use a chisel if I need them out of there.

It's not that unconventional... I did the same but I used a removable metal bracket to fixate the sticks:

 

[pbj]

I just use a longer shaft and then mount from underneath using wood screws.  No need to route anything and the screws are plenty sturdy without having anything on the top of the CP.

[jammin0]

I just use a longer shaft and then mount from underneath using wood screws.  No need to route anything and the screws are plenty sturdy without having anything on the top of the CP.

I debated doing that and would have on a 3/4" panel but using only 1/2" MDF makes me leery of something tearing out.  Maybe I'm just paranoid but I'm pleased how it turned out.  Wasn't too much extra work anyway. 

[yotsuya]

I use carriage bolts from the top. 

[jammin0]

Pretty cramped but everything fits just barely on the control panel.  Having done mostly controller pad hacks I must say that the KADEs are a breeze.  shift and indicator light work just as advertised.

[sharpfork]

Looking good!  I'm glad our stuff is working for ya and a part of your project.

[jammin0]

Pretty much all the way done.  I need to fix a couple of things software wise but it's all wired up and working how it should.

[ark_ader]

Lovely job there.  Another fantastic Xbox project completed. 

Congrats! 

[jammin0]

So, I used the black and white middle buttons in my setup but now I'm running into the issue that the fighters are mapped correctly but most other games are not.  Can anyone point me towards some information for remapping the other games?  I would at least like to get N64, and NES setup to match my layout.  If there is a separate core for NEO GEO too that could be setup that would make things better too.  Anyone seen a guide for this?

**edit.   After playing around with it, the  process to change key maps for each game individually is easy enough so that's what I've decided to do.

[jammin0]

Lovely job there.  Another fantastic Xbox project completed. 

Congrats! 

Thanks for the encouragement. It has been an enjoyable build.

[BadMouth]

Pretty sweet.
Another solid build!
 

[jammin0]

Pretty sweet.
Another solid build!
 

Thanks BadMouth.   Maybe the next one will be my dream sit down racer.  Hopefully you're still around when I get to that point.

I came up with one small regret.  The KADEs shift function is awesome for N64 games because it can emulate analog controls.  I setup the shift to do that for Player1 when locked(double click on the shift button) but I don't have enough buttons for a player 2 shift button.  Oh well, most of the games on N64 that play well on the bartops small screen are probably more suited for 1 player anyway.  I'm loving the shift indicator light option as well and impressed that it ties right in with the rest of the KADE ground.

[mike boss]

I'll be going thru this thread for help and inspiration as I tackle an XBOX powered bartop project shortly. Like yourself I'm going with a KADE for the controlls.
Years ago I purchased 3 "altered" XBOX consoles on the cheap. They were running
LINUX. If I recall correct they were configured with LINUX as a school project.
(That is what the guy told me anyway)
They were cheap so I bought them! I  had the chips flashed and installed XBMC and new larger hard drives @ my local "console chop shop."
When I bought them the guy included an adapter with a USB connection on the end. I never had a use for it til now. But I know this will work and easily allow me to use the KADE.
I have an extra RGB VGA adapter that I'll use in connection with a PC monitor.
I just need to find (buy) an extra XBOX component cable.
The only thing I need to solve is the audio and adding an external power button.
I'm looking forward to this.

[rablack97]

I'll be going thru this thread for help and inspiration as I tackle an XBOX powered bartop project shortly. Like yourself I'm going with a KADE for the controlls.
Years ago I purchased 3 "altered" XBOX consoles on the cheap. They were running
LINUX. If I recall correct they were configured with LINUX as a school project.
(That is what the guy told me anyway)
They were cheap so I bought them! I  had the chips flashed and installed XBMC and new larger hard drives @ my local "console chop shop."
When I bought them the guy included an adapter with a USB connection on the end. I never had a use for it til now. But I know this will work and easily allow me to use the KADE.
I have an extra RGB VGA adapter that I'll use in connection with a PC monitor.
I just need to find (buy) an extra XBOX component cable.
The only thing I need to solve is the audio and adding an external power button.
I'm looking forward to this.

Audio is easy just use a small kinter amp..

THE HD rgb cables for xbox have 2 rca cables for audio, plug these into the amp, and speaker wires to the speakers.  It runs off the xbox 12v.



These covers are really nice and cheap for 3" speakers.  Get them at 8-line supply.



The external power is easy to. Just wire a pushbutton to the power board.  There are 4 solder points on the back of the xboxes power switchboard.  Just solder to the 2 right points.  Shown at 8:25 in the video.




Just follow degenetrons tutorials, you'll see them on youtube. all of your questions will get answered.

If you want your power button to be lit up before you even turn the unit on, i can show you how to do that in case you want to add that feature too.

Jammin0's rig is off the chain, I love it, i've built a few xbox powered bartops as well, they are fun.

Good luck

[mike boss]

Thank you for the info & links.
I figure why not use an XBOX since I have six.
A couple out and connected (but never played) and 3 or so tucked away and covered in dust. I think my inventory of parts make an XBOX bartop a wise choice. Might need a few odds & ends (I will PM you with info)..... thank you

[mike boss]

Thanks again guys. Home sick today with a brutal stomach bug.
I found my RGB to VGA board (sweet!) and my XBOX to USB (sweet!)....now just need to dig out my KADE encoders. I found the HD wire on eBay and I can order the amp from eBay also (all on the cheap).

So again I think you for the steer in this direction.

Awesome thread, awesome project, awesome source of inspiration.

[jammin0]

I still have 4 xboxes in my closet that I have yet to come up with a use for.  I kind of went overboard when I figured out how to softmod, probably good because with the learning curve I probably don't really know how to do it any more and it has only been 6 months or so.  Make sure to come back and post when you start a thread on your build so I can follow it.