This is Ground Control

[rablack97]

hammered paint.....

This was redone by Maximus for his missle command

http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,137008.0.html

[PL1]

hammered paint.....

This was redone by Maximus for his missle command

Was it hammered or textured?

Time for paint, I'm a huge fan of this Textured Black

Scott

[mcseforsale]

Hammered's different.  And Maximus wouldn't be caught dead playing any of my cabs.   Problem with Hammered is it's not *quite* black, which is a shame:



A bit more "texture".  It's basically a bunch of orange-peel:





AJ

[gabrielmtl]

Thanks for the input, highly appreciated.

So to be clear, the pictures above are with the hammered paint, right?

Is priming recommended?

[mcseforsale]

The hammered are in my last post.  The other one is the Textured black. 

As for the metal, that coin door had to be fully restored since it was rotted and fully rusty.  So, a quick paint removal session with Rustoleum Aircraft Stripper and a lot of work with repairing using metal epoxy.  Once it was usable again, I used an automotive etching primer, then the hammered black.

It used to look like this:





Make sure if you're doing a coin door repair that you use a copper-based anti-seize on the threads of the screws when you put it back together, too.

AJ

Thanks for the input, highly appreciated.

So to be clear, the pictures above are with the hammered paint, right?

Is priming recommended?

[mcseforsale]

Oh and if you're going to do a restore, I found that the new coin door takeoffs that end up on flebay are quite useful.  This is the donor coindoor without frame that I scored off ebay for cheap with coin mechs.  A lot of these are being replaced with dollar acceptors:



I think I gave 12 bux for it plus shipping.  And, all of the mechanicals fit in the VERY old Happ over/under that I got for 5 bux plus shipping.  All the stuff bolted right up.  So, for about 30 bux, I had a VERY nice old school over/under with brand new coin mechs and plastic bits.

AJ

[gabrielmtl]

I am undecided between LED buttons and Goldleaf buttons from Ultimarc. To LED or not to LED, I can't seem to be able to decide.

I love the old school look of standard buttons, but LEDs are funkier and I like the idea of having the right buttons light up for the game being played.

Anybody ever regret LED buttons? Would you all buy LED buttons if they were the same price as standard ones? Perhaps there is a technical aspect I am overlooking that would push me toward one option..

[mcseforsale]

The only thing I regret about my GGG EI2 buttons is the light feel of them vs. standard microswitch buttons such as Happ.  Everyone loves the look (as do I) but they don't feel as solid as standard buttons.

AJ

[gabrielmtl]

The only thing I regret about my GGG EI2 buttons is the light feel of them vs. standard microswitch buttons such as Happ.  Everyone loves the look (as do I) but they don't feel as solid as standard buttons.

AJ

Thanks for the input.

I can't seem to find anything wrong with Golden Leaf buttons.. I bet I'm wrong

[mgb]

This cabinet progress is looking really nice.
To me, I think the EI2s feel fine. I found that the micro switches had a little play so I hit them with dabs of hot glue to keep them from wiggling at all.
I'm very happy with them.

[Ben1981]

i use the old concave EI2s with leaf switches and i like them a lot! Only thing that's really important is that you have to strain the spring a bit to increase tension. Without that little modification my buttons were too loose and noisy.

Has anybody used the new Helio9 LED system from GGG? Looks promising, maybe just the right thing for this awesome build! 
http://groovygamegear.com/webstore/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=83&products_id=405

cheers,
Ben

[gabrielmtl]

Well, I'm stuck trying to take a decision, for the 100th time with this build :-)

I prefer the classic look of none-LED buttons, but having the right buttons light for the game is also very nice.

I take my decision before my coffee tomorrow.

/vent

[gabrielmtl]

I FINALLY just ordered all of the CP parts. I had to share.

I went with Goldleaf, U360s with longer shaft and stronger spring, 4-8 restrictors, U-Trak and some other goodies.

Standard buttons feel "right" for my cabinet design, IMO.

Thank you all for the input.

[gabrielmtl]

Hi all,

Can someone point me to a thread explaining how to connect my coin door lights to my PC power supply? I can't seem to find the proper info.

[PL1]

On a computer PSU molex, the yellow wire is 12v, the red is 5v, and the two black wires are ground.



For 12v bulbs, connect the yellow and black to the wires leading to the bulb sockets, wired in parallel.

12v -----|------|
           bulb    bulb
Gnd -----|------|


Scott

[gabrielmtl]

Thanks a lot, PL1.

Perhaps you can help me with something else. I haven't researched this on the forum so I'm being lazy, but is there a way to activate the old coin counter when I'll connect the coin acceptance trigger to the IPAC? I'd love to continue the count on it 

[PL1]

Interfacing the coin counter sounds like a good topic for you to research.
Remember that 12v + IPac =/= win unless there is a zener diode involved.

I haven't researched this on the forum so I'm being lazy

I appreciate the honesty and don't want to be the one responsible for keeping you from enjoying both the process of discovery and the understanding of the bigger picture that one can achieve doing research on a topic like this.   


Scott

[gabrielmtl]

Interfacing the coin counter sounds like a good topic for you to research.
Remember that 12v + IPac =/= win unless there is a zener diode involved.

I appreciate the honesty and don't want to be the one responsible for keeping you from enjoying both the process of discovery and the understanding of the bigger picture that one can achieve doing research on a topic like this.   


Scott

Yeah, you're absolutely right. Anything electrical should be understood, not just copied, IMO. I'll get on it 

[jimfath]

Ben1981, how did you tweak the spring? My EI2's are rather noisy.

[gabrielmtl]

A bit of a dilemma planning my CP layout.

I don't know if I'll be able to fit the TB, which I only decided to add recently. I only have 24" wide to work with.

The only solution I can see is moving both sets of stick/buttons closer to the edge of the CP. It might look silly.

Am I missing something? Anybody else ever managed 2 sticks/8 button each with TB on a 24" CP?

[mcseforsale]

You might be able to fit a 2 1/4". 

AJ

[gabrielmtl]

I probably just won't include a TB for this cab, which was my original plan. I'll have it for the next one.

That's too bad, it looked great with a LED 

[gabrielmtl]

I've been unable to work on much for a couple of days, because of this little girl :

[yotsuya]

Cute cute!

[Dawgz Rule]

Awesome pic....and Dawgz would know!

[gabrielmtl]

Awesome pic....and Dawgz would know!

Man... it's pretty much like having a baby around. Next update will have to be closer to February 10th. Will be a big one I hope.

[yamatetsu]

A bit of a dilemma planning my CP layout.

I don't know if I'll be able to fit the TB, which I only decided to add recently. I only have 24" wide to work with.

The only solution I can see is moving both sets of stick/buttons closer to the edge of the CP. It might look silly.

Am I missing something? Anybody else ever managed 2 sticks/8 button each with TB on a 24" CP?

Hi !

I'm currently building my first cab. The dimensions of the CP are 60 cm x 30 cm, which is approx. 23.6" x 11.8". I'm using just 6 buttons, but eight should fit too. Basically my layout is like yours, but I moved the joysticks & buttons a little higher.

I took a piece of sturdy cardboard and drew a rectangle the size of the CP on it. Then I cut pieces of cardboard representing the buttons, joysticks and the trackball and moved them around in the rectangle until I thought I had a working layout.
After that I marked the positions and cut out the holes. Then I put the buttons and everything else in. No problems. A thing you have to remember is that the microswitches and the wires take up more space than you see on your plan.

Hope that helped (and was not too late) ...

[gabrielmtl]

Thanks for the input, yamatetsu.

My problem isn't with the placement itself, I know where I would like to place all the elements. Problem is, it's not possible considering the space I have.

No TB for this build

[mcseforsale]

Why not try a 2 1/4" trackball?

AJ

[gabrielmtl]

I would have to reorder one. Not sure about it yet.

Do you guys find the 2 14" adequate? never used one myself.

[yamatetsu]

I think that with a little juggling around you could find the space for the TB. Here is what I have come up with :




Edit : From the look of it, I have the same TB as yours, so that *should* fit. Will find out for sure when I build my CP.

[yotsuya]

I built pretty much the same panel, but only went 6 buttons each. They fit.

[eds1275]

A bit of a dilemma planning my CP layout.

I would recommend nudging your layouts a bit to each side so you can get your parts to fit, and pulling your trackball as close as possible to the front edge. Looks like you could drop it another 3/4" or so. That extra room to follow through is neccesary for some people. And I think once the t-molding is in place it will be comfortable for player 1 to rest the side of their hand on the edge of the cabinet.

[gabrielmtl]

Good point about the t-molding.

I'll be back home Saturday and will experiment some more. I definitely want the joysticks and buttons to be aligned with each other, perhaps I can live with the TB being lower.

The beach here is fine and all.. but I'd sometimes rather be home and working on the cab. Am I normal?

[eds1275]

I personally can't sit still. Vacations where I get to relax drive me bonkers.

[mcseforsale]

Can't stand the beach.  I get to chase the kids around while wifey lays in the sun.  I can't lay down or sit for that long.  Pisses off my next door neighbor as he can't ever get me to sit in his house.

AJ

[gabrielmtl]

Hi guys,

I think I finally finished my CP layout. I was going to remove the track ball, but since I'm way too stubborn for that so I tried my best to include it in the layout. It will be a bit of a pain to install, but I wan't that glowing TB!

The width is 23 7/8". I will have to pierce new holes in the right joystick plate to achieve the 45 degree angle, which allows me to fit the TB. Unfortunately, the ball is not centred on the CP, but that just isn't possible.

The grey gradient close to the bottom is the rounded part where the two CP pieces meet (bottom part is vertical).

I don't have much experience with TB games, do you think the positioning of the ball is adequate?

Is 7" sufficient between the center of the last button of the first player and the second player joystick? I can always move the first player set to the left a little, but I don't want it to be too close to the t-molding, and/or move the second player set to the right.

I'd would sincerely love some feedback. Cheers!

[gabrielmtl]

I forgot to mention, the two buttons on the top left will be Pause and Exit. The two buttons on the vertical/bottom part will be 1P and 2P coin up.

[yamatetsu]

Hi,

the trackball should be placed as close to the bottom of the control panel as possible, as shown in my and eds1275's pictures. If you place it close to the top, chances are good that someone who plays 'wildly' will smash his hand into the monitor glass.
There is a golf game named 'Golden Tee' where you have to move your hand as fast as possible from 'down' to 'up' on the trackball, imagine doing that when there is a panel of glass at the end of the way ...

There is a Hall of Fame of cabinets in this forum, if you look at those, you'll see that the trackball is always mounted at the bottom of the CP.
http://wiki.arcadecontrols.com/wiki/Hall_of_Fame

So, if you're a 'gentle' player who only does controlled movement on the TB your layout will work, but it would probably better to move the trackball down and the buttons/joysticks up.

[PL1]

To achieve the repositioning suggested by Yamatetsu, try this:

Turn the trackball housing 90 degrees CCW so the side of the trackball housing that is toward the upper left side of the joystick is toward the lower left side of the joystick.

Swap the two X-axis data wires for the two Y-axis data wires. (usually yellow+green and blue+purple IIRC)

If the motion is backward on an axis, swap the two data wires for that axis.


Scott