Portable Lightweight Vertical/Horizontal Arcade [Update]

[rmikes213]

Here are the goals: lightweight, portable, and able to use in both horizontal and vertical fashion. Rip apart Check out my plans.









The purple in the back behind the screen is the broken down laptop. I have the bottom of the case still attached so I can utilize the battery. There will be a spot to the plug in the power adapter in the back as well. The screen is completely broken down, and will be placed on the 2 wooden planks that run across the frame. I will most likely hot glue the screen to them.

The front face of the frame will be 1/8" plexiglass. I don't plan on painting on a bezel; I like the see-through look of this! IDK, well see.

The extra inch of space at the bottom (when vertical) or side (when horizontal) is space for to secure a USB hub/audio jacks for the controllers to hook into.

As for the frame around the outside of it - I wanted to use a little as I could get away with. 1) For weight. 2) For airflow.

I haven't designed the controllers yet, but they will have a joystick, 6 action buttons, 2 pinball buttons along with a coin in, start, and config button. They will connect via a USB cable to the screen. This way the controllers can be unplugged and stored along with the screen, or somewhere else, improving portability/storage. Right now, the plan is to have the wire from the controllers have USB AND a headphone jack which will allow me to put the speakers on the controllers. That's the plan right now at least.

The screen is able to be stood up and propped up with the folding panels on the back. If you look at the pictures you can see that the horizontal panel is attached to the vertical one. The vertical one just folds out to stand up the screen (with the horizontal one just going along with it). When standing the screen up horizontally, just the horizontal panel folds out and the vertical one will be held in place most likely with Velcro. I am debating using hinges, but might just go with a Velcro system I used on a custom Motorola Xoom case I built. I will also staple in some cloth/string/twine/etc. at the base of each panel so that it only extends how far I want it to.

Let me know what you guys think, and any suggestions you may have! Thanks!

[severdhed]

looks like an interesting project, i'm curious to see where you go with this.

[ppv]

This intrigues me! :rubchin:

[PL1]

It may be easier to make a picture frame style diagonal support.

With either design, add a wire loop or a turnbuckle where the blue line is to set/hold the angle with minimum stress on the hinge.



Scott

[rmikes213]

I thought about that. The only problem I see with this is the size of the support. For picture frames, it is small. The one in my design is larger to support all the weight. And I'll be attaching something similar to hold the angle; I think the turnbuckle is too large and clumsy for a design like this. I'd like to fold up nice and compact.

It's still something I can play with. I'll have time to try them both and see if the picture frame style works too.

[PL1]

A strap hinge should be plenty strong for either setup.

For lighter/thinner and still adjustable, how about a nylon strap with a tri-glide for adjusting the length or two double-sided velcro straps (P/N 90700) -- one on the support, one on the body?




Scott

[PL1]

You've probably already considered this, but the red line part won't provide support when in vertical configuration.

All the stress will be on the green circle area.


Scott

[Le Chuck]

Looks like an interesting idea, I'll follow.

[sabreerbasAlpha]

I absolutely love this concept..I shall be watching following this for sure. Such a different approach to anything I've seen in a while. Keep it coming..

[rmikes213]

Hey 1PL, I'm trying to understand what you are saying. Hopefully you are just seeing the picture wrong. The spot that will be getting all the stress is the green line. The red box is all one solid piece, and the horizontal panel on top of it will just be going along for the ride. When I want the horizontal piece to be out, the vertical panel will be stuck to the back of the case with Velcro so it doesn't go anywhere.

[yotsuya]

Is this a draft? I think it'd look nicer if you could figure out a way to round off the edges.

[rmikes213]

yotsuya: Yea, It's just mocked up in Google SketchUp. I can round off the edges of the face a little bit to make it look nicer, and of course all the edges will be nicely sanded round. Most of the time when I do things like this, I just like to get things down on paper so I know everything will fit and work. Then, when I actually make it, I'll take the time to smooth out the aesthetics and make it appealing. I figured since I was going to be sharing this on the forums I would put in the time to mock this up more visually so people can offer suggestions, just like that!

Thanks.

[PL1]

The red box is all one solid piece, and the horizontal panel on top of it will just be going along for the ride.

So the red area is a rectangle and the blue is another layer on top of it, right?

EDIT: Confirmed by support3 pic below -- no cutout for the blue area.

If the red+blue areas were a single layer with the red area shaped like a backward "C", the green circle area would be a potential weak spot because there will be no support along the upper edge of the blue area.


Scott

[a1pharm]

I like the idea of using speakers in the controllers, but instead of using USB for the controller, and 3.5mm for audio, have you thought about using USB speakers instead?

Put a USB hub in the controller box, attach the keyboard encoder and USB speaker(s) to the hub, then have that hub plug into the computer.

This way, you can have powered speakers (without using batteries or a separate power supply), and a local volume knob on the controllers.  Just a thought.

Check out Quizz_kid's build and website for unique controller solutions (and generally awesome builds), you might pick up a few novel ideas from him (I especially like his work with rare earth magnets).

This device you're building will be able to do horizontal and vertical games, and also function like a cocktail cab (if you leave it flat).

Not sure if you have thought about adding a TV tuner to this, but if you did, you could easily hide a flat, homemade antenna in that little box.

If you are looking for a nice, cheap, VERY small keyboard/touchpad combo, check out my bartop build for the links.

Not sure how set you are on your stand ideas, but take a look at some tablet stand cases (many are folios) which may work out for this build.  If you intend to use plexi instead of lexan, you had better get something to protect the plexi, because you WILL scratch it.  Perhaps a folio style would work well for this build.  Take a look at these folio cases to see what I'm talking about:

http://www.amazon.com/TOP%C2%AE-Removable-bluetooth-integrated-workstation/dp/B00CNBPKYK/ref=sr_1_71?ie=UTF8&qid=1378746692&sr=8-71&keywords=ipad+stand+case

http://www.amazon.com/Ctech-Degrees-Rotating-Leather-capability/dp/B005F47YDW/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1378746577&sr=8-2&keywords=ipad+stand+case

I'll be interested to see how this one goes,
Cheers!
 

[rmikes213]

Put a USB hub in the controller box, attach the keyboard encoder and USB speaker(s) to the hub, then have that hub plug into the computer.

That's genius.

This device you're building will be able to do horizontal and vertical games, and also function like a cocktail cab (if you leave it flat).

I cannot believe it didn't even thin of that! Probably because I originally designed this a single player arcade...

Not sure how set you are on your stand ideas, but take a look at some tablet stand cases (many are folios) which may work out for this build.  If you intend to use plexi instead of lexan, you had better get something to protect the plexi, because you WILL scratch it.  Perhaps a folio style would work well for this build.

This is what I did for my Xoom stand. Yea, this is a portfolio case, so the front face folds back and it a good stand for the Velcro to stick to. IDK about doing a cover for it, mainly because it'd be huge when folded back underneath. But that's something to consider. Might be a nice addition.

[a1pharm]

I have a Xoom, too.  Here's the case I use: notice that it doesn't fold all the way back:

http://www.amazon.com/Motorola-Protective-Portfolio-MOTOROLA-Packaging/dp/B004M8RWCK

I don't want to hijack the thread, but since you brought up your android tablet:

I've been thinking about using a cheap 10.1" tablet and hacking a blue tooth controller (http://www.amazon.com/Generic-Bluetooth-Controller-Wireless-Joystick/dp/B00AR9JEQU/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1378762833&sr=1-1&keywords=bluetooth+android+controller) and using an android front end for a super slim mame cab.  I know there are a few folks on this forum that are developing great front ends for android, which might just tip me over the edge and end up building one.

[rmikes213]

Alright, quick update on my plans. I am actually really stuck on the CP's. I'm not quite sure what I want I'm not quite sure how to do what I want. I want to keep the same see-through style, and I'd love to have a plexiglass/acrylic top which can see into the whole box. IDK how well the six button holes are going to hold up though. Well, here is the plan so far. The USB hub/encoder will be on the back wall along with the hole for the cable. The speakers WOULD go up front, but I'm not sure about them either... Okay, rip them apart!

[PL1]

If the red buttons are for pinball flippers, consider adding a Ball Launch/Plunger (Enter) button on the front and possibly Right/Left Nudge buttons.

On the main unit, on which side/orientation will the USB port be located?


Scott

[rmikes213]

I like the idea of more buttons. I definitely have the room. One extra button on each side towards the back for nudge/tilt. I could add one or two buttons on the front for plunger/misc. What I'm really concerned about is if people think the 1/8" plexiglass on top with have enough support to last. I'm not particularly violent when I play, but you can never be too sure what someone is going to do when they get into the heat of a game...

The USB hub on the main (screen) unit will be on the bottom right hand side when vertical, and on the right side near the bottom when horizontal. I want to try to keep everything around that pivot point so that things don't get all weird...

I guess what I'm looking for is:

a) Will the Plexi be strong enough? Or should I toss this idea.

b) One of my goals is lightweight/portable. Does anyone have any ideas/examples of nice designs that are lightweight/small but can still accommodate 6 buttons with some pinball buttons as well? The more I look at this design, I realize it is kinda large and clunky (although I like it!), but I think having the Plexi as the top/sides will decrease the weight of this thing.

Thanks!

[rmikes213]

Okay I got a little bit of work done this weekend. Some of it doesn't even count because I'm a complete block head and bought 1x3 instead of 1x2. Idiot.


Most of the essential tools.


Cutting the 1/4 MDF was a piece of cake, as well as this 1x3 (which should have been 1x2!)


Test fit! Looks great! You can start to see that I did get the wrong size wood.


Test fit with screen and plexiglass. As you can see, The frame is 1 inch too high, or else this would look really nice and slim. Good thing I didn't attach those blocks yet!

I also BUTCHERED the plexiglass edge. I went with the jigsaw rather than scoring just because the plexi was really thick (~1/4") so I thought I'd save some hassle and just cut it with a really fine jigsaw blade like I have done time and time and again. So I started cutting, it was going great, kept going... Got to the end and to my surprise nothing fell, nothing was cut!? The plastic was melting up as the blade went through, then cooling down in the crack and essentially gluing the two pieces back together. Figures! I clamped the bad boy down with a steel straight edge and scored a few time and bent the piece until it broke. It didn't break clean. At this point I had a hammer out trying to smash off the last couple pieces. So needless to say, it is not pretty at all. But I am planning to use a dremel and taper the edge off all around to make it look a little neater.

Other than butchering the plexiglass cut and buying/cutting/assembling the wrong size wood, I had a productive day! I even got to try out my brand new Hakko FX888D soldering iron and test out extending the power button on the laptop. Let me tell you something, this thing is awesome. I turned it on, and it started counting up from about 350 to 750. It took about 20 seconds; I thought it was just calibrating. NO! It was 750 degrees F in about 20 seconds... I used to switch on my Dad's old Weller and wait for about 5 minutes before I even attempted to see if it was hot yet. Definitely glad I got this...

I'm still debating redesigning the CP to be smaller... I have some time this week, and IDK if I'll get much done next weekend, so I might take another crack at it.

[rmikes213]

I'm back! Just got some free time and starting back up on this arcade. I got some new wood (the RIGHT size this time) and cut out all the pieces I need for the screen and one controller. I have the joystick and USB controller shipping in tomorrow for the second one, but I figured I'd get one working and move on from there...

I'm thinking about using just glue and nails this time, not screws. Anyone have any advise against this? I just figure this will be easier to put together and hide.


I'm also debating on painting it or not. It really is just going to serve the purpose of function, though I like the transparency brought on by the plexi-glass and open structure. I just don't wanna do all the work to prime the MDF since I hear it is a pain to work with. Maybe a stain for the non-MDF wood? IDK, any thoughts??

[leapinlew]

Play off the natural tones and add some other industrial elements. I think the unfinished wood matches the see through unfinished finished look but at least get some clear poly on the exposed wood. 

[rmikes213]

I got some work done on building the supports for the screen and control panel.

Here's the control panel kind of laid out.

And here is the size comparison between screen and control panel.


And I screwed up the screen plexi glass edge...

So I bought this dremel cutting tool.

So we'll see how this goes...!

[rablack97]

Dude, nooooooooooo.........

get yourself a maybe even hand router with a flush cut bit to make those cuts, dremel cuts suck....I've tried

[rmikes213]

Well I just tried to score and break the 3/8" plexi. I scored about 25 times and its nowhere near ready to be broken. I had used a jig saw with a fine toothed blade before for smaller thicknesses, but last time I used it on this it just melted the plastic and re-welded itself back together.. but this scoring isnt going to cut it (get it!?), so I might have to try the jig saw again and either vaccum or blow the debris off before it hardens.

Ill take a look at the forums here and see if I can find any other tips.

[leapinlew]

rablack97 is right...

If you've never used a flush trim bit to cut plexi - you're going to love it. If you have a router, order a flush trim bit but if you don't see if that Dremel has a flush trim bit.

[rmikes213]

The problem is I don't have a router (I know...), but maybe it's time for me to start putting together my tool collection! Cutting plexiglass is a pain, and if this really works like everyone says it does, I won't have any problem spending some money to get the job done right.

[rablack97]

Working with plexi 101........

A table saw with a fine tooth blade will work too. 

However the recommended approach is a router by all means, you will ruin enough pieces of plexi before you get it right.  By that time you could of bought a router.  A router is versatile and can be used throughout your build.  It provides cleaner cuts and the application is awesome.  If your strapped for cash, get a handheld router, if you know your gonna stick with small projects.  If not get a full size, for a little more, and your set for just about anything, get a plunge router if possible.

Look at whiteside router bits, they cut like butter.

Do not use a jigsaw man, plexi isnt meant to be sawed, you will think your starting good, and when the blade dulls it will snag the plexi and crack it.  Plus you dont have a true guide.

Trust me if your gonna use plexi get a router, when you see what it does, you will be building plexi arcades, its too cool,  good luck.

[Gatsu]

Reiterating what everyone else has said. Get a router for sure. They aren't ridiculous expensive for a decent one, and with a flush trim bit you can get edges that are just so darn pretty. It pushes through plexi like buttah!

[a1pharm]

Lowes will cut your plexi for free if you buy it at the store.