Heavy Victory Ikari Time Barrel Warrior Soldiers Road 'Cammo Edition'

[Maximus]

Griffin Maximus never saw a blank space he liked. 

It's true, "you could put a cup holder there"

[yotsuya]

I will lose all respect for you if you don't post a photo of yourself playing this cab while wearing one of these 80s bad boys:

[Maximus]

while doing this...

[Maximus]

Time to turn a bug into a feature.

I accidentally put the P1 and P2 start buttons too close to the fire/grenade buttons on the CP and it's been bugging me ever since. But then when I got my multi-jamma board I saw that it had a little toggle switch to flick between the two game boards and that got me thinking.

So what I'm going to do is move the P1 and P2 buttons up to where they should be and then build a little plate, probably clear acrylic with graphics underneath that will cover the two holes where the P1 and P2 buttons were. In the middle of the plate will be the switch to toggle between games with each game logo set either side.

Now of course you don't want to accidentally hit that switch when button mashing in game, so what better reason could you need to put in  a good old military style covered toggle like this one...


This should bring some nice themed hardware, graphics and function to the CP while covering up my little oopsie.

[Maximus]

Switch panel design.

[TopJimmyCooks]

You know I love your work, and I don't give a crap about originality, but you've made a hash of your NOS CP overlay.   It's such a cool game cab, It rates reprinting the cp overlay with the switch logos and the right hole locations. 

Choose carefully on the switch covers.  Every one I've seen moves the toggle bat switch back to the original position when closed.   IE if you switch it towards the cover, then push on top of the red cover or hit by accident, it goes back to the original position/game.  You could probably beat that by putting a latching small pushbutton switch under it instead of a toggle. 

[Maximus]

Yeah the CP overlay was a NOS one that I got from Fizgig, the problem for me was finding the right Dynamo CP pattern to match it properly, there are so many damn hole patterns out there. I'll keep a look out as I go, hopefully one day I can find the proper Ikari CP hole layout and can redo it properly, but until then I'll just roll with what I already have.

I'll check out that switch cover when it arrives and see if it's an issue. Thanks for the heads up on that.

[Dawgz Rule]

Nice build.  If the CP upsets you too much, I can drive cross country to pick it up.  It would be nice to see my old stomping grounds (La Mesa).

[Maximus]

It would be nice to see my old stomping grounds (La Mesa).

Nice, we are in Escrow on a house on the border of El Cajon and La Mesa right now, nice area.

[emphatic]

Love the switch idea! 

[Maximus]

Tonight I'm going to try and make my own multi rotary harness out of all this stuff

[Maximus]

Board built harnesses next.

[Maximus]

[Maximus]

Well crap. This project seems to be a little cursed. The female pins I ordered seem to be too big for the connector blocks. When I try and push the pin into the block, the square housing at the back of the pin is just a bit too large for the opening in the block itself. Very frustrating.

[Nephasth]

Yup. NH series terminal pins won't fit in XH series connector housings. You need these pins for the housings you ordered: http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/SXH-001T-P0.6/455-1135-1-ND/527370

But turns out you ordered the wrong connector housings to begin with. Scott gave you this part number for the connector housings: http://www.digikey.com/scripts/dksearch/dksus.dll?vendor=0&keywords=H13P-SHF-AA
Which will work with the pins you already have.

[PL1]

Well crap. This project seems to be a little cursed. The female pins I ordered seem to be too big for the connector blocks. When I try and push the pin into the block, the square housing at the back of the pin is just a bit too large for the opening in the block itself. Very frustrating.

It's frustrating because the links I sent were for an NH series receptacle and pins.

Here's what I ended up buying
http://www.digikey.com/product-search/en?WT.z_header=search_go&lang=en&site=us&keywords=455-2214-ND&x=-1111&y=-51

and
http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/SHF-001T-0.8BS/455-1121-1-ND/527350

First link is for an XH series connector -- I believe the XH series pins you need for that are here if you want to use them for another project, but confirm on the datasheet before you order.

The good news is that the second link is for NH series pins that correspond with the P/N I posted.

The bad news is that I haven't found a source other than DigiKey here for the NH series receptacle -- minimum order is 500 pieces for $105.87.

Right now you have 2 joysticks = 2 harnesses = 4 connector ends.

You need 6 connector ends -- 2  for joysticks, 2 for Ikari Warriors, and 2 for Heavy Barrel.

As much as I hate to suggest hacking up perfectly good harnesses, if you could find one more, you can cut the three harnesses in half and splice in extensions that connect to the diode/splitter board.


Scott

[Nephasth]

The bad news is that I haven't found a source other than DigiKey here for the NH series receptacle -- minimum order is 500 pieces for $105.87.

Is your Google broken?
http://www.chip1stop.com/web/USA/en/dispDetail.do?partId=JST1-0002457&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=aggregator&utm_source=fc&utm_term=JST1-0002457&cid=fc_JST1-0002457

[emphatic]

The bad news is that I haven't found a source other than DigiKey here for the NH series receptacle -- minimum order is 500 pieces for $105.87.

Sometimes you can order free samples. It's worth a shot to find out if that's possible, if not from DigiKey, but from the manufacturer directly. 

[PL1]

The bad news is that I haven't found a source other than DigiKey here for the NH series receptacle -- minimum order is 500 pieces for $105.87.

Is your Google broken?
http://www.chip1stop.com/web/USA/en/dispDetail.do?partId=JST1-0002457&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=aggregator&utm_source=fc&utm_term=JST1-0002457&cid=fc_JST1-0002457

D'oh!  Missed that one.  Great catch.   

Hope the shipping from Japan doesn't cost too much.   


Scott

EDIT:
As I suspected.

Region/Country   Order Amount         Shipping Fee (per shipment)
NORTH AMERICA  Any order amount   JPY5,000 or USD60

Any other sources?

[Nephasth]

That's why I prefer Molex over JST.

[Maximus]

This is all rather complicated to the uninitiated but I'll get there.  I do have spare harnesses laying around, one is already cut in two so I'll give that a go

[Maximus]

Something is still wrong. I took an existing harness and just rearranged the pins so it was a straight-thru configuration. I attached the original joystick harness to the newly made board with the jumper on pin one, then used the straight thru harness to go from the multi-rotary board to the game board. No matter what I did I couldn't get any rotation responses. I tried it in both directions through the diodes in case I had them the wrong way around but still nothing 

[mcseforsale]

Heh.  NOOB!

Subscribed.

AJ

[PL1]

Something is still wrong. I took an existing harness and just rearranged the pins so it was a straight-thru configuration. I attached the original joystick harness to the newly made board with the jumper on pin one, then used the straight thru harness to go from the multi-rotary board to the game board. No matter what I did I couldn't get any rotation responses. I tried it in both directions through the diodes in case I had them the wrong way around but still nothing 

You probably have all the diodes pointing the same direction, which means that either one diode was reverse biased or 12 were, depending on how they were pointing and whether the joystick was plugged into the green or yellow connector below.

Remember that the band on the diode looks like a minus sign.

Put the minus sign toward the lower voltage (ground) like below to forward bias the diode when ground is applied so current flows and the diode acts like a closed switch.

In this diagram, the voltage from the signal line comes in on the second signal line, connects to the center wiper and goes back to the board through the ground wire.


Scott

EDIT: Updated the diagram to include the joystick connector (yellow), the two game board connectors (green, blue), and the proper number/location/orientation of diodes.  Thanks for catching my earlier error, Neph.

[Nephasth]

There is no diode on the ground, Scott.

Here's a straight on shot of one of the 2600 kits for reference:


Between each header (except the last one and the one above it) there are 25 traces. You sure you got your circuitry right?

[PL1]

There is no diode on the ground, Scott.

D'oh!

Didn't notice the direct jumper on the ground line earlier.

Is ground line on the joystick connected to the direct jumpered line on the board and does that line then connect to the ground on the Ikari Warriors board?

Seems like it would be easy to twist a connector around the wrong way.   


Scott

[Maximus]

I'm going to do some multimeter testing on this and see what's up.  Either the diodes are messed up or the connector blocks are not mating with the pins on the board

[Maximus]

Something is seriously wrong with the board I made its conducting between all pins. On closer inspection it looks like there may be a inner rail across the contacts which means I just wasted 4 hours of going blind

See the fine light green rails under the surface?

[Nephasth]

...which means I just wasted 4 hours of going blind

That took 4 hours to solder?

Looks like there's 4 "sections" to the board. If you desolder everything and rotate the board 90 degrees, you could make it work.

[yotsuya]

...which means I just wasted 4 hours of going blind

That took 4 hours to solder?

Looks like there's 4 "sections" to the board. If you desolder everything and rotate the board 90 degrees, you could make it work.

Griff's fast. That would have taken me 6 hours.

[mcseforsale]

Griff's fast. That would have taken me 6 BEERS.

There FIFY.  You're welcome.

AJ

[PL1]

You called it on the traces, Joel.

Looks like you may need to desolder, turn everything 90 degrees, do a few cuts (red) to the board, and resolder everything with the diodes and ground jumper bridging the cuts.


Scott

[CoryBee]

Or take a razor blade to the traces to cut them......

Do it twice to make sure, score it next to each pin

Try it on one and check if it the multimeter still reads a connection between them

[mcseforsale]

Yeah +1000.  Why kill it when you can do it cheap and dirty.  It's an obscure part, so noone will know.  Cept for us   

AJ

Or take a razor blade to the traces to cut them......

Do it twice to make sure, score it next to each pin

Try it on one and check if it the multimeter still reads a connection between them

[CoryBee]

Sometimes the "Schmart" boards.................Aren't so "Smart"

YEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEAAAAAAAAAAAA!

[PL1]

Yeah +1000.  Why kill it when you can do it cheap and dirty.  It's an obscure part, so noone will know.  Cept for us   

AJ

Or take a razor blade to the traces to cut them......

Do it twice to make sure, score it next to each pin

Try it on one and check if it the multimeter still reads a connection between them

You guys did notice that the red cuts don't go all the way across the board, right.

In case I didn't state it clearly before, you're advocating doing the same thing I suggested -- cutting the traces to isolate the center section.


Scott

[CoryBee]

Yeah +1000.  Why kill it when you can do it cheap and dirty.  It's an obscure part, so noone will know.  Cept for us   

AJ

Or take a razor blade to the traces to cut them......

Do it twice to make sure, score it next to each pin

Try it on one and check if it the multimeter still reads a connection between them

You guys did notice that the red cuts don't go all the way across the board, right.

In case I didn't state it clearly before, you're advocating doing the same thing I suggested -- cutting the traces to isolate the center section.


Scott

Oh.....Great minds and all?? 

[Maximus]

Either way I can't get under so I'd have to pull it all apart. Fortunately I ordered 100 diodes and only need 48 for the build so i have enough for another shot.  I just need to find the proper breadboard without any traces.

Good news is that I do have a very nice working Ikari Warriors at least lol

[Le Chuck]

Yeah +1000.  Why kill it when you can do it cheap and dirty.  It's an obscure part, so noone will know.  Cept for us   

AJ

Or take a razor blade to the traces to cut them......

Do it twice to make sure, score it next to each pin

Try it on one and check if it the multimeter still reads a connection between them

You guys did notice that the red cuts don't go all the way across the board, right.

In case I didn't state it clearly before, you're advocating doing the same thing I suggested -- cutting the traces to isolate the center section.


Scott

Further proof nobody reads your posts that carefully unless Rush is involved.   

[Maximus]

Ok ladies, glad you are all having fun 

Just to verify, I'm going to buy these pins to go with the connector blocks I already have...
http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/SXH-002T-P0.6/455-2261-1-ND/1651059

These new headers, because ---fudgesicle--- it I may as well start over...
http://www.digikey.com/scripts/DKSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&itemSeq=134141228&uq=635106966231654104

And this for the Perfboard (finally worked out the right term for this stuff)
http://www.digikey.com/scripts/DKSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&itemSeq=134142909&uq=635106981113818017