Monitor on Fire help? .. newbie ...

[kronic24601]

So I was playing my PPII the other day and the screen goes black and I start to smell smoke. After closer inspection, the moment I plug in the cab a fire starts in a section of the Monitor. (I've attached a photo). Due to my ignorance, I cannot tell if this is a specific piece I need to replace, the whole chassis, or what? ...

Yes, I know that monitors are dangerous and I know about the need to discharge, etc...

Anyone have any thoughts?

[nurmix]

Time for a new flyback transformer. Probably a HOT (high output transistor) as well. Do you know the monitor chassis make/model? Bob Roberts (therealbobroberts.net) has those parts for most monitors.

[kronic24601]

There is a sticker on that component that says:

Chassis = NMX-L21G
Model = TM-2026

[Ken Layton]

MatsuSHITa monitor.

[kronic24601]

So is there a suggested part I should get? I'm flying blind here ... or should I just contact Bob?
 http://therealbobroberts.net/parts.html#flyback

[mgb]

Yeah, if you any doubt, just contact bob with the model number and he will steer you right.
You'll want the Flyback and Horizontal Output Transistor.
  It's a good time to do a cap kit also

[lilshawn]

dude, fire!

...

*click*

 

[lcmgadgets]

 :oh holy crap!

[Le Chuck]

dude, fire!

...

*click*

 

exactly 

[kronic24601]

Bob suggested some parts ... will order them and see how things go. Will report back ...

[kronic24601]

UPDATE: So, I finally got around to installing the new Fly-back and the Cap kit. However the picture is VERY VERY dark. It takes like 10min to even see it at all.

1) The Cap kit was not complete. The Bob Roberts kit didn't include all the required caps for the chassis ... so that's still pending.
2) Also, I didn't replace the HOT (actually there are two). I tested with a multimeter and it seems fine ...

What else could it be?? Should I bother with the remaining caps? Thoughts?

[MonMotha]

After replacing the flyback, you may need to tweak the screen control on the (new) flyback.  This affects overall brightness A LOT.  You'll probably have to tweak focus (also on the flyback), too.

Do you know if the monitor worked prior to exhibiting flames?

[lilshawn]

After replacing the flyback, you may need to tweak the screen control on the (new) flyback.

agreed. most replacement flybacks come with the screen control turned all the way down so they don't fry the tube when they get first powered on.

[kronic24601]

Yes, it used to work fine. Unfortunately this fly-back has no brightness adjust ... only a focus adjustment. I wonder if I'm missing something ...

[lilshawn]

it should have 2 controls one "focus" and one "screen" (sometimes labeled as "G2")

i have yet to see a flyback with only one control.

[ed12]

excuse me brightness is not screen

>this fly-back has no brightness adjust ... <

that is a control on a control board

please get the terms right

ed

[kronic24601]

Fair-enough ... this flyback does not have a screen adjust capabilities. My K7000 works as the Lilshawn photo shows, but this Matushita for the Pole Position only has one pot to adjust for the flyback, and it is focus ...

If you look up at my original photo, you can see it there. There is only 1 pot. When I replaced the flyback, aside from the points that were soldered directly onto the board, there were only 2 wires coming out of it. one goes to the monitor ... the other to the focus pot ... there is nothing else to adjust ...

here is a photo of the replacement flyback ... it doesn't include the any pots ...
http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb270/leinhit/Jr%20Pacman/100_3010.jpg

[lilshawn]

that is bizarre. The only time i've seen anything like that was on the old 3 tube projection TV's. they had one BIG flyback that ran into a focus/screen network box with 6 adjustments (2 for each tube)...then branch out to the 3 tubes.

this might be a similar implementation.

your "screen" control might just be somehow manually adjusting the B+ or something feeding the actual flyback to produce more/less high voltage. be sure to read the voltage with a meter to verify it's level.

check this schematic manual on page 29 (pdf page 35): http://arcarc.xmission.com/PDF_Monitors/Atari%20Monitor%20TM-202%201st%20Printing%20Matsushita%2019in.pdf

this monitor should be pretty much the same as yours.

[kronic24601]

Thanks ... I'll take a look at that, I feel like I fiddled with the B+ adjustment dial, but I didn't use a voltmeter to set it exactly ... it's work a shot.