Router Bits Required?

[EssexMame]

Which router bits do I need?

I understand a 1/16 (1.5mm) slot cutter for the t-molding
A forstner bit for button holes AND to keep controls flush underneath etc. (routing out?)
A flush bit to level side 1 of the cabinet with side 2 once both are cut
Any others that are useful/necessary?

Looking to buy a Bosch 1400 at the weekend and want to get all the bits at the same time if possible.

What sizes do I need (UK so metric if possible) for each?

[Purple Tophat]

I came to ask one of the same questions:

What router bit should I use to make the recess for my under-panel mount joysticks? Not trying to hijack, just trying to kill both of our birds with the same answer...

Oh, and if it makes a difference, I'll be using the Bolt On router attachment for my Craftsman Bolt On cordless system. Never routed anything before!

http://www.sears.com/craftsman-bolt-on-8482-router-attachment/p-00934977000P?prdNo=8&blockNo=8&blockType=G8

[Drnick]

Which router bits do I need?

I understand a 1/16 (1.5mm) slot cutter for the t-molding
A forstner bit for button holes AND to keep controls flush underneath etc. (routing out?)
A flush bit to level side 1 of the cabinet with side 2 once both are cut
Any others that are useful/necessary?

Looking to buy a Bosch 1400 at the weekend and want to get all the bits at the same time if possible.

What sizes do I need (UK so metric if possible) for each?

Essexmame - you need a 1/16th Slot cutter for the tmolding, (1.5mm) a straight bit for the underpanel routing, 5/16ths" (8mm) and a 3/4"  cutting lenght Flush bit with guide for the side cutting. (18mm) (This is also known as a template bit and You can get these with top bearing or bottom bearing, I would get both)Then you need a Forstner Bit of whichever size you can need normally 1 1/16th or 28mm (That all depends on your buttons though).  I would get a half decent set of Router Bits, You would be amazed at some of things you can do with it. If you want to see any of the bits I used before you go and buy yours let me know, The offer is still open to lend you the slot cutter. Your local enough 

[PL1]

you need a Forstner Bit of whichever size you can need normally 1 1/16th or 28mm (That all depends on your buttons though).

One minor correction: 28mm is closer to 1-1/8".


Scott

Edit: Is that better, Nep?   

[Nephasth]

you need a Forstner Bit of whichever size you can need normally 1 1/16th or 28mm (That all depends on your buttons though).

One minor correction: 28mm = 1-1/8".


Scott

28mm = 1 7⁄64"

[PL1]

I'm still closer by 3/64".      


Scott

[Nephasth]

If you really want to get close...
1 105/1024" = 28.004mm

1024ths of an inch... now that's what I call RCHs!

[Unstupid]

I'd use a 30mm forstner bit if I had to drill holes for push buttons, and a 20mm bit for the joystick holes.

[EssexMame]

Ordered the router off Amazon (£88 UK):
1 x Bosch POF 1400 ACE router
1 x straight bit (8 mm diameter)
1 x centering pin
1 x template guide
3 x collets - diameter inch 1/4, 6, 8
1 x open-end spanner
1 x parallel guide
1 x dust extraction adapter
1 x instruction manual
1 x plastic carrying case

The straight bit I need (for underpanel routing) and will need to get 1.5mm slot cutter (t-molding), 18mm straight bit (more underpanel routing), 18mm flush/template bit (for making both sides the same size) and 28mm forstner bit (button holes though I have a 28mm spade drill bit may as well get this as I understand they are better!)

So, whats a collett? An open-end spanner? A centering pin? and a template guide? (the rest I can just about work out!!)

[Drnick]

The collet is the bit that tightens up around the router bit itself to hold it in place in your router. You have different sizes for the different size shafts on bits.  The open ended spanner is just that, a spanner, Used to tighten up the nut that pulls the collet tight around the router bit.
The Centering pin fits to the base and is used as a guide to make sure that you are following a centre line on your work.

Router template guide (AKA Bushing) fit onto the base of your router and act as a collar around the router bit.
You set up a template measure the offset between the router bit cutting edge and bushing, adjust your template position accordingly.
As you cut  the bushing rides along the edge of the template, guiding the bit as it cuts your material.

Looks like you got the list of things you need down, shame it's going to be another weekend of rain 

 

[EssexMame]

Thanks Nick, yeah I've all the gear including an electric screwdriver now. All the gear,no idea !

Looks like I need 1/4", 6" or 8" router bits then. Odd it's in inches in uk now and odd the size range varies o much!

[Unstupid]

What are you talking about when you say 6" and 8" router bits? 

[PL1]

Looks like I need 1/4", 6" or 8" router bits then.

Pretty sure that should be 1/4", 6mm, or 8mm.   

I don't remember ever seeing a 6" router bit, let alone an 8" bit.   


Scott

[EssexMame]

I was going on the product description - it mentioned inch but not mm but 6mm and 8mm of course makes more sense!

3 x collets - diameter inch 1/4, 6, 8

[EssexMame]

When talking about a 1/16th (1.5mm) slot cutter, what does the measurement refer to - is it the width or depth of the slot created?

For 18mm MDF you'd then adjust the depth of the router to 9mm to cut centrally.

[Drnick]

It is the width of the cut, the depth varies but generally doesn't overly matter. For 18mm you would adjust to 8.25mm or 9.75 (Depending on if the measurement is from the top or the bottom of the cutter. Me personally I just eyeballed it with a bit of scrap, and then slapped a bit of t-mold in and repeated until perfect.

[fluentd]

Any chance someone could compile a list of router bits from Amazon that are needed?

[Hornet]

EssexMame just a word of warning as you seem to have never used a router before. These things can do some serious damage if not used correctly. There are some good video's on youtube that explains most and more of what you will need to know.

The router bit spins in one direction, clockwise normally, make sure you move the router up when your wood is on the left side of you and the the bit, and down when its on the right side of the bit and you. If you don't you can get what is known as a kickback where the router can jump out of your hands and the bit can and does take fingers with it.

There is more and better info on the right direction here; http://www.newwoodworker.com/rtrfeeddir.html

Its always exciting buying new tools and using them, the router is not a tool for being complacent with. Good luck and hope you enjoy your new router.