Pentranic 1435 monitor - need help

[ids]

I just got this Pentranic 1435 monitor, and I have no idea what to do with it.  There are no obvious connection points for any type of video signal.  The only connector of any type is the standard power socket (like those used on computers, etc).  There is a set of 6 wires connected to a straight molex-like connector (red,green,blue,black,yellow,white).  These wires appear unused, as the other ends have nothing attached and appear never to have had anything - insulation not stripped either.  Perhaps they were meant to run a vid signal?  Google isn't helping me much with this either.  There is a little sticker that says its CGA/EGA selectable.

I will keep googling but any help will be greatly appreciated.

[ed12]

here
>http://www.niemandisplays.com/<
end link

ed

[Rickn]

Yes the wires from the Molex connector are the signal input. relatively self explanatory. Red is red video, green is green etc. Black is ground. In most cases only the yellow will be used for Composite sync input, The monitor should accept both CGA (15Khz) or 24Khz (mid-res) depending on where another plug is positioned.
Hope this helps, but if need be e-mail me with other questions.
Rick@Niemandisplays.com

[ids]

Thanks Rick - I've been googling all day and have slowly come to realize what you are saying.

I've also seen commonly expressed the opinion that CGA/15khz is better than EGA, to match the classic games.  From the way it looks, the thing is wired for 24, but I can just pop the molex off and push it into the neighbouring one to go 15khz, afaik

It also appears that the easiest way to drive it would be the ArcadeVGA, or else risk frying it with excessive frequencies.  Soft15khz is another option, but that only kicks in once Windoze is up, so the risk remains?  Are there other options?  I'm not opposed to going with ArcadeVGA, but if I could save the $90+shipping (or $112 at theplaydiumstore), I'd be a little happier.

Thank you.

[Rickn]

Did you just say Playdium store? Sounds like you may be located close to us here in Ontario. Send me an e-mail Rick@niemandisplays.com with your location. I may have a few options for you?
Rick

[ids]

is this a melted cap or ...?

[MonMotha]

Looks like no.  That's just glue that's used to hold the cap in place during shipping and handling.

[ids]

Thanks for the reply.  Based on prior googling, that is the answer I was hoping for.  However, I still need to figure out why I can't get an image on the monitor.  All the other caps look ok.  I've played with all the settings.     

[ids]

Got the monitor all set up but having two issues.
1) The image is cut off on both sides
2) Not sure the term for this, see image attached.

I have played with all the settings (h-size, pincushion, etc) and cannot resolve either of these.  Any suggestions?

thanks

[ed12]

that is exactley this >pincushion<
bring your vert and horz size down a bit,both of them
and see if u can get it to square up
if so them open the size's back up.
this is a slow process,so take your time.
but the point here
underscan a tad first,then try to square
if u get square?. then open the size's back up slowley

ed

[ids]

Thanks ed.  I tried all sorts of adjustments as per your comments, but without much to show for it.  Even with vsize and hsize at their smallest, the pincushion effect was not noticeably altered.

[ed12]

ok
maybe u should send rickn a pm
he is a op here
if i rem right he had explained to me that exact problem
and it's cure
but he would know alot better then me

ed

[ids]

I'm still hoping someone can help with this one - the pincushion problem in particular.

I've attached several pics showing the adjustments available.  I'm pretty sure I've tried all combinations at this point, but you never know.

Computer is pretty much all set up now, so I'd love to resolve this issue.

Many thanks in advance.

[ed12]

i know that as a ch289 chassic
u see the stanup board in your pic ?
the attached to the heat-sink ?
that is your smps requlator.
on that board is 2 cap's
they MUST BE REPLACED
1 is the slow start cap for the req
the other is a filter
replace BOTH.
re-adjust your b+
do u have the service info on this unit ?
if not say not i will find the pdf
beside  your flyback  is a filter cap >replace it<,it is on the flyback side of the heatsink,u will need to look for it
infront of the 15/25 jumper board is a cap,it is monolytic
REPLACE IT ALSO
i have all the note's on that unit
also STAY AWAY FROM THE NECK BOARD CONTROLS
THEY DO NOT CONTROL PINCUSSION
they are your main crt gun control's
ie red/green/blue
your chaassic is a ch289
if u call rick and tell him that he can better wlak u through it

ed

[ed12]

i need to add
it started at ch250
see the pdf

ed

[MonMotha]

The top left knob on your remote board (as pictured with the cabling at bottom) is labeled pincushion.  I assume you've messed with it and gotten no response?

[ids]

ed12, thank you very much for all the info and tracking down the document/schematic.  Are you sure the caps need replacing?  They all look ok - no bulging or leaking.  (Well, one has a very slight bulge on the top).  I also suspect this monitor has not seen any/much use since it comes from a supposedly "new" cab, and there is nothing that my untrained eye can see which would indicate it has ever been hooked up.  I don't mind doing the work if that is what's required; i'd just want to be sure.  I defer to your wisdom, however, as this CRT stuff is not my area of expertise.

MonMotha, yes I've played with the pincushion button and it has only a minor effect, as does the h.wid adjustment.  Unfortunately, the width setting is another one that needs more adjustment than I've been able to achieve, as per this robotron image - you can see the vertical lines are all but gone.

Otherwise, i must admit, i finally understand why some people are willing to fork over the extra cash for an authentic arcade monitor.  I'm now thinking of replacing the TV in my other mame cab.  I've never been a purist, but...damn...what a difference (even with the issues i'm having).

Thanks

[ed12]

yes ids i have lived it
i should have crib note's here on that unit
will look for them

ed

[ids]

Thanks.

Would re-capping also reduce the intense high-pitch sound?  My son heard it from some distance, on another level of the house!

[Billy_Goatfeet]

 
  I have the exact same monitor as you ids, I am also starting to try to hook mine up through and ArcadeVGA 3000.  I don't have much to add from a technical standpoint as I am a neophyte with this stuff but very timely, hoping to read along for all the great tidbits, thanks for all the info people!

BG.


 

[ids]

I have put this one on hold for now.  I believe the monitor is "new" (or NOS if you prefer).  It came in a new showcase cab and shows no signs of ever being in use.  The caps all look fine, so I think re-capping is not really needed (but what do i know?).  I reached out to Rick but haven't received any info to date.  So, without much hope in hand, I have let this slide down the priority list.  I was going to re-cap anyway...one day....but too many other things to take care of right now.

However, if you need help hooking it up to the AVGA, I have done that and will help as much as possible.  One thing I stumbled on was that if the AVGA is connected to both a regular monitor and an arcade one, it seems to prefer feeding the signal only to the regular one.  To make it feed the arcade monitor, unplug the other one before booting.

[Billy_Goatfeet]

   Did you buy the big blue showcase kit?  Sounds like we have the same one.... Any instructions would be amazing....My monitor comes with the 6 pin molex connector, with red, green, blue, yellow, black, white.  I need to get that in to the 15 pin input of the AVGA.  When you mentioned hooking it up to the arcade monitor as well as a 'regular' monitor, did you mean a computer screen or an actual tv?  Curious to see if it works well when the DVI is going out to a computer monitor.  After I bought mine I had to remove and replace it twice and all it really needed was a manual degaussing.  That was a serious p.i.t.a. they are quite heavy!!   I bet you paid a lot less for yours than I did mine!!

BG.

[ids]

Yeah, looks like the same showcase thing.  My monitor did not have any connector, just wires hanging loose - not even stripped on the ends.  Perhaps the molex was just cut off?

With respect to mention of a regular monitor - I meant connecting a normal computer monitor to the DVI connector on the AVGA.  If this is connected on boot, no signal is sent to the arcade monitor (via the VGA connector).  I assumed it supported both simultaneously, but apparently not.

Sorry to report, but I did pay a fair bit less.  Got mine on auction.  It had a few dings, the control panel section was supposed to be missing, but they actually found it after the auction (coin door missing, though).  The blue protective plastic was still on the monitor plastic cover bit, and the marquee bit.  I count myself lucky on this one...except for the monitor issues.

[Rickn]

Please check to see if R902 has been cut. This is done if the tube is "pin Free" in your case it should not be cut.
This is a CH288 chassis not CH289 or CH250.
I do not always check the forums or my PM's best way is to e-mail me, if I do not respond it has likely went to Junk mail.

Rick@Niemandisplays.com

e-mail me and I will send you the right schematic

[ids]

I found this, not sure if relevant: http://www.arcade-museum.com/manuals-monitors/Pentranic%20CH-288%20Switchable.pdf

[ids]

Some proof that Rick nailed it in attached images.  Main board and a small pop-up board both have the chassis numbering.

I couldn't find R902, but will keep looking.

Played around a bit more - it's a pita.  Depending on resolution, I often have to tweak various horiz and vert settings to stabilize the picture.  For example, NFL Blitz can't be made wide enough to fill the screen, yet a pic I posted earlier (above) of Robotron shows how I cannot make it small enough to fit horizontally.  Not sure if these details help with troubleshooting.

Thanks

[Billy_Goatfeet]

 
  Nice.  I am becoming paranoid about these monitors....considering I have basically the same system as you...will know soon enough, should have it hooked up and working as soon as my J-Pac arrives!   Thanks for all the useful info on this thread!


BG.

 

[ed12]

ya rickn nailed it
my bawd i had 288 and 289 confused
but rickn is 1 of the most helpful ppl u will ever come across

ed

[ids]

Getting back to this, finally, and I've located R902 - appears to be safe and sound.

anything else I can do, short of a recap?


Thanks