X-Arcade Tankstick Wiring Question

[Frick]

We're building a MAME machine for the office and had an X-Arcade Tankstick donated to us... minus the "PC cable".  It's going to take X-Gaming 2-3 weeks to ship us a new one, so we were wondering if anyone with a tankstick could possibly provide the pinout for their "PC cable" (Serial -> USB + PS/2).  We tried a serial to USB adapter before realizing that the serial output is non-standard and is just carrying USB and PS/2.  Anyone with this cable and a multi-meter handy?  Your time would be greatly appreciated!

[BobA]

Here is a thread about the old Xarcade pc cable.   It is very difficult info to come by and I have not seen info on the newer cable with USB.  You wait is probably the only way to get a guaranteed working cable.

http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=61615.msg627788#msg627788

[Frick]

Thanks for the reply!  Unfortunately that was the only info I came by as well in my search.  I was actually surprised to not find anything, anywhere online about the USB cable.     So again, if anyone happens to have one lying around, we'd really love the help!  Otherwise our office hackday project is quite literally relegated to just the trackball since that USB cable is attached.  haha

[Frick]

Had them rush us a cable (had those in stock, just not the PCB that usually comes with it) and for the greater good I've put together this pinout for anyone else that may stumble across this thread.

[marcushg85]

hi there, this drawing helped me so much long ago. now i bought an xbox adapter for x-arcade, but i miss also the serial cable (console extension) which looks like a male to male serial cable, but i'm almost sure it isn't a standard cable. Can someone show me how it is? (measuring with multimeter or something)...

[fctr]

Thank to everyone who added to this, but let me be the one who shows everyone how to do this simply:

1) Order a DB9 male breakout connector
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071DS5GTW

2) Order prewired USB male cables
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CKTQC4BC

3) Connect the following:
USB GND (Almost always the black wire) to the shield on the DB9 connector
USB Vcc 5v (Almost always the red wire) to pins 2 and 9 on the DB9 connector
USB Data+ (In my case it was the green wire) to pin 6 on the DB9 connector
USB Data- (In my case it was the white wire) to pin 5 on the DB9 connector

Voila! You now have a working cable.

Or, if you want something cleaner:

1) Order a JST XH 2.54MM 9 Pin Female Single Connector:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07314YS37

2) Order prewired USB male cables
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CKTQC4BC

3) Remove the internal connectors all together and wire it like this:
USB GND (Almost always the black wire) to the pin 9 on the JST connector
USB Vcc 5v (Almost always the red wire) to pins 3 and 6 on the JST connector
USB Data+ (In my case it was the green wire) to pin 2 on the JST connector
USB Data- (In my case it was the white wire) to pin 8 on the JST connector

You can reuse the cable strain relief on your new USB cable. And for those who don't know, JST connectors have a small notch next to pin 1.

[fctr]

Update:

I actually did the both the cable and clean versions. Both worked well. The clean version looks much nicer and is better with the totally clean version that I'm going to present now.

First, do the JST XH 2.54MM 9 Pin Female option. The USB cable only has to be about 4-6", when done.

Then order these:

(1) USB Splitter 1 in 3 Out
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0GH45DKS7

(1) USB 3.0 to USB C Panel Mount Adapter Connector
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0GH45DKS7

(1) JST EH 4Pin (JTS-2.5-EH)  connector (I can't find smaller EH set of connectors that aren't in a set like these)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0F2MDCCQL

(1) Nylon Hole Plug Set
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0DKFHDWVY

Remove the track ball by unbolting it from the tankstick. Don't lose the nuts.

Remove all four screws holding the trackball together. Don't lose the screws. MAKE SURE YOU ARE HOLDING THE TRACKBALL CASE TOGETHER AFTER REMOVING THE LAST SCREW SO IT DOESN'T DROP EVERYTHING ON THE FLOOR!

Flip the trackball case over and remove the top. Now is a great time to clean the trackball and all it's parts. It's amazing how much hair gets in there.

Grab the USB cable and carefully remove it from the grommet and circuit board. Why they chose to use JST EH connectors instead of the more common JST XH connectors, I can't explain.

Now connect a prewired USB cable to a new JST EH connector, following the color scheme on the old connector (Red, White, Green, Black, on mine). This USB cable also doesn't need to be more than 6" long.

Once you've verified your new trackball and joystick USB connections work independently, connect them both up to USB splitter.

Now drill a 1" diameter hole somewhere on the back of the tankstick. I chose the middle, but you do you.

Screw in the USB 3.0 to USB C Panel Mount Adapter Connector in the hole you just made, and connect the USB splitter into that. Now you have ONE USB C connection for the trackball AND joysticks.

Don't forget to screw everything back together as you took it apart, and wire tie all the loose wires.

Now you can use the nylon hole plugs to cover the empty holes left by the old cables.

If you choose to be forward thinking, you could use the extra USB port to power LEDs inside the tankstick, or dangle it outside for a keyboard connection.

Have fun!