VGA to Component adapter

[maffewl]

I have an older HP Media Center computer that I am using for my mame brain that is currently connected through S-Video.  I bought a VGA to Component adapter thinking this would give me a better picture.  However, when I hooked everything up, nothing happened on the Component input on the t.v. 

Am I missing something here?  I'm pretty sure my computer is component capable?

Here are some images of the connections.  Thanks in advance.

[Junai]

I would bet thats giving you straight rgb not ypbpr.

[maffewl]

I would bet thats giving you straight rgb not ypbpr.

Sorry if this is a noob question but I don't have a clue about most of this type stuff.

What is the difference between the 2, and is there a work-around to make it work?

[SNAAKE]

lol

what kind of tv is that? your computer is probably outputting vga/640x480 and your tv is probably a standard resolution 480i thats why you are not seeing any picture. you have the force the video card+software to output lower resolution to match the TV. someone else can help you set it up. I am not particularly familiar with TVs.

[sharpfork]

Your card is going to have to support the cable and you are going to have to get it putting out the correct resolution.

I found that having the s-video and the component conversion cables hooked up at the same time forced my old ass ATI video card to output 480i.  I had to go back to an old version of the drivers to get 480i working.  Newer drivers only did 480p. 

Oddly enough, I found that windows 7 did 480i and even monitor rotation natively out of the box with no additional drivers or video card software.  I was using a crappy x1650 + this thing http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=104&cp_id=10419&cs_id=1041901&p_id=2398&seq=1&format=2

Dealing with crap like this is a big part of why I use consoles (mostly xBox) -> component cables -> 480i TVs now.

[MonMotha]

Almost nothing is going to support that cable the way you're using it.  It's mostly intended for hooking YPbPr component up to some projectors that happen to accept both YPbPr and RGB on the same HD15 input connector (there's usually an option in the menu to pick).

If you want to get an image of some form, you'll need sync on green, and you'll have to set the resolution to something compatible with the TV.  It's an "EDTV" capable of 480p, plain ol 640x480 would work.  If it's a pure "SDTV", you'll have to use one of the many tricks to get a PC to output 480i.  Look at the thread on "Soft15kHz".

Now, this won't address the colorspace issue.  The PC will still be outputting RGB, and the TV will still be expecting YPbPr.  The colors will be rather messed up, and there's no good way to fix it 99.99% of the time.

You may have a video card that outputs YPbPr component on the "S-Video" connector.  If it's got more than 4 pins on that connector, you may be in luck.  You'll need to locate a suitable breakout cable.

[rCadeGaming]

We can't give a complete answer without any details.  What kind of graphics card?  What's the model number of the TV?

+1 with MonMotha.  It's very unlikely that your card supports that cable. 

VGA is RGB, meaning color is communicated in separate red, green, and blue color signals, with two more separate signals for sync.  Component translates color differently.  It uses luma, red difference, and blue difference, and it puts sync on the luma signal.  You can't input RGB into a component input and just expect it to work.

[maffewl]

I appreciate all the comments.  It sounds like much more than I understand.  I think I'll just stick to the S-Video cable and explore the component from that avenue.

Again, much thanks!

[newsdee]

The problem is this: the cable connects the machines but they're not speaking the same language.

For it to work you either need to fiddle with the PC or put something in the middle to do the conversion.
Whether your PC can "talk component" depends on the card and drivers. This is the cheapest option.

Otherwise you need a little device called a transcoder. Probably $50-$150 depending on how good they are.
Here's a quick example from google: http://www.digitalconnection.com/products/video/9a60.asp

[Gonemad]

I appreciate all the comments.  It sounds like much more than I understand.  I think I'll just stick to the S-Video cable and explore the component from that avenue.

Again, much thanks!

Good call. I have had countless people call me and ask " Why cant I get my tv to work with my pc?" I they have a $5 ebay connector similar to the one you have there. Like stated above, unless you want to spend the $$$, stick the the S-Video, you aren't going to get much better noticeable picture anyway.

[rCadeGaming]

unless you want to spend the $$$, stick the the S-Video

The time investment for proper native res is more substantial than the money.  I enjoy the time spent, others find it to be a chore.  This is really what you have to be careful of.

you aren't going to get much better noticeable picture anyway.

You're trying to convince yourself that it's not worth the work, which may be true for you, but your statement here is blatantly false.  There is an immense difference between stretch blurry graphics lacking scanlines in 480i, vs proper 240p.

[sharpfork]

You're trying to convince yourself that it's not worth the work, which may be true for you, but your statement here is blatantly false.  There is an immense difference between stretch blurry graphics lacking scanlines in 480i, vs proper 240p.

I'm pretty happy with 480i over component on flat glass CRT.  I play on real arcade hardware pretty often and they feel pretty much the same to me.  I do think that component is worth the effort over sVideo, especially if your CRT supports it.
Even with ATI and nVidia cards that I support 480i TV via component, I hated trying to get XP dialed in with a nice picture.  Many of the newer drivers only support 480p which the TVs I have don't support.  Windows 7 was much easier.  Consoles with native 480i support via component are the easiest.

[rCadeGaming]

I'm not talking about just 480i over component, I'm talking about proper native resolutions around 240p.  Real scanlines in 240p versus none in 480i is a world of difference.

[sharpfork]

I'm not talking about just 480i over component, I'm talking about proper native resolutions around 240p.  Real scanlines in 240p versus none in 480i is a world of difference.

I have scan lines on both of my 480i setups without any filters added.  It is like this on my xBox, x360, PS2, and PC.

[rCadeGaming]

That picture is too small and blurry to even make out individual scanlines.

Is that a game that's natively 480 lines?  From what I can see, the scanlines there are very thin, which is appropriate for actual 480 line content and should look great.

However, it will not look best with something that's natively 240p (most arcade games from the 70's, 80's, and 90's).  What should be around 240 lines will be doubled to 480 lines (and not completely smoothly as most of these games are not exactly 240 lines), meaning that instead of one nice distinct scanline in between each line of resolution, there will be one very thin one in between each line, AND another one cutting in half what should have been a solid line.

Proper 240p:




So....  with a sharp enough monitor you can see some thin scanlines in 480i.  They'll probably be great for something that's supposed to 480 lines, but they won't be good for something that's supposed to be 240 lines (95% of MAME games).  They will be thin, there will be twice as many as there should be, and they will not be in the right places.

[sharpfork]

So....  with a sharp enough monitor you can see some thin scanlines in 480i.  They'll probably be great for something that's supposed to 480 lines, but they won't be good for something that's supposed to be 240 lines (95% of MAME games).  They will be thin, there will be twice as many as there should be, and they will not be in the right places.

Thanks for clarifying.  It isn't actually no scanlines, it is thinner scanlines happening 2x times too often.  I guess that is why my trying hardware scanline generators on LCDs has made it feel like the scanlines were way too heavy.  I'll play some more on my setup at home then head over to my local arcade and see see if I can tell the difference when looking for it.

[rCadeGaming]

If you go to the arcade, be sure you're looking at a properly set up machine with a sharp enough monitor to see some good scanlines. 

I saw a Ms. Pacman/Galaga replica the other day that looked like it wasn't running at native res.

Now, if you're looking at an original machine that's from the time period and not a multi-pcb or something, you're practically guaranteed to be seeing correct native res, as the operator would have to go out of his way to change this.  At this point though, the sharpness of the monitor (mostly due to dot pitch) will determine if you can see the scanlines or not, and how bold they'll be.  Different monitors will show different intensities of scanlines, from none to very thick ones, and it's entirely a preference.

[Brizzle]

PLEASE HELP! 
I'm trying to do the CRT Emu / Groovymame thing, but I have a questions about the cable I'm using.  I have photos and details on my post at http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,148334.msg1545572.html#msg1545572

I want to get my arcade setup by the holidays so my son and I can game a lot over my week off from work.  Thanks!!!!!!