MDF surface on workbench?

[shponglefan]

I just built a new workbench.  Top material is plywood, but I was debating putting a 1/8" layer of MDF on top.  Bascially something that I could replace in the future if the surface gets too gunked up.

Only concerns is if it will be durable enough (I know liquids & MDF don't mix) and possible too smooth.

For people who use MDF surfaces do they work well?  Or are there better alternatives?

[Le Chuck]

I've seen folks top with a 1/4" sheet of plywood so they can switch it out (but never do).  Seems to hold up better and is smooth (enough).  Never had experience with an MDF topped workbench. 

[ChadTower]

I don't think it will make all that much of a difference.  Maybe some day it will save you a splinter.

[Arimack]

I used HDF (hardboard - the same stuff pegboard is made out of without the holes) on mine.  It is smooth, tough and cheap.  Also, it is thin and easy to work with.  No problem replacing it after awhile.  The 4x8 3/16 thick panels sell for like $10-15 a sheet at your local bigbox hardware store.  Most benchs can make two tops out of a single sheet (great for making a replacement to keep on hand.)  Hardboard makes a great, durable, smooth surface.  Easy to clean as well and no finishing reuired to protect it.

[Slippyblade]

I second Arimack's recommendation.  Hardboard is awesome.  MDF soaks fluids to quick for my taste as a workbench top.  Yeah yeah - I know.  Just don't spill anything...  That never works.

[drventure]

I really like a "workbench" design that I came across in Fine WoodWorking.

Basically the idea is to build 2 torsion box beams, about 6 inches high, 9" wide and, I did mine 8' long, though you can make em any size.

On 1 side you screw down melamine or hardboard over 3/4 ply, on the other side, screw down 3/4 homasote over 3/4 ply.

The homasote is kind of like a really soft MDF, you use that side when you want a soft, grippy surface.

Flip the beam and you've got a hard, chemical  resistant surface.

With two beam you can push them together for a wider work surface or spread them apart for working on odd shaped pieces, furniture with legs, that kind of thing.

So far, i'm really liking them.

However, I'd still like to also have a full-on workbench with built in clamps.

[Woodshop Flunky]

If I were going to do a replaceable top, I'd use hardboard.

That said, I've beat all my workbenches half to death.  It really hurt the first time a dropped a little paint or stain (or drilled through a piece of wood).  But now, when things get bad... I just "clean it up" with my sander.

BTW... I don't have a proper cabinet maker's bench.  If I had something as nice as that, I might sing a different song.

[walker_tr9]

Who cares, man.  A workbench is supposed to get messed up!  I've got 3/4" plywood on mine (finish quality).  I then put about 4 coats of poly on it to make it smooth and avoid splinters.  It's kind of scratched up now, but I don't care.  I can always lightly sand it, and put another cost of varnish on it.

[shponglefan]

Thanks for the replies.  A sheet of hardboard at HD is only 8 bucks, so I'll probably just give it a shot and see how it works.  If I don't like it, I suppose I'll have extra hardboard to use in projects.

[steveh]

when i bought my house there was a 12' workbench in my garage.   it was battered beaten, and soaked in mystery fluids.  i honestly never used it, it was just piled with garbage.  So the other day i started really looking at it, wanting to clean out my garage and get it functional.   To my surprise i found that one side of the bench was held up by nothing but paint cans!!!  (see pic)

so needless to say i tore that thing out.  The 12' boards were in rough shape, but i figured i could possibly sand them down, and reuse them for a bench.  So i cut them in half, and tried to sand them.  the gunk on top of the wood was so mucky, i burned through a few peices of sandpaper, and only made it maybe 6" into the first board.  So i said forget this.  I happened to have some poly left over from when i did my floors in my house.  Just so happens enough for two coats on top of the wood.  I honestly did not care what it looked like, i just wanted it functional.  It locked in all that gunk and gave me a nice hard surface to use.  Unfortunately i did not get the smoothest coats on top of it, but its going to be highly functional.  I roughly followed this guide i found online.  http://www.hammerzone.com/archives/workshop/bench/below20xl.html

all in all im very happy with what i made.  I know its slightly off topic, but in short, i just used whatever wood i had laying around.  Like the other people have mentioned a work bench is for working on, and it does not have to look too great, just has to function well.

[kahlid74]

My work tables are MDF but I use 4-5 coats of Poly on them giving them that coating of almost an epoxy look/feel.  over the life of it you'll ding/dent it and dig down to the MDF base but you can always sand/re-poly.

So in your case you could use a 1/8 or 1/4 MDF but I would poly it 3-5 times so that it's liquid resistant.

[javeryh]

My work table has an MDF top.  It has held up great.  When I think I need to replace it I'll probably just add a layer of 1/8" hardboard and route the edges flush.