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Author Topic: drilling on end grain  (Read 3757 times)

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SavannahLion

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drilling on end grain
« on: September 06, 2012, 06:23:33 pm »
I was thinking.... If I cut a 1"x1" square of wood about two inches long, is it feasible to drill on the end grain (the 1x1 side) without burning the bit out or collapsing the wall? I can see using a jig to support the piece but i can't recall a time I ever needed to drill against the grain.

PL1

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Re: drilling on end grain
« Reply #1 on: September 07, 2012, 01:50:47 am »
What size hole and which application are you thinking about?

I don't forsee a problem, assuming you aren't trying to drill a 15/16" hole in a 1"x1".

I'm pretty sure it isn't uncommon to use screws or dowels through drilled holes in the endgrain for light duty shelves.


Scott

Le Chuck

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Re: drilling on end grain
« Reply #2 on: September 07, 2012, 09:20:07 am »
I recommend using a press if you're endgrain drilling.  I did some by hand recently for a small application and one of the bits caught a soft spot in the grain and wandered all the hell off of straight through.  Probably a rare case. I also tried to bore into the end(grain?) of some MDF once (first darkade cp actually) and that went all to ---steaming pile of meadow muffin--- in a hurry.  It's like the MDF vaporized. 

SavannahLion

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Re: drilling on end grain
« Reply #3 on: September 07, 2012, 10:01:26 am »
Man my math must be ---steaming pile of meadow muffin---. I was thinking 1"2 would be enough except I was doing my math with the radius, not diameter.

I need to drill a minimum of a 3/4" hole to use as a hidden "jumper" or a bridge for a pinball.  I was eyeing 3/4 PVC pipe sections but A) I can't guarantee the nominal measurements would fit B) can't figure out how to end mount it without spending money for a specialized endcap I don't want anyways.

PL1

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Re: drilling on end grain
« Reply #4 on: September 07, 2012, 11:11:26 am »
If there's only going to be one bridge, drilling through the broad side of a 2x4  and screwing the boxes to it might be the easy approach.

If the 1x1 size factor is critical, PVC is going to be way easier than end drilling even a short bridge.

You might want to take a pinball (or micrometer) with you on your next visit to the store.

Home Depot has 1/2" schedule 40 PVC with an Inner Diameter of .608" +/- .005". (verified several samples w. micrometer)

3/4" probably follows that sizing pattern.

Worst case, step up to 1" diameter.

Drill partway in from the outside of the 2 boxes you're bridging with a bit the size of the PVC Outer Diameter.

Finish drilling through with a bit the size of the PVC Inner Diameter.

This will give you a stepped diameter hole.

The outer stepped hole is your mounting fixture.  If the PVC doesn't wedge in firmly, add a wrap or 2 of duct tape.


Scott

TopJimmyCooks

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Re: drilling on end grain
« Reply #5 on: September 07, 2012, 12:22:04 pm »
pinballs are 1 1/16" diameter typically so you may need 1 1/4" pvc (id inside diameter is how pvc pipe is sized) if the ball has to fit completely inside the pipe.  may be able to go with less if it's open on top/just a trough. 

SavannahLion

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Re: drilling on end grain
« Reply #6 on: September 07, 2012, 01:23:28 pm »
pinballs are 1 1/16" diameter typically so you may need 1 1/4" pvc (id inside diameter is how pvc pipe is sized) if the ball has to fit completely inside the pipe.  may be able to go with less if it's open on top/just a trough. 

I'm using 5/8" or I'm trying. My order was dropped ??? Oh well, I'll try elsewhere.

It can't be open on top, the jump or bridge or whatever needs to prevent exactly that. I have a trough which just needs an appropriate bit to shape. I haven't had a chance to look. It's all hidden so beauty isn't high on the list.

@PL1

There are ten to be done. I figure each to be about two inches long.

The PVC is what I looked at originally and as much as I dislike the material it is the easiest. I just can't work out how to afix it cleanly. My laptop with the work files disappeared under a pile of crap and my ASCII-art sucks....so....

I'm looking at using two layers of hardboard with the tube traveling over the gap and through the 2nd layer with this kind of arrangement note. Tube is horizontal.

¦_¦_
¦_o_
¦ ¦

Yeah it sucks. Point is, with the wood tube, it'll give me something to nail four finishing nails into through the hardboard, a bit of putty to fill the holes, sand and I'm done. Can't quite work it out using PVC.



Le Chuck

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Re: drilling on end grain
« Reply #7 on: September 07, 2012, 01:56:28 pm »
^ SavannahLion's Ice Cold Peak of Beer?

PL1

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Re: drilling on end grain
« Reply #8 on: September 07, 2012, 02:00:38 pm »
pinballs are 1 1/16" diameter typically so you may need 1 1/4" pvc (id inside diameter is how pvc pipe is sized) if the ball has to fit completely inside the pipe.  may be able to go with less if it's open on top/just a trough. 

I'm using 5/8" or I'm trying. My order was dropped ??? Oh well, I'll try elsewhere.

Wait. . . What??  I thought you needed a DIAMETER of 1"+.  Why are you ordering 5/8" DIAMETER tubing?


Scott

Le Chuck

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Re: drilling on end grain
« Reply #9 on: September 07, 2012, 02:04:39 pm »
pinballs are 1 1/16" diameter typically so you may need 1 1/4" pvc (id inside diameter is how pvc pipe is sized) if the ball has to fit completely inside the pipe.  may be able to go with less if it's open on top/just a trough. 

I'm using 5/8" or I'm trying. My order was dropped ??? Oh well, I'll try elsewhere.

Wait. . . What??  I thought you needed a DIAMETER of 1"+.  Why are you ordering 5/8" DIAMETER tubing?


Scott

He never said that you did lol.  He said 3/4 max. 

@SL, have you thought about just making wire tracks that go to a ball chute?  I know it's be a pain in the ass to get all bent right but it'd look sweet and give you tons of clearance for the switches. 
« Last Edit: September 07, 2012, 02:06:48 pm by Le Chuck »

PL1

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Re: drilling on end grain
« Reply #10 on: September 07, 2012, 03:04:03 pm »
I can't brain right now, I haz teh dumb.   :banghead:

ICB - 3 little letters and the heavens open up and a beam of light shines down, clearly illuminating the terrain in which we currently find ourselves deployed.

Now I understand what you're aiming for and what materials you're working with.

He never said that you did lol.  He said 3/4 max. 

Close. . .

I need to drill a minimum of a 3/4" hole to use as a hidden "jumper" or a bridge for a pinball.

Min, max, either way still leads us to the same question:

@SL:  Exactly how big are your balls?   :laugh2:


Scott

TopJimmyCooks

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Re: drilling on end grain
« Reply #11 on: September 07, 2012, 04:53:08 pm »
[Bon Scott voice]
'E's got big balls
She's got big balls
but we've got the biggest - balls of them all. 

SavannahLion

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Re: drilling on end grain
« Reply #12 on: September 08, 2012, 12:48:59 am »
@SL, have you thought about just making wire tracks that go to a ball chute?  I know it's be a pain in the ass to get all bent right but it'd look sweet and give you tons of clearance for the switches.

It's not on my todo list but it's probable something like that could be worked in.  :dunno

@PL1

Well... I managed to get my wife pregnant in under a year and we weren't even trying. Took her ex-husband ten years before...

Oh...

They should be 5/8"

PL1

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Re: drilling on end grain
« Reply #13 on: September 08, 2012, 03:11:29 am »
Have you considered using 3/4" copper for the tunnel?

Two "T"-shaped cuts with a dremel cutoff wheel and a little bending gives you two mounting tabs.

Shouldn't be too hard to cut a notch for the LED and a slot for a wire actuator microswitch.




Scott
« Last Edit: September 08, 2012, 03:25:43 am by PL1 »

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Re: drilling on end grain
« Reply #14 on: September 08, 2012, 02:22:02 pm »
Have you considered using 3/4" copper for the tunnel?

Two "T"-shaped cuts with a dremel cutoff wheel and a little bending gives you two mounting tabs.

Shouldn't be too hard to cut a notch for the LED and a slot for a wire actuator microswitch.




Scott

Hhhmmm I have, but not cutting tabs like that. Copper is pretty pricy for either M or L types. Think I can pull it off with EMT pipe? Far cheaper at around $3 for 10' lengths.

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Re: drilling on end grain
« Reply #15 on: September 08, 2012, 08:55:42 pm »
Hhhmmm I have, but not cutting tabs like that. Copper is pretty pricy for either M or L types. Think I can pull it off with EMT pipe? Far cheaper at around $3 for 10' lengths.

Here's the latest from the PL1 Rapid Prototype Labs.

Conduit is harder to cut and bend, but is probably going to be more sturdy.

Inner diameter of .75, outer diameter of .875.

Once you get the ball to hit the switch and cross the bridge, you might want to consider using some rubber coupling joints on the ball returns to minimize the noise/vibration generated.


Scott