Just got a free table saw & miter saw.

[CoryBee]

Was asking around for an old router I could buy cheap and someone offered to take these two saws free.

A table saw and a miter saw.

The table saw is a Craftsman and the miter saw is RIGID brand.

Here is a shot of each, and their run down condition.







I wanted to improve the look of these so here goes

Taping off and painting





Really makes a different painted black I think







I like it a lot so I am going to take apart, clean and paint the Miter saw as well. But that can wait, I am going to get back to building my arcade.

Also, anyone know about adding a blade guard on this thing?

[EvilNuff]

The biggest safety feature that saw is missing is a riving knife.  Personally, as a somewhate serious hobbyist woodworker I wouldn't use any tablesaw without a riving knife like device free or not.  A company called sharkguard makes aftermarket ones for some tablesaws but its unlikely they have one for yours.  Check out a company called MicroJig and their MJ Splitter system.  That's the best possible way I can think of to make that saw safer.

[TopJimmyCooks]

get new blades too.  those look thrashed and will seriously adversely affect your work. 

[CoryBee]

Yes, I have been looking for a splitter since I got it. The micro jig is what i will be going for. Still trying to figure out how to mount the MJ Splitter though.

I am getting a new blade for both saws as well. Thanks.

[kahlid74]

Always good to get something for free and glad to hear you getting the splitter and new blades.

[phyrosis]

blade guard and rivin knife is needed, but other than that looks like a good score...

[Woodshop Flunky]

My dad bought a Craftsman table saw like that when I was a kid... still has it.  He has the same blade he had in the 70s.  Whenever it gets dull he files it sharp again. 

[TopJimmyCooks]

I don't mind throwing a file to an old Krome edge blade -especially a rip or dado blade with a straight chip grind.  I got a stack of them from my Granddad with My 8" Craftsman TS.  They're very thick and hold an edge surprisingly well in this age of carbide. 

In CoryDee's case, hand sharpening those carbide tipped, Alternating tooth bevel combo blades is possible with diamond slipstones but much harder.  Also those blades he had looked like they had significant buildup/resin on the sides indicating they've been hot and sticky.  Rusty too. Very likely to be out of true even if sharpened.   you can buy the same 10" blades new for 15-20 bucks.

my vote: new blades, a splitter, skip the guard.  You can likely still buy the guard for that saw new from Sears, but once you have to remove it a few times for different cuts it's likely to gather dust on a shelf.  *standard disclaimer applies. 

[phyrosis]

call me old fashioned (although i am 28) i beleive in using safety gear to the utmost ability. when you have to remove the guard and such for dado cuts every single time, it reminds you to check the other parts of your machine, here are the steps i follow when using any tool.

1: Safety glasses / face shield
2: ensure no loose clothes
3: quick run through to ensure the tool stand is stable (my garage floor cracked last year)
4: check for loose mounting bolts on both tool stand and the tool mount to stand
5: ensure no dust build up (this goes quick as i clean my tools after every use, but also helps to ensure i did not cover one with dust from another build)
6: blade/bit sharpness check (chipped, dented, bent, dull blades and bits are a leading cause of incident in the work shop)
7: proper tool safety pieces are in place or respectfully placed aside
8: blade/bit is tight in the tool
9: put on my mechanic gloves (they are tight fitting and i love them to prevent splinters, when using my router i do not wear them, when doing close cuts on mitre or table saw i do not wear them, i only wear them when cutting more than 2" of material away)
10: plug in machine (notice this is FAR DOWN my list)
11: test the safety shut off of the machine (this is paranoia, but my lathe safety broke one winter and the third time i used it in the spring i needed that safety shutoff and it didnt work... almost lost my hand, luckily just lost my glove, shirt, and broke my safety glasses when i hit the floor)
12: use the machine, do the planned cuts, nothing else. do not plan on the fly (i found when i plan on the fly i make a slight mistake)
13: turn off machine, unplug
14: use air compressor to dust off the machine, wipe down with a microfibre cloth
15: mark tool use on the tool book (i track hours of use, times turned on, pieces cut - all for my oilling routine, most oil once a year, thats good too...)
16: return any removed safety guards,
17: return to storage place in garage


since i have been following this routine i have yet to be injured or even have a close call in my shop. i dont work angry, tired, or after having even a single beer. i wear full pants at all times, shoes with rubber sole, a Tshirt or tight fitting long sleeve depending on the work i am doing.

i started doing this exact routine after getting a metal shard from a grinding project in my cheek, the lathe incident, and various other small issues that raised my awareness about unsafe shop mentality.

my point here is, you only get one set of hands, protect them please. you only get one set of eyes, losing them would really suck, you only get one life. as much as you may think your being gone wont affect people, tons of people will miss you if you were gone. Be Safe, Have fun,

[CoryBee]

Wow, that is a very detailed list good sir. It is much appreciated, I printed it out just in case. I don't plan on using the saw until I have made room for it in my garage, built a bench around it and gotten a splitter and blade guard. Also like I said new blades for each. This find just allows me to build a nice woodworking bench with proper tools to accent my electronics workbench.

Thanks for the tips! 

[EvilNuff]

...Still trying to figure out how to mount the MJ Splitter though....

http://www.thewoodwhisperer.com/videos/microjig-mj-splitter/

[CoryBee]

http://www.thewoodwhisperer.com/videos/microjig-mj-splitter/

[/quote]

Thanks for that link, but do I need to modify my insert then?

Don't see any holes on mine for where to mount this thing.

[CoryBee]

Hmm, I think I get it. I use their kit to modify the insert myself...hmmm

[EvilNuff]

Oh no you cannot use that insert you need a zero clearance insert so you would make that.  Basically just create a copy of your insert out of wood, put in the saw and move the fence over the wide part of the insert but NOT the blade.  Turn on the blade and very slowly, carefully raise the blade to cut a hole in the insert to make a zero clearance one.  Wait until you get the new blade of course.

[CoryBee]

Oh no you cannot use that insert you need a zero clearance insert so you would make that.  Basically just create a copy of your insert out of wood, put in the saw and move the fence over the wide part of the insert but NOT the blade.  Turn on the blade and very slowly, carefully raise the blade to cut a hole in the insert to make a zero clearance one.  Wait until you get the new blade of course.

I have to create my own insert now.....damn it

I saw one being made on youtubes, didn't look hard but not a fun process either.

You sure I can't just drill into the one I have now??

[TopJimmyCooks]

You don't HAVE to.  I would consider getting a new blade, and making a few cuts with the crappy wide slot insert that came with the saw.  Think about how small cutoffs will fall into the slot next to the blade.  make a decision for yourself whether you will be happy with the safety and comfort level.  If you do decide to go with a new insert- making one yourself is a great early/learning shop project.  And you can put on the MJ splitter which I agree with Evil is one of the best options for retrofitting to a non-splitter saw. 

[GregD]

I will also recommend the microjig splitter.  Make a zero clearance insert for it out of oak or ash.  It will work like a charm.  It looks like a direct drive saw from the pics but if it isn't then I would recommend putting a powerlink belt on it.  Just do your best to calibrate it properly.  I doubt it has adjustable trunions so the calibration will all have to be done with the fence.

[CoryBee]

Thanks for the information guys, anyone know how I attach this thing? 

The person I got the table saw from said that this blade guard goes to this saw, but I don't see it.....





There is also this thing she says goes to it - 



Thanks again guys, I'd buy you a beer and a sandwich if you lived close to me 

[TopJimmyCooks]

Theres probably a sheet metal or cast iron thing that holds the motor and blade, under the tabletop.  this is referred to as the blade trunnion on belt drive saws.  I think you have a direct drive saw, don't know what it's called in that case.   You can see it by looking down under the blade insert plate.  look for two tapped screw holes in that piece on the back of the blade.  They go with the hook shaped slots and allow the guard to come up behind and over the blade.  Also, check your model # online, most sears/emerson saws have manuals available.  you'll probably have to get a couple of machine screws. 

The other sheet metal piece is a second table wing like the one you have installed, to go on the left side of the blade/table.  your fence rails are set way to the right, to extend the right rip capacity beyond what's probably a good idea on that saw.  I would look at the holes in the cast tabletop piece and see if there are additional holes that would allow the fence rails to be reinstalled further right.  Then, they could support your extra wing.  nice for supporting wider workpieces. 

[EvilNuff]

I have to create my own insert now.....damn it

I saw one being made on youtubes, didn't look hard but not a fun process either.

You sure I can't just drill into the one I have now??

The table saw can be an incredibly dangerous piece of machinery.  A zero clearance insert alone is a safety feature that is well worth the small amount of time and effort to create one.  Honestly, I said it before and I will say it again.  Personally, I would never use that saw even with a ZCI and microjig splitter.  I had a similar one offered to me free and turned it down opting instead to buy one that I felt more comfortable with from a safety standpoint.

Edit: Maybe a better way to phrase my opinion is just using that saw in the first place is riskier than I would personally be willing to go.  You are asking how many other safety risks you can skip when you are already past my personal boundary.  That's like me saying "I wouldn't drive over 30 mph on that road" and you saying "I'm already going 55, would 65 be much worse?"

[CoryBee]

Thanks for all the input guys, I really appreciate the help. I have decided to get rid of the thing, a pity as I just painted it  . But nothing is above safety so it doesn't bother me too much. I have enough tools as of now to get the little things I do done. Using a rip board\saw guide I get very clean decent cuts and is much safer. If I feel I am really in need of a table saw I will throw down money for a decent one.

Thanks again everybody!

[Woodshop Flunky]

I have decided to get rid of the thing, a pity as I just painted it  . But nothing is above safety so it doesn't bother me too much.

Have you actually cut anything with it yet?  I know table saws can be dangerous, but the horror stories don't apply to every situation.

Cutting MDF, particle board, or plywood is NOTHING like cutting rough wood.  Cutting green wood is not like cutting dried wood.

The splitter keeps the wood from pinching the back side of the blade.  If the wood pinches the back of the blade, then the upward and forward thrust of the blade will throw the wood at you at dangerous velocity.  If you push a 5/4 piece of green pine through... it is going to behave very differently than pushing a 3/4 piece of MDF.

I don't recommend dismissing safety features at ALL!  But... not all dangers are the same.

...just my 2cents (which is actually worth less than that) 

[TopJimmyCooks]

Hear, hear.
 

[Mental]

I had pretty near the same saw given to me (20yr old delta) and threw it in the garbage after using it once. The word 'safe' just doesn't belong in any sentence associated with it. You can buy that saw new for $150 and even then I wouldn't trust it. It's not worth the risk.