Nora's Neo-Geo MVS Mini (5/12/14 UPDATE)

[CWorley]

My next project is set.  I know, I technically haven't finished my first one yet, but I'm only in the planning stages for this one.  I'll be building miniature stand up cab based on the Neo-Geo MVS Mini, but styled for my young daughter.  I'm going for a combination of jeffhlewis' Neo-Geo MVS Mini and javeryh's Bella's Arcade.  Here are the links to those two projects:

jeffhlewis' Neo-Geo MVS Mini
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=81845.0

javeryh's Bella's Arcade
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=59828.0

Flinkly and jeffhlewis have both helped me out with cab dimensions.

When I say styled for my daughter, I mean I'll be changing the color, using an original marquee playing off the regular ones, and adjusting the control panel.  Even with these changes, there won't be any doubt what kind of cab this is.  I've included a sketch of the side panel so you can get an idea of what dimensions I'll be using.  The cab will be about 55" tall, 19.5" wide, and 27.25" deep from the front of the control panel.  I've also included some very rough pics of the side art, control panel, and marquee.  I'll definitely be enlisting some help with the art since I by know means know what I'm doing.  I plan to keep the side art simple with just the three logos.  The marquee will play off a 4 game mvs marquee, but instead of 4 games, there will be four letters spelling out NORA, my daughter.  The control panel will be changed for only 1 player.  I plan to keep it much like the original, but with a different color.  I know a lot of people associate Neo-Geo cabs with the red color, but this will be going in my daughter's room and needs to look like it belongs...  And approved by my wife.

I plan on using a 20" lcd (horizontally)and am currently looking for a used/refurbished Dell 2001fp, Dell 2007fp, or HP L2065.

I'm thinking I'll add a port to connect a controller in case two people would like to play.  I'd rather do that than add width to the control panel.  I've though about finding an original Neo-Geo controller, but I'm not sure if there is an adapter out there to connect to a usb port.  I'm planning on using a Zippyy long shaft joystick with the restrictor plate removed (used and recommended by Knievel in his NHL bartops).  So yes, I will be using a ball top instead of the usual Neo-Geo bat top.

3/4" and 1/2" mdf will be the building material of choice.

As I'm still in the planning stages of this project, any advice/thoughts would be highly appreciated.  And if anyone wants to take a stab at the marquee, I wouldn't complain.  I'd like to use purple, blue, green, and white as the colors for the cab.  And there will be black obviously with the control panel, monitor bezel, and speaker shelf.

Hope to get this started sometime next month.

Cheers!

[GregD]

I am not sure what their shipping rates are since I have always just picked from them but they always have 2000fp's and 2007fp's for really good prices.  Sometimes they have the 2001fp's as well.


http://www.bmius.com/c-40-computer-monitors.aspx

[CWorley]

I am not sure what their shipping rates are since I have always just picked from them but they always have 2000fp's and 2007fp's for really good prices.  Sometimes they have the 2001fp's as well.


http://www.bmius.com/c-40-computer-monitors.aspx

Thanks GregD!  It looks like shipping is in the $30+ range.  That would still be a good price for a 2007fp, but I'm hoping to pay a little less via Ebay for a 2001fp.

[CWorley]

Tough crowd...

Nobody cares until there's sawdust and pictures?

Not fans of the color purple?

Anybody else have some thoughts?

[Le Chuck]

Worley, your CP is nice.  The violet makes it for me.  I dig.  The Marquee has gotsta go.  Not digging it at all.  You're doing an SNK machine, how bout some awesome female SNK superstars like those gals from Metal Slug or those girls from Waku Waku.  I think the 3/4 scale Neo will be great, I've been leaning towards that for my boys.     

When you make us dl pdfs to look at stuff you don't get as many replies because we are all lazy.  I like you and called you names in my head because I had to click to see pics.  Well, not like you like you, but I liked your last build so I gave you the benefit of the...

just got awkward in here didn't it?  I should really learn to stop typing.

[knohbody]

There's a smaller Neo Geo cabinet than the "Big Red" most everyone remembers.
The MVS-2-13 or Neo Mini... which is hard to search for on google now because everyone's making "mini" cabinets. I think the dimensions are around the same as what you're planning on building. Might want to take some time to find some pictures for inspiration. Of note is that the control panel was not much wider than yours, and they had a two player setup. if you find dimensions for one, let me know.
If you're planning on using a neo geo controller... there's no encoder in the controller.. the db-15 port it uses is wired straight to the buttons, so you can use a db-15 connector and any usb encoder to make it usb.

[CWorley]

I'm still on the fence about widening the control panel for a second set of controls.  Does anybody know how many Neo-Geo games use all 4 buttons?  If a majority only use 3, I would only have to increase the cp to 20 inches wide.

I'm open to other ideas for the marquee.  If I use any female characters, they have to be "kid friendly".  I would like to include Nora's name though and probably stick with original Neo-Geo marquee look.

[Le Chuck]

Little girl, violet rabbit thing... can't get much more girly than that

[CWorley]

Found a 20" Dell 2001fp today on Ebay for a decent price.

The little girl with the rabbit thing would work.  Now how do they fit into a Neo-Geo type marquee?

As you can see, Le Chuck, I'm subtly having you do all the artistic work for me without directly asking you...

[CWorley]

Decided that I'll be going with only 1 joystick and set of buttons.  That way I can keep the width proportional to the rest of the cab and the control panel won't be cluttered.  I'll definitely add a port for a controller in the case that two people want to play simultaneously.

I'm planning on the width of the control panel to be 18.5", so the cab will be 20" wide with the side panels.

[Le Chuck]

Decided that I'll be going with only 1 joystick and set of buttons.  That way I can keep the width proportional to the rest of the cab and the control panel won't be cluttered.  I'll definitely add a port for a controller in the case that two people want to play simultaneously.

I'm planning on the width of the control panel to be 18.5", so the cab will be 20" wide with the side panels.

I'll take that into account as I pretend to not be designing your marquee. 

[knohbody]

I made this real quick if your interested. LeChuck, I have the vector file available if you want to use it in your hypothetical marquee.
Edit: forgot the picture 

nora by knohbody, on Flickr

[CWorley]

I've attached some very rough sketches of the inside supports+.

Cheers!

[CWorley]

Here is a rough draft of the control panel overlay:


What do you guys think?  The joystick and "ABCD" buttons aren't placed exactly right yet.

If you're wondering, the reason there is a start button for another player is that I'm including a port to hook up a Neo Geo controller.

I'm trying to decide where to add a coin button.  My immediate thought is to the left or right of the menu button.  Any suggestions?  

Cheers!

[BadMouth]

Looks nice and clean.
What are you going to put where the digital coin displays are?

If nothing, you could flush mount a red rectangular gambling machine button there for coins.
The standard ones are pretty big. 
Happ sells small ones under "VLT buttons" (video lottery terminal), but they aren't cheap.
They all can be taken apart and a label inserted.

[CWorley]

That's a really good idea BadMouth.  I'm gonna look for some red rectangle buttons.  Then I'll swap the insert to a coin one.

What about these:
http://www.amazon.com/Amico-Square-Button-Momentary-Switch/dp/B0081OOH92

Or something like this?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/2x-Momentary-Red-Rectangle-Cap-SPDT-Push-Button-Switch-AC-250V-5A-/280921313922#vi-content

A few more...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Arcade-Video-Game-Push-Square-Buttons-Switch-Lamp-LED-/110905833964?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item19d280b9ec

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Arcade-Video-Game-DJ-Rectangle-Rectangular-Push-Button-LED-Lighted-Switch-Lamp-/110906628426?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item19d28cd94a

[BadMouth]

What about these:
http://www.amazon.com/Amico-Square-Button-Momentary-Switch/dp/B0081OOH92

Those would work if the 1" size isn't too big to fit into your artwork.  
There are similar ones on fleabay cheaper if you don't mind waiting for it to arrive from Hong Kong.

Divemaster (a member here) has some listed on his website that look promising, but it doesn't give dimensions.
http://www.arcadeemulator.net/cgi-bin/shop/cp-app.cgi?usr=51F33058&rnd=2506220&rrc=N&affl=&cip=&act=&aff=&pg=prod&ref=Small+Square+Pushbutton&cat=Low+Profile+Illuminated&catstr=HOME:Pushbuttons:Low+Profile+Illuminated
He's good to work with, but this is a side-job for him, so he may take a day to reply to emails and a few days to ship.
(he has a thread stickied in the buy/sell/trade forum if you'd rather PM him here)

It's a little more of a PITA, but I think it would be worth flush-mounting them.
Just cut a square hole a little smaller than the bezel and put the spacer on the underside of the CP instead of the top.
(you'll see how they go together when you get them)

On buttons in my driving cab, the inserts are just printed out on an inkjet printer on regular paper.
They look decent, but next time around I'll probably have Pongo cut out vinyl decals instead.
What gives them away is the backlighting makes the fibers in the paper visible.
You wouldn't have that problem if not backlighting them.  Could also give photo paper a try.

EDIT:   you were adding more options to your post as I was writing mine.
I was originally thinking rectangular, but if you have to use the full size ones, squares might not look as gigantic next to the start buttons.

[PL1]

Divemaster (a member here) has some listed on his website that look promising, but it doesn't give dimensions.
http://www.arcadeemulator.net/cgi-bin/shop/cp-app.cgi?usr=51F33058&rnd=2506220&rrc=N&affl=&cip=&act=&aff=&pg=prod&ref=Small+Square+Pushbutton&cat=Low+Profile+Illuminated&catstr=HOME:Pushbuttons:Low+Profile+Illuminated
. . .
On buttons in my driving cab, the inserts are just printed out on an inkjet printer on regular paper.
They look decent, but next time around I'll probably have Pongo cut out vinyl decals instead.
What gives them away is the backlighting makes the fibers in the paper visible.
You wouldn't have that problem if not backlighting them.  Could also give photo paper a try.

When you're looking at DM's site and want to know dimensions, open the Suzo-Happ page in another tab and use that to find details.

http://na.suzohapp.com/pushbuttons/5700044x.htm

Not sure which LEDs you'll want with these. (They come with 14v #161 bulbs.)

For inserts, try printing on Inkjet Transparency media. 

http://www.amazon.com/Transparency-Inkjet-Printers-Sheets-Sample/dp/B006GVYQUW

Protip: If you print a picture like, for example, a quarter for your inserts, make it about twice as dark as when it looks normal on the screen and print several shades.  After printing, if you make a clean horizontal cut below your inserts, you can use the remaining media for reprints.


Scott

[CWorley]

Thanks for the input, guys!

I think going with a square button will definitely work better due to the smaller size.  The squares will already be slightly bigger than the start buttons.

I don't think I'll have to change the art much at all beyond widening the white section for each coin button.

I think I'm going to go with the low profile small squares that Divemaster offers.  I was going to order some Gold Leafs from him for my action buttons anyway.

[Yvan256]

The profile is 100% MVS, that's for sure. The color did put me off at first, I'm not sure why you're not going with the regular MVS red? Or maybe go with pink instead of violet, so it's still in the same "visual range" as the MVS? Or maybe your daughter prefers violet?  

Worley, your CP is nice.  The violet makes it for me.  I dig.  The Marquee has gotsta go.  Not digging it at all.  You're doing an SNK machine, how bout some awesome female SNK superstars like those gals from Metal Slug or those girls from Waku Waku.

I also agree on the marquee, going with SNK girls would be a better choice. Or if your daughter has Neo-Geo games that she likes, just go with her preferred characters from those games?

[CWorley]

The profile is 100% MVS, that's for sure. The color did put me off at first, I'm not sure why you're not going with the regular MVS red? Or maybe go with pink instead of violet, so it's still in the same "visual range" as the MVS? Or maybe your girl prefers violet? 

My wife prefers violet...

[CWorley]

As far as the player start buttons and menu button, should I go with just straight white buttons?

Or typical player 1 and player II buttons (with the stick figures) and just plain white for menu?

Any suggestions?

[BadMouth]

As far as the player start buttons and menu button, should I go with just straight white buttons?

Or typical player 1 and player II buttons (with the stick figures) and just plain white for menu?

Any suggestions?

I think the stick figures would be redundant since there is a label on the CP art.

Not sure about the color.  Purple ones would be cool if they matched the CP color.
Short of that, I'd stick with plain white.
Just my $.02 

[Seith]

I am loving all these alternate colorways of the classic Neo Geo cabs.  Will there be seven-segment displays for Player 1 and 2 as well?  It would be really cool if you got those in a violet hue. 

Perhaps something from this page?

http://www.alibaba.com/showroom/seven-segment-display.html

[CWorley]

I am loving all these alternate colorways of the classic Neo Geo cabs.  Will there be seven-segment displays for Player 1 and 2 as well?  It would be really cool if you got those in a violet hue. 

Perhaps something from this page?

http://www.alibaba.com/showroom/seven-segment-display.html

While having the seven-segment displays would be cool, I wouldn't know where to start to get those things to work.  I also like the idea of using square red illuminated buttons for coin buttons instead.  They'll be more functional and give a nod to the original look of the cabinet.

[CWorley]

After looking at the dimensions of Divemaster's red square buttons (below) and fitting them into my CP, they look too big and out of place.

http://www.arcadeemulator.net/cgi-bin/shop/cp-app.cgi?usr=51F9348970&rnd=2268464&rrc=N&affl=&cip=&act=&aff=&pg=prod&ref=Small+Square+Pushbutton&cat=Low+Profile+Illuminated&catstr=HOME:Pushbuttons:Low+Profile+Illuminated

I came upon these at arcadeshop.de

http://www.arcadeshop.de/Illum-Buttons-Pushbutton-lit-26x26-red_465.html

They're a 1/2 inch smaller which fits a lot better.  The only issue is I'd have to route the mounting area down to a little under 3/8".  They're made for metal panels, but if I remove the spacer I get some flex.  Will mdf be strong enough at that thickness?

[PL1]

The only issue is I'd have to route the mounting area down to a little under 3/8".  They're made for metal panels, but if I remove the spacer I get some flex.  Will mdf be strong enough at that thickness?

3/8" MDF will definitely be strong enough for a button.


Scott

[BadMouth]

I came upon these at arcadeshop.de

http://www.arcadeshop.de/Illum-Buttons-Pushbutton-lit-26x26-red_465.html

Holy Crap!  Those look exactly the same as the VLT buttons that hap sells for $10 each!
I know because I bought four.  
http://na.suzohapp.com/pushbuttons/poker.htm
(the part number didn't come up as a valid happ number for Divemaster, so I had to order them from Happ)
They are nice buttons.  I replaced the bulbs with colored LEDs and they look awesome.
I wouldn't worry too much about the thickness.
  
Those are what I originally pictured when I mentioned the idea.

[CWorley]

I've attached what I think will be the final draft of the control panel overlay.  The start and menu buttons will be white GoldLeafs with the action buttons being the standard red, yellow, green and blue (GoldLeafs).  And then the coin buttons will be the aformentioned square red ones from arcadeshop.de.  The joystick will be a Zippyy long shaft with SmoothJoy switches and a violet ball top.

Any thoughts, concerns, objections?

[Le Chuck]

Unless the violet is a spot match for the CPO color I'd go with white on the balltop.  Looking good man!

[CWorley]

Unless the violet is a spot match for the CPO color I'd go with white on the balltop.  Looking good man!

Good idea.  White will probably work better.

[BadMouth]

I'd ditch the Æ on the NEO GEO logo.

I'll probably leave the ® on mine, but the Æ on your draws the eye to it because the space between it and the black button outline is so narrow.

[CWorley]

I'd ditch the Æ on the NEO GEO logo.

I'll probably leave the ® on mine, but the Æ on your draws the eye to it because the space between it and the black button outline is so narrow.

Done.  Thanks!

[CWorley]

Here are some pics of some of the pieces I've acquired for the cab:

20" Dell 2001fp LCD


Neo Geo Controller


Aformentioned small square pushbuttons from arcadeshop.de


2.1 Speakers

[ccmathome]

I really like these mini cabs I've been toying with the idea of making a mini galaga for my 60-in-1 board. Good luck on your build

Sent from my SCH-M828C using Tapatalk 2

[Unstupid]

I'd lose the player 2 start button because there is only one joystick on your CP...  and if you are playing with someone who is pluggeed in there is already a start button on the control pad

[CWorley]

I'd lose the player 2 start button because there is only one joystick on your CP...  and if you are playing with someone who is pluggeed in there is already a start button on the control pad

I'll consider that. I like the balance of having the right player start button and coin button on the CP though.  But I'll take a look of what it would look like without them.  It's also much cooler to push an arcade pushbutton then a controller start button...

[Unstupid]

Since player 2 is using a control pad he is not pressing arcade buttons anyways.  Also  ecaause he is using a control pad he could also stand on the left side of player 1.  And for this reason I would also consider calling it player 1 and player 2 instead of left player and right player.  Also if you are playing a shump like strikers 1945 where you are constantly hitting the start and coin buttons it's easier to hit the buttons on the pad than to reach down to the CP.  if you want balance you could move the menu button to the right and move he coin button to the middle, but it would look fine even if it wasn't balanced .  What do you need a menu button for anyways? 

[BadMouth]

MY $.02 - I like it as it is.  It just looks right, even if the buttons on the right are never used.

[CWorley]

What would be the best way to create a clean looking controller port for the Neo Geo controller?

I would need to add a male db-15 connector to the cab and wire that straight to the encoder, correct?

[PL1]

You can wire it directly to the encoder.

This page shows the pinout at the bottom and has the controller schematic, too.

Here is a Neo-Geo extender cable that might work well for you.


Scott

[CWorley]

You can wire it directly to the encoder.

This page shows the pinout at the bottom and has the controller schematic, too.

Here is a Neo-Geo extender cable that might work well for you.


Scott

That extender cable should work great.  Thanks!  Now the question is how do I mount it on the cab so that it looks nice and clean?

[PL1]

That extender cable should work great.  Thanks!  Now the question is how do I mount it on the cab so that it looks nice and clean?

Do you know where on the cab you want the connector to be?

Method#1 -
Get a strain relief boot the size of the cable.

Drill the proper size hole through the panel.
Push boot through from inside.
Feed cable through boot from outside until connector is snug against it.
Securely tighten several zip ties around the cable and against the inside of the panel to keep the cable from pulling back out.

Method #2 - embed connector body in panel
Drill a hole large enough for the cable and widen it enough to wedge the connector in place.  (Put a clamp on the back to keep it from pulling forward)

Flat sides before the taper appear to be around .6" long, so you might want to leave it sticking out a bit.

.     |         |
.   -------------
.   |              |
.   |              |------------
.   \              /   panel
.     \           /-------------
.       \       /      clamp 
.         ----     
.         |  |


Scott

[CWorley]

Thanks Scott!  I'm definitely interested in doing something more like method#1.

Right now, I'm thinking the connector will either go on the right side of the front panel near the top or on the side of the cab by the control panel.

[PL1]

Thanks Scott!  I'm definitely interested in doing something more like method#1.

Right now, I'm thinking the connector will either go on the right side of the front panel near the top or on the side of the cab by the control panel.

Looking closer at your cab plans, it occurred to me that you might be able to use method #1 to come out the back (maybe on the 45 degree inset?) and have a couple of hooks to hang the controller on when not in use.  Add two velcro cable wraps -- 1 on the extender cable and one on the controller cable -- to keep the controller from unplugging  accidently.




Scott

[CWorley]

Received some more parts the other day from divemaster:

GoldLeaf Pushbuttons


Coin Door


Cheers!

[CWorley]

Construction has begun...


Cheers!

[CWorley]

Side panels cut...


Cheers!

[Yvan256]

Side panels cut...

The Neo-Geo profile really is a classic! 

[CWorley]

What do you guys think?  Black or white for the joystick ball top?

[Le Chuck]

What do you guys think?  Black or white for the joystick ball top?

White! 

[Yvan256]

What do you guys think?  Black or white for the joystick ball top?

Neo-Geo had black bat tops. 

[Unstupid]

I'd vote for bat tops in whatever color you are going to use for your t-molding... 

[CWorley]

:::UPDATE:::

T-molding slots have been cut...


Cheers!

[CWorley]

The base for the cabinet has been completed.


Most of the support pieces have also been put into place.  Still need to decide the best way to mount the monitor.  The two support pieces by the marquee area also need to be modified.



Cheers!

[CWorley]

More progress being made...









Cheers!

[CWorley]

I have a few questions for you guys:

First, I'm planning on purchasing a GGG NovaMatrix for the marquee.  Is the "standard" set of 6 (18 LEDs) enough to light my 18.5" x 6" marquee?

Second, what do you guys think about corner protectors for the front bottom corner of cabinets?  I've seen a lot of Neo Geo cabinets with them.


Finally, any thoughts on the progress so far?  Do you guys see any red flags in the construction?

Cheers!

[BadMouth]

First, I'm planning on purchasing a GGG NovaMatrix for the marquee.  Is the "standard" set of 6 (18 LEDs) enough to light my 18.5" x 6" marquee?

It will be plenty.  I'm using one to light a 30.5 x 4.5" marquee.

Second, what do you guys think about corner protectors for the front bottom corner of cabinets?  I've seen a lot of Neo Geo cabinets with them.

I think it will look better without them, especially since the cab is scaled down and the protectors won't be.
However, if you think the front corners might get damaged by a vacuum cleaner or toys banging against them, definitely include them.
(of course you can always add them to hide the damage after it has happened)
I thought hard about them for my current build, but I needed them on the back since my corners were getting mushroomed by laying the cab back to work on it.
All the ones I've seen were on the front through, so decided against it.

Finally, any thoughts on the progress so far?  Do you guys see any red flags in the construction?

Looking good to me.  Especially that you angled the framing in the marquee area to avoid shadows. 

[CWorley]

Regarding fans/airflow, my initial plan was to put two 120mm fans w/ dust filters on the bottom of the cab blowing up for intake and two 120mm fans on the top/slanted back of the cab for outtake.

Is that too much?  Should I go with just one intake and one outtake?

What do you guys think?

Thanks!

[BadMouth]

Way too much.

On my current build, I have two 120mm fans in the bottom and another one on the cpu cooler.
It feels like a friggin house fan.  I plan to add a fan controller to slow them down.

A single fan at the top would probably be enough.

I put the fans on the bottom because the back of my cab sits flush with the wall.
Not sure I've seen it done that way before and there's probably a reason. 

The bottom of yours won't be against the wall, so why not put the vent on the bottom of the back?

[CWorley]

Way too much.

On my current build, I have two 120mm fans in the bottom and another one on the cpu cooler.
It feels like a friggin house fan.  I plan to add a fan controller to slow them down.

A single fan at the top would probably be enough.

I put the fans on the bottom because the back of my cab sits flush with the wall.
Not sure I've seen it done that way before and there's probably a reason. 

The bottom of yours won't be against the wall, so why not put the vent on the bottom of the back?

:::UPDATE::

Sorry, read that wrong the first time around.  Putting the fan at the bottom of the back is a possibility.  I like the idea of putting it in the bottom base because then it blows up through the cab.

[PL1]

I put the fans on the bottom because the back of my cab sits flush with the wall.
Not sure I've seen it done that way before and there's probably a reason. 

The main reason that comes to mind is that you'll probably pick up a lot more dust.

Also makes cleaning dust bunnies off an intake filter a real pain.   


Scott

[CWorley]

Alright, I'll definitley just go with one outtake fan then on the top incline.

Is an intake fan needed?

This isn't a full upright, but it's not a small bartop either.

[eds1275]

Random question. Is your daughter's name Nora because you are a huge batman fan and that's Mr. Freeze's wife's' name? If so, how long could you hide it before your wife found out?

[BadMouth]

Alright, I'll definitley just go with one outtake fan then on the top incline.

Is an intake fan needed?

This isn't a full upright, but it's not a small bartop either.

I don't think it's needed as long as the thing isn't full of leaks that will prevent air from being sucked in from the lower vent.
Heat rises, so even if the cab is leaky, the heat will go to the top and be removed by the exhaust fan.
On the other hand, it's not going to hurt anything and would be extra insurance to have it.
 
I put a single 80mm fan in the top and a long, large vent in the bottom of a 3/4 scale pacman style cabinet that I built for my nephew last year. 

[CWorley]

Random question. Is your daughter's name Nora because you are a huge batman fan and that's Mr. Freeze's wife's' name? If so, how long could you hide it before your wife found out?

Sorry, this isn't the case.  While I do consider myself a Batman fan, I don't care much for Mr. Freeze.  Going with 'Nora' was my idea, but there's no interesting (geeky) story behind it.  For all you George R. R. Martin fans, we did consider 'Arya' though.

[CWorley]

The top/back panel is cut with holes for an exhaust fan and power button.



Cheers!

[CWorley]

Trying to decide if should go with black or white t-molding.  What do you guys think?

Also, what do you guys think about adding a kick plate?

[TPA5]

Trying to decide if should go with black or white t-molding.  What do you guys think?

Also, what do you guys think about adding a kick plate?

I lurk mostly and don't know jack about arcade builds...But I'm a sucker for white t molding. It looks super good in my opinion.

[Unstupid]

T-Molding matches your joysticks....  What color are your joysticks?

[BadMouth]

T-Molding matches your joysticks....  What color are your joysticks?

I never thought about it that way.....you're absolutely right!

[CWorley]

Well, the joystick ball top will be white, so there ya go.  White it is!

Any thoughts on a kick plate?

[CWorley]

The monitor is now mounted...


What do you guys think about the location of the monitor (height/depth)?

Cheers!

[Unstupid]

Hard to tell cause your speaker panel and control panel are not there, but I would have put them in the middle of them.  That way you bezel is even on the top and bottom. 

[CWorley]

Hard to tell cause your speaker panel and control panel are not there, but I would have put them in the middle of them.  That way you bezel is even on the top and bottom. 

Ended up raising the monitor about an inch.  The bezel will be a little bit bigger on top than on the bottom, but I don't think it'll be that noticable.  The whole bezel itself will be really thin due to the screen taking up almost the entire space.  I'll be using tinted grey glass which will make it even less noticable.

Cheers!

[Woodshop Flunky]

Just stumbled onto your build.  Looking really great.  Love this style cab. 

[CWorley]

Just stumbled onto your build.  Looking really great.  Love this style cab. 

Thanks Woodshop!  Your American Ace cab definitely helped set the idea for this cab in motion.

[CWorley]

This is the current state of the cab.  Here you can see the mount for the lcd monitor.


Working on the speaker shelf, bezel, and back panels at the moment.

Cheers!

[CWorley]

Slowly but surely...

I've attached some pics of the speaker shelf.  The width of the shelf will need to be trimmed down later.







Will be working on the bezel and control panel next.

Cheers!

[CWorley]

Progress has been slow lately because the work room is not heated and it's cold in Wisconsin.

Here are some pictures of how the connector for the Neo Geo controller will be held in place:







This panel is not cut to size yet, but it will be at the bottom of the back of the cabinet.  It will have the controller connector, an intake fan, and the outlet for the power cord.

Cheers!

[mcseforsale]

Subscribed...


AJ (huge violet and black fan).

[eds1275]

I know from experience how hard it is to cut out those damn VGA holes!!!

[CWorley]

I know from experience how hard it is to cut out those damn VGA holes!!!

With the hole not being perfect, what would be the best way to clean that up?

[mcseforsale]

Use a file with a rounded end.  Just oversize it equally around the VGA. 

AJ

[Yvan256]

It would be easier to just use a panel mount connector such as this one.

It's a regular DA15 connector, not VGA.

[CWorley]

It would be easier to just use a panel mount connector such as this one.

It's a regular DA15 connector, not VGA.

Yep, picked one up.

[CWorley]

Here is the current state of the cabinet:


With a few warms days in a row, finally got some time to start on the bezel and control panel.

Cheers!

[Yvan256]

Here is the current state of the cabinet:


With a few warms days in a row, finally got some time to start on the bezel and control panel.

Cheers!

Nice progress, can't wait to see it completed!

Considering it was the most powerful arcade machine in its days, it's kind of sad to see so few MVS projects, emulated or not.

[CWorley]

Current pic without rough control panel:


Cheers!

[CWorley]

Front edges of control panel have been rounded.  Next up is drilling the holes for the joystick and pushbuttons.







Cheers!

[Woodshop Flunky]

This is looking great!

You're going to have an awesome little cab. 

[CWorley]

Received the CP overlay from Game On Grafix:



Cheers!

[CWorley]

Some goodies from Groovy Game Gear:


Cheers!

[CWorley]

The control panel has been drilled.  Here are a few pics:





Cheers!

[CWorley]

The control panel has now been primed and covered in the Parts Express black matte vinyl.  Here are some pics...





Cheers!

[CWorley]

Couldn't resist...




The art overlay will hopefully go on soon.

Cheers!

[Yvan256]

I love the idea of the red square buttons to replicate the look of the 7-segment credit displays.

[CWorley]

Applied the control panel art from GoG...




Cheers!

[CWorley]

And with the controls...




Cheers!

[sabreerbasAlpha]

Looks sweet with the white ball top. Defiantly the way to go. 

[CWorley]

I love the idea of the red square buttons to replicate the look of the 7-segment credit displays.

Thanks!  Now I just have to get some coin/quarter inserts in there.

Cheers!

[CWorley]

Looks sweet with the white ball top. Defiantly the way to go. 

I was hesitant about going with the white ball top, but those around here that recommended it were spot on.  Definitely the right choice.

Cheers!

[CWorley]

I wondering what color I should paint the top and top-slant (where the exhaust fan and power button are) of the cabinet?  The back and any visible inside piece will be black with the sides and front being violet.  Typical Neo Geo cabinets have the area in question black.

This area is usually not visible, but since the cabinet is smaller it will be.  Thought I'd maybe paint it violet.

Any thoughts would be appreciated.

Thanks!

[BadMouth]

I've missed some updates.....

That CP looks sweet!
If you want to make inserts for the coin buttons, clear avery inkjet labels applied to the current inserts work pretty good.
http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_1?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=clear%20inkjet%20labels&sprefix=clear+ink%2Caps&rh=i%3Aaps%2Ck%3Aclear%20inkjet%20labels
(I use the full sheets)

I think the top and back would look good either color, but if you paint it violet, the inside edge of the side pieces still needs to be black to look right.
That's going to be a lot more work and taping off.  I've had good sharp lines using green "frog tape"(and horrible results with other brands).

[CWorley]

I've missed some updates.....

That CP looks sweet!
If you want to make inserts for the coin buttons, clear avery inkjet labels applied to the current inserts work pretty good.
http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_1?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=clear%20inkjet%20labels&sprefix=clear+ink%2Caps&rh=i%3Aaps%2Ck%3Aclear%20inkjet%20labels
(I use the full sheets)

I think the top and back would look good either color, but if you paint it violet, the inside edge of the side pieces still needs to be black to look right.
That's going to be a lot more work and taping off.  I've had good sharp lines using green "frog tape"(and horrible results with other brands).

Thanks BadMouth!  I'll definitely try your insert idea.

I've decided to keep the two top pieces black like the rest of the back.  Plus, like you said, I won't have to worry about taping the edge off.

[Unstupid]

Black is a good choice!

Hey where did you get your button layout for the A,B,C,D buttons?  I've seen the standard 4 with the A low right and the B,C,D in a straight line.  I've also seen the more angled arc line in the MVS 2-13, but i can't find the layout for the one you are using with the subtle arc...  Is that layout from a cab or did you make that up yourself?

[CWorley]

Black is a good choice!

Hey where did you get your button layout for the A,B,C,D buttons?  I've seen the standard 4 with the A low right and the B,C,D in a straight line.  I've also seen the more angled arc line in the MVS 2-13, but i can't find the layout for the one you are using with the subtle arc...  Is that layout from a cab or did you make that up yourself?

I got the layout from http://www.arcadeartlibrary.com/arcade_art/details.php?image_id=400&mode=search

*I fixed the link.  Thanks PL1.

[CWorley]

The cab has been primed and the black paint is being applied to the back and visible insides.

Here are some current pics:







The violet paint will be going on soon.

Cheers!

[mcseforsale]

AJ

[CWorley]

Violet paint is being applied.  Will need to redo the black inner edges on the front.

A few pics...





Cheers!

[BadMouth]

Those black inner edges drove me nuts on my cab, but it's really necessary to look right.
I've forgotten, are you going with white or black t-molding?

[CWorley]

Those black inner edges drove me nuts on my cab, but it's really necessary to look right.
I've forgotten, are you going with white or black t-molding?

I decided on white t-molding to match the joystick.

[CWorley]

The pictures only show the first coat of violet paint.  I'll post some more pics after a few more coats.

Cheers!

[CWorley]

Finished with the 3rd coat of violet paint.  Still have to paint the two doors for the back along with redoing some of the black edging on the front of the cab.

Here are some pics:







Cheers!

[CoryBee]

I like the way you paint boy

 

[sabreerbasAlpha]

coming on very nicely.. That CP Is mint.!!!!!

[Malenko]

I like the way you paint boy

 

and I appreciate the Django reference.  Looks really good man. doing the inside edged shouldnt be too bad, just buy some frog tape, stuff works wonders.

[CoryBee]

I like the way you paint boy

 

and I appreciate the Django reference.  Looks really good man. doing the inside edged shouldnt be too bad, just buy some frog tape, stuff works wonders.

hehe

Also, tape!!! tape would have made all the difference in those corners.....I wish I would have known that. I will keep that in my mind.

[i64X]

This looks so awesome. Makes me want to rip off all the vinyl on my bartop and replace it with Neo Geo themed stuff. This looks REALLY good.

[CWorley]

Thanks guys! Everything is coming along nicely.

One of my friends is helping me with the marquee.  Here is what he has so far:


My initial thought was to have a marquee resembling the Neo Geo marquees, but now I'm leaning towards having something original, simple, and "kiddy".

Cheers!

[Yvan256]

Thanks guys! Everything is coming along nicely.

One of my friends is helping me with the marquee.  Here is what he has so far:


My initial thought was to have a marquee resembling the Neo Geo marquees, but now I'm leaning towards having something original, simple, and "kiddy".

Cheers!

How about a Neo-Geo MVS style marquee but with obvious "kiddy" elements, such as using a "Felt" font for the text?

[Unstupid]

Thanks guys! Everything is coming along nicely.

One of my friends is helping me with the marquee.  Here is what he has so far:


My initial thought was to have a marquee resembling the Neo Geo marquees, but now I'm leaning towards having something original, simple, and "kiddy".

Cheers!

This cab looks way too nice for that artwork! 

[CWorley]

After sleeping on it, decided the marquee needs to stay true to the Neo Geo theme.  I would like to personalize it a bit though for my daughter.

Suggestions are definitely welcomed.

Cheers!

[BadMouth]

Maybe Nora Geo instead of Neo Geo.
....or a modified version of the Neo Geo Station logo.
....or borrow from one of the newer, more colorful SNK candy cabs, like the Neo 29. (although I'm not sure that works with the CP)
....or a standard marquee in purple with her picture in the "now featuring" window.

You could try to incorporate the faces, but make them cuter.


Just throwing ideas out there.

Just had another thought: cute little bust-a-move dinosaurs....

[CWorley]

Thanks for the suggestions, guys!  I'll definitely play around with these ideas.

Any other thoughts towards the marquee?

[Malenko]

I own a marquee just like the one above, if you want it, I'd donate it to the cause. Other wise the standard 1 or 2 slot marquee in purple that says Nora Geo sounds just about perfect.

[CWorley]

I own a marquee just like the one above, if you want it, I'd donate it to the cause. Other wise the standard 1 or 2 slot marquee in purple that says Nora Geo sounds just about perfect.

Thanks for the offer Malenko, but I think I can come up with something original.

Haven't had a lot of time to work the cab lately, but here's a pic of where it's at right now:



Cheers!

[CWorley]

Here's a pic of the marquee light panel:


Slowly but surely...

Cheers!

[BadMouth]

Glad to see you're still making progress.

[CWorley]

Installing the speaker shelf...







Cheers!

[Unstupid]

Arent those speakers going to cast some shadows on your marquee?  Just curious!

[CoryBee]

Arent those speakers going to cast some shadows on your marquee?  Just curious!

I was thinking the same thing. I get shadows from the ends of 1/4" pieces of wood laying flat, that is definitely going to be a problem with the speakers.

[BadMouth]

You could probably get away with moving the led panel in front of the speakers and putting sanded plexi in front of it to diffuse the light.
If you allowed for fairly thick marquee glass, you could use two pieces of half that thickness with the marquee sandwiched in between and sand the rear one.

[Nephasth]

You could probably get away with moving the led panel in front of the speakers and putting sanded plexi in front of it to diffuse the light.
If you allowed for fairly thick marquee glass, you could use two pieces of half that thickness with the marquee sandwiched in between and sand the rear one.

+1 Great idea! Wish this place had a rep system...

[CWorley]

Thanks for all the comments, guys!

It won't be that hard to move the light panel in front of the the speakers.

I already have my two pieces of clear plastic for the marquee.  They're 1/8" thick.

If I left the protective paper on the back piece of plexi, would that do the trick?  Or do I have to sand it like mentioned?  And what does the thickness of the plexi have to do with it?

Thanks!

[PL1]

Here is another option to consider.




Scott

[BadMouth]

might not cast a shadow if the LEDs were moved to the angled part above the speakers

[CWorley]

might not cast a shadow if the LEDs were moved to the angled part above the speakers

I was thinking the same thing BadMouth.  I'll do some testing once I have the plexi, marquee retainers, and a temporary marquee.

[CWorley]

Back on task after life got in the way for a bit.  Currently installing the pc components into the cab (pics attached).  Hoping to finish this project up this summer.  Not in a hurry though since my daughter is still 2-3 years away from being able to use it anyway.

What's left to do:
- Finish installing pc components and test them out
- Finish any remaining wiring
- Test out marquee light placement on temporary marquee
- Order and put on side and front decals
- Install final marquee
- Finalize software

Cheers!

[Le Chuck]

Glad to see this is getting some action again. I really like this little build 

[brucelee00]

Love the color on this build. Looking forward to seeing it completed

[Malenko]

Glad to see this is getting some action again. I really like this little build 

Love the color on this build. Looking forward to seeing it completed

+1 to both statements. Cant wait to see the finished project!

[CWorley]

Glad to see this is getting some action again. I really like this little build 

Love the color on this build. Looking forward to seeing it completed

+1 to both statements. Cant wait to see the finished project!

Thanks, guys!  I appreciate it.  Updates will probably come slow, but looking to finish by the end of August.

[stigzler]

.... but looking to finish by the end of August.

Shhhhh!!! 

Lovely looking build. I was going to have mine finished by Xmas, 2013.. then end of January, 2014..then yesterday....