I originally was going for something simple like the Xarcade tankstick combined with the xarcade extension cabinet.
http://www.recroommasters.com/x_arcade_p/rm-xt-arc-t.htmBut after reading up on these forums and seeing how only a little more work and money could go from an x arcade i decided to go all out for a custom made 4 player panel, that would accommodate a bigger screen
Im sure everyone is familiar with the products from north west coast productions/mameroom
http://www.mameroom.com/Products_UAII_Kit.aspand
http://www.mameroom.com/Products_Quad_Kit.aspI didnt see any reason the quad panel didnt meet my needs for a 4 player panel. Though it took some routing to get the trackball panel flush mounted. I had to create a template and screw it into the top of the panel and test the depth repeatedly to get it just right. Absolutely worth it though!.
My control panel is pretty much a straight kit build using Groovygamegear components
4 Happ competition sticks
Lots and lots of chromalite buttons
1 true 4 way joystick
Track ball ice 2.5
TurboTwist spinner
1 led wiz (for now)
1 ipac 4
Gameongrafix control panel overlay

The existing 4 holes didnt work with the tru4 way which only had 2 holes rather than 4. I drilled 2 new holes but the joystick was slightly off center. It still had perfect clearance and range of movement but it was driving me crazy so i redrilled new holes horizontally across the hole rather than vertically.

This is my first arcade panel, I think my wiring came out relatively clean/organized. The wires are labeled at the button ends, and on the underside of the panel itself. I had to reinforce the sides/front of the control panel, i didnt like the front only being held on by the cam screws.
The glowing leds that are seemingly going to no where on the underside of the panel are something I came up with that I hadnt seen done in other projects outside of maybe some jukeboxes.
Unfortunately its hard to photograph, but im using 2 extra RGB leds as "ground effect" lighting under the left and right sides of the control panel. Its cool in person, its shared with the trackball RGB.



I couldnt leave a giant hole in the front panel. The sticker from GGG would have been fine if i didnt have the gaping hole to cover. but I got a pretty good deal on ebay for a 4 player coin door


Coin door never originally had any trace of lighting but I didnt let that stop me! where theres leds, 12 volts, and zip ties theres a way!
Ill admit i was inspired by DNA dans rotating monitor project.
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=110471.0 While my setup doesnt have nearly the cool/wow factor as a motorized automatically rotating screen, mine allows for the same setup with a 27 inch 1080p monitor



With the ergotron LX i can pull monitor forward, rotate, and push back into place. There are no adjustments/wingnuts involved its just position and let go.
Its still a work in progress, but I wanted to share my tweaks on the basic kit design of the ultimate arcade, and get feedback on my work and ideas so far.
I still have a few more tricks up my sleeve once I get all the parts. I have the plexi but havent quite figured out what to do about a bezel at the moment.
Update: December 2011 - I wanted to add castor wheels to the bottom, but I didnt like the way the weight of the cabinet relied on the cams on the sides. I raised the bottom panel up into the case, added a new wooden panel underneath and dadoed the sides for the "new" bottom panel to slip into. I screwed/glued the bottom panel to the sides rather than using the cams, and the front door panel/angled back panel still use the cams to hold the sides together.
The bolts that hold the castors to the bottom wooden panel go through the mdf as well. The castor wheels arent visible, and only stick out from the bottom a half inch. I could have lowered it more but I anticipate needing to roll it on carpet. Unfortunately i seem to have lost pictures of the bottom panel before it was fully assembled. I will have to try to take new ones showing the notch/dado as best i can with the pieces in place.



Pictures of the underside to show the dado notch out of the side panels, and the 2x4 reinforcement to the bottom to secure the side panels to the new "bottom" panel. Im aiming to take as much load off the side panels and cams as possible.
The castors have 1/2 inch clearance which should allow it to roll on most carpet without any trouble.