**COMPLETED***Just plain old ARCADE CLASSICS slim w/rotation (Lots of photos!)

[TopJimmyCooks]

You are describing the dimensions and layout I associate with Knievel's cabs.  I like this layout and am drawing from it on a CP I'm building.  I was required by my SO to have a 4 way, and the stick, spin, button, button works great, I like it a lot myself.  There is a good diagram of that layout with dimensions in this thread:

http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=91009.msg955292;topicseen#msg955292

In this layout the three buttons in the top row were coin, start and a mouse button to work with the TB.  I am handling mouse buttons a different way so I am using the 3rd button for P1 for Pause and P2 for Exit game to Mala.  If the exit button becomes a problem I will change it to require a shift key.

The only drawback to this layout is the golden Tee finger jam on the spinner.  I don't play golden tee really.  I chose not to have tab/enter etc. on top of the panel after reading a lot of good input here. 

[DNA Dan]

Thanks for the link. Yeah I thought I read Knievel's CP top finished out about 34" in width. (EDIT CONFIRMED: See reply #131 in this thread http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=55789.120 )

I figured since my cab is about 3-4 inches higher up than his, that I should extend this out to 36". In the little devil build he's at about 32".

I think I need to chop about 4" off the side.   Should be straightforward to make an internal end piece and Kreg it in there.

[TopJimmyCooks]

I think he did 36 on his full sizes and 34 on the woody style cab.  I'm 34" on top and I had to make the 4way/spinner section tighter than I wanted, it's ok though.

I plan to do a build thread but take a look at the attached preview of my cp.  It expands from 24" to 34" when the center section is used.

It is built with putting it on a future slim cab in mind, stoked to see how you turn out. 

[Nephasth]

It expands from 24" to 34" when the center section is used.

Tits.

[TopJimmyCooks]

thanks Nep but I think I thread jacked too much - apologies to DNA Dan and if it distracts from the real topic I'll edit it off.  Got excited to show DNA my idea since we are working along parallel lines on slim, rotating LCD cabs.  On with the program . . .

[DNA Dan]

Not hijacked at all man. It really helps to see how others have done it. I have my admin buttons up below the monitor, so I won't need the top row of buttons. Since my panel is only 12 1/2" deep, I am actually putting the joysticks higher up so I have more rest area for my wrists.

In terms of width, it looks like you still have plenty of room even at 34". Since I don't have a dedicated 4-way, (just a spinner up there) I think I can go 32" on top. May post some pics to see the difference in proportion.

[TopJimmyCooks]

I agree with what you're saying.  Without the admin's and the 4 way to worry about, you are going to have plenty of good real estate.  It's a compromise to get it right between an aircraft carrier and a knuckle buster.  I like a good amount of handrest area.  I was excited about a mini tabletop cocktail for a few days, but by the time i realized what size the CP areas would have to be to be enjoyable to actually play, the whole cab would have been way out of proportion. 

[DNA Dan]

Alrighty Jimmy, I whacked it. Ended up taking off about 3 1/2 inch from the right side. Here are some before and after pics. Before on top, after on bottom. The CP box is now 31" finished width and the top is 32 1/2". This gives about 3/4" overhang on the edges, in the front corners, then curves out to 1 1/2 inch in the middle front.

Hated to have to chop finished work, but eh, once I am done with the cab I am going to have to live with it. Better now than later.

[TopJimmyCooks]

It looked good before and it looks good now.  I think it's an improvement, esp. looking at the slagcoin templates.  At the wider size things were getting a little lost.  FWIW I like more separation between the stick and buttons than slagcoin's templates usually show.  I'm not arcade accurate but about 3/4" more feels better to me.  Good move to keep the front curve, looks better than straight or clipped corners in my opinion.

[DNA Dan]

I agree with you 100% about the slag coin templates. If you notice those papers are the 8 button layout and instead of removing the right two buttons, I was playing with removing the two buttons closest to the joysticks and keeping the furthermost 6 buttons. I have a fairly large hand and the buttons next to the joystick just feel a bit too close. I just need to make sure I have enough room for the trackball and spinner now. That is such a hard guess because I see people really allow for a lot of room on those controls.

BTW, How did you put the black edging on your artwork? Is that part of the artwork or an overlay?

[TopJimmyCooks]

Since you have the room, consider offsetting the spinner, maybe placing it high and half way between the trackball and p1 or trackball and P2.  I can't see not centering the trackball.  It's just too . . . central.

[TopJimmyCooks]

The whole cp was painted black then the black areas were masked prior to the CF paint.
 

[emb]

What are the dimensions of the base of your cabinet?

[DNA Dan]

What are the dimensions of the base of your cabinet?

The finished dimensions will be 20" deep (minus t-molding) X 26 1/2" wide.

The reveal all around is 1/2" except on the CP top and the marquee area.

[DNA Dan]

More updates in preparation for a warmer weekend. I should be able to laminate some more pieces tomorrow. Someone on the forum mentioned frozenCPU.com and I stupidly decided to check it out...     Must have dropped about $150 in fans, wiring harnesses, controls, molex connections, sleeving, etc. etc. That place is just insane. Should really make for a clean internal wiring job though! Also bought a new desktop computer so I can take the current one I am typing on and install it in the cab. It's a C2D E8500  Wolfdale core running on a ROG Rampage Formula. Should have enough beef for almost everything in MAME. Got my artwork ordered up through gameongrafix. Other progress...

1) Cutout holes for fans. (Scythe S-Flex with manual variable control)
2) Installed Fans with dampening gaskets
3) Installed wire finger guards.
4) Installed/laminated lower keyboard support. This is two pieces of laminated boards lapped together then glued about 2" offset.
5) Fabricated keyboard shelf
6) Cut/Dry fit keyboard face plate
7) Cut/Dry fit lower access door

As a side project I am going to play with automatic switching 4/8 way on a U360. I have some ideas using motors. More on this later.

[DNA Dan]

Got held up due to weather again. This weekend was quite productive. I changed the way the keyboard tray hinges. I didn't like it on the keyboard tray itself. The reason for doing so in the first place was to make sure it doesn't get in the way when typing. I moved it to the lower support, with the piano hinge painted black. I dont' think it's noticeable unless you get under the cab. Summary of updates..

1) Move piano hinge for keyboard tray.
2) Laminated keyboard tray/Completed tray installation.
3) Laminated Lower door.
4) Installed coin mech.
5) Installed lower door hinges.
6) Installed lever clamp to hold door.
7) Laminated back of CP top, started drilling for controls.
Completed speaker wiring, glued speaker fabric.
9) Bent some aluminum L bracket, painted black for Marquee retainers.

[DaOld Man]

Looking good.
I like the way you are doing the keyboard. I have never put one on any of my machines, but this has me thinking about it for the next one.

[TopJimmyCooks]

That stuff probably took you, what, 45 minutes?!!   

[DNA Dan]

Looking good.
I like the way you are doing the keyboard. I have never put one on any of my machines, but this has me thinking about it for the next one.

Thanks. I have magnetic catches in each corner holding it closed, but this poses a problem because I cannot open it when the CP is in place. The gaps are just too small to get a finger in there. I mean it's nice that it fits so flush and tight, but I really didn't want to ruin the face by putting a handle there. It's already looking like "something other than an original arcade" and I think a handle would look terrible. I might swap out the catches for the type that you used to see on stereo cabs. The ones you push in and they pop out. I just need to be able to get my finger on it so I can swing it down.

[DNA Dan]

That stuff probably took you, what, 45 minutes?!!   

Psh.. More like 3-4 days. I find myself obsessing over measurements and positions before I actually make any cuts. It's very easy to waste material and have to redo things. It sure is awesome when the results come out as intended though.

[javeryh]

Love it.   

[JcProAm]

Looks Amazing!!!!!!  You've given me a lot of inspiration,  I've been lurking watching all the builds trying to get a feel for how to i want to build mine. 
Thanks!!!!

[DNA Dan]

Once I decided on a CP layout the rest went pretty quick. I drilled out all the buttons, trackball, joysticks and spinner. All that is remaining is the admin panel, but I need to test cut a few holes in finished laminate since it's already been finished. I dry fit all the pieces and it's good to go.

I found an easy way to top mount my U360's. When I had my button templates taped to the CP, I drilled a very small pilot hole for the joystick. I then cut out all my buttons and removed the template. Then I measured a 2 1/2" square centered on the pilot hole. Cut this out with a jig saw super fast. After placing the joystick in the hole with the top plate now sitting flat on the surface, you can then use the top plate as a tracing template. I simply took a thick sharpie and traced it out. I know a lot of people talk about using jigs and such, but if you're just building a single cabinet, try to freehand with the router. The trick is holding it with a firm grip when you start or stop it so it doesn't jerk in your hand. I tested the depth on some scrap then went for it. By having a thick black sharpie line it was relatively easy to see where the router was cutting. Also by having a thick line to cut into, I could better guage the degree to which I was "loosening" the hole. If I just touched the inside of the line, I knew it would be snug. If I veered to the outside I knew I was really stretching it. I think you get the idea. I ended up with anywhere from 1/16-1/8" around the top plate. I was very happy with the first square hole being "tight" because the joystick feel very solid, evey without screws. This should hopefully take most the pressure off the mounting screws.

More photos with the monitor attached for the money shot

[thatpurplestuff]

This thing is really starting to look great.  Nice seeing it all come together!

[Woodshop Flunky]

I like the CP... the lines are clean with lots of controller options. 

[TopJimmyCooks]

Looking good, DNA Dan.  What $ do you think you have in to the rotation system?

[DNA Dan]

The rotation was only about $100

The most expensive parts so far (in order of expense)

1) Computer (I bought a new desktop to replace my current one.)
2) Controls, joysticks, trackball, buttons, etc.
3) Monitor

[TopJimmyCooks]

I'm a bit conflicted.  I overspent a bit on the cp and still need another $40 or so to finish the driving and flight stick panels . . . . but, the slim cab w/rotation is looking mighty tasty. 

I know I could finish a working cab, (painted, no big art $) for $200 or so with the CP, Monitor, PC I have already. Plus another $100 for rotation hardware.   I already have wood, fasteners, etc.  Very tempting.   Why don't you finish yours up so I can have a look at it and make up my mind .

[TopJimmyCooks]

Ok, In all seriousness, let me make sure I have this right:

• Pololu gear motor - fed by 12v dc power supply through the motor controller
• Pololu motor controller - controlled by USB via the Pololu software
• You're going to send your rotate commands to the Pololu software via AHK as directed by Hyperspin.
• Between microswitch type limit switches and the Pololu software, you're handling braking, stopping and holding at the limits

No H Bridge, no parallel port, no slowdown zone switches.  What am I missing?  If I understand what you're doing, this is a very elegant and easy to implement solution that I am going to have to copy.

[DNA Dan]

That's pretty much the jist of it. The only thing I haven't figured out yet is how to get hyperspin to initiate the AHK command based on orientation of the game. I know other folks have used a batch file or list which HS looks up the game, than acts on it, but from what I can tell HS will not do this directly like Mala can. This is supposed to be a supported feature in HS version 2.0. There is Haterot's "hyperrotate" plugin which essentially does this for usage with Mrotate, but I would need to adapt that to just issue a simple command through an AHK script I wrote. Unfortunately that is beyond my skills.

In the wait for HS 2.0, I figure I can at least just have a shifted button function on my Minipac trigger my AHK script. 

It really is pretty basic, and the software components from Pololu are already there in place to use through AHK.

[DNA Dan]

Better yet Jimmy, for your project I don't know how you motorized the control panel, but you can daisy chain the Pololu motor controllers together (only one motor per board) and control them both through the same command line utility using AHK. The boards have different assignable IDs. You can basically add several boards together and control multiple motors all from the same SMCCMD session.

Also you don't even have to use their motors as long as the motor you are using is within their specs for the board. The jewel here is the board, and the SMCCMD software that is already written and free to download.

[TopJimmyCooks]

I don't know how you motorized the control panel

The CP is not motorized, manual only.  The easiest way would be direct drive of the center gear right under the panel.  I wouldn't be comfortable doing it without some type of safety edge or a really soft shear pin in the driveline somewhere.  My kids are 6 and 8 but they still get into plenty of trouble.  Something to keep in mind for the future, though.

The only thing I haven't figured out yet is how to get hyperspin to initiate the AHK command ..... directly like Mala can.

I'm pretty heavily invested in Mala and am going to do some quick research on AHK calls, etc.  but I agree it should already be a feature.  I'm working with a beater PC, but when I add more emulators/get a better pc I will be looking at HS.

This is the closest to a plug and play rotation solution out of all the five or seven systems I've looked at in depth.   

[DNA Dan]

The CP is not motorized, manual only.  The easiest way would be direct drive of the center gear right under the panel.  I wouldn't be comfortable doing it without some type of safety edge or a really soft shear pin in the driveline somewhere.  My kids are 6 and 8 but they still get into plenty of trouble.  Something to keep in mind for the future, though.

Not motorized!! Come on man. The only two scenarios I see that panel "opening up" under are:

1) Hit a rocket fire type switch and sirens on the top go off. You then hear air raid sirens getting louder and louder as you are presented with a "vault" that opens up.

2) You hit a button and hear the "transformers" sound as the panel opens up. You know the one effect that plays when the bots are changing?

There are motors you can buy that will stop or change direction when they encounter any big amount of resistance. The would keep from jamming fingers or chopping them off. You could also wire a switch inside the cab under lock and key that can engage or disengage the circuit. Oooh a lock switch for firing a missle ala #1 would be killer. 

[TopJimmyCooks]

here you go



except with the "Go Baby Go" instead of "nitrous". 

I was telling some dude here about thinking about making something like a dining room table fold up center leaf, that would be the shiz.  Too hard in so many respects to be worthwhile.  Fun to dream. 

I do really like the idea of having a gun cab where the guns are behind panels that slide out of the sides or front of the cab a la robocop leg holster



and that would have to be motorized for sure. 

[DNA Dan]

Well it's great to finally be winding down on the number of things I need to order! It's also nice to actually start breaking out my new controls and wiring stuff. Still waiting on artwork to proceed with the control panel. Should go fast once I get that because I am working around things I don't have yet. I ripped off EVEgames custom buttons with the ultralux buttons and decals from pongo for the admin panel. I added my own twist to it however. Instead of painting the inside of the button hole, I taped off the button edge and spray painted the backside of the button black. This way when viewed from the top the black is glossy and uniform. List of more items completed this weekend:

1) Installed speaker panel.
2) Wired fans and speaker wires into sleeving.
3) Wired AC power into cab, covered contacts with protective box, mounted surge protector.
4) Started wiring coin door.
5) Cutout admin button holes
6) Painted ultralux buttons, installed insert decals (thanks Pongo and EVEgames!).
7) Formatted computer, overclocked the CPU and setup Hyperspin.
EIGHT) Cut acrylic for control panel

[thatpurplestuff]

Looks like you made a lot of progress this weekend.  Great idea with the buttons... just from seeing the coin button it turned out great!  I'll definitely keep that technique in mind for when I start my cab!

[DNA Dan]

Details, details, details. Man there's just so many things to think of building a solid cab. I finally got my glass and decided to mount it in the cab using an "s" shaped metal catch just behind the admin panel. For the sides, I decided to let it rest on wheels. This is nice because the glass just rolls into place and rests on the wheels. I used some small nylon wheels that are made for shower doors. I ended up using www.onedayglass.com and I ordered my piece 1/8" short so it would fit with 1/16" on the sides. I figured too small is better than too big. Onedayglass has a +/-1/16" tolerance on their cutting, but I have to say after measuring, it's spot on the dimension I said I wanted. This place rocks! With the glass mounts ready and artwork in hand, I finally decided on a t-molding color. Placed another order for supplies with twistedquarter.com (I love this store!) which should be pretty much the last specialty type order of supplies I will need. In summary:

1) Installed glass mounts.
2) Mounted Pololu motor driver board, wired it up.
3) Made holes for CP wire passthrough and bolt mounting for CP.

Next few posts should be pretty exciting. I have a lot of smaller things cut and prepared just waiting for different parts here and there. It's like setting up dominoes! I have been doing what I can, with what I have on hand. This post took a while because I built a new desktop computer which I am typing on now. Wish I could use this monster in my cab, but after prepping my older desktop computer, I think the E8400 is going to be plenty powerful for a majority of what I will be playing.

[TopJimmyCooks]

I think the inserted artwork buttons are going to become somewhat standard. I'm sensing some backlash lately against full-on lit buttons.  are you doing the panel buttons or the admin buttons only?  if its a mix, the coordination between the two types is going to be nice with the black back-painting.

[DNA Dan]

IMO any kind of lighting on the CP or "in your face" is distracting while playing. I chose a fairly simple color scheme, pretty much all black buttons on a busy artwork background. To spice it up a bit I decided to light the Admin panel buttons only. I also went with 5vdc buttons and tried to minimize the intensity with painting the backsides. I did this primarily as way to make it more intuitive to visitors. I want it to be very clear what the player needs to do to navigate the menus.

In regard to aesthetics, I like the artwork backed buttons. However in terms of functionality I don't think I could play on them for very long. I am an "old school gamer" and anything NOT concave is simply unacceptable to me as a playing button. I would only suggest their use as an admin type button, but that's just personal preference. I really don't like the feel of those button types all that much either.

[TopJimmyCooks]

Dan:
Do I need to order anything else from Pololu besides this list:
Motor
bracket for motor
wheel/tire
motor control interface

Their shipping is pretty high (15% of order value, Ouch) and I don't want to do it twice if I can avoid it.  Thanks.

it looks like a computer power supply will work for everything? I have an old one available I'm hoping to use.