Two questions on under mounted joysticks

[Rick]

Hey all,

I have a couple of basic questions when it comes down to mounting my joysticks.

I'm using 3/4" MDF for my control panel, and am mounting HAPP Competition Arcade joysticks from below.  How deep of a cut should I make to mount these joysticks so that a) during spirited play, I don't rip them out of the control panel or b) they are mounted too deep so that the joystick movements are impeded?

How large is the hole for the joystick shaft usually?

Thanks!

Rick

[The Lumberjackass]

the hole for the joystick can be any size you want it to be , provided the plastic washer can cover it , that is.

as for mounting the stick , i used kreg screws on mine. they were the perfect depth on 3/4 inch mdf and
they hold damn tight. there is no way in hell you could rip a stick off a control panel using them no matter how spirited you are

[Rick]

as for mounting the stick , i used kreg screws on mine. they were the perfect depth on 3/4 inch mdf and
they hold damn tight. there is no way in hell you could rip a stick off a control panel using them no matter how spirited you are

Being the LJ, I would expect nothing less than a Kreg Master System at your shop.

 

Now - are you saying that you didn't route out the MDF to any depth?

[Marsupial]

I didn't route out anything of my 3/4 MDF for my sticks, the shaft is long ennough.

Anyway, I don't know how I would have, I don't quite understand how to route a section like that... maybe I missed something in routing class. lol.

If your sticks are long ennough, there's nothing bad of using 3/4MDF with no routing section.   Anyway, I think so.

[Rick]

I didn't route out anything of my 3/4 MDF for my sticks, the shaft is long ennough.  Anyway, I don't know how I would have, I don't quite understand how to route a section like that... maybe I missed something in routing class. lol.

See this thread for more info.  I just couldn't find what depth people were using - however, it's possible this was only for top-mounted joysticks.  I'm not sure.

If your sticks are long ennough, there's nothing bad of using 3/4MDF with no routing section.   Anyway, I think so.

I will check the length of my shaft tonight.

   

Thanks for the info.

[upprc04]

Here is a post talking about how much to route out for a under mounted joystick:

http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=106505.msg1128853#msg1128853

Hope this helps

[Rick]

Here is a post talking about how much to route out for a under mounted joystick:

http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=106505.msg1128853#msg1128853

Hope this helps

I believe it does, thank you.  What I find interesting is the measurements chosen by Randy in the response:

Bottom mount with carriage bolts showing on a .750" thick panel:

From the bottom, route out a pocket that is .450" deep, and the shape of the mounting plate.  Trace the plate onto the inside of the pocket and mark the center.  Also mark the bolt holes.  Drill a hole for the shaft at the center mark, and then check for alignment.  If it's good, drill the bolt holes and mount the base.  This will give you a .300" thick mounting area, which will be plenty strong enough to mount the stick.  One could even increase the depth of the pocket to .500" with very little risk of a problem.  The depth of the pocket equals the gain in shaft length, so do what works for you.

In this example, the .450" deep pocket is ~28/64"...  (I say 'approximately', because it's more than 28/64" and less than 29/64"...)  I think this is the winner - I'll use some nice chrome bolts, which will actually make the cabinet look more authentic!  Voila:



Thanks for the info!

 

[The Lumberjackass]

yep , i just attached my sticks straight on to the underside of the control panel.

the sticks were long enough to reach through , but having said that , i wasnt prepared
to go the whole hog and route it , just to gain an extra 1/4" .
i see alot of people routing out inset patterns so the sticks fit snug, but in my opinion ,
its a waste of time.
i just thought , " to hell with that time wastin malarkey " , so i just screwed mine on and got gaming

[Rick]

I'll have to give that a bit of thought. I love the idea of not having to route if I don't have to - maybe I'll drill a hole in some spare 3/4" stock I have here and see what it looks like. I can't say it's a bad idea.

Thanks!

[The Lumberjackass]

yep , thats the best option. as i tested mine too on a 3/4" sheet of mdf before i installed everything properly.

[justinjstark]

I undermounted on my last cab and did not route.  My sticks were happ comps and a 1 1/8" hole with undermounting was perfect (when the stick is pushed all the way directionally it nearly touches the top of the plexi).  Note that the thickness of my CP was slightly less than 3/4" (1/2" mdf + artwork + 1/12" plexi).

That said, I will be routing on my next project, partly because it will give the sticks a tad more height and partly because I want to build a jig and play with my router.      If I use plexi again I will use 1/2" mdf with maybe a 3/16" route.  If I do not use plexi I will go 3/4" mdf with a 5/16" route.

[DeLuSioNal29]

I mounted my Happ comp joys in the following manner as suggested by Jack from ArcadesRFun, who cut out my panel:

"We  install the joystick bases from underneath the panel by first drilling a shallow pilot hole smaller than the actual screw. We use 1" long zinc plated wood screws from Home depot or Lowes at about $4 per 100.
The size is #10. The box would then be marked 10 X 1.
 
The screw does not come through the top of the 3/4" panel as the joystick base is thick enough. We use only the outside corners of the joystick bases for the screws. You can test on a piece of scrap wood to feel confident about using that size."

I've had my control panel or a few years and it works great.  With rigorous playing too.

Also, it's tough to line up the joystick holes to drill without this handy template from the real Bob Roberts:  You can grab it here: http://www.therealbobroberts.net/parts.html#joysticks  (look under "Joystick Template")



It's only $2 and works great!  An invaluable tool.

D

[Rick]

I like that idea, but I might be going with holes all the way through, just to make it more authentic. The original game has bolts on the face of the CP, and I think I'm leaning this way, finally.

The CP is pretty scarce for art anyway, so the bolts may liven it up a bit.

Thanks for the input.