Sanwa JLF joystick questions

[markronz]

I recently acquired two Sanwa JLF joysticks from an old cab, and I was considering putting them into my new cab.  If I wanted to do that, what type of mounting plate would you guys recommend?   I am doing a wood control panel.  0.75 MDF wood.  It says on the website the joysticks are better suited for metal cp's.  I would assume this is still do-able, right?  So If I am using wood, would I just have to route out a square to fit this in?  If so, do you know how deep I should recess the hole?

Also about the restrictor plate.  What would be the advantages of the octagonal plate over the stock 4/8 way plate?  Do they just feel differently?  Do people have any formed opinions of which they liked better?   I plan to play pretty much every type of game.  Old school 4 way games, new-ish fighters, etc.   I plan to leave my joysticks set at 8 way.

Then I have two general questions about the joystick assembly.  Is there a chart any where online that details how this joystick should be put back together?   I put mine back together, and I swear it's right, but I can't seem to get the E-clip attached on the bottom.  It's so close, but its just a tiny bit too far in for it to be possible.   

And lastly, can someone tell me what wires go to what for the wire harness of the Sanwa JLF?   Mine has 5 wires.  Brown, Pink, Purple, Light Green, and White.   Not sure what's for what?

Thanks!

[markronz]

Nevermind about the assembly questions.  I was able to put it back together today. Not sure what I was doing yesterday...

Still wondering about the rest of this though.

Thanks!

[upprc04]

I'd be interested in the mounting also.  I've seen some other posts that show how to top mount these joysticks.  I'm not planning on having artwork or plexiglass on top of the MDF/wood.  Is there a way to recess the plate and not have a gap showing?  I don't mind if the mounting plate is visible on top, but would like it to be flush then.

Here is a link to the mounting guide I have seen and it has been referred to quite a bit: http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=90467.0

[DeLuSioNal29]

+1 on the "how to mount question".  I'd also like to know.

Also, to add to the questions:  Which is the model that does both 8-way and 4-way (switchable from underneath).
http://www.lizardlick.com/Sanwa-Joysticks_c_158.html

Edit:  I think this is the model that would work best for MAME applications - Sanwa JLW-TM-8 Joystick

D

[upprc04]

I'm pretty sure all the Sanwa sticks are switchable from underneath.  One you have to take the restrictor plate off and rotate and one you can just loosen screws and rotate (don't have to completely remove it).  I believe the JLF you have to completely remove the plate and the JLW is the one that can just rotate when loose.  I have a couple of JLW joysticks coming my way soon, so if someone can please confirm this for Delusional?   

[markronz]

The link you provided is actually a good guide.
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=90467.0

Pretty sure I can follow that, but what I don't understand is how the artwork would rest on top of the mounting plates, and not get all messed up.   I plan on ordering artwork from GameOnGrafix.   I will not be putting plexi glass on top of mine.   I know the artwork for CP's from that site is thick, but if there are bolts sticking out of the top of the mounting plate, then I don't understand how the artwork would not wrinkle?   I realize in the guide he grinds down the screws, but any way you look at it, the screws are going to be sticking out a little bit.   Any ideas how to handle that?  It seems like you'd want the plate to be entirely level with the rest of the CP, and not have any bolts sticking out.  Or if you recess the whole setup even further, then the bolts would be even with the CP, and the rest of the mounting plate would be too low.   So I'm confused...

Also, about the switching stuff.  I have JLF's.  You have to completely remove the restrictor plate and rotate it.

[DeLuSioNal29]

I was just reading that guide and was about to post a link to it.  You beat me to it. 

I think you would fill in the gaps with bondo and then sand it smooth.  Then you would paint it so that when you apply the artwork it will stick properly.

However, I would like to mount mine from underneath.  I don't mind the bolts showing from the top.  It give it character.  Also, if I want to replace the joystick in the future I can still do it easily.  Can't say that for the top mounted sticks.

D

[SlayerAlex]

octigonal gates are a weird preference. I tried them both and i prefer they square gate. Octs are for people that complain about hitting diagnols by accident. Like they walk foward and then jump for no reason. But i never had that problem.

[markronz]

Ok, so I've all but decided to just top mount my Sanwa JLF's that I have here.  I've ordered the mounting plates from Lizard Lick and they should be on the way.   I'd love to find a way to bottom mount these, but it seems it's just not going to happen.  So top mounting it is.   I will be getting the mounting plate in there and attached, and then using Bondo to cover it up, and make it completely level with the rest of the top of my CP.  That way my artwork won't get all messed up.

I've ordered the Octagonal plates too.  I guess I will just test them out and see which I prefer. That way I will know for sure.

I still have one remaining question I hope someone can help me with.  I am not sure what wires are what in the wiring harness.   Mine has 5 wires.  Brown, Pink, Purple, Light Green, and White.   Not sure what's for what?  Any idea?  The harness they are selling on Lizard Lick has a different color scheme than mine apparently.   But even still, I can't find any sort of explanation anywhere about the wires for that harness either.   Mine appears to be the same harness, just different colors   So if someone has any idea on how to figure this out, I would appreciate it!

[BadMouth]

It should be simple enough to look at the traces & figure out which one is the ground.
(IIRC, should be the one all the way to the left looking at the joystick from the bottom)
You can test all the others from there.

You won't find any definitive answer like pink=up because it depends on which way the joystick is mounted.  

[markronz]

doh!  I shoulda thought of that!   Traced it and white is ground, the rest I will play with.   Thanks for the help!!

[RandyT]

However, I would like to mount mine from underneath.  I don't mind the bolts showing from the top.  It give it character.  Also, if I want to replace the joystick in the future I can still do it easily.  Can't say that for the top mounted sticks.

It seems all of these types of sticks will pose the same dilemma, and our True4 stick would be handled similarly, so I'll put in my two cents.

Bottom mount with carriage bolts showing on a .750" thick panel:

From the bottom, route out a pocket that is .450" deep, and the shape of the mounting plate.  Trace the plate onto the inside of the pocket and mark the center.  Also mark the bolt holes.  Drill a hole for the shaft at the center mark, and then check for alignment.  If it's good, drill the bolt holes and mount the base.  This will give you a .300" thick mounting area, which will be plenty strong enough to mount the stick.  One could even increase the depth of the pocket to .500" with very little risk of a problem.  The depth of the pocket equals the gain in shaft length, so do what works for you.

Bottom mount with no bolts showing on a .750" thick panel:

Same as above but leave .400" panel thickness and use threaded inserts like the ones in our joystick mounting kit.  Do everything the same, but use the proper size drill bit for the inserts and, again, drill through the panel.  The inserts can be installed from the top, if they are recessed below the panel surface when installed, but it's simpler from below.  Then, after everything is mounted (spacers or washers will be necessary if the kit above is used), just use wood putty to fill the holes on the top of the panel where the inserts are installed.  This method results in a slightly shorter stick, but may be preferable to those not wanting bolt heads visible.

---------------

To get the full length of the shaft, you would need to use an overlay on your panel, or do a lot of filling.  Just route a hole for the base to fit comfortably (doesn't even have to be neat with an overlay) and a pocket on top that is deep enough to accommodate the mounting plate.  Just make sure that you leave enough material around the bolt holes so they don't break out and you are golden.

RandyT

[saloonstudios]

I have JLF's.  You have to completely remove the restrictor plate and rotate it.

Assuming not, but can you use a JLW restrictor plate on a JLF to enable the easy 4/8 switching?

[markronz]

Assuming not, but can you use a JLW restrictor plate on a JLF to enable the easy 4/8 switching?

Nope, the plates are not compatible with each other.  They have different bolts and etc.

[markronz]

It seems all of these types of sticks will pose the same dilemma, and our True4 stick would be handled similarly, so I'll put in my two cents.

Bottom mount with carriage bolts showing on a .750" thick panel:

From the bottom, route out a pocket that is .450" deep, and the shape of the mounting plate.  Trace the plate onto the inside of the pocket and mark the center.  Also mark the bolt holes.  Drill a hole for the shaft at the center mark, and then check for alignment.  If it's good, drill the bolt holes and mount the base.  This will give you a .300" thick mounting area, which will be plenty strong enough to mount the stick.  One could even increase the depth of the pocket to .500" with very little risk of a problem.  The depth of the pocket equals the gain in shaft length, so do what works for you.

Bottom mount with no bolts showing on a .750" thick panel:

Same as above but leave .400" panel thickness and use threaded inserts like the ones in our joystick mounting kit.  Do everything the same, but use the proper size drill bit for the inserts and, again, drill through the panel.  The inserts can be installed from the top, if they are recessed below the panel surface when installed, but it's simpler from below.  Then, after everything it mounted (spacers or washers will be necessary if the kit above is used), just use wood putty to fill the holes on the top of the panel where the inserts are installed.  This method results in a slightly shorter stick, but may be preferable to those not wanting bolt heads visible.

---------------

To get the full length of the shaft, you would need to use an overlay on your panel, or do a lot of filling.  Just route a hole for the base to fit comfortably (doesn't even have to be neat with an overlay) and a pocket on top that is deep enough to accommodate the mounting plate.  Just make sure that you leave enough material around the bolt holes so they don't break out and you are golden.

RandyT

Thanks for all this info Randy!   It will be immensely helpful!  Thanks for taking the time to write that all out!

[upprc04]

It seems all of these types of sticks will pose the same dilemma, and our True4 stick would be handled similarly, so I'll put in my two cents.

Bottom mount with carriage bolts showing on a .750" thick panel:

From the bottom, route out a pocket that is .450" deep, and the shape of the mounting plate.  Trace the plate onto the inside of the pocket and mark the center.  Also mark the bolt holes.  Drill a hole for the shaft at the center mark, and then check for alignment.  If it's good, drill the bolt holes and mount the base.  This will give you a .300" thick mounting area, which will be plenty strong enough to mount the stick.  One could even increase the depth of the pocket to .500" with very little risk of a problem.  The depth of the pocket equals the gain in shaft length, so do what works for you.

Bottom mount with no bolts showing on a .750" thick panel:

Same as above but leave .400" panel thickness and use threaded inserts like the ones in our joystick mounting kit.  Do everything the same, but use the proper size drill bit for the inserts and, again, drill through the panel.  The inserts can be installed from the top, if they are recessed below the panel surface when installed, but it's simpler from below.  Then, after everything it mounted (spacers or washers will be necessary if the kit above is used), just use wood putty to fill the holes on the top of the panel where the inserts are installed.  This method results in a slightly shorter stick, but may be preferable to those not wanting bolt heads visible.

---------------

To get the full length of the shaft, you would need to use an overlay on your panel, or do a lot of filling.  Just route a hole for the base to fit comfortably (doesn't even have to be neat with an overlay) and a pocket on top that is deep enough to accommodate the mounting plate.  Just make sure that you leave enough material around the bolt holes so they don't break out and you are golden.

RandyT

Thanks for all this info Randy!   It will be immensely helpful!  Thanks for taking the time to write that all out!

+1 to Randy also.  Thank you for the great info

[severdhed]

i dont know how the JLF compares to the JLW, but i bottom mounted my JLWs in 5/8" MDF with 1/8" plexi over top(to be added shortly).  i routed out roughly have the thickness of the MDF from below and then just bolted them in from the top.  i countersunk the bolt heads so the plexi will lay flat over them. they feel very solid, it is plenty of thickness to hold them in.  and the shaft height feels perfect.

you can loosen 4 screws to rotate the restrictor between 4 and 8 way.  in this cabinet i leave them in 8way mode all the time, they are great.(and with the square restrictor, they work very well for qbert).  i have one in my classics cabinet as a dedicated 4 way, and i can't imagine a better 4way stick

[Jack Burton]

There is a good page about this on slagcoin.com.

http://slagcoin.com/joystick/mounting_layering.html

This is my preferred style of mounting:



Very simple and easy, but certainly not the best.  There are a number of stronger and more aesthetically pleasing options at the website.

Of all of them I like this one best:



With this one you get the full correct shaft length as well as no visible bolts, and a strong mount. 

[markronz]

Thats an excellent page.  Lots of good information there!  Thanks so much!