Thought I'd try my hand at a home built spinner (this is BUILD your own arcade controls).
It didn't turn out perfect, but I think I'm on to something with a few new ideas.
The basic ideas are from the mouse hack spinner builds here in the controls section of byoac.
I set about doing something similar, but wanted it to fit in a button housing.
This is more of a summary than a how-to. If you want exact measurements, etc, there are detailed instructions in the controls section.
I chose shower door rollers for bearings because they were a near perfect fit for the button housing.
The 4-pack came with two 7/8" rollers and two 3/4" rollers.
The 7/8" roller sits on a ledge just inside the button and the 3/4" fits all the way in.
The rollers are threaded for a #8 bolt, so that led to using that size rod as the shaft.
That also happens to be the standard thread size for cabinet knobs. They had a couple heavy
knobs that would have made decent spinner knobs on their own, but they were all around $15.
I chose a basic knob with a straight base that would work more as a cap than as the entire spinner.
Parts bought:
4-pack shower door rollers $3.47
#8-32 x 12" threaded rod $ .98
bag of #8-32 nuts $ .98
cabinet knob $1.18
caster wheel $1.74
-------------------------------------------------
$8.35
Also used:
Old rollerball mouse
Happ Button housing
Plastic Epoxy
Loc-tite
Piece of thin scrap metal to bend bracket out of
I'm not going to get into the specifics of everything, but a couple pointers...
The rollers don't spin very freely with the heavy grease they come with. One of the articles I read said to use WD-40, but
it evaporates, so I used PB Blaster. The basic idea is to displace the heavy grease with a lighter lubricant.
Keep the nut side down when assembling everything. They spin more freely in that position.
USE LOC-TITE! The spinner will spin itself a part if the rod rotates in the threads instead of turning the rollers!
Make sure the rod is straight before you start. This is where mine fell short. I assumed the rod was perfectly straight.
I assumed wrong and didn't find that it had a slight bend until things were already epoxied in place. It still works, but isn't
as good as it could have been.




the rollers are epoxied in place. smaller roller is set even with the back of the button.
To attach the optical wheel from the mouse, I placed some heat shrink tubing on the end, put some epoxy in it,
put the wheel in place, then shrank the tubing while the epoxy was still liquid. You can make any needed adjustments
as the epoxy sets. My wheel ended up perfectly parallel to everything, but has a little lateral movement due to the part
of the rod I used being slightly bent.

