9110 swap for Polo

[marshall]

Im trying to repair a Hanarex 9110 monitor on another thread but have just been offered a Hantarex polo 26", could I use this monitor as a replacement without too much trouble? What would be involved to make it electrically compatible?

[grantspain]

are you talking about a chassis swap or complete monitor swap-also are in the U.S or U.K

[marshall]

I'm in the uk and it would be a complete swap, tube and chassis, only difference is my monitor is 25 and polo is 26. I can make it physically fit but not sure on electrically.

[grantspain]

the polo needs to run on 230vac unlike the mtc9110 which runs on 115vac-not a major problem as you can wire up the polo direct to the mains in and bypass the transformer

[marshall]

Are the video inputs easy enough?
As far as I know its RED/BLUE/GREEN a ground and a synch, is that correct and will it work if I just connect those?

[grantspain]

Are the video inputs easy enough?
As far as I know its RED/BLUE/GREEN a ground and a synch, is that correct and will it work if I just connect those?

should be the exact same 6 pin green plug-it should just plug an play once the mains wiring is done.

never seen a polo 26"-hantarex made 25" and 28" of the larger crt-you will find the polo chassis says polo 25 on it

[marshall]

It seems I made a mistake and it is a 25" monitor.

So the green plug for the video just a plug in job, there is another plug on my 9110 and the schematics say its for 130volt and 240volt, I take it this is not present on the Polo monitor and I simply need to supply it with 240volts and everything will be fine?

[grantspain]

yeah the mtc9000 series needed 120 vac to run the chassis and 230vac to run the degauss,the polo only requires 230vac to do the lot

[marshall]

I swapped the monitors so now comes the wiring.

The old green connector from my machine (left) has an extra wire over the connector which went into the polo (right) from the machine the monitor was removed from, and the RED/BLUE are a different way around.
The RED/Blue is simple to put right but what about the extra wires.

I know this connector came from a different game but it has me worried that there is an extra wire in my connector and they are different colors.

Is it still a straight plug and play job?

[grantspain]

the extra wire is vertical sync and should not be required,like you said you may need to swap red and blue

[marshall]

Thats simple enough then, one more question, my 9110 has a switch for changing the polarity of the incoming video signal, but I cant seem to find it on the polo?

[grantspain]

polo does not have a switch,pretty sure it sorts the sync out automatically(apart from snk and namco games where you may need to connect a 5k resistor from vert sync to video ground)

[marshall]

Ive been setting this up for the transplant and it turns out its a polo 2 in 25 inch, does that change anything or am I still good to go, is there any difference between polo and polo 2?

[grantspain]

no difference in connections on polo 2 or polo 1,the polo 2 is most likely a dual sync auto chassis which means you can run 15 or 24khz
it should have a label in green that says polo 2 25 auto if this is the case

[marshall]

OK so Ive swapped the monitors and its looking good compared to the old  monitor, but of course, I still have a problem!

The picture is not filling the screen in both height and width, there is also a little 'pincusion' effect, but Im sure this would dissapear if the picture was filling the screen. The colors also look a little washed out.
Do I need to adjust something??

[grantspain]

whats that operation wolf?
anyway on the polo2 you have side pincushion,vertical size and horizontal size on the remote board

[marshall]

Its Operation Thunderbolt, I played this as a 20 year old at a lads weekend in skeggy and loved it so suppose Im reliving my youth, thats why Im determined to make it work!

I dont have a manual for this monitor as it was removed from a Sega cabinet, where are the pots I need?

Ive found one labelled 'cushion' and it makes a slight difference but nothing seems to make the picture fit the screen.

[grantspain]

you're gonna love this,
the polo 2 suffered a few common faults,one was a fail is the transistor of the width circuit- bdx43 off the top of my head,the other problem was with leaky diodes on the east west correction circuit
both would cause issues you are seeing
UNLESS you did a chassis only swap and if that is the case then the problem is down to a mismatch with the yoke

[marshall]

OH for goodness sake!!! 

The person who sold me this was adamant that it was working just fine, Ive found a pot which moves the picture side to side and another which moves it up and down, but nothing to make it larger.

What are the parts I need to change?

[grantspain]

are you sure that the pots for horizontal and vertical size are not just missing the trimmers,there is without a shadow of a doubt both those adjustments plus trapezoid and lots others on that remote
tell you what take a photo and post it here

[marshall]

I know less about this monitor than the 9110!
The whole lot was changed, tube and chassis, so its the complete replacement unit fitted.

[grantspain]

H amp is horizontal size
V amp is vertical size
out of interest what is written on the crt label-it will be something like A66EAGG710

[marshall]

The whole lot was changed, tube and chassis, so its the complete replacement unit fitted.

The label says......A59EAK552X11......

[marshall]

All those pots do is move the image side to side slightly, the image does not increase/decrease in size. 

[grantspain]

hantarex used loads of different tubes,for the tube/yoke combinations to work perfectly with the chassis some chassis needed modification-if you look closely on the label of the chassis on the right you will see a list a crt models that work with that chassis,your crt is slightly different to the one listed
the mods were a couple of resistors
i do not have the info to hand to which resistors need changing but you can ask hantarex tech dept
tbh i am a bit confused about the actions of your chassis unless you have bad solder joints on the remote board or the header plug/socket

[marshall]

So you are saying my tube, yoke/ chassis are incompatible with each other and I need to modify the chassis?

[grantspain]

what you will find is that some crap operator has swapped the chassis on that crt at some point,99.9% of arcade operators are crap and do not follow hantarex's instruction as all they care about is that they actually have a picture
its difficult to say from just photos and your information whether you have a greater problem but i am quite sure all you need to do is swap one resistor(maybe 2)
if you look on the neck card you may find printed on it the list of resistors that need changing according to crt

[marshall]

Checked the neck board  but I cant decipher what its telling me. Which resistor do I need to check and what should its value be?

I will fix it if it kills me.......

[grantspain]

its quite straightforwards,you will need to check the value of the resistors at the following locations
R35 neckboard should be  12 ohms 4watt
R119 on main board should be 82 ohms 1/2 watt
R9 on the small east/west correction board should be 39000 ohms at 1//4 watt

I am sure R9 affects the pincushion,R119 affects the width and R35 affects the brightness

where are you in the u.k mate?

[marshall]

I'm in Nottingham. I think you're in Kent aren't you? If you can fix this for me I don't mind travelling as I'm going to Kent anyway soon. Will check the resistors and get back to you.

[marshall]

As best as I can see.........

R9 is Orange White Orange is that 39 k?

R119 is what looks like grey, red, silver which  would be the 82ohm

R35 just says 12R  5%
Do they sound right?

Someone has been soldering R35 and some other wires........

I dont have schematics for this monitor and there are some colored wires, reds, greens and blacks labelled 'SP' and then various numbers, these look like they have been resoldered, can you tell me what color wire should be where?

[grantspain]

the resistor values all look correct
do you have a photo of the wires marked SP so I can see what they are
also show me which pots on the remote board you have adjusted

[marshall]

Have adjusted color pots on neck cards, H AMP - V AMP and on the other one.

Wires marked SP are

GREEN at bottom of white tube connector
BLACK/GREEN/YELLOW at the top of neck card and RED one at the top which is slightly obscured by red live wire, you can see its marked SP4. This was the best picture I could get because it kept overexposing.

[grantspain]

all those wires are in the correct place,what is very strange is this issue whereby the h amp and v amp only move the picture,all i can think of now is a bad solder joint/bent pins on that remote boardbb

[marshall]

Ive taken the board off, the solder joints at the top left of the pic are for the V-AMP pot (RV4) they look a little dry so will have a play. But that doesnt explain lack of horizontal, there are no bent pins.

Also the pot does seem to have an effect if not the desired one!

Could this be a main gameboard fault?

Can I check the output from the gameboad with a multimeter or do I need a scope?

[grantspain]

unlikely game board but check your +5 volts to be sure,this is quite a mysterious fault

[marshall]

Well the monitor I removed was ker put, so with this one at least theres a picture, and if its not the gameboard then it can be repaired.

You mentioned previously , changing some parts, Im open to suggestions??

[grantspain]

ok final shot,photo of the signal input plug plugged into the monitor please

[marshall]

Do you mean the one from the gameboard?

It has the R/G/B, 240 and 130v wires on it?

Or the green connector which plugs into the chassis.

[grantspain]

the green connector please that has the red/green/blue/video ground and sync wires