Author Topic: 9110 swap for Polo (Read 8040 times)

marshall · « **on:** February 13, 2010, 07:02:37 am »

Im trying to repair a Hanarex 9110 monitor on another thread but have just been offered a Hantarex polo 26", could I use this monitor as a replacement without too much trouble? What would be involved to make it electrically compatible?

grantspain · « **Reply #1 on:** February 13, 2010, 08:40:31 am »

are you talking about a chassis swap or complete monitor swap-also are in the U.S or U.K

marshall · « **Reply #2 on:** February 13, 2010, 08:52:56 am »

I'm in the uk and it would be a complete swap, tube and chassis, only difference is my monitor is 25 and polo is 26. I can make it physically fit but not sure on electrically.

grantspain · « **Reply #3 on:** February 13, 2010, 10:25:24 am »

the polo needs to run on 230vac unlike the mtc9110 which runs on 115vac-not a major problem as you can wire up the polo direct to the mains in and bypass the transformer

marshall · « **Reply #4 on:** February 13, 2010, 10:31:53 am »

Are the video inputs easy enough?
As far as I know its RED/BLUE/GREEN a ground and a synch, is that correct and will it work if I just connect those?

grantspain · « **Reply #5 on:** February 13, 2010, 11:10:28 am »

Quote from: marshall on February 13, 2010, 10:31:53 am

Are the video inputs easy enough?
As far as I know its RED/BLUE/GREEN a ground and a synch, is that correct and will it work if I just connect those?

should be the exact same 6 pin green plug-it should just plug an play once the mains wiring is done.

never seen a polo 26"-hantarex made 25" and 28" of the larger crt-you will find the polo chassis says polo 25 on it

marshall · « **Reply #6 on:** February 13, 2010, 02:05:53 pm »

It seems I made a mistake and it is a 25" monitor.

So the green plug for the video just a plug in job, there is another plug on my 9110 and the schematics say its for 130volt and 240volt, I take it this is not present on the Polo monitor and I simply need to supply it with 240volts and everything will be fine?

grantspain · « **Reply #7 on:** February 13, 2010, 02:15:01 pm »

yeah the mtc9000 series needed 120 vac to run the chassis and 230vac to run the degauss,the polo only requires 230vac to do the lot

marshall · « **Reply #8 on:** February 15, 2010, 03:09:46 pm »

I swapped the monitors so now comes the wiring.

The old green connector from my machine (left) has an extra wire over the connector which went into the polo (right) from the machine the monitor was removed from, and the RED/BLUE are a different way around.
The RED/Blue is simple to put right but what about the extra wires.

I know this connector came from a different game but it has me worried that there is an extra wire in my connector and they are different colors.

Is it still a straight plug and play job?

grantspain · « **Reply #9 on:** February 15, 2010, 05:33:00 pm »

the extra wire is vertical sync and should not be required,like you said you may need to swap red and blue

marshall · « **Reply #10 on:** February 16, 2010, 03:48:29 am »

Thats simple enough then, one more question, my 9110 has a switch for changing the polarity of the incoming video signal, but I cant seem to find it on the polo?

grantspain · « **Reply #11 on:** February 16, 2010, 05:48:31 pm »

polo does not have a switch,pretty sure it sorts the sync out automatically(apart from snk and namco games where you may need to connect a 5k resistor from vert sync to video ground)

marshall · « **Reply #12 on:** February 18, 2010, 05:49:50 pm »

Ive been setting this up for the transplant and it turns out its a polo 2 in 25 inch, does that change anything or am I still good to go, is there any difference between polo and polo 2?

grantspain · « **Reply #13 on:** February 18, 2010, 06:17:34 pm »

no difference in connections on polo 2 or polo 1,the polo 2 is most likely a dual sync auto chassis which means you can run 15 or 24khz
it should have a label in green that says polo 2 25 auto if this is the case

marshall · « **Reply #14 on:** February 19, 2010, 12:00:06 pm »

OK so Ive swapped the monitors and its looking good compared to the old monitor, but of course, I still have a problem!

The picture is not filling the screen in both height and width, there is also a little 'pincusion' effect, but Im sure this would dissapear if the picture was filling the screen. The colors also look a little washed out.
Do I need to adjust something??

grantspain · « **Reply #15 on:** February 19, 2010, 01:16:10 pm »

whats that operation wolf?
anyway on the polo2 you have side pincushion,vertical size and horizontal size on the remote board

marshall · « **Reply #16 on:** February 19, 2010, 01:46:56 pm »

Its Operation Thunderbolt, I played this as a 20 year old at a lads weekend in skeggy and loved it so suppose Im reliving my youth, thats why Im determined to make it work!

I dont have a manual for this monitor as it was removed from a Sega cabinet, where are the pots I need?

Ive found one labelled 'cushion' and it makes a slight difference but nothing seems to make the picture fit the screen.

grantspain · « **Reply #17 on:** February 19, 2010, 02:21:44 pm »

you're gonna love this,
the polo 2 suffered a few common faults,one was a fail is the transistor of the width circuit- bdx43 off the top of my head,the other problem was with leaky diodes on the east west correction circuit
both would cause issues you are seeing
UNLESS you did a chassis only swap and if that is the case then the problem is down to a mismatch with the yoke

marshall · « **Reply #18 on:** February 19, 2010, 02:50:20 pm »

OH for goodness sake!!!

The person who sold me this was adamant that it was working just fine, Ive found a pot which moves the picture side to side and another which moves it up and down, but nothing to make it larger.

What are the parts I need to change?

grantspain · « **Reply #19 on:** February 19, 2010, 03:27:19 pm »

are you sure that the pots for horizontal and vertical size are not just missing the trimmers,there is without a shadow of a doubt both those adjustments plus trapezoid and lots others on that remote
tell you what take a photo and post it here

marshall · « **Reply #20 on:** February 19, 2010, 03:48:44 pm »

I know less about this monitor than the 9110!
The whole lot was changed, tube and chassis, so its the complete replacement unit fitted.

grantspain · « **Reply #21 on:** February 19, 2010, 04:08:10 pm »

H amp is horizontal size
V amp is vertical size
out of interest what is written on the crt label-it will be something like A66EAGG710

marshall · « **Reply #22 on:** February 19, 2010, 04:14:39 pm »

The whole lot was changed, tube and chassis, so its the complete replacement unit fitted.

The label says......A59EAK552X11......

marshall · « **Reply #23 on:** February 19, 2010, 04:24:40 pm »

All those pots do is move the image side to side slightly, the image does not increase/decrease in size.

grantspain · « **Reply #24 on:** February 19, 2010, 04:41:20 pm »

hantarex used loads of different tubes,for the tube/yoke combinations to work perfectly with the chassis some chassis needed modification-if you look closely on the label of the chassis on the right you will see a list a crt models that work with that chassis,your crt is slightly different to the one listed
the mods were a couple of resistors
i do not have the info to hand to which resistors need changing but you can ask hantarex tech dept
tbh i am a bit confused about the actions of your chassis unless you have bad solder joints on the remote board or the header plug/socket

marshall · « **Reply #25 on:** February 19, 2010, 05:02:22 pm »

So you are saying my tube, yoke/ chassis are incompatible with each other and I need to modify the chassis?

grantspain · « **Reply #26 on:** February 19, 2010, 05:13:20 pm »

what you will find is that some crap operator has swapped the chassis on that crt at some point,99.9% of arcade operators are crap and do not follow hantarex's instruction as all they care about is that they actually have a picture
its difficult to say from just photos and your information whether you have a greater problem but i am quite sure all you need to do is swap one resistor(maybe 2)
if you look on the neck card you may find printed on it the list of resistors that need changing according to crt

marshall · « **Reply #27 on:** February 21, 2010, 03:58:07 am »

Checked the neck board but I cant decipher what its telling me. Which resistor do I need to check and what should its value be?

I will fix it if it kills me.......

grantspain · « **Reply #28 on:** February 21, 2010, 09:18:50 am »

its quite straightforwards,you will need to check the value of the resistors at the following locations
R35 neckboard should be 12 ohms 4watt
R119 on main board should be 82 ohms 1/2 watt
R9 on the small east/west correction board should be 39000 ohms at 1//4 watt

I am sure R9 affects the pincushion,R119 affects the width and R35 affects the brightness

where are you in the u.k mate?

marshall · « **Reply #29 on:** February 21, 2010, 10:21:53 am »

I'm in Nottingham. I think you're in Kent aren't you? If you can fix this for me I don't mind travelling as I'm going to Kent anyway soon. Will check the resistors and get back to you.

marshall · « **Reply #30 on:** February 21, 2010, 12:05:09 pm »

As best as I can see.........

R9 is Orange White Orange is that 39 k?

R119 is what looks like grey, red, silver which would be the 82ohm

R35 just says 12R 5%
Do they sound right?

Someone has been soldering R35 and some other wires........

I dont have schematics for this monitor and there are some colored wires, reds, greens and blacks labelled 'SP' and then various numbers, these look like they have been resoldered, can you tell me what color wire should be where?

grantspain · « **Reply #31 on:** February 21, 2010, 12:26:34 pm »

the resistor values all look correct
do you have a photo of the wires marked SP so I can see what they are
also show me which pots on the remote board you have adjusted

marshall · « **Reply #32 on:** February 21, 2010, 12:47:50 pm »

Have adjusted color pots on neck cards, H AMP - V AMP and on the other one.

Wires marked SP are

GREEN at bottom of white tube connector
BLACK/GREEN/YELLOW at the top of neck card and RED one at the top which is slightly obscured by red live wire, you can see its marked SP4. This was the best picture I could get because it kept overexposing.

grantspain · « **Reply #33 on:** February 21, 2010, 01:00:22 pm »

all those wires are in the correct place,what is very strange is this issue whereby the h amp and v amp only move the picture,all i can think of now is a bad solder joint/bent pins on that remote boardbb

marshall · « **Reply #34 on:** February 21, 2010, 02:51:19 pm »

Ive taken the board off, the solder joints at the top left of the pic are for the V-AMP pot (RV4) they look a little dry so will have a play. But that doesnt explain lack of horizontal, there are no bent pins.

Also the pot does seem to have an effect if not the desired one!

Could this be a main gameboard fault?

Can I check the output from the gameboad with a multimeter or do I need a scope?

grantspain · « **Reply #35 on:** February 21, 2010, 03:02:38 pm »

unlikely game board but check your +5 volts to be sure,this is quite a mysterious fault

marshall · « **Reply #36 on:** February 21, 2010, 03:25:49 pm »

Well the monitor I removed was ker put, so with this one at least theres a picture, and if its not the gameboard then it can be repaired.

You mentioned previously , changing some parts, Im open to suggestions?

?

grantspain · « **Reply #37 on:** February 21, 2010, 04:15:31 pm »

ok final shot,photo of the signal input plug plugged into the monitor please

marshall · « **Reply #38 on:** February 21, 2010, 04:23:16 pm »

Do you mean the one from the gameboard?

It has the R/G/B, 240 and 130v wires on it?

Or the green connector which plugs into the chassis.

grantspain · « **Reply #39 on:** February 21, 2010, 04:28:37 pm »

the green connector please that has the red/green/blue/video ground and sync wires

marshall · « **Reply #40 on:** February 21, 2010, 04:37:02 pm »

The insulation tape is on the wires as I cut RED and BLUE then swapped them over.

grantspain · « **Reply #41 on:** February 21, 2010, 04:42:58 pm »

is it only the blue and red that you rewired or have you cut and joined other wires?

marshall · « **Reply #42 on:** February 21, 2010, 04:46:07 pm »

Only RED/BLUE, everything else is as it was.

grantspain · « **Reply #43 on:** February 21, 2010, 04:49:12 pm »

that plug looks like its not on correctly

marshall · « **Reply #44 on:** February 21, 2010, 04:54:59 pm »

Just had a look and I agree, its not.

But the monitor is in my living room to prevent it getting cold/damp whilst Im not using it, an I nipped out to get the plug off the machine which was then just quickly assembled to take the picture. It was all good when connected up and running.

grantspain · « **Reply #45 on:** February 21, 2010, 05:02:23 pm »

ok well i am at a loss to whats causing the problem,you can get more width via the width coil but it does not explain the lack of height

marshall · « **Reply #46 on:** February 21, 2010, 05:10:34 pm »

Its been in and out of the cabinet several times so Im sure its not the plug.

I take it that if the plug wasnt on correctly, that would produce the symptoms I have?

If you think of anything let me know please.

grantspain · « **Reply #47 on:** February 21, 2010, 05:17:34 pm »

a photo of the best screen you got so far will help

marshall · « **Reply #48 on:** February 22, 2010, 02:40:26 am »

That would be this one, its like the resoloution is set wrong, my pc does that if I set incorrectly.

I wired this direct to the incoming mains wire, in the cabinet I removed it from it came through a EMI transformer, could that have anything to do with it?

grantspain · « **Reply #49 on:** February 22, 2010, 01:25:45 pm »

you can run polo direct from wall socket,have you tried adjusting anymore of the controls to see if they work

marshall · « **Reply #50 on:** February 26, 2010, 03:23:57 pm »

Its been cold and Ive been busy so not done much the last few days, but have wired the monitor up to its own plug in the living room and switched it on having taken the mainboard out to check for bad joints, then adjusted the H AMP to find it fills the screen with picture like you said it should. When it was on the machine that was not the effect it had! Obviously there is no video input at the moment.
The V AMP didnt need adjusting because the screen was full in that direction anyway. Now got to reconnect it to the machine to see what happens so that will be tomorrow now.

grantspain · « **Reply #51 on:** February 26, 2010, 03:56:25 pm »

you do realise that the polo is a 230vac chassis and not 110vac like the mtc9110

marshall · « **Reply #52 on:** February 26, 2010, 04:02:15 pm »

Yes I know that, it was wired to 240volts but to a transformer input inside the machine.

I measured the voltage before connecting it up. When I plugged it directly to a wall socket the screen was the same as when it was inside the machine, but the adjustments seemed to be working properly which they wasnt doing before, will see what happens when its back inside the cabinet.

marshall · « **Reply #53 on:** February 27, 2010, 10:46:19 am »

I dont know why, but its working!!!

Did what you said and wired it direct to wall, played around with H & V AMP which filled the screen, reconnected it to the machine and its working. The colors look a little washed out but Im sure some fine tuning will sort that.

Thanks grantspain for all your help.

Cant tell you how good it feels to have sorted it!!!

grantspain · « **Reply #54 on:** February 27, 2010, 12:37:44 pm »

the adjustments for colours are on the neck card

marshall · « **Reply #55 on:** February 27, 2010, 12:57:15 pm »

Yes, Ive been fiddling with them since 1pm today and the picture above is the best I can get it, so going to leave it on all night and have another fiddle tomorrow. It looks quite GREEN, and have had to turn all the colors down to get that picture.

grantspain · « **Reply #56 on:** February 27, 2010, 01:29:06 pm »

hmm could be a leaking drive transistor on the green
you should find 5 adjustments on the neck,3 cut offs and 2 drives(red and blue)
turn the cut offs down to minimum and then adjust the drives-if you still see a green washout then change t4(i think from the top of my head),its the middle of the 3 drive transistors

marshall · « **Reply #57 on:** February 27, 2010, 05:25:32 pm »

Do they go clockwise or anticlockwise to turn them down and do you know the value of the transistor as I don't have the schematics for this unit.

grantspain · « **Reply #58 on:** February 27, 2010, 05:54:12 pm »

bf859 is the drive transistor-i am pretty sure pots anti clockwise to minimum
if you have any solder skills a quick way to fault find the problem is to simply remove the green drive transistor

marshall · « **Reply #59 on:** March 01, 2010, 02:24:08 pm »

I 'inherited' a new chassis for this today, but when it was all connected it doesnt work, so it looks like ill have to change the transistor.

grantspain · « **Reply #60 on:** March 01, 2010, 05:17:49 pm »

another thing that can cause the colour issue is the lm1203n ic on the neck card

marshall · « **Reply #61 on:** March 02, 2010, 12:01:13 pm »

I can't seem to find that transistor in either maplin, farnell or rs, do you know who supplies them or an equliverlant?

lilshawn · « **Reply #62 on:** March 02, 2010, 01:39:28 pm »

try and swap around those transistors first... if your colors move to another, its your problem...and yes those lm1203 chips do go bad...and can cause dim colors/dead colors...swapping the transistors will eliminate the lm1203 as the colors will stay the same.

an nte171 will work in place for the BF859

marshall · « **Reply #63 on:** March 04, 2010, 02:59:38 pm »

Ive changed the transistor with no effect, the colors are not dim/dark and Im thinking its more of a set up problem now as its not showing black, more like red.

lilshawn · « **Reply #64 on:** March 04, 2010, 06:57:58 pm »

supposedly you are able to set the monitor black level as follows...

1: leave monitor turned on for 10 mins.
2: remove video signal
3: set the cut off pots for the red green and blue to obtain a voltage of 180v on the COLLECTOR of associated colors transistor..
4: adjust contrast to minimum and brightness to maximum
5: adjust the screen on the flyback to get a just barely visible raster scan
6: eliminate the predominant color by turning down that cutoff color until the raster is gray

should the brightness increase following the adjustment, turn down the screen on the flyback a little until the raster is barely visible again. repeat 6

marshall · « **Reply #65 on:** March 05, 2010, 02:24:39 am »

Thats great, thanks.

Which pin on the transistor is the collector?

lilshawn · « **Reply #66 on:** March 05, 2010, 09:00:58 pm »

for a to-220 case BCE... Base Collector Emitter... viewed left to right with the printing facing you

but some packages are different, sometime you will have an oddball, best to check the datasheet for you transistor here...it's free and they have nearly everything:

www.alldatasheet.net


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