Author Topic: Offering drilled (hollow) shafts for Joysticks (Read 10967 times)

Luigi · « **on:** July 15, 2008, 04:16:23 am »

I'm offering hollow shafts made of stainless steel for several joysticks. You can then put wires through and place a LED on top so you can light up a transparent bubbletop

I found a company that makes them in small numbers.....but I always have to buy 20 pieces of each. So if you have other joysticks and want shafts for them, please understand that I have to ask and find other people who like them.

For now I have shafts for the follwing types of sticks:

Sanwa JLW-TM-8
Sanwa JLF-TP-8YT
Seimitsu LS-32 (also fits into standard sticks...see picture below)

Standard-Joystick in many cabs

For further information please visit my site: http://www.thludwig.de/arcade/led_sticks.html

Shipping to USA is 8€ (~$12)

Attached is an example of the hollow LS-32

Twin-X · « **Reply #1 on:** July 16, 2008, 01:13:25 pm »

Quote

Sanwa JLW-TM-8 (they seem to fit into U360, too....I will know in a few days)

Yes they fit!!

Thanks for the glow sticks

They arrived today

Luigi · « **Reply #2 on:** July 16, 2008, 01:20:04 pm »

Quote from: Twin-X on July 16, 2008, 01:13:25 pm

Quote
Sanwa JLW-TM-8 (they seem to fit into U360, too....I will know in a few days)

Yes they fit!!

Thanks for the glow sticks
They arrived today

Hi.

Thanks for the information

I think we should say that due to the fact that the hollow shafts are made of stainless steel....they are not magnetic !! So when using them with a U360 this is something to solve $:-\$

Franco B · « **Reply #3 on:** July 17, 2008, 01:20:29 am »

Quote from: Luigi on July 16, 2008, 01:20:04 pm

I think we should say that due to the fact that the hollow shafts are made of stainless steel....they are not magnetic !! So when using them with a U360 this is something to solve $:-\$

http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=78652.0

http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=76255.msg838147#msg838147

Luigi · « **Reply #4 on:** July 17, 2008, 01:26:15 am »

Thanks Franco.

erm....I just saw that you offer those hollow shafts, too. Sorry, I didn't want to break into your business

I don't know the U360 sticks.....Jeffry saw the sticks and thought they would fit. Well, they seem to fit.....I hope he can solve the problem.

Franco B · « **Reply #5 on:** July 17, 2008, 01:49:15 am »

No problem Luigi. If I didn't want anyone to make them then I wouldnt have done the how to guide for retroblast.

Hopefully Jeffry should be able to mod his. If not, I will be sending him stuff this week anyway so Ill send him some modified ones of mine and get him to send me yours back in return.

Luigi · « **Reply #6 on:** July 17, 2008, 02:35:38 am »

Franco.....did you find 3mm RGB-LEDs with a connector for each colour?? I only could find 5mm....

I guess the problem with the rotating stick and the wires isn't solved yet...or did I miss something?

Franco B · « **Reply #7 on:** July 17, 2008, 04:37:16 am »

Ive not really looked for 3mm LEDs (apart from a quick google just now). As you know you can get 3mm RGB flashing/colour changing LEDs but they only have two cathode/anodes in them, I think that it must be hard for manufactures to get four cathodes/anodes in a 3mm to make them independently controllable.

Bender did solve the rotating stick issue by using the audio jack (a'la Slickstik) method, I think he (or someone else) also extended the distance between the shaft and PCB so he could still maintain the correct distance between the magnet and PCB.

I've been looking for some audio jacks and sockets but I can't find any. I don't suppose anyone knows where you can get suitable ones from similar to the Slickstik method? Two/three pole ones are all im after. I asked Bender where he got his but the ones he used were some old stock he had and he couldn't find any more

Luigi · « **Reply #8 on:** July 17, 2008, 04:42:41 am »

Most of the pictures are blocked here at work, I'll have to take a look in the evening.

I still don't understand the audio jack thing....well, it works with the jack in the bottom of the shaft and the (somehow fixed) plug going straight into the jack so it can rotate and still has contact.....but there's the little PCB and the magnet under the shaft and you cannot use an angled jack because of the rotation.....maybe I'm too blind (or dumb) to see and understand $:-\$

Franco B · « **Reply #9 on:** July 17, 2008, 05:02:37 am »

I found the picture I was thinking of and it was Bender. He made some 'U' shape brackets to move the PCB away from the joystick so that the audio jack mounted magnet is the correct distance from the PCB.

Here is a pic of his setup, apologies if you cant see it right now.

Luigi · « **Reply #10 on:** July 17, 2008, 05:17:52 am »

Boah......that's great

Hell, I didn't have an idea how the U360 works

Is it really sensing (is that a word???) the position of the magnet?? But as I understand it's not meant for rotating when coming from Ultimarc.....that's what Bender did.....right?

But the angled audio jack should be fixed, shouldn't it??

Thanks for the pic , it helped a lot

Twin-X · « **Reply #11 on:** July 17, 2008, 07:23:07 am »

Thorsten,

I think Franco is looking for this:

http://www.minute-man.com/acatalog/4_Conductor_2_5mm_Cables.html

The 4 conductor will let us use a RGB led.

I think 2,5mm is the right size ads 3,5 would be too big.

Franco,

That plug in the picture looks more like a 2 wired AC pluc am i correct?

Luigi · « **Reply #12 on:** July 17, 2008, 07:55:10 am »

I see.....didn't know there were audio jacks/plugs with 4 conductors.

I still wonder how the jack is attached to the shaft.....maybe when I see all of Benders pics

There's a 4-conductor plug in Germany, too.....@ conrad.de....1,91€

Franco B · « **Reply #13 on:** July 17, 2008, 08:02:46 am »

The problem that has been bugging me is to get a socket down the shaft for the jack to plug into. The e-clip groove diameter is 5mm and so the maximum size the socket OD can realistically be is 4mm. I'm not sure how Bender managed it but he did somehow

I have been having a bit of a think this morning and I have come up with a solution which will suffice my needs.

Since the e-clip groove is the thing causing the problem, I'm going to remove it completely. This gives me the whole 9mm of the shaft OD to play with. I'm going to drill and tap a thread in the bottom of the shaft for one of these coax power socket to screw into:

I can then just use a small washer between the knurled end and the end of the threaded shaft (where the nut is in that picture) to act as the e-clip which will keep the spring in compression and will keep the shaft in place.

Obviously the coax sockets and plugs are only two poles so that limits me to one colour but that's fine for me. Ill keep having a dig around to see if I can find a four pole version or another solution.

Sorry if this is de-railing too much Luigi!

Luigi · « **Reply #14 on:** July 17, 2008, 08:47:52 am »

No problem...I love such kind of discussion

But I think we should switch over to Benders thread......if he doesn't mind

If I only had such a U360 in my hands and could take a look at it....but it's too expensive just for that

Luigi · « **Reply #15 on:** July 17, 2008, 09:10:31 am »

OK, can anybody get his hands on one of these?

What is the diameter of the thread?

I also thought of removing the e-clip gap and give the shafts the maximum of diameter (what fits though the stick from above). Then the bottom of the shaft is hollow and has a thread to allow the jack to be screwed inside the shaft. For replacing the e-clip you could use a ....erm.....

What about that?

OK, the problem would be to find a jack that is thin enough for the 9mm-shaft $:-\$

edit: I attached a picture that shows what I mean...

Franco B · « **Reply #16 on:** July 17, 2008, 10:31:34 am »

Yeah thats the setup I was thinking about.

I had a major calculator malfunction tho

, that socket I posted wont fit as the OD is about 11mm.

I don't think the jack you posted will be small enough either, there is a similar version on the page that Twin x posted and the OD on that is also around 11mm

The data sheet PDF is [here] if you want to have a look but it doesnt give any relative dimension for the jack you are looking at.

I think we may have a problem finding a 4 pole socket under 9mm

The problem is that the shaft has to slide through the joystick from the top.

A-HA!!!!!!

Actually, if we used an larger e-clip or similar in place of the retaining collar in the center of the shaft we could make a shaft with a larger bottom section to hold a 4 pole socket!

Kinda like this (paint skillz ahoy!):

The shaft would then enter the stick from the bottom and you would put the e-clip in place. It may mean we have to modify the spring retainer (or make a replacement) to keep the jack inside the body of the joystick (so not as to make it any longer) but its definitely possible.

Twin-X · « **Reply #17 on:** July 17, 2008, 10:40:49 am »

Why not tap the outside of the shaft (and shorten it) and tap the inside of the bigger tube to fit it over the original shaft. Shorten the spring retainer and the outer shaft can be the clip that holds the bottom of spring.

I hope i am making sense.

Luigi · « **Reply #18 on:** July 17, 2008, 11:15:38 am »

Quote from: Twin-X on July 17, 2008, 10:40:49 am

Why not tap the outside of the shaft (and shorten it) and tap the inside of the bigger tube to fit it over the original shaft. Shorten the spring retainer and the outer shaft can be the clip that holds the bottom of spring.

I hope i am making sense.

erm...I'm not sure if I understand what u mean

Franco's idea is brilliant: instead of removing the e-clip gap we place it in the upper half so the shaft doesn't fall through.....simple and brilliant...the hollow shafts are your baby, Franco...so go on

If you start making those shafts it would make sense for make them for 4 pole sockets....if people only need two wires....ok but they have the opportunity to "upgrade" without replacing the whole shaft.

Franco B · « **Reply #19 on:** July 17, 2008, 11:55:55 am »

Cheers buddy, It seems like it should work. Ill get working on a prototype this week. I emailed Calrad earlier today about their UK/Euro distributors so ill get hold of a couple of sockets and have a play. I'll let you know how I get on.

Twin-X · « **Reply #20 on:** July 22, 2008, 04:03:40 am »

I have not been able yet to mess around with my new shaft.

But i took a picture of a disasembled u360.

Luigi · « **Reply #21 on:** July 22, 2008, 04:20:19 am »

aha.....so how do you plan to get the magnet to the shaft with the wires coming out from the bottom??

Twin-X · « **Reply #22 on:** July 22, 2008, 04:39:45 am »

Making an insicion on the side of a few millimeters so the wires will come out sideways.

But i have some other idea's too, i am not rushing and i want to see Franco's outcome on this.

Franco B · « **Reply #23 on:** July 22, 2008, 08:07:12 am »

Yeah thats what I did on somunnys shafts. I milled a 2mm slot into the e-clip groove. If you use small enough gauge wire they fit in the e-clip gap.

Im going to redo somunnys shafts though if my solution works. I would rather him have them tangle free.

Im ordering some parts as I speak for the jacks/plugs etc, I should hopefully have something in a week or two after the parts arrive. I love working on stuff like this so I really want to get cracking on it. Ill let you know when I have made some progress.

Twin-X · « **Reply #24 on:** July 22, 2008, 08:17:25 am »

Looking good Franco.

Can't wait to see the outcome.
For the tangle free option is that because you wish to add the rotary function to it?

Too bad there does not exists a electric ice balltop.
Now i probabbly have to replace all my buttons for translucent ones.

Franco B · « **Reply #25 on:** July 22, 2008, 08:53:27 am »

Its mainly to stop the wires from breaking as it does not take much force to break the solder joints if the joysticks get twisted but yes its necessary if you wanted to add rotary function.

lettuce · « **Reply #26 on:** July 28, 2008, 12:02:39 pm »

Let me know how that goes franco, would love to light up my bubble tops on my U360's

lowlifefalcon · « **Reply #27 on:** January 18, 2009, 03:35:00 pm »

are these shafts w/leds installed still being made by anyone?

CheffoJeffo · « **Reply #28 on:** January 18, 2009, 06:01:40 pm »

I would love a pair of 4" long shafts (a la Robotron) for Wico leaf joysticks -- those, with lighted translucent leaf buttons would make for the greatest CP for a Williams Multigame!!

Luigi · « **Reply #29 on:** January 19, 2009, 03:53:38 pm »

Quote from: lowlifefalcon on January 18, 2009, 03:35:00 pm

are these shafts w/leds installed still being made by anyone?

I still have some JLF/JLW/LS-32 shafts.....and in a few weeks for Happ Super.....

Luigi · « **Reply #30 on:** December 11, 2009, 01:35:08 am »

Took a while to test them but now the LED-sticks are available for Happ Super and Competition

Pics in gallery http://www.thludwig.de/arcade/galerie/index.php?gallery=LED-Sticks:

kronic24601 · « **Reply #31 on:** June 27, 2010, 01:37:20 am »

Super old thread ... but ... I'm curious, does anyone know of the "right" 2.5mm Stereo Jack to buy for installing in these?

Was thinking of this? But it's kinda large ... http://shop.vetcosurplus.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=7002

Is there anything anyone knows of that is smaller?

Luigi · « **Reply #32 on:** September 22, 2010, 09:33:26 am »

Finally I can offer controllable 5mm-RGB-LEDs (common anode for use with LED-Wiz), prepared to fit into the balltop. Including wires and resistors (120 for green/blue, 100 for red). 5 Euros/each + shaft and balltop (if needed)

Franco B · « **Reply #33 on:** September 23, 2010, 04:11:58 am »

Good work Luigi

What did you do in the end? I did some ones for Haruman and I ended up making a shaft with a 5mm bore, M8 thread and opened the thread in the bubble tops out to M8.

Luigi · « **Reply #34 on:** September 23, 2010, 02:17:36 pm »

I tried some things to have the connectors inside the thread but it always ended with damaged isolation of the wires and so there was a short and some LEDs didn't work or even died.

So I tested how deep I can drill the balltop and finally had the LED sit on top of the thread

Of course the LEDs have to be modified so they fit into the balltop.

Luigi · « **Reply #35 on:** September 28, 2010, 02:01:33 pm »

Since people keep asking me I have to point out that I NEVER had hollow shafts for U360 !!

With the wires coming out on the side you have to take care of the fact that some people twist the stick while playing.....don't know how to avoid that.

push2reject · « **Reply #36 on:** September 29, 2010, 01:44:37 pm »

PM sent!

Mr.Ian · « **Reply #37 on:** October 08, 2010, 10:24:51 pm »

PM Sent

sham69 · « **Reply #38 on:** October 21, 2010, 09:14:53 am »

I sent a pm also.
I am fairly new to this stuff but have a quick question.
I am in the process of buying 2 seimetsu ls32's.
Can I buy these, get the shafts from luigi and install the led myself?
I will be using 2 blue bubble tops with a white led hopefully.
I read somewhere that the bubble top might need to be drilled aswell?
any advice appreciated.
I basically want to add 2 blue led seimetsu's to my setup.
Thanks
Sham.

Luigi · « **Reply #39 on:** November 10, 2010, 01:26:42 am »

I'm sorry for the delay people. Haven't had much time recently.

I have only a few JLF-shafts left.

@push2reject: I might have two JLW-shafts that were ordered but never paid...I'll take a look.

www.arcadeshop.de should have some LS-32 shafts left...he bought some of them from me a while ago.

@sham69: of course you can do them on your own. Just solder two wires to the LED (cut the connectors to 3-5mm) and isolate them with shrink tube. YES, the balltops MUST be drilled! There has been a batch of them with open thread so the LED would shine through without drilling (if you put the LED completely inside of the thread!!). Otherwise you have to drill them (3.2mm) to make room for the LED. Be careful not to damage the thread!!

You can see a picture of two balltops here...one drilled, the other one not.

http://www.thludwig.de/arcade/galerie/index.php?gallery=LED-Sticks&image=gewinde_offen_gebohrt.jpg


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