Author Topic: JIMBO's scratch designed cab [motorised monitor rotation begins] (Read 55808 times)

Jimbo · « **Reply #40 on:** October 02, 2007, 06:35:04 pm »

Well as I wrote in my last post that I'll post updated plans soon, I fired up sketchup and exported the latest plans. Here's how its shaping up...

...compared to the first version:

Still a little more tweaking to do tho...

Anubis_au · « **Reply #41 on:** October 03, 2007, 02:08:47 am »

Quote from: Jimbo on October 02, 2007, 06:25:55 pm

The more I think about it the more I want it motorised, so I'm gonna pop down my local electrical store later and get some advice. If I have it motorised it will solve the "how do I actually rotate this thing" issue

Jimbo, let us know how you get on with your research. I'm currently investigating how to motorise the rotation also, and will share any findings.

In my research I came across this site for a motorised monitor rotation. You may find it useful:

http://lillypad.4mg.com/lillypad/extraspad.html

The main thing that I get stuck on is how I would physically couple a motor with the rotating plate. The solution I linked above uses a caster wheel and seemed to work, but I wonder if it would have the grip to turn the circle... and then I thought, what about if the circle was routed and t-molding placed on it, then there would be rubber-rubber contact with the motor (assuming the same caster wheel "interface") - does anyone have an opinion on whether there would be enough friction there to enable the circular plate to be moved? Just thinking out loud here...

Anubis_au · « **Reply #42 on:** October 03, 2007, 02:09:54 am »

Jimbo, I like the new cab shape. The CP looks much nicer in the second design than in the original... my $0.02.

danny_galaga · « **Reply #43 on:** October 03, 2007, 05:37:45 am »

very good, very good. anything with a rotating monitor gets my attention (",)

hbm*rais · « **Reply #44 on:** October 03, 2007, 09:21:58 am »

Jimbo,

I like the previous design (28 august) better. The new one is an improvement on the first version, but I think the long curve at the sides of the monitor seem a little out of place. I like the straight lines and small radius curves of the second design.

Anyway, it's just my opinion.

Yours is one of the most interesting designs around here lately. Keep the good work.

Jimbo · « **Reply #45 on:** October 15, 2007, 05:32:44 pm »

OK, so no more building since last post because the only place I have to work on the cab is our garage, which is crammed full of shed panels for the next couple of weeks. Once the shed is put up, the garage is MINE and building can resume!

There's still been some progress though... Since I can't build right now, I thought I might as well try and improve the sketchup plans. Here's the latest design, which I *hope* will be the final one...

The cab's framework has also had a bit of attention: The monitor is now 100% supported by the timber frame (it was partially supported by the side panels up till now), the side panels have been tweaked, and the keyboard draw has gone. Although the timber frame may seem overkill, the rotating monitor is REALLY heavy, and I don't want to take any chances. At least it will be sturdy!

There's also been an advance in the "how the bloomin' hell am I gonna rotate this thing" dept. I've been toying with attempting to motorise the rotation (after a couple of suggestions by fellow BYOAC members) so I started a thread here to get some more advice (interesting reading!). In the end a mechanic friend of mine donated a 12V DC car power-window motor, so hopefully I'll be able to get that working using a rope/pulley system or a sprocket/cam-belt system. I'll keep you posted as I progress. The immediate task for me is to get a 12V power supply, test the motor works, and sort out the electrics so I can rotate the monitor in both directions with a single push-button.

Jimbo · « **Reply #46 on:** October 17, 2007, 01:42:34 pm »

Quick update. I went to our local glassworks today and got a sample of their tinted glass. They do 2 types, one "bronze", and one "grey". Unfortunately they didn't have a sample of the grey one but the bronze one looks pretty sweet when held up in front of my arcade monitor (see pics). I'll be needing something around 28" square, which prompted them to say 6mm would be the recommended thickness, and that it would have to be toughened safety glass (the company's main trade is double glazing windows).

They'll be getting back to me with a price in a day or two. Hopefully they'll also have a sample of the grey tint.

Sorry for the quality of the pics, looks much better in real life

hbm*rais · « **Reply #47 on:** October 17, 2007, 04:19:32 pm »

It looks really great, but won't bronze shift the colors toward yellow or something? I think gray is normally used because is more "neutral".

I use 6mm gray glass on mine, the ordinary kind, not toughened or safety glass (not really needed in my case). It looks fantastic. I think you'll be very satisfied with the results.

Jimbo · « **Reply #48 on:** October 17, 2007, 06:02:24 pm »

Yeah I guess it might "bronzify" the colours a bit, but I don't currently have the grey sample to compare it with. I certainly didn't notice a yellowish tint when testing it out with my monitor earlier.

I'll wait till I've seen the comparison anyway before making a decision.

theCoder · « **Reply #49 on:** October 17, 2007, 08:53:51 pm »

You can always tweak your monitor settings if the colors are off.

Anubis_au · « **Reply #50 on:** October 17, 2007, 10:52:43 pm »

That tinted glass makes SUCH a difference...

Jimbo, where are you getting the glass cut / quoted?

Jimbo · « **Reply #51 on:** October 18, 2007, 06:11:49 pm »

Quote from: Anubis_au

Jimbo, where are you getting the glass cut / quoted?

Shepway Glass

I'll probably try and check out a few other places before committing tho.

Jimbo · « **Reply #52 on:** October 22, 2007, 02:12:25 pm »

That power window motor is turning out to be more trouble than its worth. The casing is glued on, the circuitry is virtually impossible to get to, and so far I can't get an ounce of power out of it, plus it reeks of magnetism. NEVER FEAR! Today I ripped out the motor, trigger and direction switch from an old 12V electric drill I had hanging around. This looks like it will work much better. Its a more convenient shape for mounting, it has the clamping part that I can connect the "spindle" to for rotating the monitor, it has a variable speed, enough power/torque, and a direction switch. With the spindle attaching to the drill I'm thinking that maybe Cornchip's rope-pulley idea will now be the easiest to implement.

I'm going to try over the next few days to get it working with power and microswitches to limit the rotation in each direction to 90 degrees. I'll keep you posted as usual with lots of pics!

ARTIFACT · « **Reply #53 on:** October 22, 2007, 11:02:26 pm »

Go Jimbo!!!

The "ARTIFACT Game Museum" is doing great here, putting in the hours of play each day

Checking your progress! Keep the pics coming

Anubis_au · « **Reply #54 on:** October 23, 2007, 01:26:21 am »

Jimbo, a slight thread hijack, if you'd indulge.

What size castors are you using with your rotating plate / seat system?

I ask, because here in Sydney, I've gone to the biggest hardware house (Bunnings) and the smallest castor wheels I've found have a total height of 64mm. The base plate was 67mm x 35mm in size.

You add that 64mm separation to 2x 18mm thick wood and that's a 10cm rotation mechanism... far too wide. From your pics, it seems your castor wheels are alot smaller than the ones I've found so far.

Alternately, can you remember where you got your castors from?

Jimbo · « **Reply #55 on:** October 23, 2007, 01:37:14 pm »

The castors I'm using are these. The base plate is 45mm x 20mm, the total height is 35mm. I'm sure you can find a smaller caster than the one you mentioned... maybe try some smaller local hardware stores?

Also, you mentioned 10cm rotation mechanism because of the added 2x18mm wood... on my frame I am only mounting the casters onto one piece of 18mm ply, and I cut round the 2nd piece so as to keep the "height" as small as possible (you can just see this in the pic).

Anubis_au · « **Reply #56 on:** October 23, 2007, 09:35:45 pm »

The 100mm of total depth for the rotating mechanism I mentioned was 18mm for the circular rotating plate, 18mm for the back plate, and 64mm for the separation with the best casdtors I've found so far. I did realise that you cut off the edge of the middle, second supporting plate so the separation was not increased.

The thing is, the castors you found in the UK have a total height of 35mm, almost HALF of the height for what I found here. I need to find smaller castors. In my cab, space is going to be at a higher premium than yours due to a smaller cab size. I'm going to keep on looking but I may end up ordering from your place in the UK, if it comes to it...

superbigjay · « **Reply #57 on:** October 24, 2007, 12:57:43 am »

Hello Jimbo, have you look in the MAIN forum, there's a nice post on how to automate your screen rotation?
Jay

Jimbo · « **Reply #58 on:** October 24, 2007, 08:40:12 am »

@anubis: ah yeah, I see what you're talking about now

If you can't get any smaller castors PM me and maybe I can send some over from the UK

@superbigjay: thanks for the heads up - enlightening post!

I'll be reading up on the h-bridge stuff with relish!

Anubis_au · « **Reply #59 on:** November 01, 2007, 01:52:46 am »

As I wrote elsewhere Jimbo, thanks heaps for the offer to send over some castors.

My mate is coming home from London for a friend's wedding in a fortnight, and he is bringing twelve of these castors (three packs of four) with him.

In the meantime, I'm using the dimensions you supplied to CAD the cabinet up.

Thanks again. Also, looking forward to seeing the latest progress with your build.

Jimbo · « **Reply #60 on:** November 01, 2007, 04:59:57 pm »

Progress update!

The garage is almost empty now, but I couldn't wait so started to cut some timber for the vertical frame. Check out that space I have! Luuurvely! The shed panel, bicycle and ladders should be gone in a few days so I'll have a bit more room soon. Can't work outside after work anymore as its dark, wet and cold... ah the good old British winter!

I have the 4 vertical timber pieces for the frame all cut now, but just need to sand them down to exact size (I cut them slightly larger than my sketchup measurements).

Should also have some news on the motor/drill front soon.

Oh and I got a sample of the grey tinted glass at last. It's slightly better than the bronze sample - it doesn't modify the screen colours as much, although its not that dark. Unfortunately they don't do a darker tint than the sample they gave me - and I'm not sure its dark enough for my liking, so I'll try and get some more samples from elsewhere. At least I now know I want grey and not bronze.

That's it for now!

Bender · « **Reply #61 on:** November 01, 2007, 09:49:28 pm »

Could you use two peices of glass, or would that be too dark?

Great work with Sketch up
this project was one of the insparations for me learning skech up do layout my cab
Thanks!

DaOld Man · « **Reply #62 on:** November 02, 2007, 07:01:48 pm »

Great work Jimbo..
You are giving me many ideas for my rotating screen project.

Jimbo · « **Reply #63 on:** November 07, 2007, 05:13:27 pm »

The other half went to have her hair done tonight so I had some time for more building!

Worked on the frame tonight, got both sides done (apart from the diagonal bits that brace the monitor). In the end, to keep the frame more sturdy and less susceptible to warping I decided to only use timber for the 4 legs - for everything else I've used 18mm ply.

First up, I clamped the legs together and sanded them to exactly the same length. As you can see, one of the legs needed quite a bit of sanding...

SIDE 1

After contemplating for a while how I was gonna keep the frame accurately proportional I decided the easiest way was to use the cab's plywood base as a guide for the legs. I used clamps and a large T-square to make sure both legs were at right angles to each other and the floor. Each leg was clamped to the exact edge of the base...

Aligning using the plywood base really helped and soon I had both braces glued and screwed...

SIDE 2

To ensure both sides were the exactly the same, I clamped the legs of side 2 to the first side, making sure everything lined up exactly...

The bottom brace glued and screwed, so on to the top one...

THE RESULT!

I clamped the 2 sides together to see how accurately matched they were, and they were virtually dead on! Me happy!

...

I couldn't resist arranging the sides how they would be when done, and balancing the monitor frame on top of it.... It was a really cool moment actually standing in front of the real thing for the first time. For the first time I could actually see and feel what its going to be like when its done!

More following soon!

Anubis_au · « **Reply #64 on:** November 07, 2007, 10:20:23 pm »

Jimbo, looking good!!!

So what's the first game you will play when the cab's complete?

Jimbo · « **Reply #65 on:** November 08, 2007, 06:18:28 pm »

Quote from: Anubis_au

So what's the first game you will play when the cab's complete?

Hmm I think I'll be playing games on the cab waaay before its complete.

First game will probably be Flying Shark, my favourite!

A little more work on the cab tonight. I wanted to get the top of the frame's legs cut so that I could insert the vertical monitor/cp support piece when I fully assemble the frame. You can see what I mean in the following pic...

So first off I clamped the two sides together and marked where I wanted to cut. I needed a recess of 50mm deep and 18mm wide (the monitor support piece is 18mm ply)...

Using my sawboard and circular saw I set it to the maximum depth (it wasn't deep enough but I'll get to that). Here you can see the first edge cut and all aligned to cut the second edge...

After they were cut I was left with this....

So with the aid of my electric drill and a coping saw, I cut out the remaining timber to the 50mm depth....

I cut the width slightly less than 18mm because I want the support piece to sit tight and snug... when I come to "fit" it, I'll sand it down until it fits right, then screw it in from the front.

Might get some more done at the weekend!

Jimbo · « **Reply #66 on:** November 11, 2007, 04:25:01 pm »

More work on the frame today... its nearly done now

First off I got the bottom panel of the cab's back in place (the bit where I will be placing a couple of intake fans). I clamped together the top and middle ends of the frame so I knew it would be accurate and "square"...

Next up, I turned the frame over and glued/screwed the middle back brace - again using a clamped brace at the top to ensure squareness...

Attaching the base came next. I figured this would be a good starting point for adding the brace just under where the CP will go...

Once the base was on, the casters were next!...

After adding the front CP brace it was all looking good so far!

...

The next bit was a pain. The gaps I left for the vertical monitor supports weren't wide enough, so after trying to sand it for a while (hmmmmm...) I got fed up and used a hacksaw to "open the wound" so the support panel would fit...

After a couple of other small panels were attached, I finally called it a day. Lots done today but still loads to do. I'm really glad and relieved that the frame didn't end up wonky. It really pays to measure twice and keep everything as accurate as you can!

More soon!

Anubis_au · « **Reply #67 on:** November 11, 2007, 08:03:21 pm »

Jimbo, looking awesome!!! Can't wait for the next installment.

Jimbo · « **Reply #68 on:** November 12, 2007, 05:55:55 pm »

A little bit more progress! I cut out the holes for the bolts then attached the monitor to the circular frame...

Next I sat the rotating monitor on the cab's frame and checked that the cab is deep enough (I was scared it wouldn't be but I should put more faith in Sketchup!) It fits nicely...

The last bit of the frame to do was the 45 degree angled monitor supports/braces...

I put one more brace across the top/back of the frame to keep it square and sturdy. Here's the latest full-shot pics:

The coin mech/door arrived today from Ultimarc, along with 2 x U360s. I've also bought 2 quiet 120mm fans for airflow and a small 4-port USB2 hub to mount to the front of the cab under the control panel. I'm going to play around with the U360s and try the circular restrictor plate and harder spring. I'm not one for long throws as I don't play a lot of fighters, but I'll see what feels best.

More soon....

Anubis_au · « **Reply #69 on:** November 12, 2007, 08:48:34 pm »

Jimbo, that looks awesome! So cool to see it taking shape.

Jimbo · « **Reply #70 on:** November 17, 2007, 07:32:17 pm »

My aim today was to attach the CP seat, get the top and bottom bits of the monitor unit done (so that its ready to accept the glass), and I wanted to get the cab's front panel mounted.

First off, the CP seat (swappable CPs will sit on this, attached by bolts with wingnuts tightened underneath)...

Next, to complete the rotating monitor unit construction, I used some jointing clamps (very useful!!) to secure the top piece, and a piece of beading for the bottom piece. The glass will rest on these (tinted of course

)...

Since I got the coin door and my little 4-port mini USB2 hub, I wanted to get the front panel mounted. I needed to cut out the top bit with a jig so it sits flush with the CP base...

Nice and snug

...

I used the jigsaw a lot today! When cutting the hole for the USB hub that sits just under the CP, I got a bit trigger happy on the jig (must be all the excitement I guess) and overran the edge of the rectangle. Oh well, another bit to fill before painting..

Finally got to try out my router!!! I bought this SEVEN YEARS ago (that's how long I've been planning to build this thing!). It's pretty cool... I tried it out on some scrap plywood first. Basically there wasn't enough room for the USB lead to connect to the hub, so I routed 5mm or so and all was good...

One more hole to cut: the coin door! This was pretty straightforward... more jigging (scoring first with a knife really helped prevent splitting the top layer of ply)...

Damnit I want to play on this thing already!!

Next up is the side panels, and the motor for the monitor rotation. Stay tuned!

Jimbo · « **Reply #71 on:** November 18, 2007, 02:07:00 pm »

Went to B&Q today and got the plywood for the cab's side panels. If I could get both side panels cut today then I'd be happy!

I figured the easiet way to measure and cut the first panel was to lay it flat and lay the cab frame sideways on top of it. This way I had a physical guide as well as my sketchup dimensions - just for a sanity check to make sure I didn't make any wrong cuts. 2 clamps were enough to keep it solid while I measured the outline for side 1...

The protractor came in handy for ensuring I was cutting the top part of the sides at the correct angle, and I used a compass for all the curved corners...

I scored the entire traced outline with a knife before cutting. The jigsaw saw a lot of action today!

Once the first side was cut I clamped it to the second piece of ply and traced around the edges with a pencil, before scoring and cutting...

With the sides on (they're just clamped on here temporarily) I'm starting to get a feel for what the finished product is going to look like!

I still have to sand the 2 sides to make sure they are exactly the same, so I'll probably do that tomorrow. The cab needs to be "take-apart-able" so right now I'm thinking of using bolts to attach the side panels, and using dowels/velcro to attach the top pieces (speaker/marquee panels)... unless someone can suggest something better...?

I never thought it would be such fun building a cab... although I am getting impatient to get it finished. I keep telling myself 'one step at a time'. I'm happy I'm making good progress though... and so far *touch wood* no major hiccups!!

javeryh · « **Reply #72 on:** November 18, 2007, 09:50:31 pm »

Nice job! If you have access to a router and a flush or pattern bit you can make an exact copy in 5 minutes with no sanding necessary!

Anubis_au · « **Reply #73 on:** November 18, 2007, 09:55:31 pm »

Jimbo

Nice progress. The cab's really coming together, and it's looking damn good.

Can't wait to see how you do the motorised rotation.

I definately need to get cracking on my cab!!

Jimbo · « **Reply #74 on:** November 19, 2007, 04:22:23 am »

Quote from: javeryh on November 18, 2007, 09:50:31 pm

Nice job! If you have access to a router and a flush or pattern bit you can make an exact copy in 5 minutes with no sanding necessary!

Thanks a lot

Damnit I wish I'd known about that before cutting! Oh well, I'm new to this router stuff... you learn something every day!

Quote from: Anubis_au on November 18, 2007, 09:55:31 pm

Nice progress. The cab's really coming together, and it's looking damn good.

Can't wait to see how you do the motorised rotation.

I definately need to get cracking on my cab!!

Cheers Anubis... Will hopefully have some news on the motor soon... and YES! Please hurry getting on with your cab!! I want to see it!!

Jimbo · « **Reply #75 on:** November 21, 2007, 01:23:53 pm »

I had a spare half an hour or so at lunch time today so I drilled the holes in the side panels and attached them to the cab's frame using coach bolts. One of the requirements of the cab is that it can be moved easily, so I've decided not to glue/screw the side panels. These 12mm coach bolts are pretty cool looking once they are on. I got some large washers to protect the wood, and I needed to buy a 12mm 'flat wood bit' for cutting the holes. The router also got some use today, routing out the square bit at the top of the bolts so they sat nice and snug on panel face.

Here's the first side panel done and attached...

And here's some shots of both panels bolted on...

There will be another bolt at the top once I get the marquee/speaker panels done, and I'm toying with whether to put one on the sides of the control panel too - although this will make it a bit more of a pain to swap panels, so I'm not sure yet.

Oh, and I ordered the marquee retainers today!

javeryh · « **Reply #76 on:** November 21, 2007, 01:42:22 pm »

I can't really tell from the pics but please say you are countersinking the bolts and not leaving the tops exposed. You can drill down about 1/8" or whatever the thickness of the heads are and then fill the gaps with wood putty, sand until smooth and paint over it. It would be a shame to have all of the heads exposed (even if you do paint them to match the sides).

Looking good though!!

Jimbo · « **Reply #77 on:** November 21, 2007, 04:28:01 pm »

Hi javeryh

Thanks for the feedback!

To be honest, I never even thought about countersinking the bolts - I just thought they might look kinda cool on the finished cab (depending on the theme of course). If I were to countersink them, are you suggesting that I glue them to the side panels, so the only moving parts are the washer and nut (on the inside)? The reason for bolts in the first place was because I can foresee having to move the cab around a fair bit, so the sides coming off easily is a major plus in that respect. And please excuse my ignorance... I've never done this kind of thing before!

Anubis_au · « **Reply #78 on:** November 21, 2007, 05:37:39 pm »

Jimbo, are you saying the side panels have to come off to fit this cab through a standard door?

Jimbo · « **Reply #79 on:** November 21, 2007, 06:11:20 pm »

Not exactly, no. It's 28" wide, the doors in my house are 29" wide... We're doing up our house though, and in the future it may need to go upstairs, and for that to happen, the sides will definitely need to come off.


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