Author Topic: Mini Dragon's Lair from scratch (Read 16312 times)

amadama · « **on:** June 02, 2007, 12:17:40 am »

Hi everyone,
I have been collecting arcade games for a while now but never got around to building my own cab. I realized that one game I really loved was Dragon's Lair and always wanted to have one. I also wanted something small enough that my young daughter could play too. I started building a four foot tall (2/3 scale) Dragon's Lair.
Here's a pic of where I am today with this little guy.
I have been making lots of mistakes along the way. The biggest ones were the weird shape for the marquee and the monitor brackets. But, I'm learning.
Can anyone suggest how I should proceed with the Control Panel? I would like to make it out of sheet metal but I have no idea how to properly cut it (15 3/8" wide), bend it and drill the holes and mount it properly! Maybe I can make it out of wood?
Suggestions and comments are very welcome!
Thanks,
Alex

KenToad · « **Reply #1 on:** June 02, 2007, 12:31:40 am »

Looks good. I'd like to see more details and pics, maybe a little explanation of how you solved the marquee problem.

Nice work.

amadama · « **Reply #2 on:** June 02, 2007, 12:39:03 am »

Hi KenToad,
The marquee wood is cut at weird angles because both side (top and bottom) are at angle to each other and not perpendicular. They are also three sides instead of straight like most other games. I used the measurement pics on Jakobud's website for inital cutting and assembly. My first mistake was in the calculations I made to scale by .67 (2/3). I had to recut some pieces. Then when I tried to make the weird angles I messed up again and made them too steep. More cutting. Finally I had to use some trial and error. In the meantime I got a real Dragon's Lair machine and used that as a reference point.
I wish I would have taken more pics along the way. I also wish I had made some templates since now I would like to build some more of these cabs (the next one I will make some templates!!).
Here are a few more pics that illustrate what I meant above:
Alex

treborlicec · « **Reply #3 on:** June 03, 2007, 02:47:43 pm »

You can go to a local sheet metal shop and have them cut, bend and put the holes in it for you.

You will end up paying more for the labor than the metal, but worth it for a quality job.

Robert

amadama · « **Reply #4 on:** June 04, 2007, 08:16:56 am »

Hi Robert,
Thanks for the suggestion. I have already asked two metal shops to do this kind of work and both have refused (they said I would need to order a minimum of items, 20 for one, 100 for the other!). I'll keep on checking other places.

leapinlew · « **Reply #5 on:** June 04, 2007, 08:54:23 am »

Quote from: amadama on June 04, 2007, 08:16:56 am

Hi Robert,
Thanks for the suggestion. I have already asked two metal shops to do this kind of work and both have refused (they said I would need to order a minimum of items, 20 for one, 100 for the other!). I'll keep on checking other places.

Thats what we are seeing here too. They just don't want to mess with it.

Havok · « **Reply #6 on:** June 04, 2007, 09:19:07 am »

Quote from: amadama on June 04, 2007, 08:16:56 am

Hi Robert,
Thanks for the suggestion. I have already asked two metal shops to do this kind of work and both have refused (they said I would need to order a minimum of items, 20 for one, 100 for the other!). I'll keep on checking other places.

Offer to build them a cab..

theCoder · « **Reply #7 on:** June 04, 2007, 10:23:55 am »

Quote from: amadama on June 02, 2007, 12:17:40 am

Can anyone suggest how I should proceed with the Control Panel? ...

I'd go with wood. It is more forgiving, and mere mortals have the means to work with it. A lot of people have done great write-ups on the topic. I'd recommend the following:

5/8" plywood with a 1/8" Plexiglas top.
3/4" tmolding that holds the Plexiglas in place.
Artwork done in Photoshop, or other graphics tool, printed either at a local print shop or one advertised at this site.
Artwork sandwiched between the plywood and Plexiglas.
Drill holes in plywood to match the artwork! Not the other way around.

Good luck with it.

MameMaster! · « **Reply #8 on:** June 04, 2007, 10:41:16 am »

THAT'S TOTALLY COOL!.......post more photos as you move forward!

javeryh · « **Reply #9 on:** June 04, 2007, 10:47:00 am »

Quote from: theCoder on June 04, 2007, 10:23:55 am

Quote from: amadama on June 02, 2007, 12:17:40 am
Can anyone suggest how I should proceed with the Control Panel? ...

I'd go with wood. It is more forgiving, and mere mortals have the means to work with it. A lot of people have done great write-ups on the topic. I'd recommend the following:

5/8" plywood with a 1/8" Plexiglas top.
3/4" tmolding that holds the Plexiglas in place.
Artwork done in Photoshop, or other graphics tool, printed either at a local print shop or one advertised at this site.
Artwork sandwiched between the plywood and Plexiglas.
Drill holes in plywood to match the artwork! Not the other way around.

Good luck with it.

Coder speaks the truth. This is exactly how I would proceed.

Very nice little cab there too - I love the minis for some reason... maybe it's because there's the chance of getting the kids into arcade games. I can't wait to see this one all finished.

amadama · « **Reply #10 on:** June 04, 2007, 12:05:04 pm »

Well, I'm not going to build an entire cab just to get a control panel (but nice suggestion anyway!)
I think wood is the way to go here too. I will not be using plexiglass or t-molding as the artwork actually wraps down to the front side of the control panel (and I want to leave it that way too so it looks just like the real Dragon's Lair).
The artwork is done, I printed it on adhesive vinyl and sprayed matte clear-coat acrylic on it (I did the same for the side art, came out very nice).
Here are my remaining items:
Control panel
Final Marquee (I just have a paper dummy in there now)
Speaker/scoreboard panel
Install back door
Buy, cut and install smoked plexi
Put in PC with Dahpne on it (and Dragon's Lair HD for PC too!)
Play games with my daughter!
More pics to follow!
Thanks everyone!
Alex

CheffoJeffo · « **Reply #11 on:** June 04, 2007, 06:51:55 pm »

That is a thing of beauty ...

amadama · « **Reply #12 on:** June 04, 2007, 10:01:00 pm »

Hi guys,
I am back in business with the metal CP! I bought some heavy duty tin snips and it cuts the sheet metal like butter!! I got some metal hole drill bits and hope to finish it up by the weekend (like many of you folks, I only get to work on it less than 30 minutes per day (if that!)).
The metal is kind of thin (20 ga) so I think I will put some ply under the wood for reinforcements. Pics to come soon!
Thanks guys!!
Alex

amadama · « **Reply #13 on:** June 04, 2007, 10:17:05 pm »

Can anyone recommend where I can get smoked plexiglass? And what type should I buy? I have only ever purchased clear plexi.
Thanks again guys,
Alex

KenToad · « **Reply #14 on:** June 05, 2007, 08:58:02 am »

Homebrewed metal CP's are one of the most uncommon projects around here, so definitely document and share the process.

Lookin' good.

Kaytrim · « **Reply #15 on:** June 05, 2007, 09:13:40 am »

Quote from: amadama on June 04, 2007, 10:17:05 pm

Can anyone recommend where I can get smoked plexiglass? And what type should I buy? I have only ever purchased clear plexi.
Thanks again guys,
Alex

I used a 20% automotive tint kit on my bartop plexiglas. It is rather dark so I would recommend using the 35% as it is lighter. Be sure to get the application kit as well, makes installing the tint much easier and you'll have a better end result.

TTFN

Kaytrim

javeryh · « **Reply #16 on:** June 05, 2007, 09:23:37 am »

I would recommend going with smoked/gray GLASS - not plexi. It might cost a little more for the glass but it's worth every penny, IMO. Plexi can scratch and just doesn't look as crisp as glass does. The screen is the most important part of the cabinet!

Also, if you aren't dead set on a metal CP, I put an overlay on my latest CP that rounded to the front and I made the CP entirely out of MDF. Here's how I did it. Hope that helps.

Kaytrim · « **Reply #17 on:** June 05, 2007, 09:27:53 am »

Quote from: javeryh on June 05, 2007, 09:23:37 am

Also, if you aren't dead set on a metal CP, I put an overlay on my latest CP that rounded to the front and I made the CP entirely out of MDF. Here's how I did it. Hope that helps.

Forgot I did the same thing on my bartop. I used a belt sander to round off the MDF. You could also use a router with a round over bit as long as the wood is at 90 degrees.

TTFN

Kaytrim

amadama · « **Reply #18 on:** June 05, 2007, 12:18:58 pm »

javeryh, that is a fantastic job you have done with your machine! The control panel looks great. I will attempt that as well as the metal one and see which works out best.
The main reason I want to use metal is because of the shape of the control panel.
Here's a pic of Darth Nuno's Space Ace control panel (very much like the Dragon's Lair CP)
You can see how the top curves upward at an angle.
It would not be the end of the world if I cannot recreate this though, so if I get too frustrated with the metal, MDF it shall be!
As kentoad suggests I will be documenting my metal CP build and will post the pics.
Also, javeryh and kaytrim, I would prefer to use plexi over regular glass because I am building this for my daughter and don;t want any mishaps in case it falls over (or crumbles for that matter! Remember, this is my first build!).
I am not using a CRT but a 15" LCD for this very same reason.
Thanks again guys,
Alex

Kaytrim · « **Reply #19 on:** June 05, 2007, 12:32:29 pm »

Very good reason to use plexiglas. I use it for the same reason. I spend $20 on my automotive tint and application kit at AutoZone. Nice thing about this is that it will be spread out over several cabs because there is enough in those kits to do a whole car. I have heard from some that the tint material doesn't stay stuck to plexiglas too well over time. I don't know about that yet so time will tell.

Kaytrim

amadama · « **Reply #20 on:** June 05, 2007, 01:23:06 pm »

kaytrim,
I assume the tinting film is placed on the "underside" of the plexi right?
Also, how hard is it to put on smoothly without bubbles?
I would still like to find some smoked plexi.
Thanks again,
Alex

Kaytrim · « **Reply #21 on:** June 05, 2007, 01:33:02 pm »

The application kit I purchased included a spray bottle, razor knife and squeegee. Cut the tinting film slightly larger than your plexi. Then you spray both the plexi and the tint with the soap like liquid and use the squeegee to push out any trapped air bubbles. After a little practice it is rather easy to do. Just be sure you clean the plexi first. Any dust or dirt will get trapped when you apply the tint.

TTFN

Kaytrim

shardian · « **Reply #22 on:** June 05, 2007, 01:56:12 pm »

Quote from: Kaytrim on June 05, 2007, 12:32:29 pm

Very good reason to use plexiglas. I use it for the same reason. I spend $20 on my automotive tint and application kit at AutoZone. Nice thing about this is that it will be spread out over several cabs because there is enough in those kits to do a whole car. I have heard from some that the tint material doesn't stay stuck to plexiglas too well over time. I don't know about that yet so time will tell.

Kaytrim

Well, your cabinet will not be subjected to the harsh temperature changes and UV exposure that car window tinting is usually subjected to, so I wouldn't worry too much about the tint going bad.

amadama · « **Reply #23 on:** June 05, 2007, 04:11:41 pm »

I may give the tinting film a shot this weekend (I'll still continue my search for smoked plexi).
Thanks,
Alex

Mr. Greenjeans · « **Reply #24 on:** June 05, 2007, 06:44:02 pm »

Home Depot also has a tint. It is for tinting windows and glass doors in your home. Very forgiving stuff to work with, and its available in lots of tint levels and roll sizes.

amadama · « **Reply #25 on:** June 05, 2007, 10:25:07 pm »

Hi Mr. Greenjeasn.
Darn, I was just at Home Depot today! I am really starting to dislike that place. It takes me forever to find anything in there. I went to Sears yesterday and in minutes I had everything I was looking for. They also have a much larger selection of router bits too.
Alex

ark_ader · « **Reply #26 on:** June 06, 2007, 08:17:53 pm »

Cool project and it is looking good.

I'm on track with my own mini DL or Space Ace ( I cannot decide which) and I think your project is giving me more enthusiasm to get mine finished on time.

I wish I could get a metal panel like yours for my project, but the closest I can get to material wise is aluminium. So wood is key I guess. How did you figure the marquee? Did you get the plastic surround or was it anchored by slots?

Going to make it a Daphne cab or house a CDI in there?

Keep up the good work and those pictures are very nice!

I'm waiting for permission to reproduce my artwork from Don and Gary and to show it here like you did.

I cannot wait to see your project finished! I'm using car tinting on plexi for mine and the results are looking good. I lucked out on some old VDU glare screens from the thrift store and they fit very well so check on Ebay if interested going that route.

Hope it helps.

Regards,

amadama · « **Reply #27 on:** June 06, 2007, 09:51:38 pm »

Hi ark_ader,
Cool that you are also building a mini DL! Please post pics of your progress so far so we can compare notes.
The metal panel I showed above is not my mini-CP, I just posted it as an example of what a real (bare) CP looks like with the angle on the top.
You can get sheet metal at most hardware stores. I bought mine (an 18"x12" piece from Home Depot). You can use aluminum as long as it is thick enough but that me fairly expensive. A wooden CP would probably be just fine.
The machine will run Daphne and Dragon's Lair HD for PC (as well as Space Ace HD and DL2 HD when they are available).
The marquee pieces I figured out at first using Jakobud's diagrams and then I ended up getting a real DL machine (seen in the first pic above).
Good luck with your project. (make your machine a DL!! Then build a dedicated Space Ace mini!!)
Alex

amadama · « **Reply #28 on:** June 09, 2007, 10:19:30 pm »

Minor updates:
Monitor is in
Control panel cut to width (prepping for hole drilling, in pic just roughing button placement, those are not the final buttons or joystick!)
Alex

Steve · « **Reply #29 on:** June 10, 2007, 08:24:06 pm »

Any chance of you posting up the plans ? I'd like to make one too.

Looks AWESOME by the way.

amadama · « **Reply #30 on:** June 10, 2007, 08:36:29 pm »

Hi Steve,
Thanks for the nice comment.
I got the diagrams from here:
http://www.jakobud.com/

As I said before, I wish I had made some templates before buidling this one as I'd like to build more of them. Oh well, next time....
Good luck with your build.
Alex

Steve · « **Reply #31 on:** June 12, 2007, 06:06:12 am »

Yeah, I built my Space Ace from those plans (full size) but I meant the plans for the mini version.

Looks awesome, are you going to run Daphne ?

Steve

amadama · « **Reply #32 on:** June 12, 2007, 08:20:11 am »

Hi Steve,
I took the diagrams from Jakobud and multiplied everything by .67. That's about it. Made it easy and I was able to use a single sheet of 3/4" MDF for the entire machine. I eyeballed the monitor and CP position. THe hardest part was getting the marquee portion becasue I did not take into account the thickness of the MDF!
The little machine will run Daphne, Dragon's Lair HD and some mame stuff as well.
I'd love to see how your full size Space Ace came out!
Alex

amadama · « **Reply #33 on:** June 12, 2007, 09:43:07 pm »

I started working on the metal CP:
Tools used were:
Dremel (for pilot holes)
Drill with 1 1/8" metal hole saw
Aviation shears ("tin snips")
Wood blocks for putting under metal while drilling and then for bending metal (I used scraps of MDF)

amadama · « **Reply #34 on:** June 12, 2007, 09:45:03 pm »

Now to figure out what best position to mount it before I buff it and apply primer: (I may have to move the monitor a bit)

Kaytrim · « **Reply #35 on:** June 12, 2007, 09:49:34 pm »

A metel punch would have done the same thing as the dremel. I would suggest that you take a file to those holes or you will be cutting your hand all over the place.

Looking good so far. Keep us posted.

TTFN

Kaytrim

amadama · « **Reply #36 on:** June 12, 2007, 09:58:26 pm »

Agreed, a hole punch (or even a small philips head screwdriver) could have been used, but I just love my dremel (and it didn't occur to me at the moment!).
Yeah I will clean up the whole thing (filing all the sharp spots) before I paint and apply the CPO.
Here's a pic with some dummy buttons and joystick (not what will be used in the final one!).

Anubis_au · « **Reply #37 on:** June 16, 2007, 08:00:29 pm »

I'm just wondering why no-one's mentioned the treasure trove of arcase machines in the background of your first pics.

Is that an original Dragon's Lair, Space Ace and Pacman? What other gems do you have?!

(I actually drooled a bit when I saw the pic).

amadama · « **Reply #38 on:** June 16, 2007, 09:46:32 pm »

Hi Anubis_au,
You are pretty observant!
Yes, those are original Dragon's Lair and Space Ace machines.
I also have a Dragon's Lair II
What looks like a Pac-man is actually a Mr & Mrs Pac-man pinball.
I also have the following:
Popeye
PunchOut!
Baby Pac-man
Street Fighter II (actually a Konami Jamma cabinet with a bunch of Jamma boards in it)
NeoGeo 2 slot
Tempest
Millipede (cocktail)

Work is almost complete on the metal Control panel! I had to take it easy becasue I was real busy at work lately. Pics tomorrow!
Thanks,
Alex

amadama · « **Reply #39 on:** June 18, 2007, 10:34:28 pm »

Minor update to metal CP. (first pic)
Second pic is of real Dragon's Lair CP for comparison.
Still may trim top a little bit.


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