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Author Topic: Pixelbox  (Read 66525 times)

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vrf

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Pixelbox
« on: February 17, 2006, 07:51:53 pm »
Currently spending much of my free time designing a micro MAME/console box. It's a mini-itx based system, and will be about 13" tall. One unique thing is that I'm going to have the case cut out of white (or maybe black) acrylic.

Anyhow, which profile and joystick setup do you like better?



« Last Edit: June 10, 2006, 03:28:14 am by vrf »

NiteWalker

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Re: Which profile and CP do you like?
« Reply #1 on: February 17, 2006, 08:15:18 pm »
The design on the left looks a lot easier on the eyes because of the soft curves. It will also be easier to install t-molding. The one on the right looks more old school. As for the button layout go with the bottom design. It's more universally compatible especially if you plan on playing fighting games.
« Last Edit: February 17, 2006, 08:45:41 pm by NiteWalker »



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Re: Which profile and CP do you like?
« Reply #2 on: February 17, 2006, 08:25:15 pm »
I echo NiteWalkers opinions.

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Re: Which profile and CP do you like?
« Reply #3 on: February 17, 2006, 09:01:10 pm »
Yup, the design on the left looks better IMO.  As for the controls, is this going to be a Mame machine or console machine?  If your planning on almost exclusively playing consoles then go with the top one, but if you plan on playing any 6 button mame game, go with the bottom one (personally I'd go with the bottom one since it'll work with more games)

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Re: Which profile and CP do you like?
« Reply #4 on: February 17, 2006, 09:40:09 pm »
ditto

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Re: Project RGB: Which profile and CP do you like?
« Reply #5 on: February 18, 2006, 02:03:20 am »
Leftie looks best :) Also reminds me allot of what I did :D

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Re: Project RGB: Which profile and CP do you like?
« Reply #6 on: February 18, 2006, 06:04:29 am »
Both nice designs. I think I'm leaning toward liking the more angular cab just because the other one looks so familiar. The angular one is reminding me of an old console computer, like a TRS-80, and that's a fresh look for a bartop cab and appealing to me.

Definitely like the second control panel layout better.

Edit: Did you chose your joysticks already? That slim panel might limit your choices.

markrvp

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Re: Project RGB: Which profile and CP do you like?
« Reply #7 on: February 18, 2006, 10:53:36 am »

Edit: Did you chose your joysticks already? That slim panel might limit your choices.



Yeah, my first thought was that your control panel is too close to the bottom.  You need at least 2-1/4" clearance between the bottom of the CP and the top of the base material.  I did a mockup below to show you what I mean.  I used 3/8" as the thickness of your Acrylic.

vrf

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Re: Project RGB: Which profile and CP do you like?
« Reply #8 on: February 18, 2006, 11:39:52 am »
Thanks for the comments, guys. I'm using a Sanwa stick (with mini balltop), along with the mini Sanwa buttons, so I can get that clearance down to 1 1/2". I like the slim panel idea for a desktop/bartop cab. I'd like the player's arms to rest on the table like they would using a laptop computer, instead of hovering in the air like you see on a lot of bartops. Brydo's slim Sanwa-based joysticks were my inspiration. (I may have to get one piece of metal cut, though, for this to work.)

For the CP, I guess the consensus is the more generic MAME layout. I suppose that makes sense. I don't want to sacrifice comfort and playability. Still, wouldn't the console-centered one work pretty well for all but six-button fighters? (And even then, since the CP is so small, the hands are approaching at pretty close to the correct angle to hit all six.)

As for the profile, I was leaning towards the angular one. (But I was going to soften the corners a bit.) Seems more unique, although I admit I'm pretty indecisive. I have several variations that I've considered. Here are two more if you're interested:



Maybe I'll just throw a dart at a thumbnail printout and see what happens...  :)
« Last Edit: February 18, 2006, 11:50:35 am by vrf »

vrf

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Project RGB
« Reply #9 on: February 20, 2006, 07:57:50 pm »
I was able to sqeeze a mini-trackball on the CP without adding too much to the size. (Am I crazy to cram all this in a 9.5" x 6.5" control panel?)




And I think I've settled on a boxier profile. Easier to fit everything in at square angles.



Oh, and I think these will be my speakers. Creative Travelsound 500. (They're meant to clip onto the top of a laptop.)

« Last Edit: February 21, 2006, 08:35:34 am by vrf »

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Re: Project RGB
« Reply #10 on: February 21, 2006, 05:49:36 pm »
red yellow green blue....not blue green.  seriously. roy g biv anyone?

but other than that, it looks cool, although in real life it might not all work well with such a full panel.

vrf

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Re: Project RGB
« Reply #11 on: February 22, 2006, 10:24:04 am »
Good catch! (Although I would hope I'd have caught it once it came time to snap the buttons in place.)

Anyhow, I did some quick-n-dirty mockups tonight to get a feel for the box. One thing that was bothering me was wondering if the joystick ball would partially obstruct the LCD. It doesn't, thankfully. (Unless the player is very short.)







I think I'm going to cut the case out of black acrylic now, like in the last picture. The white will be from the sideart and CPO.

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Re: Project RGB
« Reply #12 on: February 22, 2006, 10:54:42 am »
Where do you get your black acrylic?

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Re: Project RGB
« Reply #13 on: February 22, 2006, 11:13:19 am »
Anyhow, I did some quick-n-dirty mockups tonight to get a feel for the box. One thing that was bothering me was wondering if the joystick ball would partially obstruct the LCD. It doesn't, thankfully. (Unless the player is very short.)

I think you're underestimating how much room controls need under the panel.  I don't think you'll be able to get the trackball that low on the CP and your last two buttons towards the edge of your CP seem to be outside the wall of your cabinet.  These could be due to your renderings not being exact measurements or maybe the renderings are just playing tricks on my eyes.

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Re: Project RGB
« Reply #14 on: February 22, 2006, 12:48:22 pm »
Lookin good so far. How long did it take you to make those renders? What program did you use? Stuff like that makes the planning stages go a lot quicker...



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Re: Project RGB
« Reply #15 on: February 22, 2006, 04:37:15 pm »
Anyhow, I did some quick-n-dirty mockups tonight to get a feel for the box. One thing that was bothering me was wondering if the joystick ball would partially obstruct the LCD. It doesn't, thankfully. (Unless the player is very short.)

I think you're underestimating how much room controls need under the panel.  I don't think you'll be able to get the trackball that low on the CP and your last two buttons towards the edge of your CP seem to be outside the wall of your cabinet.  These could be due to your renderings not being exact measurements or maybe the renderings are just playing tricks on my eyes.

For sure. Going to need more depth, and maybe 3/4" all the way around that trackball. Trackballs are like icebergs.  ;D

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Re: Project RGB
« Reply #16 on: February 22, 2006, 05:40:02 pm »
From the pictures and Mockup it looks like a very small trackball, maybe a mouse trackball? ripping one of those apart and adapting it shouldnt take much room at all. That maybe waht he is already planning?


Clok

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Re: Project RGB
« Reply #17 on: February 22, 2006, 09:52:32 pm »
Thanks for the advice, guys! The 3D mockups are very rough. No precise measurements at all, although they were close enough to give me a general idea of how the box will look.

My 2D drawings are more precise, and I think this design can work, although I may be underestimating the amount of space that the wiring will take up. I've not commited to a trackball yet, but the one in this drawing is a Happ 1.5" " mini trackball:



Here are the measurements:



So... I'm still in the concept stage, but it seems like it'll work. Once I order the trackball (whichever one I decide on), then I can see more clearly how everything will fit. (Since the box will be cut with a laser, I need to have all my components before I draw up the final design.)

As for the questions: 1) the mockups were modeled in Maya and rendered in mental ray. They were literally a 30 min job, so they're pretty sloppy. 2) Where I get the acrylic will depend on who I have cut the case. I have a couple of shops that I've contacted, one local (Taiwan) and one in the States. There are some others, too, that I'll probably shop my CAD file around to for a price. (I just found out that Tap plastics also does laser-cutting.)

Thanks again for your comments! You guys are probably right that I'll need to go a little bigger with the design, but I'd like to keep it as small as possible. ;D

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Re: Project RGB
« Reply #18 on: February 22, 2006, 11:08:41 pm »
Looks like a good project.  Keep us posted on the progress.

markrvp

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Re: Project RGB
« Reply #19 on: February 22, 2006, 11:46:53 pm »
That's going to be really neat.

vrf

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Re: Project RGB
« Reply #20 on: February 23, 2006, 10:53:09 am »
It's like Christmas when the parts start arriving.  :)








« Last Edit: February 23, 2006, 10:56:29 am by vrf »

vrf

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Re: Project RGB
« Reply #21 on: February 26, 2006, 10:39:37 pm »
Spent more money this morning...  :'(

I ordered the Lilliput 8" VGA LCD, as well as the speakers. (My speakers are now going to be the Tritton Soundbite that has a mini-subwoofer in it. It'll be a little trickier to fit this in my case, but it's cheaper and has better bass response than the Creative Travelsound.)

Piddled around with the CP layout some more. Looks like I'll have to rotate the joystick and maybe the trackball as well in order to have room for the wiring. It's going to be snug in there, for sure.



I also roughed out a couple ideas for a CPO. While I do like the clean white look in my earlier drawings, it seems most arcade cabs have darker colors on the control panel. Here's one attempt:



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Re: Project RGB
« Reply #22 on: February 27, 2006, 05:05:28 am »

red yellow green blue....not blue green.  seriously. roy g biv anyone?


I'm gonna bail you out on this one, vrf.  You meant those colors because you were thinking of component video, right?  RIGHT?  ;)

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vrf

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Re: Project RGB
« Reply #23 on: February 27, 2006, 07:53:06 am »
tell me I didn't make that mistake again...

 :o

ugggghhh.... I did....

But yeah.... component video. That's it. Totally intentional.

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Re: Project RGB
« Reply #24 on: February 27, 2006, 10:02:58 am »
The simple graphics of the overlay look nice to me.  I'm not a big fan of busy, graphically cluttered overlays.  Oh, also, if you're meaning your 4 color buttons to be Neo-Geo, it's red, yellow, green then blue.  ;)

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Re: Project RGB
« Reply #25 on: February 27, 2006, 11:14:44 am »
i think most arcade cabs use dark colors since white get's dirty so easily.  also, that dark control panel rocks.

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Re: Project RGB
« Reply #26 on: March 01, 2006, 10:11:34 am »
Thanks for the comments, guys!

One continuing challenge is trying to get everything squeezed into this box and still have it function somewhat like a full cab. I'd like everything to be powered by the PSU (so I don't have to try to fit a smart strip in there.) The carputer LCD runs off the PSU; the Tritton speakers are USB-powered; and I think the lighting is going to be a couple of cold cathode tubes (molex connections). It's getting harder to find the small ones in white (what case-modding fan wants white, afterall?), but I found some at the Cooler Guys:

http://www.coolerguys.com/4inccfl.html

Marquee will be about 9" wide and 2" inches tall, so the two 4" tubes in a kit should go the length pretty well. But it seems like those who've tried CCFL tubes have found them a good solution in terms of power and temperature, but dimmer than a regular flourescent light. So... maybe I need four CCFL tubes?

Maybe I'll just order two kits, then. (Nice thing is that they're only $7.)
« Last Edit: March 01, 2006, 10:24:18 am by vrf »

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Re: Project RGB
« Reply #27 on: March 01, 2006, 05:38:21 pm »
Anyhow, I did some quick-n-dirty mockups tonight to get a feel for the box.
Wow, where did you find that game, the polygon count looks awesome :)

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Re: Project RGB
« Reply #28 on: March 05, 2006, 10:43:55 pm »
:) Yeah, I just used the picture from the ex-audio site. I'll try to post real pics tomorrow when the LCD arrives. It got hung up in customs for a couple of days.

I ordered the Happ 1.5" trackball this weekend. Ponyboy saved me a nice chunk of change compared to the Happ's retail price.

Here's another CPO mockup. (Yes, there's a little nod to the NES in there...)



« Last Edit: March 06, 2006, 12:07:37 am by vrf »

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Re: Project RGB
« Reply #29 on: March 07, 2006, 11:22:35 am »
LCD arrived today. Cute little bugger. I'm quite impressed with the image quality, too. Not "arcade authentic" I suppose, but still really nice. (I've never really been impressed by the blurring of pixels anyway. I say, render 'em sharp. Enjoy their beauty.  ;D)








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Re: Project RGB
« Reply #30 on: March 07, 2006, 01:10:37 pm »
This little cab looks hot!
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Re: Project RGB
« Reply #31 on: March 07, 2006, 03:10:58 pm »
OMG look great  8)
where did you found that little lcd ?

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Re: Project RGB
« Reply #32 on: March 07, 2006, 10:08:27 pm »
Thanks! I bought the Lilliput LCD from Extreme Audio Electronics, a Hong Kong store. (Thanks, Quarterback, for steering me away from Logicsupply.) These little things are usually used in car computers.

Use ebay if you go with ex-audio. Their service is better there--probably because of ebay's feedback system. (Some users at the MP3Car forums have had bad experience when just using their online store.)

Anyone know how to get one of these running off of an ATX power supply?


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Re: Project RGB
« Reply #33 on: March 07, 2006, 10:17:40 pm »
Thanks! I bought the Lilliput LCD from Extreme Audio Electronics, a Hong Kong store. (Thanks, Quarterback,

Sho' nuff! :)

Quote
Anyone know how to get one of these running off of an ATX power supply?

Mine's running off an ATX power supply in my car.  I just spliced the LCD's power jack into a molex connector to get the 12v DC from the PS.   

I don't have the Lilliput, but it should be just as easy.  Just make sure to test with a multimeter so you don't burn anything out by getting your wires crossed.

Oh, the only other thing is you have to jumper the pins on the ATX power supply's motherboard connector to get the powe supply to turn on without a motherboard.  I can't remember which ones, but a Google search should help you out.
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Re: Project RGB
« Reply #34 on: March 08, 2006, 01:00:39 am »
Ok, I'll have to do a little homework (and pick up a multimeter) before I start splicing wires. I'm a bit of a noob when it comes to things electrical. But this looks like it won't be too bad.

I had been wondering, actually, if something like this would work:



http://www.crazypc.com/Merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=120199&Product_Code=5408

Quote
Oh, the only other thing is you have to jumper the pins on the ATX power supply's motherboard connector to get the powe supply to turn on without a motherboard.

I'm not clear on this one. Why wouldn't this cab be like a regular computer, where I can turn the power on from a motherboard switch? Or are you suggesting I just use the PSU power switch as my power switch for the whole cab? (Good idea.)

quarterback

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Re: Project RGB
« Reply #35 on: March 08, 2006, 01:05:29 am »
I'm not clear on this one. Why wouldn't this cab be like a regular computer, where I can turn the power on from a motherboard switch? Or are you suggesting I just use the PSU power switch as my power switch for the whole cab? (Good idea.)

Sorry, I lost track of where I was :)

I was trying to think of every possible thing that might be a problem and that popped into my mind because if you were using an ATX Psupply withOUT a computer (like I am) you have to jumper some pins or it won't power up.

Of course, you ARE using a computer (duh!) so this shouldn't be an issue.  Sorry :)
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quarterback

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Re: Project RGB
« Reply #36 on: March 08, 2006, 01:11:34 am »
Ok, I'll have to do a little homework (and pick up a multimeter) before I start splicing wires. I'm a bit of a noob when it comes to things electrical. But this looks like it won't be too bad.

It's pretty easy.  The standard Molex connector has  4 wires.  The two blacks are grounds, the red is 5v and the yellow is 12v.   All you need is to splice into the yellow and a black and you should get your 12volts to run the monitor.

That being said, you should definitely pick up a cheap multimeter somewhere just in CASE (for some unknown reason) your wire colors are switched.   Also to determine the polarity of the monitor plug.

Quote
I had been wondering, actually, if something like this would work:



http://www.crazypc.com/Merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=120199&Product_Code=5408

I've never seen something like that, but it looks like it's just separating the 12v and the 5v out to two mini power plugs.  iSo something like that should work just fine.... but you'll still have to splice something unless you have a mini-power-plug-extender to get the 12v plug to fit into the power jack of your monitor.
« Last Edit: March 08, 2006, 01:15:06 am by quarterback »
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quarterback

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Re: Project RGB
« Reply #37 on: March 08, 2006, 01:14:22 am »
I just got something like this:




Snipped off one of the ends, taped up the end of the red wire and taped up the end of one black wire.  Took the yellow and the other black and spliced them into the correct power plug to fit into my monitor.
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Re: Project RGB
« Reply #38 on: March 08, 2006, 01:19:52 am »
Cool! Thanks for the detailed help!

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Re: Project RGB
« Reply #39 on: March 08, 2006, 01:34:29 am »
Cool! Thanks for the detailed help!

No prob.

I'm not sure where you're located, but HarborFreight (www.harborfreight.com) is famous for their $4 multimeter (which is sometimes $6) It should be enough to get you through something basic like this.

When you get your multimeter, you should check the polarity of the power plug that came with your monitor.  Take the existing plug (AC wal wart?) plug it into the wall but don't plug it into your monitor.  Instead take your multimeter leads and put one into the tip of the plug and touch the other to the outer shell.  You should either see "+12v" or "-12v" depending on whether or not the tip is positive or negative (and depending on which lead you touched to which part of the plug). 

You basically just want to make sure that your new rigged-up-plug is wired the way it should be.  So if the center of your existing plug is the +, you want to make sure the center of your home-made-plug is the same.  Does that make sense?

If you have any confusion or questions, you should ask somebody.  The last thing you want to do is to fry your new LCD.

EDIT: One other thing, just to be safe.  I'm presuming that your monitor (like mine and like all the ones that I've looked at) runs off of 12volt DC.  You should, of course, confirm that before blaming me for setting your new cab on fire ;D
« Last Edit: March 08, 2006, 01:43:51 am by quarterback »
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