No table saw? Build a $15 Sawboard for your small budget project!

[johnm160]

Well I broke down and made some sawboards today. An 8', 4' and 1' and they work great.

I made the guide portion a little wider since my saw seems to have a rather large motor.

Thanks Drew, now maybe I can cut straight 

[cnlmoore]

I made one of these to help me trim the damaged bottom edge off of a Reactor cabinet.  It worked perfectly and has put my table saw purchase on the backburner, for now at least.    I have pics if anyone is interested.  Thanks for the great idea.

[clockwork]

I just made one of these today. Awesome idea and instructions. I used 1/2" MDF but I think I should have used 3/4". I'm a total woodworking newb, and I think the 3/4" would have been easier. With the 1/2", I had to use 3/4" screws, because the 1" would have poked through the bottom. I screwed up (*snicker*), and had to redo all my holes, but I finally got it together and it looks like it should work. I may remake it after a few uses.

[fixedpigs]

next time use no screws...

wood glue will provide a strong enough bond...

you just have to make sure that no glue squeezes out onto the surface your saw will be on...

[clockwork]

I probably will, but what kind of glue? Is just the normal wood glue (I have some Titebond(?) at home) okay? It'd take quite a bit to glue an 8' sawboard, which I plan to build next.

[NiteWalker]

Normal titebond will work fine. The resulting joint is stronger than wood. No mechanical fasteners are needed. I'd personally use screws alone though, so the parts are replacable if they get cut or damaged.

[DrewKaree]

Now mechanical fasteners are needed.

should read "NO mechanical fasteners are needed"

[NiteWalker]

Thanks for the catch drew. Your superhuman abilities continue to amaze me.

 
Seriously, thanks for the catch.

[jmricker]

  Wonderful. All of these success stories of people making their sawboard and I have to relate how I somehow screwed mine up.

I used a leftover piece of 1/2" MDF for my sawboard. I glued my guide to my base, let it set up, then cut. The first time I cut the blade got away from me a little. I thought thats ok, I'll just back up and try again, thats the beauty of this idea. I ran a couple of passes back and forth and soon I had my base as straight as my guide. I measured to be sure the width was consistent all the way down and it was.

Then I tried some practice cuts with my new sawboard. I made two marks, lined my board up with it, put my saw on the guide, and cut away. A perfectly straight cut except that the cut is a little over 1/16" away from the base and the line I'm trying to cut. I try again and sure enough I get this perfectly straight line that is just a little bit off of the line I measure.

I took a closer look at the saw and my sawboard. When I line my saw up to the guide, I find that there is just a little bit of space between my saw blade and the base of my sawboard. Somehow when I originally cut my sawboard, I managed to cut away more wood towards the guide that I should have been able to.

Oh well, off to the Depot I suppose.

Joel

[patrickl]

I've had that problem too. Whatever the reason, now and then  I manage to cut away more than should be possible and the board gets damaged.

[niki]

Good day

I'm new here so let me introduce myself.

My name is niki, I'm 62, retired already 6 years and woodworking is my hobby for the last 12 years. I live in Poland just because it's cheap here (comparing to "west" Europe).

As an amateur, 45% of my tools is the table saw, the other 45% is the router table and the rest is, circular saw, drill press, sander and drills.

I've seen this post and thought to share with you my saw board (that is called sometimes also CS cutting guide), and the method of marking/positioning.

This is one of two methods (the other one is just a straight edge) and the construction is the same as DrewKaree explained but I'm using "Floor Panels". HDF, Formica on both sides, 15 years guaranty and the saw is "skiing" on it.

As you will see on the pics, I added "sub base" that gives me better control and more important, I can align the blade to the base edge so the saw blade does not "pull" to one side or the other.

I don't like pencil marks so I'm using the knife marking method that is more accurate.

Regards
niki

[NiteWalker]

Good stuff niki.  You're the same niki from woodnet aren't you? You make really nice pic tutorials and this one is very nice as well. Great job and welcome to the forum.  Are you an arcade freak too?

[niki]

Thank you Nitewalker

Yep, the same niki

I’m not an arcade freak but for sure Oak freak, well, in Poland, you through a stone, you hit an Oak tree .

I would like to share with you the other method, that is simpler but, I don’t know if to post it on this thread or a new thread, please advise.

Oh, and BTW, this Router (your avatar)

niki

[AnotherHowie]

One could hypothetically make an accurately cut cab out of a $20 jigsaw and one of these- which is pretty amazing.

I'm a total woodworking newb, but I've just tried exactly this, and even with the base of my jigsaw held firmly against the guide rail, the blade drifts out away from the required edge... is this me (and is there a technique to it?), or is it just that I have a super-cheap jigsaw? Would a 'better' one do the same? or a different blade?

I spent a fun afternoon wrecking a spare piece of plywood while trying each of my router bits though, so that kind of made up for a couple of frustrating attempts at the sawboard. :-) I figured I should have a play and make some mistakes on cheap offcuts before buying the sheet for my cabinet.

[NiteWalker]

The culprit was likely the blade. Cheap blades are prone to drifting. Bosch blades are excellent. That's what I would use.

[DrewKaree]

Jigsaws are also not the ideal tool for this, although they help with some of the cuts you can't finish with a circ saw.

The blade support makes a difference on a jigsaw, as well as what NW mentioned, the blade.  I also believe people tend to push a jigsaw more/faster than they should which contributes to the blade bending.  Lastly, the PROPER blade makes a far greater difference with a jigsaw than with any other saw I've seen.  Read the descriptions on the blade packages to see what they're designed for and pick the one best-suited to WHAT you're trying to accomplish in the TYPE of material you're trying to accomplish it on.

I've used 4 different jigsaws in my life.  I hated the one I originally bought (some Master Mechanice or something like that....whatever True Value's tool line was named), I liked my brother-in-law's DeWalt (although his A.D.D. butt has nothing but a collection of bent blades ), thought the Milwaukee I used was so-so, and REALLY dig MY DeWalt. 

[ChadTower]

My turn... mine is gluing up now.  The base is 1/2" ply and the straight edge is 3/4" MDF.  Both are materials I already had around.

[DaOld Man]

I made a sawboard, and I have to say it is a very good device.
There are two problems I have with mine. (I didnt take time to read this full thread, cause it is long, so these problems might have already been covered, if so I apologize.)
First problem:
I cant use it to cut through two pieces of 3/4" MDF.
The blade wont reach all the way through.
I always cut my side panels both at the same time, so they will match if I screw up a little. I used 3/4" mdf on my sawboard. If I had used 1/2" this might not be a problem.
Second problem:
Sometime during my cutting my skill saw angle got a little off, cutting the sawboard as I made my cut. I was unaware of this whenever it happened.
After a few cuts, I noticed my pieces were not true, one end was a little wider than the other. After much head scratching, I found my sawboard was a little wider on one end than the other, so when I laid the sawboard down and lined it up on my two marks,
The sawboard was actually running at at angle, which made my saw run at an angle. Since you get used to trusting the sawboard so much, I didnt even think to check it until I had checked my saw and double checked my first measurements.
It was only about 1/16" off, but it was still not perfect. Even though some wood putty will fix the crack, you just have to be aware of it, so that all your other panels dont follow the 1/16" error.
That sawboard is now termite food. My next board will be made with the 1/2" foot board, and I will check it's end widths before I make a cut.
Maybe draw a line on the edge of the foot, if the line is disappearing on one end  I know somethings wrong.

[DrewKaree]

Make the base of your sawboard thinner to solve the first problem (hopefully).  It can be as thin as 1/8", which I think would juuuust give you enough blade depth on your saw.  Alternatively, you could cut everything to the proper dimensions with your saw for one panel, and use a router with a pattern bit.  The pattern bit will make an exact copy as well, plus you'll more than likely need a router to add T-molding, so....

I've never understood the second problem, and you're not the first person to bring it up.  I've always kinda pushed on the handle of my saw at a 45, as if I'm trying to keep the entire shoe of my saw against the guide of the sawboard, and then moved the saw forward.  Never have I had this problem, so maybe a few of you guys who have can relate your technique or how you believe this happened

[ScottS]

I've never understood the second problem, and you're not the first person to bring it up.  I've always kinda pushed on the handle of my saw at a 45, as if I'm trying to keep the entire shoe of my saw against the guide of the sawboard, and then moved the saw forward.  Never have I had this problem, so maybe a few of you guys who have can relate your technique or how you believe this happened

I think this is only possible if you've built your sawboard incorrectly. One important point of the construction, which is a bit elusive in your posts, is that you have to make a full-length cut with the circular saw against the sawboard's Guide Ripper. If you position the Guide Ripper over the Base in such a way that it's slightly angled and the trim cut doesn't remove material from the entire length of the base, then you might end up with a sawboard that cuts a slight taper! One way to check this is to push the saw along the sawboard and look at it from underneath. The circular saw blade should be tight against the edge of the sawboard over the entire length of the cut.

[DaOld Man]

I think this is only possible if you've built your sawboard incorrectly. One important point of the construction, which is a bit elusive in your posts, is that you have to make a full-length cut with the circular saw against the sawboard's Guide Ripper. If you position the Guide Ripper over the Base in such a way that it's slightly angled and the trim cut doesn't remove material from the entire length of the base, then you might end up with a sawboard that cuts a slight taper! One way to check this is to push the saw along the sawboard and look at it from underneath. The circular saw blade should be tight against the edge of the sawboard over the entire length of the cut.

I did make the sawboard correctly, or at least I think I did.
The sawboard did perfectly the first few times I used it, I was truly amazed at how good it did.
Only thing I can think of is that the saw blade got a slight angle in it, maybe the bolt that holds the sawblade straight got loose, or I could have laid the saw down hard and knocked the angle adjustment out. If so, when I used the board, the angled saw blade sliced an angle in the board itself, that would make the board run at an angle, when lining up the bottom (foot?) of the board with two marks.
I dont know what happened, but I will follow drew's advice on my next one and make the foot out of thinner material. The saw blade would have to have a gross angle to it to cut much off a very thin foot.

[Zobeid]

I may only be echoing what others have already written, but anyhow here's my experience. . .

I made a sawboard following the original article at the beginning of this thread, but I found it pretty awkward to use.  The guide strip is about the same width as my saw's motor housing, so there was no room left to apply clamps without the saw bumping into them.  Today I am making a new one with an additional two inches of material on the left, which will be the clamp area.

Mine also was the same length as the one described in the article.  The new one I am making a foot longer.  Better too long than too short.

When using the sawboard, it may be helpful to clean the foot of your saw and spritz it with silicone spray lubricant.  It's a dry lube sort of like clear spray paint -- only slippery.  It'll help the saw slide smoothly along.  (It's useful stuff to have around.)

When sawing it's important to keep firm control of the saw and keep it flat on the sawboard, and snug up against the guide piece.  Otherwise you won't get a straight cut, or you may even damage the sawboard.

I'll try to adapt the old sawboard for use with my jigsaw -- which may or may not work, since the cheapo jigsaw doesn't always cut a straight line even when I move it in a straight line.

[ohiojason]

FYI, if you change your saw blade you may need to make a new one of these. Some carbide teeth stick out the side of blades further than others.   

I love these guides, I have for my circular saw depending on which blade I use, and I have several for my router depending on what bit I am using.

[ChadTower]

FYI, if you change your saw blade you may need to make a new one of these. Some carbide teeth stick out the side of blades further than others. 

You won't have to make a new one.  Just run it a couple times along the guide before you use it to cut anything measured.  The teeth will trim out the necessary material.

...of course, that's for moving to a wider tooth.  If you move to a narrower tooth you will have a little play.  How much could that possibly be, though?  A 32nd of an inch at the most?  If you need that much accuracy you're using the wrong methods with a $10 sawboard.

[ohiojason]

FYI, if you change your saw blade you may need to make a new one of these. Some carbide teeth stick out the side of blades further than others. 

You won't have to make a new one.  Just run it a couple times along the guide before you use it to cut anything measured.  The teeth will trim out the necessary material.

...of course, that's for moving to a wider tooth.  If you move to a narrower tooth you will have a little play.  How much could that possibly be, though?  A 32nd of an inch at the most?  If you need that much accuracy you're using the wrong methods with a $10 sawboard.

I am sorry that I bothered everyone with what I thought was a tip, but was actually something that did not need said. I thought that maybe someone might learn from my mistake but apparently it was to obvious.

I am new here, so thank you Chad for letting me know that post like I just made are irrelevant and should not have been said. I will not make this mistake again.

[ChadTower]

I am sorry that I bothered everyone with what I thought was a tip, but was actually something that did not need said. I thought that maybe someone might learn from my mistake but apparently it was to obvious.

I am new here, so thank you Chad for letting me know that post like I just made are irrelevant and should not have been said. I will not make this mistake again.

Erm... there was nothing hostile or sarcastic about my response?   

[Ginsu Victim]

I am sorry that I bothered everyone with what I thought was a tip, but was actually something that did not need said. I thought that maybe someone might learn from my mistake but apparently it was to obvious.

I am new here, so thank you Chad for letting me know that post like I just made are irrelevant and should not have been said. I will not make this mistake again.

Try posting a different time of the month. 

[Beretta]

awesome, thanks.

this thing works great, as long as you take your time lining it up.

even when you think you're making pretty decent cuts this will improve them and it takes like 5 mins to put together out of scape wood.

[patrickl]

BTW, you can buy these things off the shelf and they work a lot better than a home made one.

[Beretta]

how much?

mine was made with a dab of glue, 3 wood screws, wood salvaged from the trash and about 5 mins of my time.

hard to beat the price.. and it's taken my cuts down to within 5/100th's of a inch..
that could likely be my error in measuring or lining up the guide (yes i checked a few cuts with calibers.)

[patrickl]

A 1.4m version is about 40 euro or so.

I made one myself too. Cutting with it was reasonably accurate, but never anything spectacular. Often things would go wrong though. The sawboard easily moves. The saw is not held down so it can easily wobble too. I had trouble clamping the sawboard without getting in the way of the saw itself.

Just got fed up with it and spend the money. It's really much easier and faster to use and the results are a lot better and more consistent. Don't even need to clamp it with the rubber sole and all, but often I do, just to make sure. Clamping it is a lot less work too though.

[bungy]

I made one myself too. Cutting with it was reasonably accurate, but never anything spectacular. Often things would go wrong though. The sawboard easily moves. The saw is not held down so it can easily wobble too. I had trouble clamping the sawboard without getting in the way of the saw itself.

Just got fed up with it and spend the money. It's really much easier and faster to use and the results are a lot better and more consistent. Don't even need to clamp it with the rubber sole and all, but often I do, just to make sure. Clamping it is a lot less work too though.

Sounds like you made it wrong.  I measured the clearance my saw would need before I made my sawboards and my clamps never get in the way.  And it never moves if it's clamped down correctly.

The homemade sawboard is a great accessory for the hobbyist (especially if you're on a budget) and after all, isn't the whole point of this hobby to build things?  Seems like a little more patience would have paid off.

[patrickl]

I didn't build it wrong. The motor just hangs low on the side where it is supposed to rest on the guard.

If you want to build one yourself fine. I'm just saying, you're not saving that much and a metal rail is better and a lot easier to use. Much like you can use a $20 circular saw or a $200 one depending on the project.