Rave Racer

[Mike A]

The wires wrapped in black in the second photo go to the monitor. The power supply picture isn't great, but it lists the standard 5v,-5v, and 12v. It also says aux out 115v 2a.


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[yotsuya]

Are the power wires coming out of the box?

[yotsuya]

Btw, some of the newer monitors had the ISO built in. I have two like that. I bet you’re OK.

[Mike A]

It is a WG25K7195. The manual says an isolation transformer must be used. The label on the power cord also says an isolation transformer must be used. The guy trying to fix this before me replaced the monitor. I think the replacement is older than the machine. I know it is not the factory monitor because the top of the cabinet won't bolt on. The monitor frame is in the way.

[Mike A]

I figured out why the view changed when the wheel was turned. The ffb motor power lead was plugged in where the view change button should have been plugged into the harness. I plugged in the view change button correctly and now everything works except the ffb. I don't see a place to plug it in. It says 90v DC? I am going to look up the schematic. I am new to that so we will see how it goes. It is funny. The motor says McHenry, IL. That is 10 minutes from my house.

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[yotsuya]

There should be a line running off the PS for that.

Or maybe not. It’s been a while since I messed with my racer. But you definitely should see a connector for that.

Follow all the power lines coming off the PS. Also look for any lines or ports coming off the FFB board.

There might also be a transformer just for it, too.

[Mike A]

There is a transformer hiding behind the PCB cage. There are two empty fuse holders. They connect the transformer to the ffb board. I cannot find information on what value fuse to use. How do I determine that?

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[Mike A]

This looks like the schematic for the  FFB transformer, and the motor connection. I run a wholesale warehouse. I have only glanced at schematics a couple of times. I am going to need some hand holding.

The two fuses  are between the transformer and the FFB board. How do I determine what fuses I should use?

I am looking for a better scan of the manual. This one from KLOV is pretty bad.

[jennifer]

    Its hard to see what you got going on in theses pics, But My guess would be one of those fuses goes to the motor, (a continuity test would determine that) And the value of that fues woud be the amp rating off the motor build plate. Although if was up to me, and dealing with old hardware and connections I would up it a tad or use a slow blow....The transformer off the spreadsheet, most likely is the other fuse, but I cant read it, (and klove can smootch my bottom) But would venture to guess that's going to be a ohms law calculation.

[Mike A]

Thanks for the starting point. After work I will do some more digging. The motor plugs directly into the FFB board. I think both fuses are between the transformer and the FFB board. I will make up my own drawing that details precisely where all of the wires go.

[jennifer]

   That looks like a fun project... I am so not jealous at all.

[Mike A]

Thanks. It is pretty cool. My friends all have young kids and they love the racing games. I want to find at least one more Rave Racer because they can be linked for Head to Head racing.

[pbj]

Why do collectors get such a boner for "proper fuse values?"

Stick 20A in those holders, turn it on, and see what happens.  They'll blow before your house burns down.  Once you get it working, put a lower fuse value in there.  Or don't.

[Mike A]

Thanks for the advice pbj. That is why I am posting here. I have a limited background in electronics. I am smart enough to know what I don't know. I know how to use my multimeter to check voltages and continuity. I can solder. I am good at following directions, and I am a decent problem solver. I also own two fire extinguishers, and I know how to use those as well.

[Mike A]

I would still like a resolution to the isolation transformer issue. The monitor is a WG25K7195. It definitely requires an isolation transformer. Right now it is being powered directly by a Peter Chou power supply Model USP-11-200XT. I am just wondering if this power supply provides the same protection as a stand alone isolation transformer. The monitor is not original to the machine. It is a replacement. I believe it is older than the machine.

[yotsuya]

For peace of mind, just buy a iso and wire it in. $30 tops.

http://www.shop.cajunarcade.com/Isolation-Transformer-120-Volt-80-2000-00.htm

[Mike A]

That sounds prudent. That is what I will do unless someone has specific knowledge regarding those power supplies.

[Howard_Casto]

^This^    But if you want to be sure anyway, you'll have to crack open that power supply or find a spec sheet.  I'm not familiar with one that powers the monitor directly, but it's a newer machine, so maybe I'm not the best person to ask.

[pbj]

$15.99 from the Arcade Boneyard.  Those things never go bad, so used is fine.

And don't let that monitor get too isolated or it'll end up smoking cloves and listening to Sisters of Mercy.

[jennifer]

Why do collectors get such a boner for "proper fuse values?"

Stick 20A in those holders, turn it on, and see what happens.  They'll blow before your house burns down.  Once you get it working, put a lower fuse value in there.  Or don't.

  I am pretty sure he is just messing with you, Fuses are there to protect the circuit,  prevent burnt wires, fried boards, and fires. that would be the point....By the time a oversized fuse blows it could be too late.

[pbj]

Too late for what?  He's going to be there watching the thing.  For the purposes of seeing if it actually works, my method is fine.

[jennifer]

Or.... Make more unnecessary problems by using the wire itself as a fuse, until it gets hot enough to melt the insulation off the wires, and create a dead short somewhere, or break down the dialectics of the insulation causing future problems all with the high likelihood of cooking some hard to find board, should there be other problems with the machine., assuming of course you even ever bother to go back to change it to the correct value after the fact, as referenced by your first post....  all over what, saving a few pennies on a fuse? seems a bit silly to me, but whatever.

[pbj]

Drama queen confirmed.

 

[jennifer]

 
Not to even mention the fact, connectors, and pins are only rated for certain applications and can turn black and fry even under normal conditions,.... Pumping even more amps though them seems unrealistic.

[yotsuya]

[Malenko]

Just stick a pi in the fuse holder and you're golden!

[Mike A]

Awesome! Is there anything a Pi can't do?

[pbj]

Awesome! Is there anything a Pi can't do?

Play Gauntlet Legends 100%

[Mike A]

A Pi rectal exam would be pretty rough.

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[Ian]

For peace of mind, just buy a iso and wire it in. $30 tops.

http://www.shop.cajunarcade.com/Isolation-Transformer-120-Volt-80-2000-00.htm

This!

[Ian]

Mike silly question but all of the manuals I have found all have parts lists in them. From there you should be able to track down the exact fuse you are looking for.

page 25

https://archive.org/stream/arcademanual_Rave_Racer/Rave%20Racer#page/n33/mode/2up

"For a 220 V power supply use glass tube fuse 250 volt 5 A"

Only fuse I could find... Maybe start with this?

[Mike A]

Yeah. The manual is pretty crappy. On top of that, the only one that seems to be available online is a bad scan.

[jennifer]

   Its usable however, Seems that other fuse is a 5amp.

[Mike A]

I am going to tackle this in the morning. I just got done sitting with a friend who is in the hospital again. Cancer sucks.

[Mike A]

I now have a fully functioning machine. I popped in a couple of fuses and the force feedback came to life. I wired up an isolation transformer for the monitor, and life is good. I would like to thank all of you who held my hand through this restoration. After I plow through the million other projects on my plate I will get to restoring the physical appearance of the cab. Playability is my main focus right now.

You guys are the best.

[Ian]

 

I now have a fully functioning machine. I popped in a couple of fuses and the force feedback came to life. I wired up an isolation transformer for the monitor, and life is good. I would like to thank all of you who held my hand through this restoration. After I plow through the million other projects on my plate I will get to restoring the physical appearance of the cab. Playability is my main focus right now.

You guys are the best.

[pbj]

Look everyone!! It was FINALLY "just a fuse!!!"

 

[Ian]

Look everyone!! It was FINALLY "just a fuse!!!"

 

lol

[jennifer]

Look everyone!! It was FINALLY "just a fuse!!!"

 

  That's not news....We knew that way back, He was asking what fuse.

[Mike A]

It was actually 2 fuses.

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