It seems the issue is with the wheel-configuration and not the brake. As soon as a I turn off wheel override I can drift, however I need to do 1.5 spin on my wheel and it's impossible to play without your deadzone fix, even with sensitivity set to max.
I'm not sure what options you have with your wheel but your issue is "saturation", not sensitivity or dead zone.
Your wheel rotation should be limited to something like 180-270 degrees for these older games.
You just aren't going to be able to change directions as quickly as the game was designed for otherwise.
The 900 degree Logitech wheels have an option that uses the feedback motor to make the wheel feel like there are stops at whatever amount of rotation you set it to.
If the thrustmaster software doesn't have the option to limit rotation, it might have a saturation setting. (that is what it is called in MAME).
Basically saturation is how far you must have the wheel turned before the game sees it as being turned all the way.
We aren't talking about MAME here, but for the sake of explaining it, here is how the setting works in MAME:
If set to 100 and you turn the wheel all the way, the game will see it as turned all the way.
If set to 85, the game will see it as being turned all the way when really you've only turned it 85% of the way.
So if you have a 900 degree wheel, but want to use it with a game that expects a 180 degree wheel the saturation would be set to 20%.
Maybe there is a way to fake the game out during calibration and only move the wheel across 270 degrees when calibrating it.