Little Ms. Pac-Man, A Portable Cocktail Cab

[yotsuya]

Yeah, I love that screen as well. 

[Termin8tor]

Coming along nicely. Do you think you will finish this side of Christmas?

[griffindodd]

Coming along nicely. Do you think you will finish this side of Christmas?

I hope so, daylight saving has pretty much killed any opportunity for me to do any routing or cutting during the week though as I only do it outside due to the awful dust.

Measured off the underside of the CP to ensure the clearance is enough for the joystick, turns out it is perfect

[jmike]

Great work so far Griff,
                   just wondering how heavy this is gonna be? What's it like 25lbs? Hopefully I'll start on one but with 1/2 inch MDF.


 

[griffindodd]

Great work so far Griff,
                   just wondering how heavy this is gonna be? What's it like 25lbs? Hopefully I'll start on one but with 1/2 inch MDF.
 

yeah this is heavy, that 5/8 particle board must be 35lbs+ on it's own, that's ok though I don't want the kids moving it when I put it down on the floor for them to play with ha ha.

Just remember if you are going to use thinner stock you may have to compensate at some of the meeting points for the CP and the sides, nothing that would be a big deal, but if you're a perfectionist keep an eye on those.

[griffindodd]

Spent 80% of my free time cleaning out the garage today, but I did get some time to do some of the more delicate cuts, beveling the Player and coin panels. I was determined to get these perfect, more out of the need to learn better techniques for these type of cuts, so I kept the angles on this design to 30/60 so I could use the router to do the bevel.

Invested in a 60/30 chamfer bit to add to my collection, got it from Rockler.


Screwed the panel I wanted to bevel to a straight edge so I could use it as a guide, and this is the result, a nice clean 30 degree bevel


Another thing I've learned, always use my art as my template for cuts. I miscalculated the depth of the angled back plate in the artwork. I want to have a single piece of art cover both angles of the panel. Using mock-ups of the art means I can catch these little hiccups before sending the art of for final print.


Over an hour to do 4 cuts, but definitely worth it as I learned good technique and they came out perfect first time.

[griffindodd]

Angled panels glued in place, then I realized I had forgotten to slot cut the bottom panel,  so that should prove quite the clamping challenge, oh well 

Testing the stick and button positions, happy with this.

[wp34]

Another great looking build. I really like the design.

Sent from my Atari 800 mobile device using Tapatalk

[floriske.nl]

This build is looking better and better.  I really love the design and the way you take your time to get the details right!

[griffindodd]

This build is looking better and better.  I really love the design and the way you take your time to get the details right!

Thanks, I am trying to force myself not to rush it and slow down although I usually work fast, but I'm getting better at taking my time.

Here's a side profile to show the spacing of the joystick, the angled back of the CP allows just enough room to be comfortable in front while being able to push the stick close enough in to fit inside the frame underneath and have enough room to rest your palm on the cp


Did a little more today, made the changes to the artwork so that a single piece fits the whole control panel


After making the mistake of gluing the two parts of the control panel together before slot cutting the bottom panel of the CP, I had to get creative and build a mount to screw the panel in to so I could route the edges in one clean sweep


The little mount worked out perfect and allowed me to easily cut the slots without any problems, so I learned a new trick today


In fact the mount worked so well I decided to use it for the sides too


Last bit for the day, hiding the power socket in the black of the artwork

[jmike]

Looking good Griff.
             Great job on that little mount. Might have to make one too. Got any plans for it?   

[griffindodd]

Got any plans for it?   

I think it's going to become a permanent part of my toolkit

[griffindodd]

I just uploaded the complete set of art for anyone who wants to use it, it includes side panel, control panel and bezel. The usual disclaimers, although I feel it is accurate enough for printing, I can't guarantee color reproduction accuracy, or anything in fact so please use them at your discretion. I'd love to see someone else's build of one of these cabinets to see how it went for them and what they do with it to make it 'their own.'

Artwork is in PDF format for easy printing or Adobe Illustrator files if you want to edit them. Cut templates are in various formats all attached to the original post.

 

[griffindodd]

Wow, don't know if this was already in stock but T-Molding.com have color matched Ms. Pac-Man T-Molding which also makes a donation to Breast Cancer Research for every sale, just ordered mine for this build, I hope my pinks are right on my color builds, if so this is going to look great!!!

http://www.t-molding.com/store/product.php?productid=66

[griffindodd]

Updated the artwork files to a more accurate blue, so if you downloaded them you may want to grab them again and discard the old ones. Just sent these art files off to GOG to get my printing done so this is the blue I am sticking with now.

[DaOld Man]

This is looking real good.

[griffindodd]

This is looking real good.

Thanks buddy! no rotation on this one though lol.

Banged out a little bit this morning before heading off to work. I love the smell of laminate in the morning 

[griffindodd]

As the build is going along smoothly and is quite simple, I thought I would make life more complicated for myself by getting a bit more adventurous with the speaker grills and fan intakes.

These are the end panels that sit just under the control panels.


The plan here is to have Ms. Pac-Man be the speaker holes in the laminated wood and the ghost be the fan intake/exhaust holes. I plan on routing out an inset behind the holes so I can place some colored LED's in there to get the colors to shine through the holes and give that illuminated effect. Should be a fun challenge but I think it could look really great.

[griffindodd]

Ordered various colors of these SMD LEDs for the lighting, $30 total including shipping to light both end panels and the joystick bases, a nice simple solution that's pretty much plug and play. I know I could have done it cheaper just buying raw LEDs and doing all the soldering and wiring myself, but 2 hours of swearing and cursing just to save about $15 isn't worth the grey hairs.

[griffindodd]

Updated the concept art to reflect the new end panels, pink LED lit custom translucent dustwashers from TEFightstands and a change in the P1/2 and Coin button styles...

[PL1]

Looking good, Joel.   

Two questions:

1. Got a link for those SMD LEDs?

2. How far do you plan on wrapping the t-molding around the "fingers" on the CP?
Seems like it would be hard to seat it properly in the narrow cutout area.


Scott

[griffindodd]

Looking good, Joel.   
Two questions:
1. Got a link for those SMD LEDs?
2. How far do you plan on wrapping the t-molding around the "fingers" on the CP?
Seems like it would be hard to seat it properly in the narrow cutout area.

Thanks man. Here's the linky for the LEDs
http://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/component-leds/little-dot-smd-led-accent-light/639/

The fingers are actually radiused (word?) so the t-mold just ends where they meet the side panel. Also  the t-mold on the side panels end as they hit the CP and start again underneath.

[griffindodd]

Updated the artwork packs to include the end caps with the speaker and fan grill patterns

[griffindodd]

Did a little more this morning, finished laminating the sides, trimmed the slots in the control panels to allow for the extra width of the laminate and did another test fit just to make sure we are still on the right track.

[Generic Eric]

Looking great!  I like the speaker grills also. I can't help but think this is just "table legs away" from a cocktail cabinet.   How well does the size of your tabletop lend itself to that application?  Is this unit to small to add tables to?

[griffindodd]

Looking great!  I like the speaker grills also. I can't help but think this is just "table legs away" from a cocktail cabinet.   How well does the size of your tabletop lend itself to that application?  Is this unit to small to add tables to?

I'm sure you could add legs to it to make it a stand alone cocktail cabinet, fold up ones would be even better.

As for size, I designed it primarily to be used by children so it's very compact, but it would be easy for an adult to use too, I'm 6ft tall with pretty big hands and can comfortably rest my palms on the CP behind the joystick and buttons.

[mcseforsale]

Subscribed...

AJ

[griffindodd]

Subscribed...

You took your time, where you been at sucka?

[mcseforsale]

Clicked the linky-thing in your sig.  I might build one of these!  Wonder if I could use a 19" monitor that I have in the garage with a couple stuck pixels.

AJ

[griffindodd]

Clicked the linky-thing in your sig.  I might build one of these!  Wonder if I could use a 19" monitor that I have in the garage with a couple stuck pixels.
AJ

Yep it will fit anything up to a 21.3" Syncmaster 214t

[Unstupid]

I was looking at your build and had some thoughts.  I numbered them so its easier to see what I'm referring to...
1. I think you are going to run into problems when doing the tmolding for this spot because its going to end on a turn so the tmolding will naturally want to pull itself out of the slot.  Not to mention you are using 5/8" particle board so getting it into that thin finger without breaking everything will be a challenge in itself.
2. Here is another point where your tmolding finishes off at a turn.  That fillet on that corner was probably unneeded and you could have just made that edge run straight into the underside of the control panel surface.
3. The power socket you are using for this build is made for thin metal panels and it has little retention tabs that hold it in place.  Because you are installing it on thicker 5/8" particle board you are going to have to cur some relief for those tabs or it won't allow you to plug in the cord. 

Just a FYI...   BTW it's looking awesome!

[PL1]

One possible way to address Unstupid's concerns 1 and 2 above is to modify the control panel by cutting off the "fingers". (green)

This will allow you to wrap the t-mold (pink)around so the side panels stop it from coming loose.

T-mold the entire perimeter of the side panel with one piece.  Put the start/stop seam at the back bottom corner of the CP.

Let the CP rest on the side panel t-mold.


Scott

[griffindodd]

For the T-Molding on the side panels I am simply going to cut the top of the T off allowing the 'tooth' of the molding to continue in the slot under the control panel this will ensure it can never come away.

For the teeth wraps and the electrical socket I'm hoping my old buddy Titebond II will fix those issues

[mcseforsale]

Griffin...in case I missed it, what types of games will run on this besides Ms. PacMan?  Are you doing a board, or a PC?

I just showed it to the better half and she wants one to bring to parties.  GAME ON!!!

Just gotta kill off the "Fist Full of Quarters" build first.  DIE BUILD DIE!! 

AJ

[griffindodd]

Griffin...in case I missed it, what types of games will run on this besides Ms. PacMan?  Are you doing a board, or a PC?

I just showed it to the better half and she wants one to bring to parties.  GAME ON!!!

Just gotta kill off the "Fist Full of Quarters" build first.  DIE BUILD DIE!! 

AJ

Yeah stop slacking death is imminent. I'm using a board in this set to 4-way only

[Unstupid]

Griffin...in case I missed it, what types of games will run on this besides Ms. PacMan?  Are you doing a board, or a PC?

I just showed it to the better half and she wants one to bring to parties.  GAME ON!!!

Just gotta kill off the "Fist Full of Quarters" build first.  DIE BUILD DIE!! 

AJ

Yeah stop slacking death is imminent. I'm using a board in this set to 4-way only

Which board? 60-in-1, ArcadeSD?

[griffindodd]

60-in-1

[mcseforsale]

Where do you get such a thing and are they cheaper than an old PC?

AJ

[CoryBee]

Where do you get such a thing and are they cheaper than an old PC?

AJ

Nice little kit - although I prefer concave buttons

http://www.ebay.com/itm/JAMMA-60-IN-1-PCB-2-X-ARCADE-JOYSTICKS-14-BUTTONS-JAMMA-HARNESS-LOOM-BUNDLE-/271116074247?pt=UK_Video_Games_Coin_Operated_MJ&hash=item3f1fc6fd07

<link removed by Haruman>

 

Probably better places, I don't know

EDIT - Don't like to 60-in-1 sales, or any other XXXX in 1.  Kthxbai.

[griffindodd]

I paid $87+ Shipping for my board, harness and power supply.

A few more little steps forward before work this morning...

Laminated the underside of the control panels


I want the internal blocking to be the single support/anchor points for all of the main structure, trying to keep as much free space inside the box for airflow and general ease of build. The monitor I am using is only 0.5" shorter than the internal width of the box, so I routed a channel in the top of the blocking to rest the monitor in, trying to keep the top horizontal surface as even as possible where all parts meet as this is where the bezel will sit.


Channelled blocks in place


Monitor placed in the channel, fits nicely with a little wiggle space for fine adjustment when I bolt it in place.