3/4 MDF with a 1/8 sheet of lexan on top of that.....
Three options with your high lip TB:
a) mounting plate under lexan, recessed ~1/16" into MDF
b) mounting plate over lexan, w/ 5.5" square hole in lexan
c) mounting plate over lexan, w/ 3" circle hole in lexan.
Option b) is covered in last post, except that you need to use that plastic spacer you mentioned, between the mounting plate and the TB case.
Option c) is almost the same, except the lexan takes the place of the spacer. Drill the four holes in the mdf and cut out the 5.5" square in the mdf. Extend the 4 small mdf holes into the lexan. Drill four more holes in the lexan, drill the big 3" hole in the lexan. (Locations noted in happs mounting plate "cutout" pictures). Put mounting plate on lexan. Remove the space from the TB, and mount it from under the lexan. Tighten bolts.
Option a) is the "hardest" but "cleanest" IMO. You need a router and the boltless mounting kit. Drill four holes + the 5.5" rectangle in MDF. Slide mounting plate into holes on top side of MDF, and trace the outline. Using a flat routing bit, set the routing depth to the thickness of the mounting plate: pile scrap piece wood, then plate directly on top, then router (avoid the bolts), and adjust bit so it rests on the scrap peice of wood. Route out inside the traced line (hint, replace the 5.5" square cutout to help keep the router level, but no need to route the cutout). Place plate on MDF and make sure it is level with top of MDF; bolt. (Optional: cover with art/laminate.) Replace lexan. Drill (better: route) 3" hole in lexan using the 3" hole in plate as guide. Remove spacer from TB. Mount TB from under the plate and bolt in place.
All result in the same amount of TB above the lexan. Just depends on how you want the CP to look and feel.
If I'm not clear, ask; I'm simplifying the instructions a lot.