A little router bit help/advice?

[Sasquatch!]

My wife got me a Ryobi R161 router for my birthday (yes, further putting herself into the "arcade window" category  ).  It's a 1-1/2 HP with a 1/4" collet.  So now I just need to, uh, buy some bits and learn how to use this thing!

I guess the first order of business is being able to cut into 3/4" MDF.  I just picked up an Oldham Viper 2 Flute Stright bit - solid carbide, 1/4" shank, 1/4" cut diameter, 3/4" cut depth.  (part 1404DFSC at Oldham's website.  

The first thing that threw me is that the cuts will be 1/4" wide, which seems like a lot to me, but is this pretty "normal" for a router?  I would also assume that now I'll have to re-do my plan layouts to accomodate for this 1/4" gap at every cut, huh?

So please tell me if I'm right, close, or way off.  Oh, and feel free to pass along any hints, tips, links, etc.  

[aust_txv]

Hey Bigfoot! stop,
That bit will give you fits and it is unsafe to run the slot for t-molding and it is the wrong size.  Do a search in the forum, the part number and web site for what you need is back there.  What you want is a 3 wing slot cutter.
TV

[aust_txv]

Hi again,
Just re-read your question.  If you are going to use that bit you posted to make your round edge cuts...no problem.
Yes make your work a shade bigger if you plan to shape with a router...it's a ---smurfette--- trying to re-attach MDF dust
Make guides and jigs to make nice round corners and stuff.  The previous post stands to make the slot for t-molding grab a 3 wing slot cutter its on the forum somewhere.
Have Fun, sorry for multiple posts,
TV

[OSCAR]

I wouldn't really recommend using a 1/4" straight bit for cutting panels with a hand router.  In fact, I use a 1/2" straight bit with 1/2" shank for cutting 3/4" thick material.  The thinner the shank is, the more susceptible it is to vibration and "walking".  I've use 1/4" bits for little things like button holes and lexan, but not for side panels.

Sorry, but yes, redo your plans to accommodate the thickness of the router bit.




 

[Sasquatch!]

I wouldn't really recommend using a 1/4" straight bit for cutting panels with a hand router.  In fact, I use a 1/2" straight bit with 1/2" shank for cutting 3/4" thick material.  The thinner the shank is, the more susceptible it is to vibration and "walking".  I've use 1/4" bits for little things like button holes and lexan, but not for side panels.

Sorry, but yes, redo your plans to accommodate the thickness of the router bit.

Except that the Ryobi R161 only has a 1/4" collet (which I'm assuming means that that it'll only take a 1/4" shank, correct?).  Soooo...are you saying to not even use this router at all?

EDIT: TV - yeah, I'm not planning on using this bit for t-molding, just for the 3/4" MDF cuts.  Thanks for the tip, though!

[OSCAR]

If that is what you have, then give it a try on a piece of scrap wood and see how it works out.  A 1/4" bit will work okay if you don't try to make the entire cut all at once.  If you want to err on the side of caution, set it to cut half the depth with the first pass.  Then go back with a second pass to finish the cut.

You might check to see if you can get a 1/2" collet for your router.  Many routers come with both 1/4" & 1/2"; and others only come with the 1/4", but the 1/2" needs to be purchased separately.

[Sasquatch!]

If that is what you have, then give it a try on a piece of scrap wood and see how it works out.  A 1/4" bit will work okay if you don't try to make the entire cut all at once.  If you want to err on the side of caution, set it to cut half the depth with the first pass.  Then go back with a second pass to finish the cut.

You might check to see if you can get a 1/2" collet for your router.  Many routers come with both 1/4" & 1/2"; and others only come with the 1/4", but the 1/2" needs to be purchased separately.

Nah, the 1/4" collet doesn't appear to be swappable.  I'll give that "two-pass" a try, and yes, I plan on chewing up a lot of scrap wood while I'm trying to get the hang of this thing!    Thanks for the tips!

[u_rebelscum]

If you're going to use laminate or lexan or plexi, another bit you probably want is a flush trim with bearing bit, like some of  these.  You don't need both top mounted and bottom mounted bearing bits, only need to pick one.  Top is nice cause you can use the same bit for plunge routing, and the router won't slide over the final laminate/lexan (and cause scratches).  Bottom is usually cheaper and you won't have the cutting part of the bit projecting beyond the project.

edit: fixed url

[Shieldwolf]

not to steal the thunder from the starter of the subject, but I just got a router and I'm using it to route out 1/2 inch mdf on my cp for the trackball plate (I want it flush with the mdf). Any suggestions for the size of the bit?

[u_rebelscum]

not to steal the thunder from the starter of the subject, but I just got a router and I'm using it to route out 1/2 inch mdf on my cp for the trackball plate (I want it flush with the mdf). Any suggestions for the size of the bit?

I used two bits: 1/2" for most of it, and a 1/8" to get the corners.

[Sasquatch!]

not to steal the thunder from the starter of the subject...

Not at all, man.  This is ALL news to me, so keep 'em coming!

[Sasquatch!]

Secondary router question!  Hooray!

For cutting button holes in plexi / lexan, do I need to use a plunge router?  My understanding is that non-plunge routers are good if you're coming in from the side, but if you're not, you'd need to at least have some kind of small hole already drilled for the router to be able to start in.

Is this correct?

[Amra]

Even with a plunge router you will need a starter hole, think about this... if you are making your lexan holes flush with the pre-existing holes in the wood, then you are going to be using a flush cutting bit.  This bit has a bearing on the bottom to keep you from cutting into the peice your using as a template (in this case, the wood panel ) the problem then is if you are using a flush cutting bit, then you would be trying to use the bearing to cut through the plexiglass, which isnt going to happen.  Thus you will need to drill a starter hole, and then use the flush bit to finish.  

[u_rebelscum]

... a flush cutting bit.  This bit has a bearing on the bottom...

There are flush cutting bit with the bearing on top, but they cost more, probably just for the reason you don't need pre-drilled holes.  (first link I found on google with a top bearing)

[shmokes]

I think the confusion (and I'm really a beginner so I could be wrong here) is what we're calling the bits.  I believe a flush trim bit always has the bearing on the bottom and a template bit always has the bearing on the top.  I have one of each which I recommend.  Some template jobs just work better with one or the other depending on what and where you're cutting.

As to the question about making cuts through 3/4" mdf with a 1/4" shank straight bit I think you'll have success.  Do the multiple pass thing for sure, though.  Just take the cuts reasonably slow and concentrate.  My most common screw up with a router is when my concentration lapses and I tilt the router on the edge of my wood causing a diagonal gouge in my cut.  Just concentrate on keeping that sucker flat on your board and always pressed up against your straightedge, temlate, etc.   After shaping one of my side panels and sanding/rounding corners and edges I clamped another 4'x8' sheet of wood to the top of it and used a 1/4" shank flush trim bit to make an exact duplicate of it.  Since the bearing had to ride the bottom board I had to cut the whole thing in one pass.  It turned out good but I burned the crap out of the bit.  By the end of that cut the bit was pretty dull (though it was a super cheap bit to begin with).

Just for reference I was cutting through 3/4" melamine, not MDF, but they're pretty similar.  I think MDF is stronger than the industrial grade particle board used in melamine, but the melamine laminated sides make up for a lot of that difference.

[u_rebelscum]

I think the confusion (and I'm really a beginner so I could be wrong here) is what we're calling the bits.  I believe a flush trim bit always has the bearing on the bottom and a template bit always has the bearing on the top.

I could be wrong, too (a beginner woodworker also), but the link I provided ( http://www.freud-tools.com/freudtopbear.html ) says "Top Bearing Flush Trim Router Bits", instead of template bits.  *shrug*

My guess is most flush trim bits are bottom bearing, while some are top bearing.  And then the names are treated sort of like rectangles and squares; while squares are a special type of rectangles, the false statement, "that's not a rectangle, that's a square" is often accepted, as well as the corollary "rectangles are not squares".  ("Mouse" & "trackball" is another place this happens.)


BTW, misunderstandings due to "most means all" like the squares/rectangles one can be fatal.  Example: there are two different types of strokes, clogged vs bleeding (not the real medical names).  Most are of the clogged type, so "stroke" often incorrectly means the clogged type only.  Such as "asprin a day helps prevent strokes" and "asprin can help stop a stroke".  While true for preventing the clogged types, asprin can impede a bleeding type stroke from stopping the bleeding, thus extending the stroke.  
All people with friends or relatives with aneurysms or AVMs be aware of this, as strokes on people with aneurysms & AVMs usually, but not always, are the bleeding type, but other people can have brain hemorrhages too.  
Sorry for the OT.

[Amra]

I had not previously seen a template/top bearing flush trim bit before, so that explains my ignorance...

Ok, then to edit.. If you have a template/top bearing flush trim bit then you do NOT need to pre-drill your Lexan, however, you will have to find a way to have the lexan under the CP when you cut it, as the CP would be your template.  If you have a peice of wood you can waste, you can sandwich the plexi/lexan/lucite between two peices of wood, or maby just find a way to secure the lexan to the wood and then just flip it over and cut away...

If however you are like most and dont have a template/top bearing flush trim bit then you are going to have to pre-drill holes that are large enough to fit your trim bit through.  

Thanks for the link/info u_rebelscum i might have to get me one of those template/top bearing flush trim bits....