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Yeah, thanks to that lying ---fudgesicle--- there’s never enough French fries anymore.  “Thanks”

 

WV native, one of the few we weren't embarrassed about.  I agree though, the answer to "How many Fries?" is "All DA FRIEZ!!!"

Overbowed

Steam
Overbowed

Native resolution is 160x144 GameBoy
Set display resolution to 320x240
Game Scale to 1x
Perfect integer scaling just like GameBoy Player

this Blue box I don't know what it is. (Image Below)

The "blue box" appears to be a solid-state relay like the ones used in this DIY "smart power strip" thread.

https://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,128892.0.html

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The daisy-chain ground (#3) for Player 2's controls should only be connected to one Quick Disconnect (QD) tab on each button/joystick microswitch and the ground pin on the Xin-Mo board, not to anything connected to or going through the relay.



A daisy-chain ground looks like this.



The QDs in this daisy-chain ground should be connected to one tab (usually COM) of each microswitch in P2's controls.

The single wire on the right should be connected to a ground pin in the 18-pin connector on the right side of your Xin-Mo in this pic.

The "blue box" relay shouldn't be connected to ground on the Xin-Mo.

Am I right that you have just one of these boards -- the wire bundle on the left goes to P1's controls and the wire bundle on the right goes to P2's controls?  I ask because Xin-Mo also makes an encoder that has control input pins on one side and output pins for button LEDs on the other side.



To troubleshoot the whole system, you'll need to test parts of the system separately.

Can you connect a USB cable from the Xin-Mo USB B connector to a laptop or other PC to see if the P1 and P2 controls are working properly?
(Windows Control Panel -- Devices and Printers -- [Xin-Mo device] -- Game controller settings -- Properties)


Scott

I connected it to a windows 10 based Laptop, it worked perfectly for both controllers, what does this means?

The name appearing is THT Arcade Console 2 USB Player, using a standard USB controller driver from Microsoft.

if it does not do it's "post beep" could be a funky connection on the CPU. if you pull off that cooler and pop out the CPU and stick it back in again, it may start working again.

i have encountered some motherboards if they have been reset to default (dead bios battery or the like) will not boot up without a good voltage reading on the battery and the "first" video device being connected...

typically this is the lowest connector on the totem pole. (typically this goes VGA, then HDMI/DVI, then display port) so unfortunately if you have a VGA port on the board, you may have to find a VGA monitor just to see if things are booting.

failing that, iv'e had limited success erasing the CMOS settings (a jumper setting or remove battery, you'll have to check your particular board.)

Another lurker.   Silently we wait.... for the signal.....yes

Hi Argon.
Some years ago I told you about Ad cop and Bon bon Paradise.  Both games are msdos but have win95 versions.
I tested Ad cop win 95 version and I couldn't get it to work.
But just noticed that Bon bon paradise works. You just have to mount Cd, install the game, Open cd and run Main95.exe.
There is SETUP95.exe, if you select lightguns game doesn't launch but if you select keyboard and /or mouse it starts normally.

Just in case you are interested, it is a good Point blank game like.

I don't know what happens with Ad Cop, gonna investigate this days

Im pretty sure JVL had some sort of "temporary/limited support" over a decade ago when they discontinued the product. You were just over a decade late to the party, LOL.

BTW, your JVL is toast. No input/video signal is a dead GPU.

this Blue box I don't know what it is. (Image Below)

The "blue box" appears to be a solid-state relay like the ones used in this DIY "smart power strip" thread.

https://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,128892.0.html

-------------------------------------

The daisy-chain ground (#3) for Player 2's controls should only be connected to one Quick Disconnect (QD) tab on each button/joystick microswitch and the ground pin on the Xin-Mo board, not to anything connected to or going through the relay.



A daisy-chain ground looks like this.



The QDs in this daisy-chain ground should be connected to one tab (usually COM) of each microswitch in P2's controls.

The single wire on the right should be connected to a ground pin in the 18-pin connector on the right side of your Xin-Mo in this pic.

The "blue box" relay shouldn't be connected to ground on the Xin-Mo.

Am I right that you have just one of these boards -- the wire bundle on the left goes to P1's controls and the wire bundle on the right goes to P2's controls?  I ask because Xin-Mo also makes an encoder that has control input pins on one side and output pins for button LEDs on the other side.



To troubleshoot the whole system, you'll need to test parts of the system separately.

Can you connect a USB cable from the Xin-Mo USB B connector to a laptop or other PC to see if the P1 and P2 controls are working properly?
(Windows Control Panel -- Devices and Printers -- [Xin-Mo device] -- Game controller settings -- Properties)


Scott

It can be very difficult to do remote troubleshooting on an unknown setup built by a 3rd party.

One thing that makes it easier is if there is a common baseline of terms and concepts, so you may want to read through the FAQ.

https://wiki.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/FAQ

we need the Player 2 Buttons and Joystick, they don´t do anything

Looks like the last photo is of a 2 player Xin-Mo gamepad encoder.

That board translates the joystick and button presses into USB gamepad commands.
- The 18-pin connector on the left is for Player 1 controls.
- The 18-pin connector on the right is for Player 2 controls.

The Xin-Mo board is seen by the computer as two gamepads.

If P2's controls only work when the button on the back is pressed, there is probably a problem with the wiring path between P2's daisy-chain ground wire and ground. (details below)

-They worked before by pressing the top button at the back of the machine (Photo) but I took the cables out cause it was sometimes that it worked, so they connected the right way to the USB Interface cause I tested it when they were working.

You lost me on this part.      

-Is a Homemade machine with a Windows-based computer as a core, bad quality and slow but works perfectly with the arcade games.

What core hardware can I buy to connect those buttons and joysticks that are small, faster, and cheap for N64 and PS1 games?

As long as you're happy with the current selection of arcade games and gameplay, there's no need to upgrade to a new computer and emulation software.

If you want to add N64 and PS1 games, you will probably want to upgrade to a new computer and emulation software.
- There has been a lot of progress in emulating these systems lately and the newer emulation software requires a lot more computing power.
- Also check the controls for the games you want to add.  Do they require analog thumbstick or analog trigger button inputs?  IIRC the Xin-Mo doesn't have any analog inputs.

-I cannot go to settings cause the startup is blocked, even with a keyboard and mouse I cannot do anything, a format method would be appreciated.

You should be able to get into the MAME menu system using the TAB key while you're running an arcade game.

Not sure what Front End program you're running so no idea how to exit the game selection menu to access Windows.

You can run a USB cable from the Xin-Mo to a laptop or other PC's USB if you want to troubleshoot the controls separate from the rest of the system.

This button was to activate it or connect it to the power source?

Given the location of that button at the top/back of the machine, it was probably either connected to the power switch pins on the motherboard (press the button to safely shut down the system without corrupting Windows) or maybe it was connected to one of the Xin-Mo encoder inputs and there was a shutdown script triggered by the output of that Xin-Mo input.

If that button is causing P2's controls to work or not work, there is some sort of wiring error.  It probably involves the daisy-chain ground for Player 2's controls being supplied through that switch.   

What can I do or connect to make it work permanently without pressing the back button?

If that button doesn't trigger a shutdown, P2 controls work when that button pressed, and P2 controls don't work when it isn't, then here's a workaround:

On that button, leave one wire on the COM (Common) tab of the microswitch and swap the other wire from NO (Normally Open) to NC (Normally Closed) or from NC to NO.


When the red microswitch nub isn't pressed, COM connects to NC.
When the red microswitch nub is pressed, COM connects to NO.


Scott

I will try that, if you need any specific photos or information I will provide it to you. Sorry for my bad English. I am keeping this same hardware.
What can I install on this computer that can use the same inputs?
I can use normal emulators without any front end?
What Front end can I install to avoid all the configuration and configure the buttons?

Supposing all the cables are correctly connected to the USB Interface; knowing that the Arcade does work entirely without any other issue, what needs that USB Interface to register Player 2 inputs?
Thinking outside the USB interface pins, just considering the cables that connect to Ground and the CPU through this Blue box I don't know what it is. (Image Below)
One of these cables goes to Player 1 Start Button COM (Based on the image you sent me) and the other to the Player 1 USB Interface.
The other two cables that are connected to the back buttons; one is divided in two; one goes to Player 2 Joystick Left COM and the other one goes to Player 2 Button A COM, and the other cable that does not divide goes to Player 2 USB Interface.

If I connect both that go to the USB interface and both that go to COM, will work? (I think no cause the USB already has power for both of the players and they worked without doing that)

Appreciate your response lilshawn and for confirming what I had suspected. It's a shame these companies wouldn't at least make an announcement of their shift and offer some sort of temporary/limited support. I love having a touch screen game on my bar in my mancave as it adds to the ambiance, atmosphere and fun. But the most frustrating part is, even though I had the unit for about 10 years, it was not used a lot and should not have failed in my opinion, but things happen. If it will cost an arm and a leg to fix, I would rather get another one but don't know which ones are still in production and if the issues/support is the same with all the companies.

The issue I am currently having with the JVL is it will not boot up. When I put it on the fans will come on and a brief message is flashed on the screen saying no input and then it disappears after about 10 seconds. The fans stay on, but the screen is blank, and the lights stay off. I changed the cmos battery as someone suggested but that did not work. I opened it up to take a look but have no idea what to check or how to. It could be the motherboard and upon searching for the motherboard it is obviously discontinued. I will certainly take your advice and look for a local repair shop to see if they can assist. Again, appreciate all the responses. You guys are awesome.