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Started by geecab - Last post by geecab

Hi GEECAB

I made 2 short videos with the D7 version  :)

Happy viewing FYI I didn't play well maybe the stress of being filmed lol ;D

https://youtube.com/shorts/AjvrURPjnlo



Nice work GPForverer2024!!

Thanks so much for posting these. Really like the way you've styled the cabinet side art, great job!!  :applaud:

Started by ckalkhof - Last post by PL1

Thanks Scott. So something like this would probably work? https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B085ZLCYS1/ref=ox_sc_act_title_4?smid=A2CH56PPVFOUBF&th=1

I wonder what type of resolution would be the best choice?
That looks familiar.   ;D

WARNING: Make sure you don't wire it wrong.  Accidently connecting 5v to one of the data lines will instantly kill the encoder.

Here are several 3d printable mounts for that type of encoder.
https://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,152421.msg1740629.html#msg1740629



That 600 ppr encoder should be fine for almost all games, but it might be a bit low for Arkanoid.

You will probably need to adjust the sensitivity in each game's settings.
https://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,164017.0.html


Scott

Started by Rocketeer2001 - Last post by Zebidee

I don't know about all that - most RGB mods involve inputting the sync via composite video, and that carries the frequency info. So I don't see how an RGB mod will change anything, even if the RGB signals are going in by OSD. That's my theory, but happy to be proven wrong.

So, if you do this RGB mod, I suggest you test it with something like CRU or crt_emulator first, to see what it accepts and what it does not.

Started by Rocketeer2001 - Last post by Rocketeer2001

I agree that normally those Hz would be an issue for a North American TV, but from other forums talking about RGB modding, it involves bypassing the jungle chip which usually looks for that 50 or 60Hz. From what I understand, if the jungle chip isn't involved then the Hz don't matter. It's worth a shot to see what happens, but that 25Khz is still an issue.

5   Project Announcements / Re: Hoping for a neato idea.on Yesterday at 11:12:45 pm

Started by Zakk - Last post by PL1

I would assume that these drone motors are speed controllable AND would have fairly good torque ratings??
They run at variable but high speed in one direction -- they aren't designed to reverse.

The torque rating will actually be lower because of the high rotation speed.
- Picture trying to get a car to move from a dead stop using only 4th gear.  You'll stall the engine every time.
- For those who don't drive stick, your automatic transmission probably goes R N D 2 L. L = low gear = more torque.

My concern is the overall weight that I'm spinning around, not sure if a $2 stepper motor would be up to the task.
As I said earlier, a $2 28BYJ-48 might work with a light plastic model, but definitely will not work for what you're doing.



I mean worst case I can just build some gearing into the mount for speed reduction, but torque is the big variable. The cube itself is 6lbs, plus whatever handing device and gearing/mount.
Building a gear box for a drone motor for this application is 100% GUARANTEED fail.

Overcoming the initial inertia of startup is more what I was thinking about here. Maybe I should take a look at just a beefier stepper motor.
The Mostly Printed CNC (MPCNC) uses 76 OZ/in NEMA 17 motors.



NEMA 17 is the mount-hole pattern size, not the torque rating, so you can easily change to another NEMA 17 motor with more torque  if this 84OZ/in one isn't strong enough. (Didn't expect you'd need to turn a 6 pound assembly.)
https://www.amazon.com/STEPPERONLINE-Stepper-Bipolar-Connector-compatible/dp/B00PNEQKC0/
- Worst case, you might need to move up to a more expensive NEMA23 motor and driver.

You should be able to rotate a 6 pound mass if you get a properly rated motor (not sure exactly how much torque you'd need   :dunno) and design the rotation mech correctly.

Consider using something like a 2" lazy susan bearing (smaller is better) . . .



. . . the bottom would be attached to the shelf and the cube would be mounted on a hollow tube (red) passing through the center of the bearing (blue) and attached to the top plate of the bearing.

LED wiring goes through the tube.

A metal arch (gray) from one corner of the top of the bearing to the opposite corner connects the top to the stepper motor. (green)
- The arch transmits the torque from the motor to the cube.


Scott

Started by markoneswift - Last post by markoneswift

Hi all,

I acquired a Bingo! Korean candy cab recently. Everything has been removed from the cab, except the controls, tube and monitor chassis. I was told by the previous owner that the monitor did not work, hence why the cabinet got stripped of game board / power supply etc.

I believe the chassis is a Kortek KT-2901 but it is also branded Orion on the main and neck board. The tube is a Samsung A68xxxxx 29 inch and appears in good condition.

I have already located a shorted HOT (a BU508DF part) so I'm sourcing a replacement. I would really like to find a schematic or at least find a chassis which is similar. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

7   Main Forum / Re: TRON On 412 in 1 - Spinner Connection?on Yesterday at 08:16:29 pm

Started by ckalkhof - Last post by ckalkhof

Thanks Scott. So something like this would probably work? https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B085ZLCYS1/ref=ox_sc_act_title_4?smid=A2CH56PPVFOUBF&th=1

I wonder what type of resolution would be the best choice?

Started by argonlefou - Last post by phasermaniac

Strange, I did not have this problem in two diferent pcs. Will try to reproduce it tomorrow.
Maybe using dxwnd as described for Ad cop can bypass this with the "Handle exceptions" option, I don't know.

Started by argonlefou - Last post by argonlefou

So ... I've not tested Ad Cop yet, but tried again BonBon95 and couldn't make it go past the title screen

even running the game from mounted Cd, from disk, copying files, or trying anything : always get the MSCDEX error popup  :-[

10   Project Announcements / Re: Hoping for a neato idea.on Yesterday at 05:06:36 pm

Started by Zakk - Last post by Zakk

I have a couple of motors from a failed drone-repair
Drone motor . . . as in a motor that spins a propeller fast enough to generate lift?   :dizzy:

The code only works with a stepper motor.

You can find lots of NEMA 17 stepper motors on Amazon for under $10.  This one is $7.65 and has a 5% coupon.
https://www.amazon.com/Nema17-Stepper-Stable-Reinforced-Sealed/dp/B0CZ4LV37B/?th=1
I would assume that these drone motors are speed controllable AND would have fairly good torque ratings?? My concern is the overall weight that I'm spinning around, not sure if a $2 stepper motor would be up to the task. I mean worst case I can just build some gearing into the mount for speed reduction, but torque is the big variable. The cube itself is 6lbs, plus whatever handing device and gearing/mount. Overcoming the initial inertia of startup is more what I was thinking about here. Maybe I should take a look at just a beefier stepper motor.


Quote from: PL1
I'll pick up some of those gikfun boards as well.
Here are some less expensive ones to consider.
https://www.amazon.com/ElectroCookie-Solderable-Breadboard-Electronics-Gold-Plated/dp/B07ZYNWJ1S/?th=1
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09WZY8H3X/?th=1


Scott

Those should work. Amazon is REAL sketchy about deliveries out where I'm at, but I can usually get things routed to the post office in town...

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