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It was indeed admin rights that would open mame in another window.

Now I also checked the cfg's for a few games and there is no old nor new h-position slider setting.

You find a bad screenshot of Alien Sector that has a rather large black border to the right. Another one of MKII that has no border on the right side.

Another game with border would be Alex Kidd but there is too many to list and it's always the right side.

I played around for a long time with the CRT Mode lines and had no success because either one is off or the other. I could go and manually adjust them but the problem with that is that my frontend will lose focus as it basically restarts mame to adjust the modeline if I'm not mistaken.

It's weird, I didn't have these problems in the past.

I raise my hand for interest!

Using a HD7850.

Indeed running as Admin. Recently switched to Win 10.

I will check for old H-Shift corrections but those should also show up in the slider then?

It's not with games from different frequencies. I got those covered. The pstar also has a daughter board for horizontal shift on each frequency. The problem occurs with 15khz games.

Still no luck, Any modern alternatives to mamewah that operate in a similar fashion?

Very fun to stumble onto some Ond content!
Sure I'm late to this, but work is in the way of everything right now.

The elements to make things more than just utilitarian are the details I love the most.
Elegant embellishments on the form follows function paradigm are always so cool.

I at least will look forward to seeing some speaker unit production!

Make sure you installed this package: "CRT Emudriver & CRT Tools 2.0 beta 15 (Crimson 16.2.1 non-GCN* cards) for Windows 7/8/10 64-bits"

That cards looks a bit special, it has DP instead of HDMI, not usual. Of course, grab a new VGA cable, a normal home should have spare VGA cables in every drawer.

Make sure there's no rest of old H-shift corrections, these are recorded in the game's cfg. You shouldn't get shift differences in games that share the same frequency range (i.e. 15 kHz). Games shown on another range may be shifted, like those in the 24 kHz range. Different crt_ranges in a multi-sync monitor preset can be tuned so that their relative shift is compensated, making manual adjustments unnecessary. The existing pstar preset was tuned to fit my (long gone) Polostar.

MAME doesn't launch a second cmd window here. It sounds like you might be launching MAME with admin rights... is that a pre-HD5000 card?

Hello guy


I have 2 pc for play network (with model 2.3 , teknoparot etc )

Pc1 192.168.1.2
Pc2 192.168.1.3

If i good understand

I go to mame.ini and modify

For pc 1 :


# CORE COMM OPTIONS
comm_localhost            192.168.1.2
comm_localport            15111
comm_remotehost           PC2
comm_remoteport           15112
comm_framesync            0

And for pc 2 :



PC#2 Right side, Car 2, hostname: PC2 mame.ini settings:

# CORE COMM OPTIONS
comm_localhost            192.168.1.3
comm_localport            15112
comm_remotehost           PC1
comm_remoteport           15111
comm_framesync            0


It's correct ?


I need to start by Mame or by batch files ?


linkup1_to_2.bat for pc1
linkup2_to_1.batfor pc2
?


Big thanks

Hi GEECAB!

 But of course I had forgotten to put the run option in administrator mode for the scoreboard_to_relays file

and there it works Indeed without the -debug we gain latency and it's perfect I tested the damageRepairing function and now with the D2 version it works

BRAVO GEECAB (I am still impressed by your work and efficiency)    

otherwise I think to change the yellow key logo to chrono when the car is not in an accident and if you can change the sound when it is in chrono when the car touches the chrono?

When do you think?

 in any case the D2 version works very well

Thank you GEECAB!

 

Gah! Yes of course they are capacitors. I'm not sure why I thought they were diodes. Their labels even start with a 'C'  Thank you for pointing that out Shawn.

That cap is used all along the board, so I used my ESR meter to test them. The ones furthest from the voltage regulator (actually almost all of them) had an ESR of around 0.06 to 0.045 ohms. The two caps beside those regulators where 0.07 (for C40) and 0.23 (for C44). I got similar results when testing my 'new' board. Now, this could just be an false-negative result because those caps are still on the board and could be compounding some readings from nearby resistors, so I'll remove them tomorrow and test them away from the board.

Currently it's looking like maybe the C44 caps are out of spec. Possibly why that watchdog chip is resetting on the one board?
If I do need to replace, can I just use an electrolytic or ceramic capacitor? I have a small pile of old electronics I rob parts off of, so the availability of the exact part may be limited and I was hoping I could use a different type if I have the same cap size.

The cap part markings say 226, 25k, 121. I believe that's a 22uf @ 25v.