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I am using x360ce with a Logitech G29 to emulate an Xinput controller. Under the "Controller 1" tab, I click on the plus "Add" button and select my wheel from the list with the green square to the left which means it is active. I then map everything to my liking and click "Save All". All is well and works as intended, however, this config is lost after reboots and/or unplugging and plugging my G29 back into my PC. It never remains stable and I have to go in and do this process all over again.

Each time I click on the "Add" button, I see different instances of the G29 each with a different Instance ID, they always have a grey square next to them except one of them which is the one I have to select and reconfigure each time. Back in the "Controller 1" tab, I can also see different instances of the G29 and they all have a different "Setting ID" and "Instance ID" but only the latest one I added will have a green square next to it and obviously will be the only that works.

What I'm I missing here? How do I keep from having to constantly reconfigure my G29?

the reason everybody just posts everywhere about fixing touch machines is that the JVL company has basically abandoned the videogame market and chooses to focus on casino gaming. short of cursory access to a manual or CD, there is basically no support left except for private 3rd party companies.

if you need repairs that are out of the scope of your abilities, you can make a post here explaining what you got, what it's doing (or not doing) and i'm sure someone here can sort you out. (i have not checked your history to see if you've posted previously about it or not... just mentioning it for the sake of inclusion)

if you've exhausted what you can find, I suggest people contact some of the amusement game operators (jukboxes pooltables etc) or videogame repair companies (xbox playstation repairs etc) in your area and see if anyone might be familiar with the machine enough that can help you with your issue. lots of companies will repair stuff for you... for a fee of course.



That said, the main companies ignoring your e-mails is an all too common issue. I, myself, am a technician for an amusement company (several in fact) for the last 16 years, and the amount of e-mails going to dead e-mails/no response is huge...not to mention the replies I DO get are only about 50% of the time actually helpful and the other 50% of the time responses containing the likes of "unfortunately" and "unable". Even phone calls often end up with leaving messages on a voicemail that fall on deaf ears. I mean, it's not like i'm some random joe schmoe off the street... i'm a company... using your product .... contacting you, potentially with an issue.

I'm always impressed with these sort of 'one shot's skills. That is, the type of skills where one mistake and you either throw it away or live with it.

Heh. Funny that you should mention that, because this actually is the second shot. The first one went so bad that I threw it away.
Oddly enough, I'm pretty relaxed about this kind of project, because this hobby taught me that with patience, much practice and perseverance ... Murphy's Law is still out to get me. I have to pull off a flawless victory yet, so knowing that something will probably go wrong, I'm not that stressed out when it happens.
I have also learned not to be a bloody perfectionist all the time, because if I settle for good/very good, I'm getting more things done.

The 3.3V logic should be not a problem as long as you drive the spinner @3V.

Not so sure that would be possible.  Opto-sensors use IR LEDs, which have resistors in-line to regulate the current (voltage) to that which allow them to work.  At minimum, it's very likely that a spinner would need to have some board level modifications to work decently at 3.3v, or even work at all.

I came across the original EA Sports PGA golf. Unit is good except the hard drive is bad. Is there a way to get the ISO of the hard drive? No disk left in unit. I have dongle original DFI computer. Really like to get this cabinet up and running for the family. Thanks for any help.

Join the Facebook group-- I'm certain it's mentioned in this thread.  That's where support is and where you can get literally any help you could possibly need to get it up and running. 

People seem to have frequent issues with MAME and aspect ratio. There has been threads on this board about it. I don't know if anyone has found an easy solution though but I might give it a go too.

Yeah, I thought it'd be an easier fix but I'm still at a bit of a loss. From my research it seems like MAME just doesn't like aspect ratio mismatches, so if you try and play 4:3 games on a 16:9 screen, only vertical lines up with horizontal losing alignment the further away from center you go. It seems most other guns offer a 4:3 offset to fix this, like Gun4IR. I haven't yet tested alternative versions of MAME though, they may have different input handling that gets around this issue, retroarch may fix it and I might wind up setting it up anyway for PS1 games and other console titles.

Do you know what the problem with using DemulShooter is? I'm guessing it's some kind of mouse input type related problem?

I believe the issue is that whatever output VD is sending out is just a simple windows low level input hack, while DS is expecting an actual hardware device. You can't select the input from VD inside DS. I can partially get it working by using it with a hardware mouse and the usesinglemouse console command, the gun doesn't do anything but if I move the mouse it updates to the absolute position of the gun, and if I click the hardware mouse shots are fired at the position of the gun. I imagine you could fashion a clunky workaround with a fake hardware ID, but from my testing so far the only thing that DS seems useful for on a 1 gun setup like this is for CXBX, which is still fairly buggy and only useful for 2 games. Everything else has worked without it, and there's a good chance that CXBX will eventually get some better native mouse input support, or I can fix the issues I'm having with it.

New version seems like it works perfectly on Index, thanks a lot.

I'm glad to hear that it is working now.

Before I forget I thought I should attach my right click border script (courtesy of a guy over the AHK forum) for anyone interested

Thanks for that AHK script, could be very useful in future. I might have to get out my tracker gun and give it another go.

I can only play MAME stretched fullscreen right now due to it not properly offsetting for 4:3 and expecting that to be handled by the gun.

People seem to have frequent issues with MAME and aspect ratio. There has been threads on this board about it. I don't know if anyone has found an easy solution though but I might give it a go too.

CXBX seems to have some calibration issues I've got to work out because most people are just using DemulShooter instead but I can't

Do you know what the problem with using DemulShooter is? I'm guessing it's some kind of mouse input type related problem?

New version seems like it works perfectly on Index, thanks a lot. Got it pretty close to dead on with a couple of tries, fine tuning should be easy enough with OVIE.

Before I forget I thought I should attach my right click border script (courtesy of a guy over the AHK forum) for anyone interested, which has worked so far in every emulator and game I've tested it in. It just takes the 5 pixel outer border of your monitor and converts left clicks in that area to right clicks, which works well with VD. You might have to adjust the timer delay from 20 to something higher on slower systems, and the program is set up for 4k so you might need to redefine the posX and Y to match something smaller.

Right now I think I'm pretty happy with my setup. I've got a few more emulators to try out, but I can play the vast majority of stuff I've tested. CXBX seems to have some calibration issues I've got to work out because most people are just using DemulShooter instead but I can't, and I can only play MAME stretched fullscreen right now due to it not properly offsetting for 4:3 and expecting that to be handled by the gun.

After doing the thermal tests, I then decided to do some voltage checks. Hard to do with the monitor still in the cabinet, so I removed the chassis, located components of interest, hooked up jumper leads to them, labeled the leads, then put it all back in the cabinet and flicked it on. I could then test each lead with a multimeter from outside the cabinet without sticking my hands in dangerous places.

Something odd I noticed is when doing the thermal camera checks, I had the game board off and only the monitor turned on, and the clicking sound would be constant. I also had no static feeling on the monitor glass.
When I was testing the voltages later on, it clicked a few times when I turned it on, and didn't click again. Now it has a slight buzz coming from the neck board and the monitor has static if I run my hand over the glass, so the flyback must be working now, right?
It no longer clicks when I turn it on. It just behaves like it's not getting a signal and still doesn't display the 'no signal' message.
Except for one round of tests where I actually got some color and very distorted blips of the 'no signal' image, but I could never make it appear again. 

I can hear the tube static trickle away when I shut the monitor off, so it sounds like it is degaussing.

Have a look at my marked-up screenshot of the schematic. I've noted where I tested for voltages and the results I got. It seems to me like maybe the IC404 is my issue if you look at the voltages on their pins, and take into account the thermal image of this chip. It's very strange that I get 0V near R490, but have 11.9v at R493. I did test those resistors on-board and their values are correct, but maybe I'll pull them and see if they're still good.

Or maybe it's T401 not creating the voltage IC404 needs to operate?
Or maybe T403 isn't working and it's messing up T401?
At C432 beside T401, I get ZERO voltage. I think it's supposed to be around 18v?

I also tested the Neck Board voltages at the connectors, and compared to what the printed values said, I got:
4.98v (should be 5v)
7.19v (should be 8v)
170.2V (should be 170v)
11.93v (should be 12v)

Lastly, I tested these parts and they're good:
Q404
Q419
C432
D416
D423
R438
R440
R492
R491

I'm thinking of just getting an IC404 and slapping it in there and seeing what happens. Unless you guys have some other tests I should do to narrow this down, or suggest some other parts I should get at the same time just in case I get another domino effect.

So I'm messing with this for the first time. I've used CRTEmudriver for a while but never used it to run modern PC games. So I'm just trying out a few games and was recommended this thread.

Instead of adding a modeline for every resolution, I saw a comment from 2020 that said to download a standalone version of Switchres. Is that still the recommended way to do this in 2024?