Recent Posts

Toshiba (A68KSM696X):

Lh   0.196mh
Lv   13.8mh
Rh   0.6 ohms
Rv   6.9 ohms

I have another philips tube (A68ESF002X43):

Lh    0,309 mh
Lv   5,2 mh
Rh   0.340 ohms
Rv   4,680 ohms

Remember that I'm using a philips tube (A68ESF002X11) with the Toshiba original yoke (A68KSM696X)

If I hypothetically use directly the A68ESF002X43 philips tube including his original yoke, with the nanao or the sanwa chassis, I would have to modify the chassis to make it compatible with the philips yoke's Lv   5,2 mh, in that case what capacitos need to be changed? and what values?

unfortunately, major modifications such as this are outside the scope of my expertise... but with the inductance values of those coils being as out as far as they are with each other as they are, i suspect the donor tube's yoke has been designed with its own frequency in mind and modifying the cassis enough to drive it would greatly reduce the yokes lifetime... allow me to explain a bit.

when a company designs a yoke for a tube, you tune it to be near the oscillation frequency you plan the ultimate output to be. ideally you'd have it at the same frequency as a single scanline to be the most efficient. of course, there is a fair bit of leeway either way and we often sacrifice efficiency for the convenience of an already existing off-the-shelf part by tweaking the tuning.

there is a particular model of monitor that is capable of switching frequencies between 15khz, 25khz, and 31khz... the yokes are disintegrating on them because when operated out of their manufactured ideal range... while they do "work", they produce copious amounts of heat, making the plastics and resins in them used to build them and hold them together, break down and literally fall apart. the reason for this is that different value yokes are used for lower frequency monitors (single frequency) opposed to those monitors that operate in higher frequency resolutions. trying to "shoehorn" a yoke that was made to display a particular frequency, and be driven using a completely different frequency, is really bad for it. tweaking a little bit is okay, but with the values your suggested replacement has, way too much.

while I don't doubt you COULD get this yoke to work with whatever resolution your original monitor is, whether you SOULD or not depends on how long that yoke is going to last being driven under those conditions. like, if your donor LH was 0.201 or 0.180 id say you could probably be fine swapping it and just adjust some settings and be good, but being 0.113 out is too much to just yolo it. you can also tell your donor tube runs a way different resolution than your existing tube, just by the vertical yoke value. 5.2 vs 13.8 if the donor was 4 to 6...maybe.

again, I'm not saying it's impossible, its just you have to factor in how the yoke itself was originally designed and kind of work with that as well.

Hi Calamity,

thanks

So that means all games cannot run fullscreen, as you can only adjust vertical in hardware to match a certain resolution ( like R-type since big overscan there), but then the other games have black borders up and down the screen as their resolution is "smaller" as opposed to R-type's res.
It would make sense i guess, as in the arcades you never had all games on one monitor either

I just wanted to check how other are dealing with this when you do want to play f.i. all horizontal arcade games on one CRT TV.

The way i do it now, is i adjust both vertical and horizontal width in TV menu for playing games in groovymame, but i have to switch those values back to original when i play my original consoles games (saturn,snes,pc engine..)

Is there another way to do this properly, how are you guys dealing with this on your setups ? Do you have another aproach to have all games full screen with no overscan?

No. You need to adjust the hardware for correct vertical size.

I think so long as the frame is Mongoose it will be fine. Then you can enjoy teaching down all the missing genuine peripherals.

That's what I was thinking if it even matters to us.  The recent Mongoose remakes of the Supergoose and California Special go for at least $750 plus shipping so for an original I figure it's pretty good.

Looks in great shape for a chromoly survivor of the era!

My buddy Tom had one that same frame set.
Memory betrays me on the maker of the bars and it seems like that seat wound up on everybody's bike eventually at some point, but those Bear trap style pedals took a lot of skin out of my shins BITD.
 

Funny, because my (considerably more humble- and heavier) Diamond Back Viper had the same rear dropouts I believe.

Man, what a great time to be a kid that was.

Yeah, my elementary school raffled a Redline BMX back in the 80's one year.  EVERYONE wanted to win that thing.

Well to that end, I was able to find one on Facebook yesterday and snagged it for $110.  Hopefully, it's not a brick.  I really wish we could get an i-pac or someting to work with the software.  Now i just need a Jamma board.  Don't want to have to get the new ones from Global VR. The prices are too outrageous.

Andy

thanks Substring after reading i understand that:

we cannot so the vertical ( unless hardware adjust with pots in TV or service menu of tv or video slider option in mame but causing artifacts in game)
It seems we can do horizontal centering ( also possible in mame video sliders without causing artifacts), but not horizontal width-adjustements of the screen without creating game artifacts  using those same video sliders in mame
 
The issue i always have is that we have games like awesome games like r-type that have a resolution as such that we end up with standard generic_15 with a huge overscan in comparison to other games

My current workaround for this issue is to adjust my overscan for a game like r-type (as it is often the biggest overscan of all games as for me at least) ,after that change, most arcade games that i play (15khz) will have no overscan after this change, but the game-screen will not fill the entire screen

Is there another way to do this properly, how are you guys dealing with this on your setups ? Do you have another aproach to have all games full screen with no overscan?

I think so long as the frame is Mongoose it will be fine. Then you can enjoy teaching down all the missing genuine peripherals.

looks like people are impressed with the build quality and more authentic gameplay
from dragons lair:



later
-1

Very nice! Makes me really miss my Skyway TA I had.     I loved that bike. It was strong but light. I had the KKT Lightning pedals (that also took a lot of skin). It was a racing bike but I beat the heck out of it on trails and jumps. Sigh...the gold ole days.

J_K_M_A_N