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You could also try disconnecting the wires completely from that one input. If it still does it, then the problem is most likely related to the ipac itself

So, i decided to try some web programming and ended up making an online daily word game. If any of you like playing wordle, maybe you want to check mine out and tell me what you think. www.verbalshift.com  This was my very first attempt at something like this.

Hello and ok I am an idiot.  please bear with me and help me.  My electrical knowledge is, I can plug stuff into the wall, and a little bit more.  I have a A1up Golden Tee Classic.  I want to remove the control board and hook up a HDMI out port to enable me to take the game and play it anywhere there is a TV or projector.  Is this possible?  What do I need?  Please help me!! Again I'm and idiot!!!

Thanks in advance!!

Cruis'n World and Offroad Challenge act exactly the same.

San Fracisco Rush can't even set to neutral and has no button assigned in mame.

First off I'm probably not the best one to try to answer this question but......  I'd start by disconnecting the coin mech, attach the wires to a spare arcade button, open notepad and one press should equal one 5. Then open the winIpac software just in case there's a repeat selection (don't know if that that's an option). Other than that make sure there's no other software installed causing this behavior. Wish I could be more help😐

Thank you very very much. Glad to hear I wasn't stupid. I will check if the other midway racers behave the same.

Just checked the MAME source - yes, kinda crap what they did there.
Nothing you can do though. I'll send in a patch to MAME.

That would be the expected behavior. No gear engaged = neutral.
It's a bit weird what mame does.

Good to see you around btw

I don't understand the question in the first place.

Do indeed switch to neutral by tapping one of the 4 gear inputs twice.
On a real shifter, I'd move the stick to 1, then pull it slightly back (to have the microswitch in the shifter open) then have it snap back to 1st - you're in neutral now.

You want it to switch to neutral if moving the shifter into neutral position?

I don't think the schematic is correct for the chassis. Here's a closer look at the area in question

Reckon so too, and thanks for the new pic.

Don't want you to break anything, but maybe you could pull it off to get a closer look? There could be markings on side/below we cannot see from above. You could also possibly measure it using one of those meters.

You can confirm if it is an inductor by just using your DMM in ohms mode, as described above.

If it is an inductor, the red dot suggests "2" but without more markers or clues we wouldn't know if it is 22mH or 2200mH, for example.

OTOH, on your latest photo I see there is a dot on the PCB that aligns with the red dot, so possibly just a polarity marker?

You might want to check how hot it gets when TV is powered on. In the ideal world you'd have a thermal camera or a thermal probe for a multimeter, but realistically you probably don't. Failing that, and if you are feeling brave, maybe you could carefully hold a finger nearby.