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Upgrading my Mame cabinet with the latest releases (I'm a couple years behind). All fresh new Romset, everything configured and working BUT 0.284 gives me a driver error message for karnovr.cpp when opening neogeo games. Something about non-sequential bios. This message does not appear when launching from the OG Mame exe. Any ideas?

Edit: For whatever reason, if I launch through a front end this message doesn't appear. So for my use this is not a deal breaker. Still seems to work just fine.

Frankly, I admire the creativity everyone had back then.  I made a couple of cabinets that were prime candidates for that website.

 

Hi, thank you for the reply!
In the meantime I was able to fix it myself but I guess the solution was similar.

I admit, that I never had to manuelly calibrate my wheel. And there is no option to do so in the systemcontrol panel you mentioned.
All I ever did was to install the profiler and the wheel autocalibrates when windows starts.

But I remembered playing Ford Racing 3 not long ago and I had to play around with the pedals a lot since they did not work initially. And it still shows strange behaviour - separate pedals work in gthe options but not ingame - combined pedals the other way around.
So I fired it up again and recalibrated the pedals inside that game. The game itself still has issues using a wheel but whatever.
And suddenly, the issue was gone.

So I guess all needed was a manual recalibration of the pedals.

all the best
Vic

Or this classic approach...

http://crapmame.com/2019/09/15/crapmame-6-of-30/

Ohh Noes... The Amazon Scammer is trying to hurt my fee-fees.  Whatever will I do?


 You should realize, that Im not embarrassed about my Ancient Prototype.  In fact, Im quite proud to have built THREE
Custom Controllers:

A Analog Sinistar Stick, with a Custom Rubber-X centering SpringA

A Super Hangon Controller, with Twist Throttle + Magnetic Reed switch Brake mechanism, that actually worked in mame
(That game uses two switches, to function properly)

A Starwars Yoke, with 4 unique triggers

 I even built a Custom Spinner, with a Tron-Like Base, dual ball bearings... with the intend to TRY to eventually make it
out of Clear UV reactive Resin.   Unfortunately, my plastics + molding experience was awful.. so that project fell apart


 The truth is, I never cared if others thought my CP looked Ugly.  It was built with the sole purpose of playing as
many games as possible, with the correct controllers.   When everything was mounted together, it actually was
comfortable, at any of the 6 positions.

 But mid-project... my ideas started to Change.   For example.. I discovered the Joys of Leafswitch controls,
and that alone, threw my original designs for a loop.  I also was struggling to make a custom 6 way shifter,
before eventually picking up some Race-Drivin shifters off of Ebay.

 There were other issues too... Such as Mame not even supporting Toggle based shifters.  No encoders that had
enough inputs for what I wanted to do... (without switches involved).

 A lack of funds.  A lack of Space (which is why I opted for one unit, rather than multiple cabinets / stored panels)
 And being too busy with Work

 Then my health took a nose dive.
 Then all of my arcade controllers, got stolen out of my minivan (while in the process of moving)

 Joy.

 But yeah, keep trying to punish Creativity and Innovation.  It just reeks of Jealousy, Pettiness, and bruised Ego issues


 For the record.. the new Design Idea that was forming... was going to be a Horizontally Rotating system, similar to
another creative BYOAC innovator (cant recall the username anymore).  Except my idea, was that it would be a
massive.. fully enclosed... "Environmental" box.   It would have had multiple monitors, 3d Mirror effects,
surround sound / movie Theater,  and would have had a suspended Bed that Lowered into place.

 I also thought about making UV reactive plastic carved panels, so that artistically, it looked somewhat similar internally..
to the Discs of Tron Environmental Cabinet.

 But eventually my health got super bad... and I lost everything.  So be happy... because you likely will never see another
creative prototype, let alone a new controller.. from the notorious X2.


- But at least I can say, that I provided the Artwork Scans for Discs of Tron, in Mame.
(years before Mame could even support it in its proper full color depth)

- Created the Blacklight Backdrop photo for Video-Pinball, in Mame
- Sent Schematic copies in for Discs of Tron Environmental's  lights to get working properly in Mame
- Got a rare  TX-1 Rom Dumped for Mame  (turned out to be a Duplicate, but still... it was Dumped)
- Helped in the process to get Multiple Mice into Mame
- Helped in the Arguments about supporting unique arcade controllers into mame (and took the abuses, for even speaking up about it)

Your video makes no sense at all.

 In your first video, you seem to be pressing the ball Downwards, and its actually moving the ball
slightly down.. which shouldnt be possible.

 In this new video, you are intentionally pushing the ball horizontally... so of course its going to
come up off the rollers... because the TOP Plate isnt there to keep it Centered.

 There is always going to be more "Resistance" when both rollers are moving at the same time.
But you would never be able to move the ball like in your video.. because the Top plate is designed
to keep the ball Centered.

 Firstly, show closeup photos of the rollers.  Look for any wear marks, or an uneven spot, on the
rollers.

 Next, remove all of the rollers from the bearing holders.  Look for any Debris, in the housing.

 Next.. go to an Auto-Parts store.. and get something called  "Electronics Cleaner".  It will come in an Aerosol spray can.
 Also, buy a small bottle of  "3-In-One"  Lubricant / Oil  (Walmart might stock this, if the Auto Store doesnt)

Properly Checking + Cleaning + Re-Lubricating the Bearings...

*** Checking the Bearings for Internal Race-Damage / Dirt

1) Take all bearings off of the Rollers.

2) Hold a single bearing between your pointer finger, and your thumb.  Spin it slowly, while applying pressure towards
the center hub

3) While its moving.. you should not feel any changes in sensation.  If at any time, you feel a Grinding or tighter Resistance
level.. then you might have a bad bearing, that needs replacement.

4) However... the feeling of Grit, or Resistance, could also be internal Rust, or Dirt.  It might be possible to clean it out.

*** Cleaning + Re-Lubrication of Arcade Trackball Bearings

1) Attach the Red Straw to the Electronics Cleaner, for better spray accuracy
2) Place a single bearing on a your finger or hand, and spray one side, generously... so that it pools liquid on the surface
3) Grip the bearing between your Pointer Finger and Thumb... and SPIN the bearing as fast as possible... for a solid 15 seconds
4) Repeat this process again
5) Flip the bearing over..  and do the same exact process, already described above

6) Apply some 3-in-One Oil to the side of the bearing
7) Start to spin the bearing between your fingers.  Start slowly.. and gradually work your way up to full speed spins
8 )  Repeat on the other Side, just to make sure that enough oil got into the bearing housing

9) Clean the Metal Rollers... then wipe them down with a Rag that has a small amount of 3-in-1 Oil on it
Wipe of clean of any "Excess" oil


Now.. Make sure your Trackball housing is completely cleansed of all dust / dirt.  You can use the Electronics Spray
if you like.. to douse the thing..  then invert the housing, and pour out the dirty liquid that remains.  Wipe down
with a cloth... then Reassemble.

Additionally... Inspect The OUTSIDE EDGE of all bearings for any Dents / Defects
Inspect the Bearing holders for Any Hairline Cracks (use a magnify glass to check up close)
Inspect the UNDER-SIDE of the Top part of the Housing... for any uneven surface wear

Make sure that when the thing is reassembled, that there is no "Gap" between the top and bottom housings


And finally... Inspect the Ball Itself.. for any surface divits / pits.  Clean the ball with some rubbing alcohol,
and potentially use some car-spray, or floor polish, to lightly polish its surface


(Note... Do not soak bearings in WD40.  Trust me.  I ruined some rollerblade bearings like that)

I opened it up and the rollers were nice and clean, the bearings spun freely and smoothly. 

Here is what I discovered: it vibrates when you are rolling in a direction where two rollers come together in a "v".   So, it seems like there is clearance between the ball and top of the housing that allows the ball to rise up on rollers when you are pushing the ball towards the "v".    Here is a little video that I created that shows what I mean: 

https://imgur.com/a/e4hbyHT

I didn't really see any way I could affect the spacing between the top of the ball and the housing so I'm not sure if there is anything that could be done to resolve this.   Thoughts?

Bought a machine that I plan on running Megatouch Maxx on and it's already got a PC in it running something called Global Touch HD and doing some internet searches, it looks like it's referred to as GT2001. It seems like a pretty generic knockoff of Megatouch. Some of the games are cool. This doesn't seem like it was emulated. Anyone know any more about this game?

The plan for the cabinet is to clean it up, use the existing monitor if possible, otherwise install a updated LCD monitor and run some sort of front end to switch between MidWay TouchMaster and Megatouch Maxx.

Or this classic approach...

http://crapmame.com/2019/09/15/crapmame-6-of-30/

Hey guys, i am new to all of this and made me a 4 LED Setup with my 58 Inch TV. It is to big, i have to stand behind the Couch and point to the TV. sitting on the couch, i am way to near. So i ordered a Fisheye-Lens and hope this will fix the problem with the distance.

BUT i have antother problem. When I calibrate the gun with 4 LEDs, the Wiimote has to be rotated a little bit to make all 4 Points inside the zones.
I made pictures and put my phone on the wiimote so you can see how angled i have to turn the wiimote to make it horizontal.

The slight rotation is fine. As long as the software signals that it's correctly positioned, proceed with the calibration process. 

Keep in mind though, fish eye lens is not programmed yet for definitive line-of-sight tracking. If you plan on using a crosshair (ie Teknoparrot games) on-screen, it'll be fine. Otherwise, don't depend on it.

Use a "Wide" angle lens instead. They usually come in the same pack as the fish eye lens.  Hopefully a wide lens will let you game on the couch while maintaining good tracking.

Hi,

I've got this set up and working, but the screen is rotated.  How do I rotate is back please?