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Started by abispac - Last post by abispac

i'm a service technician dealing with tons of these machines.

I can tell you how to configure ICT A6/V6/A7/V7 acceptors, I know nothing of how to configure any other acceptor that may be in there.

if you remove the acceptor from its mount (4 screws) and look at the front, you can slide the panel above the bezel up, away from the bezel about 1/2 inch... and pull it towards you to pull it off.

in there is a 4 switch DIP switch. you will want to configure the switches from 1-4 as on, on, off, off (sw1 and sw2 on) reinstall cover.

then the larger 8 position switch on the side should have them all off except 6 and 7 and the smaller 4 position switch bank should have 1 off, 2 off... then 3 and 4 will determine the pulse length of each dollar pulse which will depend on your controllers ability to read low pulses and how it rejects invalid pulses.

see http://www.ictgroup.com.tw/download/Dip%20Switch/A6.V6-USD4%E8%AA%AA%E6%98%8E%E6%9B%B8SWAUS470-R.pdf for dip switch settings for pulse timings

power on the acceptor and it will be automatically enabled in stand alone mode with pulse output. you will have to modify your power/data cable with the appropriate wires to use pulse mode. check in the A6/V6 manuals for pinouts of the interface for where you should have the common and pulse wires. these wires will be where you connect them to your interface to get "credits" (microcontroller or whatever) the common and pulse wires will be "connected together" for each dollar inserted. (so a $5 bill pulses 5 times, a $1 pulses once, etc.)

EDIT: the programmer you would need would be an FP-001 and you would also need test/calibration cards to calibrate the acceptor after programming, which you won't get unless you bought a kit or bought them separately. i haven't purchased the current FP-004, as i have nothing additional it supports, so i'm no help there. the only reason to re-program or have the tool to begin with is if you need support for newly released bills or you've repaired the optic scanner and need to recalibrate it.... and it's not worth it to buy unless you have a bunch of them (like more than 20)... just pay a local company to do it for you if you just have 1 or 2. (search for game operators or vendors... or the like in your area and ask... we re-program units for 20 bucks each or in bulk by the shops hour rate.) but honestly if it doesn't need reprogramming, there is no advantage to doing it.

hope this helps
So I scratched my head almost all night and I couldn't make the acceptors to work.
I followed all of your instructions but no pulses are detected.
Now I few years back, I did play with a pulse bill acceptor, by using a 5v Arduino relay, it was simple. 5v to the relay, ground to the relay, and the n.o. from the bill acceptor to the in of the relay. Also the ground for the acceptor was together with the relay ground. Doing that , I had the relay outputs to a keyboard encoder and all worked fine.
I've tried to follow the same here, but I get nothing everytime I inset a bill.
The relay won't detect the pulse.
Then I tried adding 5v to the input 1 on the bill acceptor to no good.
Tried different mseconds outputs but nothing seems to work.
I even set 20 pulses per dollar in hopes of seeing something but no go.
I even added the 5v to the n.o. output on the receptor but nothing.happened. At this point I'm not sure what else to do.
My goal is to send a signal to a keyboard encoder as I did in the past. Any advice will be surely appreciated. Thanks.

Started by bobbyb13 - Last post by danny_galaga

Is it aimed at the young hipster crowd who will imagine it's virtually the same as the real deal?

Started by Rocketeer2001 - Last post by Rocketeer2001

I got all the parts last Thursday...except for that on resistor, which shipped separately and didn't arrive until today. Put all 3 parts in and...still broken :(

It did behave differently this time though. I had the game board disconnected from the monitor so that I could see if the "no signal" appeared on the screen first before trying to boot up anything else. When I turned on the power, there was a sizzle of high voltage going to the CRT, so that was good, but then the chassis board starting making a quickly repeating clicking sound, similar to a geiger counter. There was also the normal clicking of a relay that I heard before, but still no image on the screen.

I turned it off, then reconnected the game board to see if having a signal would make a difference. Turned it back on and the sizzle, clicks, and relay clicks were there again, but this time the geiger counter clicks got quieter and the relay clicks got slower. Sure enough, there was an image trying to form on the screen, but it was all garbled with micro-seconds of dim clarity of the "no signal" image.

Then there was a loud BANG and I saw a spark at the neck board. I shut everything down, let it cool down for a few minutes then took the neck board off to see if any components exploded. They all looked visually fine; I think it was just a grounding discharge. Not sure why that would happen.

The new clicking sound was coming from the same corner of the board that all the horizontal collapse components failed around.
The spark on the neck board was just left of the neck if you're looking at the back of the board.

I haven't taken anything else out to inspect. Getting a little tired of this monitor. Although, it's technically no longer horizontally collapsing, so I guess that's a win. It's just fritzing in all directions now.

I will now open the floor to any questions and suggestions for the next course of action.



Started by nipsmg - Last post by nipsmg




Got my Pi5 in and had to at least get a POC running.  Still have a ton of billing work to do so I wont' have a ton of time to work on it, but I'd like to get to it this spring.

Started by nipsmg - Last post by nipsmg

Maybe a dumb question, but is there a place to edit the text?  As an example I noticed it says "2rd" place.  I don't know anything about programming but I can edit config and XML files!  I poked around but didn't find anything.  I saw it was mentioned in a post from 2021.

that's a bug.  I'll have to fix that this spring when I get a new final release out.

Started by laphlaw - Last post by MartyKong

I just wired the PC power switch (two pins on the motherboard) to an extra arcade button and put it on the upper backside of the cabinets.  Reach around the back and click the button - instant power on.  (and a second button below it for reset). 

Then I use a 'smart' power strip to turn off all the extra stuff (audio amps, monitors, etc) that is controlled by the PC itself.  :)
[/quote
That's how it's done.....

Started by abispac - Last post by abispac

So the computer works, and it works fine, but im still debating on wheter i should keep it or not since having the bios locked, it wont give me to many options to modify it in order to save me from trouble in the future. One of them being that the computer wont shut down. And thats important, as i dont want to leave the juke on all the time. Maybe on linux it was not a big  deal to turn the juke on and off of the switch directly, but we all know windows is more picky than that, especially if it has a sata harddrive. Now the second issue is (im getting old and behind on harddrive technology) that even though the computer has a m2 compatible connector, it wont take m2 drives, i tried to use my personal one, and it wont detect it. I beleive its an m2 sata connector? as the drive it has right now its an ssd sata drive, that it looks like an m2, but after looking in google i found out its a sata drive, just like the one at the bottom on the following picture, so to not complicate things more, ill just get me a bigger sata drive, te hardrive with sata cables i mean. So im gonna keep it simple. Also it looks like this  type of bios can be decrypted to get the password, so ima try that in order to have acces to the bios to see if it can be modified so the computer can shut down.So far thats all i got left, if icant make the computer shut down, ill just repurpose it for a recalbox arcade console and sticka mini pc in the juke that would support m2 drive. All depends if i can get the bios password cracked. I really would like to keep it original inside as it looks clean and nice even though it does have a space where the IO board was. Anyway, ill keep posting. To bad my  phone broke and i dont get another one till wesneday, that the reason i post ghetto drawings instead of pictures.

Started by NateFromTheInternet - Last post by nipsmg

Ha, yes, Bangor cork (edited).

    
Adhesive:
   $12.22
   
Cork: 10 Lineal feet
   $142.52

Shipping    
   $36.93

TOTAL    $191.67


WOW that came down-- whenI looked a few years ago it was over $400.  I'm definitely doing this this year.

Started by JayBee - Last post by outrunner

Hi, I recently setup a new old PC just for GUN4IR but the setup software doesn't seem to detect the gun. It's working as in I can move the mouse around, just the utility doesn't see any guns.

In Device manager I can see a com port appear when the GUN is connected, so I tried to install the driver from the GUN4IR folder but it reports "JB GUN4IR Pro Micro P2" "A service installation section in this INF is invalid". Any idea how I can resolve this?

Thanks

Started by l1nt - Last post by l1nt

I have confirmed .5 slo-blow is the correct fuse here. I picked this machine up as-is from the former Skee-Ball world champ and he run several dozen of these machines up and down California. He confirmed that is the fuse for F2. Might be time to find someone local with boots on the ground to look at it. I appreciate your help and humor!
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