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On my arcade PC I have 14100F. I wonder how will work on this processor.

EDIT. Time Crisis II stil works slow even on this processor.

smooth job on those trace repairs! and great thread overall, thank you.

Thank you Butters!

There's one more thing I'd like to cover before closing off on this project, the "width capacitor".


WIDTH CAPACITOR


These TVs all have the same basic layout, and somewhere near the yoke pins, flyback and HOT you can find capacitor, usually a brown polypropylene high voltage type, with a value of around 334 (330nF) to 684(680nF)-ish. Changing the value of the capacitor can change the width by up to 1-2cm. Mostly I want to bring it in a little.

Now yes, I feel a bit lazy calling it the "width capacitor", and of course there are other capacitors involved in screen width. Sometimes there is more than one cap there (capacitors in parallel add values). But for now that's what I'm calling it, and it is pretty easy to identify.


     



So, this TCL TV had a 364 width cap. I changed that for a 474, and gained an extra 6-8mm on each side, so roughly 1.5cm clawed back from the overscan region.

Compare the following before-and-after pics from the Nokia test screen at 720x480i. One on the left has the 364 cap, one on the right has the 474 cap.



 



Finally, here are some pics of a game in action, and the frontend menu screen. See how the sides have been pulled in more? That bowing or wobble on the right side has lessened too.

While I was in there I found a nearby capacitor with a cold solder join, so reflowed that, may have helped a little with that bowing too. I used my Dick Smith ESR meter to check that cap, and all the other electrolytic caps around nearby and in the power supply, but found nothing suspicious.



   



I could try to squeeze those last few horizontal pixels out of overscan by going up to a 564 (560nF) width capacitor, but I am happy with the outcomes already. So, I call that a win and stop there for now as I have other pressing matters.

Oh, and those zener diodes for input protection - I changed them from 6.8v to 12v. I'm imagining that the black levels look better. Will update the schematic diagram above later.

I'll leave you with one last pic - At the back, I swapped the red and green connectors to their correctly labelled positions. Made the connections a bit sturdier too.







Peace 

width cap

Sorry for the delay. Yes, I did update the both DemulShooter and the plugin.

I had someone asking me the same question for the same issue a couple of days ago.
It turned out that the new plugin dll has a different name than the older one and he just copied over the new BepInEx folder without removing the old one before

And ended up with 2 plugin dll files messing with each other
Removing the bepinex folder before updating fixed it

Can you check that ?

Great work and like you say they don't take up that much space

Please post some build pics when you get the chance 

A quick update (V0.962b) to fix an annoying bug I introduced, where the 'Coming Up' message icon was prevented from being displayed.
I've also changed the method for updating texts in all displays, to populate the displays even if not currently visible (so when they become visible, they have correct values already prepared) - marginally quicker.
I've also tweaked the mini-media display transparency, so if no video is playing, the queue / popular lists display more clearly.
Also fixed the sound-effect volume calculations, so sound effects should now more accurately respect the jukebox.ini volume settings.

Link here:
VideoJuke - 0.962b

smooth job on those trace repairs! and great thread overall, thank you.

Not sure why its stretching the pics...
Anyway - heres the dark shots...

Hey guys! Its been quite a while since I posted here.
I have this project some may find interesting - so I figured Id post and see what you all think.
I started with a MAME cab way back in 02....had that for a few years and then got into full on collecting games in 06. That lasted until 2013 at a peak of 40 games. I got tired of all the room and energy they took up, so I went back to MAME and built a machine with a widescreen monitor on top and a rotated 50" tv masked off to a 4:3 ratio so It would display artwork dynamically as well as the simulated crt scanline, shape and curvature. Problem with that was there was quite the learning curve with all the different controls on one control panel.

As I was collecting the smaller "playable" machines from New wave games, I thought it would be cool to have something like these but in full size...
So I designed what I call the SlicerCADE!
Imagine cutting the front foot or so off the machine and lopping it just below the control panel - then hang it on the wall!
Im going for pure authentic FEEL of a real arcade machine - with more robust technology, smaller footprint, and less energy consumption. 
All my cabinets are roughly 25x42x12" and use the same template for the component mounting. Some slight mods are made to mimic the real machine and to compensate for the monitor layback.
My goal is to rebuild my collection (most of it at least), and also have the graill games I never was able to obtain - all for ALOT less money.
Some are using RP4 boards, some are using micro PCs so I can run a more robust version of MAME that will handle outputs and better Vector rendering. They take about 30-40 seconds to boot. A bit long, but once they are on - they are on.
Im also using 24" monitors that are rotated and masked off to 4:3. The3 controls are all arcade quality using leaf switches instead of cheap microswitches for a more authentic feel.
I know there are things out there that you can buy, but they are kinda crappy for what im looking for - and not dedicated.
Im trying to get a 95% or better authentic look and feel to the original cabinets.

So far I have 5 completed shooting for abot 25 or so (depending on the wallspace I have - LOL)!
I can do full writeups on some of the builds if anyone is interested - in the mean time I figured Id just post what Ive got and see where it goes.
Hope you all enjoy!!
V~

I've been trying to get this to work with RPCS3 for a while, but I can't get past the calibration.
I've read through this thread, tried multiple scripts, tried rpcs3 from before august 2024, but none of it works.

Getting to the calibration and the trigger working and gun seeming calibrated but not being able to press X to proceed is wildly frustrating.
None of the mouse combinations ever work for me.

Help would be appreciated.

Update: I've found a somewhat hacky solution, in rpcs3's config directory, I modified gem_mouse.yml to put both "X" and "Movebutton" on mouse3, then "O" on mouse2, keeping the trigger on mouse1, I got through callibration and can play the game. Deadstorm standalone, tested Darkside Chronicles which also works, but with a different button setup. Not the most elegant solution.

What I don't understand is why rpcs3 dont recognize mouse4 or mouse5?
And does anyone know the correct formatting for the button combos in the configfile?

I'll do some more testing later, I've gotten way to frustrated over this at the moment.

RPCS3 Version: 0.0.37-18022-9c93ec0b Alpha | master | AIMTRAK lightgun