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I volunteered for a New York City you waste program. A managers shoed me some of the gems they have collected from people throwing them away as e-wast.

I have tried CRU and it's works!!! 
CRU has installed the 1280x800

TBH i hadn't thought of that! Using CRU to override the EDID on top of the emulated EDID from crt_emudriver, gee.

I'm glad it worked, but i swear half the time i manage to actually help ppl i only do so accidentally :/

I got about 30 mins. into it with the kids before we had to leave and they want to finish it off next time they are over.
i was liking it.

EDIT: never mind, here's the fix!

Thanks for the tip, I will keep it for a future time....if I end up having any admin issue I don't have now 

Hi All,
New to lightguns and demulshooter having problems in sega model 2 setting up two guns.
I have built two Samco guns but can not get them to work in sega model 2 together. Installed and set them up in Demulshooter all is fine. When in game each gun controls the same curser. The blue one stays in the corner. Each gun works fine in single player. I have checked the ids for each gun and they are assinged correctly in demulshooter.
I have followed the instructions on the wiki page but still the same. Any ideas?
Thanks

If you followed all steps the best thing to share  a demulshooter log :
Add a -v option in the command line, run model 2 and demulshooter and play around a few second with both guns.
Then close everything and share the debug txt file created in demulshooter's folder



Demulshooter v10.7.2

- Corrected non-working "change weapon" button bug for Virtua cop 3 (Chihiro)
- Corrected hook for "Wild West Shootout" : DemulShooter can now be started anytime ( before or after the game )
- Added support for various other binaries of Haunted Museum 2 (Taito Type X). See wiki for more details about compatibility.

Fearland utility patcher (no crosshair) has also been updated on the first page

Thanks Argon

most color TUBES are the same... about the only difference is if it's a single focus or dual focus gun setup. otherwise the pinouts and everything are the same irrespective of the gun directions (horizontal or triode stacked or whatever is moot.)

the main difference is the yoke, they are all almost different and depend on the frequency being driven and whatnot... and if you change the old yoke over to the donor tube, it's nothing to worry about.

Any news on this?  Sorry, but I'd really like to know if the chassis does work on the Philips tube.

Btw. I've read on other forums that the factory pre-adjustment of Philips tubes does only work with the original yoke.
AFAIK (or remember) the plastoferrite sleeve that sits towards the back of the yoke is the part that is adjusted, and if using another yoke,
 the usual magnetic rings have to be used.

I avoid using glue if possible. With plywood, blocking pieces (1 generally use 1"x1") and appropriate screws you don't need glue.

However, if you use MDF (or a nailgun), then I'd suggest glue with the blocking pieces. Use a quality PVA-based wood glue like Titebond II, as it is easy to use and water cleanup (comes off hands easily), non-toxic, good for great many applications, dries reasonably fast, and is sandable. If the piece isn't screwed in, use a clamp and some scrap wood (or put something heavy on it) to keep the joins together while it dries.

Selley's Aquadhere is a common Australian brand/variant.

I also use Titebond (or other PVA wood glue) to strengthen or fill any dodgy parts of low-quality or splitting plywood. Use a clamp while it dries. Titebond is also good for sealing edges to keep moisture out, like someone suggested earlier.

Assuming your happy with your original OG Mame build (and don't plan on moving anytime soon) an alternative might be to widen the door entrance. My brother purchased a 80 inch monster TV set for movie night back in the day and widening the doorway was the answer. A bit of drywall, frame remove/replace was all it took. Of course, If your looking to update your cab that works too. Just another idea

This entire build went under the radar, I think.  It's fantastic.  Got any videos of the conversion process or how the pinball games run?   

Welcome.

A foldable bartop is an ambitious project.  I am pretty sure you need to tell a raspberry pi to output to 4K and that the default retropie setting is 1080p which is why things slow to a crawl on a 4K monitor.  I ran into this issue a while back.

As someone who has built a bartop... I'm not a huge fan of the form factor.  It takes up way more space than you think it will because you need a table or counter to put it on.  Yours is going to fold up so you could put it in the closet I suppose when not in use but in that case I bet you wouldn't play it as much.  Lots of people here (myself included) who want something compact but can still play all your favorite 80s games have built a "Tully" (named for a former member here), which is really an Atari cabaret style cabinet that has the controls at counter height but a very small footprint.  You get the added benefit os being able to use a PC instead of a raspberry pi, which is way better.  Just something to think about.

Good luck and take lots of pictures of your progress.