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Hello,

I am new to the arcade board, so hi. I am interested in creating my own arcade games for the Midway 8080 arcade boards. What emulators can I use to test my games?

As I am new to MAME, I do have a few questions... And some feedback would be greatly appreciated...

I am building a full size cabinet based on the Defender style, which is no problem. What I would like to do is, instead of a full console with tons of buttons, I would like to have "pullouts" like drawers, to create each possibility, like one exclusively for Defender and Stargate, but also PAC Man, Missile Command, Tron and even a few other games. As you know, each can use basically the same consoles, but instead of a bunch of buttons, I would like to keep it real as to the originals.

Instead of hacking a bunch of keyboards to do this, is there something I can use to employ actual buttons, rollers, dials etc... to accomplish my idea?  Something that would incorporate every design I may wish to use?

As I stated before, keeping to the control panel is a MUST to make it worthy of an actual game that everyone was used to.

Is there ANY way I can get a FULL controller that could incorporate this? Set up the buttons, the joysticks, rollers, to just plug in after pushing the new drawer in? Every drawer would be different if course and I suspect a good three or four would work quite well.

I am running a Dell 64 bit 3.30 GHZ Windows 10 Pro with 6gigs. She runs flawlessly with no other programs installed.

Please help on this because otherwise I will be hacking keyboards and soldering stuff forever!

I know this must be easy for someone here. Just some ideas on how I can pull this off!

Thank you in advance! Plus, I will help to explain my build.

 

5A 250V printed on the switch.

That is the rating for the switch, not for the LED.

They are in the same physical assembly, but are not electrically connected to each other.

It has a 6.8K resistor

That is a much higher value than expected for 5VDC or 12VDC power.

Only application I can picture that would use that large of a resistor is if you're using 120VAC to power the LED.   

I want to know if I plug this switch into my 12V chain, will it blow the LED? Seems like it should work if all the other button LED's do.

12v will blow that LED unless you use the right size current limiting resistor.

What you don't see about the other button LEDs is that there is a current limiting resistor hidden in the LED holder.



Javeryh used these volcano switches in his build here.

So anyone have any idea how to wire the volcano buttons?  I got them from Arcade Shop. 

You'll find lots of useful  info in that thread.
- The one change is that instead of using 5v to power the LED, you plan to use 12v so you'll need a much larger current limiting resistor than the 220 ohm that he used.
- Javery's setup dropped 2v across the LED and 3v across the current limiting resistor -- 5v total.
- Your setup will need to drop 2v across the LED and 10v across the current limiting resistor -- 12v total.

Running these numbers through an LED calculator, returns a current limiting resistor value of 510 ohms, 1/4W.
- Power supply voltage = 12v
- LED voltage drop = 2v (found in Javery's thread)
- LED current rating = 20mA
- Number of LEDs = 1
https://ledcalculator.net/#p=12&v=2&c=20&n=1&o=w
- Note: You'll need a 5% (or better) tolerance resistor because 10% and 20% don't come in this value.
https://www3.nd.edu/~jott/Measurements/Sensors/Standard_Resistor_Values.pdf

If you reduce the LED current rating to 15mA, you get a 680 ohm, 1/4W resistor.
- This will be almost as bright, and should extend the life of the LED.
- The current limiting resistor will also have less wattage to dissipate (153mW vs. 204mW) so it will be cooler.

- Note: 680 ohm resistors are available in all tolerances.


Scott

Only cosmetic stuff is left.

Right now I can sit in the chair and play the game.

I am really ---smurfing--- happy about that.

Closer.

What next?

Beautiful.  That looks great and it's only going to get better.   

I would imagine that PC will be fine for GroovyMAME.

From the UMSA page- "Converts 15Khz RGBHV via a DSUB HD 15pin  to 15Khz RGBS SCART signal"

You will need to use separate H- and V-sync (which is default) and not set up anything in the PC for composite sync.

Agreed. It was nagging me before that you reported the issue happening when returning to BigBox. If you can't replicate the issue when running Groovymame directly, outside of BB, then it must be a BB issue   

ArcadeVGA AGP cards, 1x version 1 and 3x version 2 (with DVI-I out). Version 1 card top right.

Extra holes on the round svideo output suggest component video output, which is supported with the Radeon 9250 chipset ArcadeVGA is based on. The two cards on the right have this (version 1 and red version 2). Two cards on the left do not.