Author Topic: Drilling holes in MDF (Read 14364 times)

The cranky hermit · « **on:** July 24, 2003, 09:49:21 pm »

In case you don't already know, I have a relative who is an amature woodworker, and I was planning to work together with my relative to build my CP.

I just had a chat, and my relative is worried about the holes. My relative only owns a hand drill, and it is too small for the 1 1/8" bits. We will have to rent a drill press. My relative is worried that the holes will not come out right, and be crooked; not perpendicular to the panel, and that we'll have to go through many sheets of wood to get it right.

Is this something to be worried about? How often do the holes come out wrong when you're inexperienced with woodworking? Would it be a good idea to make some practice holes in plywood first, before actually drilling the MDF?

Also, how much does it cost to rent a drill press?

Thanks in advance.

aricade · « **Reply #1 on:** July 24, 2003, 10:06:13 pm »

Well I drilled a few last minute buttons without a press I just used a regular Drill with a 1 1/8th bit. It seemed pretty perpendicular to me just did it by eye and it worked fine. Just try and drill straight down. That's all I did.... MDF there will be lot's of saw dost, blow it out occasionally as you do it..

Cheers

DeafBug · « **Reply #2 on:** July 24, 2003, 10:07:57 pm »

You will want to practice it. The drill press will not have enough room for you to drill the holes near the middle of the board unless you are making a simple CP like 12 inch deep. But if you are making a 2 or 4 player then you might need to practice.

If you use a shank bit since it is long you can quite see if it is straight up. You look at it from one side, N/S. The relative look at it from the other angle, W/E see if it is straight up before drilling.

cdbrown · « **Reply #3 on:** July 24, 2003, 10:13:29 pm »

I think your worrying too much hermit. I drilled all my holes with my hand drill using a hole saw bit - not a drill bit. It was very easy and didn't drill/cut any holes other than straight down. In my opinion a drill press is unecessary.

A hole saw normally comes with an arbor bit which helps to align the saw with the centre of the hole. As you start to drill/saw, the teeth of the saw will come down the the wood, if all the teeth are touching the wood before you start to cut then there's a fair chance you'll make a perpendicular hole.

Good luck
-cdbrown

unclet · « **Reply #4 on:** July 24, 2003, 10:52:17 pm »

I drilled about 50+ button holes using my 1-1/8" drill bit with no problem. Just eyeball it to keep it straight.

The cranky hermit · « **Reply #5 on:** July 24, 2003, 11:07:54 pm »

Quote from: cdbrown on July 24, 2003, 10:13:29 pm

I think your worrying too much hermit. I drilled all my holes with my hand drill using a hole saw bit - not a drill bit. It was very easy and didn't drill/cut any holes other than straight down. In my opinion a drill press is unecessary.

Interesting. I think I'll do that. They sell 1 1/8" hole saw bits at Home Depot, right?

AlanS17 · « **Reply #6 on:** July 24, 2003, 11:08:03 pm »

Actually I don't recommend a hole saw for MDF. It chews and tends to clog the blade. A spade bit does WONDERS, though. It goes through it much quicker and simpler. If you want to start it with a smaller bit you can get your pilot hole first. That would make it much easier if you're concerned about direction.

I drilled all my holes with a hand drill. I think your wood-worker is getting too comfortable with all his pretty tools and is forgetting how to do things the easy way.

CanStick · « **Reply #7 on:** July 24, 2003, 11:14:01 pm »

I use forstner bits with a hand drill, and the holes turn out perfect every time!

cdbrown · « **Reply #8 on:** July 24, 2003, 11:30:14 pm »

True the teeth do get clogged up but it still cuts through it. I have drilled 30 holes in 3/4" chip board and 38 holes in 5/8" MDF so far without any problems. The main reason I like the holes saw over a spade or drill bit is that it is only cutting with the teeth and they're all in the same plane so once you have started to cut into the wood it is very hard to change the direction of the cut. Spade bit is easier to change direction (for me anyway) because the blades are angled and can chew through the wood fairly easily - but that's just me. Found it alot easier with the hole saw.

The cranky hermit · « **Reply #9 on:** July 24, 2003, 11:31:41 pm »

Quote from: AlanS17 on July 24, 2003, 11:08:03 pm

If you want to start it with a smaller bit you can get your pilot hole first.

Pilot hole? Uh oh. I thought all you had to do was make a single 1 1/8" hole all the way through. I guess i was wrong. Could you explain EVERYTHING I need to know? Maybe step by step directions for drilling a hole suitable for a pushbutton and happ super?

And my woodworker doesn't have any fancy tools; just a hand drill and sander.

hyiu · « **Reply #10 on:** July 24, 2003, 11:46:15 pm »

well.... I also do NOT have a drill press...
and I bought a spade bit.... (I think that's what its called...)

Its flat....

I try to hold prependictular and drill in....

so far... the holes seems fine.....

I guess do a couple of practice on scrape wood....

you should be fine without a drill press....

night · « **Reply #11 on:** July 25, 2003, 01:04:27 am »

for the love of god, its just a hole. unless you are drilling blind folded, it will never be off enough to be even slightly noticeable.
just get the bit (i always called them auger bits, but maybe im confusing it with another type) and go at it.

MDF cant be any easier. it comes out in corkscrews with a perfect cut.

AlanS17 · « **Reply #12 on:** July 25, 2003, 01:24:32 am »

You don't HAVE to make a pilot hole. Only if you're nervous. Just practice on something else ahead of time if you're worried. A pilot hole is just a small hole you drill so that a larger hole can be aimed more easily. That's all. It's not necessary. They're quick and simple, though, and take the guesswork out.

night is right... It's just a hole...

P.S. Hole saws have built-in pilot drill bits, but I think spade bits cut better. I've used both.

crsdawg · « **Reply #13 on:** July 25, 2003, 02:41:41 am »

hermit,
the other guys have pretty much nailed it on your question about the drill press. they are nice, but not necessary. i'll throw another tip your way. if your going to use a handdrill. make sure the cp your drilling is setting kinda low, below waist level even. if it's to high you tend to drill at an angle. i have one of those benchs that have a clamp built in the top that is the perfect height. it's not a big deal, but it helps.
good luck

bionicbadger · « **Reply #14 on:** July 25, 2003, 10:57:13 am »

You can drill the holes with a hand drill no problem. If you are worried try it out on a test piece of scrap mdf. Dont worry about perfectly perpendicular, unless you are drunk or have some perception problems, you can eyeball it close enough. There is a slight bit of wiggle room anyway when you put the button in, and when you screw it tight it will become flush, even if the hole is off a few degrees from perpendicular.

A forstner bit makes the cleanest holes, but is also expensive. If your relative has one the right size use it, if not you can buy something cheaper. A hole saw or spade bit might chip the edges a bit, but this will be covered up by the lip of the button, so you shouldnt see.

Night is correct. Don't worry about it so much about it, its just a hole. Try it out on some scrap and see.

rampy · « **Reply #15 on:** July 25, 2003, 11:51:21 am »

If you're really anal about it being perfectly straight you can get "hand" drill guides (i.e. a mini-quasi drill press)

Note: I didn't use any guides and used a crappy hand drill with a 1 and 1/8" hole saw and my only problem was running out of juice with my 7.2 volt crappo black and decker rechargeable!

Also note, even if you "eff" up entirely there's a good chance the flange/button bezel will obscure 90% of your flubs anyways! (the top of the button is greater than 1 and 1/8" which is handy, as otherwise it would fall through the hole! =P

rampy

The cranky hermit · « **Reply #16 on:** July 25, 2003, 11:58:27 am »

Thank you, everyone. I will tell my woodworker not to bother renting a drill press, and to get some new bits instead.

I have another question. I am going to put a Ms Pacman/Galaga 4-way in there, with a metal mounting plate. How do you make a recangular hole? My woodworker suggested using a key-hole saw, but I have no idea what that is or how that would work. I don't care about it being flush or even attractive. I just want it to work.

bionicbadger · « **Reply #17 on:** July 25, 2003, 12:15:08 pm »

Quote from: The cranky hermit on July 25, 2003, 11:58:27 am

I have another question. I am going to put a Ms Pacman/Galaga 4-way in there, with a metal mounting plate. How do you make a recangular hole? My woodworker suggested using a key-hole saw, but I have no idea what that is or how that would work. I don't care about it being flush or even attractive. I just want it to work.

If your relative is into woodworking he should have a jigsaw, thats what I would use for cutting out a rectangle. You just drill a hole in the board first to get the jig saw blade through and then give 'er.

djsting · « **Reply #18 on:** July 25, 2003, 12:38:18 pm »

Drilling:
I own a drill press but could not used it for this project as I made a large 4 player CP. I just used one of my hand drills, the cordless one, a forstner bit and a nifty little drill guide from Home Depot (you attach your drill to it and then you basically have a totally mobile drill press) ensuring a straight hole everytime. The forstner bits do not cut through the wood as quickly as a standard bit or a spade bit but this will also help you to not make any mistakes..faster only allows you to make your mistake faster and worse than if you go slower with more caution and attention. Just don't rush. Drill guide info: Here's one exactly like mine but they are only aobut $30 at Home Depot http://shop.woodcraft.com/Woodcraft/product_family.asp?family_id=3121&refcode=04INO143

Cutting:
Use a jig saw if you. I used my Rotozip and it worked amazingly well...I love that tool. I suppose that a plunge router could be used but only if neither of the others are available (it will be harder to get straight cuts).

TalkingOctopus · « **Reply #19 on:** July 25, 2003, 12:44:15 pm »

I used a spade bit. It worked just fine, just be careful centering it before you start to drill.

If you use any lexan for your cp, I would reccommend a hole saw for that. A spade bit works ok too, just go slow. Whatever you do, do not use a normal drill bit for small holes on your lexan or lucite -- get a spade bit.

The cranky hermit · « **Reply #20 on:** July 25, 2003, 01:15:23 pm »

I'm not using any overlay whatsoever. Just a bare wooden surface.

CanStick · « **Reply #21 on:** July 25, 2003, 01:23:54 pm »

Quote from: bionicbadger on July 25, 2003, 10:57:13 am

You can drill the holes with a hand drill no problem. If you are worried try it out on a test piece of scrap mdf. Dont worry about perfectly perpendicular, unless you are drunk or have some perception problems, you can eyeball it close enough. There is a slight bit of wiggle room anyway when you put the button in, and when you screw it tight it will become flush, even if the hole is off a few degrees from perpendicular.

A forstner bit makes the cleanest holes, but is also expensive. If your relative has one the right size use it, if not you can buy something cheaper. A hole saw or spade bit might chip the edges a bit, but this will be covered up by the lip of the button, so you shouldnt see.

Night is correct. Don't worry about it so much about it, its just a hole. Try it out on some scrap and see.

Around here, Forstner bits aren't very expensive...about $8.00 CDN for a 1 1/8" bit...only a couple of dollars more than a spade bit, and cheaper than a hole saw....

AlanS17 · « **Reply #22 on:** July 25, 2003, 01:58:56 pm »

A spade bit is the cheapest bit for a hole of that size and it just so happens to work the best. You can probably pick one up for like $2. I bought a full 13-piece Craftsman set at Walmart for like $10. Like somone else mentioned, though, you'll want a holesaw if you plan on cutting plexi or lexan.

Just drill it, though. It's a non-issue.

hyiu · « **Reply #23 on:** July 25, 2003, 02:14:15 pm »

ohh.... just 1 little tip... if you're using spade bit....
(already said on other threads... nothing new... )

if you're usign spade bit to cut a hole....
don't go all the way.....

drill far down enough so that the center hole passed thru.... (but not completely done...)
then turn the wood upside down, and use that center hole and finish the hole starting from the other side....

that will make the other edge cleaner...

hope it helps...

AlanS17 · « **Reply #24 on:** July 25, 2003, 02:35:27 pm »

Quote from: hyiu on July 25, 2003, 02:14:15 pm

ohh.... just 1 little tip... if you're using spade bit....
(already said on other threads... nothing new... )

if you're usign spade bit to cut a hole....
don't go all the way.....

drill far down enough so that the center hole passed thru.... (but not completely done...)
then turn the wood upside down, and use that center hole and finish the hole starting from the other side....

that will make the other edge cleaner...

hope it helps...

That seems to typically be a problem with regular wood. So is chipping. I've never had an issue of that sort with MDF, though. The stuff just turns to powder. (I'm still coughing some up from the work I was doing during my lunchbreak.)

Amra · « **Reply #25 on:** July 25, 2003, 04:00:57 pm »

Occasionally a tiny bit will break of the edge on MDF, but nothing like wood where half the doard comes off if you dont reverse drill, so drilling straight through shouldnt be much of a problem.

I used a cordless drill and still got mine all straight using a spade bit, all I did hold the drill with two hands, and as soon as the flat part touched the wood, I made sure it was scratching all sides and then held it tight and pressed really hard, simple enough

xar256 · « **Reply #26 on:** July 25, 2003, 04:38:23 pm »

The spade bit should work just fine. If you are worried about the MDF chipping put some masking tape over top of where the hole is supposed to go, that will help minimize the chipping.

For cutting a square hole in metal...The jigsaw is fine. Just be sure to use a METAL CUTTING blade. Odds are your "woodworking" friend has a wood cutting blade in his saw, and you won't get far with that trying to cut metal.

Xar256

The cranky hermit · « **Reply #27 on:** July 25, 2003, 04:40:59 pm »

Quote from: xar256 on July 25, 2003, 04:38:23 pm

For cutting a square hole in metal...The jigsaw is fine. Just be sure to use a METAL CUTTING blade.

No, no, no. I'm getting a pre-cut metal mounting plate from Oscarcontrols. I want to know how to cut a rectangular hole in the wood, not the metal.

xar256 · « **Reply #28 on:** July 25, 2003, 04:43:05 pm »

Sorry...Misread your post...You posted back before I could correct myself.

Xar256

Inaba · « **Reply #29 on:** July 30, 2003, 12:10:57 pm »

Definitely use a forstner bit for drilling holes. I've tried all three types (Forstner, hole saw & spade) and the Forstner is definitely the bit of choice for drilling holes in MDF.

Apollo · « **Reply #30 on:** July 30, 2003, 07:12:28 pm »

For the square hole for use with the OSCAR mounting plates ( I am using "Apollo" mounting plates, lol, but they are pretty much the same ) just measure and mark out your square then drill a hole in each corner ( using a bit slightly wider than you jigsaw blade ) then just jigsaw along the 4 straight lines you have between your 4 holes, simple.
To stop ripping out the back of your panel at the end of your drilling just clamp a piece of waste wood to the underside of your control panel. Drill through the control panel and then slightly into the waste wood and you should get a perfectly clean hole.

mohrt · « **Reply #31 on:** July 30, 2003, 09:02:33 pm »

Quote from: AlanS17 on July 24, 2003, 11:08:03 pm

Actually I don't recommend a hole saw for MDF. It chews and tends to clog the blade. A spade bit does WONDERS, though. It goes through it much quicker and simpler. If you want to start it with a smaller bit you can get your pilot hole first. That would make it much easier if you're concerned about direction.

I second that, I tried a hole saw bit and it just clogged up and didn't work worth a dang. A spade bit worked perfectly. The backside didn't come out perfectly clean, but that isn't much of a concern since it is never seen. The spade bit is also much cheaper than a hole saw bit.

steve_pss · « **Reply #32 on:** July 30, 2003, 10:29:45 pm »

WOW!
Never seen so much attention paid to drilling a hole, but I certainly remember wondering the same thing when I made mine.

Never used a forstener bit (looks cool) but the spade bits will work great.

Anyone got a link to a guide for the hand saw? Sounds cool and very handy.

One note for you:
I had great luck with MDF and the spade bit until I started the plexi holes. The hole saw (running backwards with a real, not cordless, drill was the ticket for that. Food for thought.

aust_txv · « **Reply #33 on:** July 30, 2003, 11:01:46 pm »

Dude chuck up that spade bit or forstner bit and go to it.
I use forstner bits because the the hole is very clean. Buy a medium quality spade bit (sharp and hard) the exit hole is a little messy, BUT you will never see that. I have used a RottoZip also but this takes practice. If you are cutting metal a step saw is the way to go.
Have fun,
TV

MiKman · « **Reply #34 on:** July 30, 2003, 11:36:00 pm »

Quote from: mohrt on July 30, 2003, 09:02:33 pm

Quote from: AlanS17 on July 24, 2003, 11:08:03 pm
Actually I don't recommend a hole saw for MDF. It chews and tends to clog the blade. A spade bit does WONDERS, though. It goes through it much quicker and simpler. If you want to start it with a smaller bit you can get your pilot hole first. That would make it much easier if you're concerned about direction.

I second that, I tried a hole saw bit and it just clogged up and didn't work worth a dang. A spade bit worked perfectly. The backside didn't come out perfectly clean, but that isn't much of a concern since it is never seen. The spade bit is also much cheaper than a hole saw bit.

If you want the exit holes to come out clean, try and stop just before you go through and flp the panel over and go back through. You will have clean holes on both sides everytime.

TalkingOctopus · « **Reply #35 on:** July 30, 2003, 11:54:49 pm »

Why is a clean exit hole important? My mdf chipped a little bit with a spade bit, but as far as I know, it made no difference. The buttons are fastened just fine and no one can see the inside.

I would be more worried about centering the buttons using a hand drill than a clean exit as well as drilling through lexan or unfortunately in my case lucite.

However, if you want perfection, get a forstner bit and follow the suggestions on the board, but most importantly go SLOW.

"Nobody can see that" is a dangerous way of thinking

Jakobud · « **Reply #36 on:** July 31, 2003, 12:58:35 pm »

Okay i'm not going to bother readying all the replys so i dont know what the 'consensus' is here, but geez forget about a drill press. Just use the hand drill. Its not difficult at all to get straights holes. Just try it on a scrap piece of MDF. If you get a drill press and stuff you are being WAY too particular.

ThePunk · « **Reply #37 on:** August 02, 2003, 03:06:06 pm »

If your all so worried about the backside of the hole blowing out, you can just clamp a scrap piece of wood to the back prior to drilling... No blow out at all.

Apollo · « **Reply #38 on:** August 02, 2003, 09:26:47 pm »

Hello, I already told him that.


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