New pinball table build: PIN-o-RAMA - 40/28/12

[elfman12]

Ok, I'm back and now commenceth my pinball cabinet construction… I’ve been checking out the projects of others and have been inspired. I have lusted after many of them, so I figured it was time to get crackin’ on my own. I’m tentatively naming this build “PIN-O-RAMA”, but that could change. (I like PIN-ACHE, but that sounds so dang pretentious!)

I built my first MAME standup cab “Arcade Renaissance” back in the winter of 2002 –
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=4154.0
a four player rig we’ve enjoyed ever since. I learned quite a bit during that construction (made it a bit too big) so I hope to learn from my mistakes… hehe.

I’m basing this around a 40” LCD panel, with (for now) a 24.2” WS LCD Backglass and a 9”x12” 4x3LCD for the DMD.

When I built my first MAME cab, I followed some great advice from here on BYOAC and saved my control panel for last! This kept me from getting sidetracked with PLAYING before the cab was finished… and helped me get it along most of the way done, hehe. (I never did plexi the top of the control panel…)

Now with this pincab, I’ve been stuck since that I’ve loaded up Hyperpin and VP/FP and have my monitors in their TEST positions. It’s tempting to just play and not work!!!

Gotta concentrate… gotta concentrate….

Anyway, my biggest dilemma has been the playfield monitor. I decased the 40” last night, and I BELIEVE that I’m going to be able to fit this into a 22”(ish) box and use a standard lockdown bar. The LCD measures 21-5/8” width decased, and 37-3/8” long. I’m looking at using ¼” “Plytanium” plywood (from LOWES) for the sides, so the total width of both should be 22-1/8” wide. Terry from pinballlife.com (great folks) provided me with the INSIDE measurements of a standard Williams/Bally lockdown bar: 22-3/16”. This will be CLOOOOOOOOSE, but I think I can make it work (maybe a bit of creative routing). We’ll see…

Here’s my parts list so far (most ordered from Newegg):

PLAYFIELD: SCEPTRE 40" 16:9 4.5ms 1080p LCD HDTV X400BV-FHD
BACKGLASS: Hannspree Black 28" 2ms HDMI Widescreen LCD Monitor
DMD: Dell 12”x9” LCD monitor (used)
GRFX CARD: EVGA GeForce GTX 260 Core 216 Superclocked Edition 896MB
CPU: Intel Core i7-860 Lynnfield 2.8GHz (will OC to around 3.6GHz)
MBOARD: EVGA P55 LE 123-LF-E653-KR LGA1156 Intel P55 ATX Intel MB
RAM: CORSAIR XMS3 4GB (2 x 2GB) 240-Pin DDR3
PWRSUPLY: Rosewill Green Series RG800W
HDD: 500GB Seagate
OS:   64bit Vista U
FE:   Hyperpin

I’ve put the PC parts into a cheap mid-tower case. On my MAME cab I have the MB mounted with an arcade PCB holder, but I don’t like it that way for a couple of reasons: Grfx boards in PCI slots are wobbly: Screws etc. falling from work on other parts of the cab might land on running MB: RF interference will be cut down with a proper metal case. It’ll also be easier to work on the PC by removing it quickly and moving it to the bench.

I’ll try to document this build as best I can, especially since those who have done so have helped me IMMENSELY in preparing for mine – so thanks fellas!!!
-Elfman12

[Kman-Sweden]

Sweet! Can't wait. 

[elfman12]

A few pics:

Here are a few pics:

mockup before decasing

The 'puter

Perfect surface to decase an LCD on!

Easy as pie

Almost there

All done

Length of the 40" LCD

Width

A tab that's in the way, but nothing a dremel can't handle.



2nd Mockup. I had trouble configuring my second NVidia card (an older 9600GSO 512K) for the third monitor. (Running 64bit Vista) I'll work on that later.

...on my way!

[elfman12]

Super-quick 3dsmax render for layout/sizing.

I wondering about scaling the backglass box up (vertically) a bit so that the DMD monitor doesn't have to go down into the cab.
Any thoughts?

[IG-88]

I love these builds. 

Can I ask how much $$ you've spent so far on the monitors and other parts?

Have you considered running win7 or even XP over Vista? (I got me a sour taste for vista lately)

[bgspot]

This is gonna be sick! I'd luv to build one of these someday too. Keep us posted!

[elfman12]

Thanks, all. I put Vista on it but will eventually upgrade it to Win7. I have been running the RC of 7 since last July, and love it. I just had this license handy when I was setting it up, haha.

I'm finding sales on monitors (there's always a good one on sale), since there are only certain things that are a must (1080p on the playfield, view angle, response time, DVI or HDMI inputs, etc). And since only a few manufacturers actually MAKE the panels for all of these TV's, the specs are pretty consistent. A 40" LCD can be found for as little as $425 new and even $300 open box at some places (BestBuy is a great place to look). I found a 37" for $325 new (but wanted to go 40"). Since all you'll be using is the LCD panel itself, that makes the tuner/remote control/speakers etc. not that critical. A second monitor (for a 2-monitor setup) can be found for under $150 new. A simple dual-core PC can run Visual Pinball or Future Pinball quite well.

As for the pinball parts, just drop by your local amusement machine place and pick up many parts there. If not, ebay or pinballlife.com are great resources. The woodworking is simpler than my MAME cab, and I'm only using about 2 4x8 sheets for the main bits. The side art graphics will probably cost more than all of the wood and small hardware! 

I'm planning on building a table for a friend of mine (a surgeon that loves pinball, so he has the cash ), so I hope to have mine paid for by the profit from the that one. (I say hopefully of course, haha)

[Gamester]

Wow, a core i7 860 to run a pin?  That's a pretty beefy system.  Surely the requirements for Future Pinball aren't nearly that high?  If so, I may be putting off my pinball build longer than anticipated... that's a lot of coin.  I knew that it required a pretty capable video card, but I didn't think it needed a CPU anywhere near the level of an i7.   

Anyway, very cool project.  Curious to see how it all comes together!   

[elfman12]

Wow, a core i7 860 to run a pin?  That's a pretty beefy system.  Surely the requirements for Future Pinball aren't nearly that high?

Nah, just got a good deal on that CPU - was planning to use it in a video edit system, but that fell through. (I work with/configure PCs for a living) I might even test a smaller board/cpu in this after I finish the build, and if there's no major difference I'll move this PC out and put in something smaller. The GPU is the most important thing, though, you're right about that.
As I said in an earlier post, any dual core with an Nvidia (9800 or later) card would do just great, so don't worry!

[IG-88]

Did you decide to de-case the 40" just so you could use a lock down bar? I don't know if I would have had the "guts" to do it. My luck the damn thing would fail 2 months after I got it built and then no chance of returning it.... 

[elfman12]

Did you decide to de-case the 40" just so you could use a lock down bar?

Yes, pretty much. I want as little a bezel as possible, since I think that just looks more realistic, as a pinball cab. I wanted to be able to slide the 40" down into the table a little bit, or else I would have done like some others have done and "rest" it on the top of the sides, which really cuts down on the bezel size. That way though, the glass sits right on top of the LCD, and my preference is a few inches of space between them, which gives a more 3D look.

And since I was going to mount it de-cased, I needed to get measurements ASAP to plan the rest of the cab. Hopefully my measurements of the 40" can help others in their planning without ripping into theirs right away.

As for the de-case, I tested the monitor for several days to try and make it screw up, but it worked fine. Also, the de-casing itself is so clean that I should be able to put it back together with no issues (although I'm sure the techs could tell, but there weren't any obvious stickers saying "WARRANTY VOID IF REMOVED" or anything. Of course, if I lop those metal tabs off, there's no going back...

But yeah, it's taking a chance, and probably isn't for everyone.

[IG-88]

Totally off subject but I see you are a LOTR fan. Have you seen/heard this:

http://tinyurl.com/ybm5eko


Pretty cool.

[elfman12]

Totally off subject but I see you are a LOTR fan. Have you seen/heard this:

Cool, was that you? Nice job whoever it was - it's kind of hard to pick it out from the movie, since it's so subtle.

[IG-88]

No, not me   I could only imagine how I would make that sound.

[elfman12]

Ok, so I'm SCRAPPING my idea of using 1/4" plywood for the left and right sides of the bottom cabinet (to force a standard lockbar to work). I was going to use 3/4 for the bottom, front and back, but after checking the 1/4" out in person, it's just too flimsy.

Question is: Has anyone used 1/2 HQ plywood in their projects? I'm thinking of using 1/2" for the sides, and 3/4 for the bottom and backglass back. I started to move back to MDF, but really liked the idea of a table that will weigh less than a ton... (like my MAME cab does!)

[Kurt]

Nice hardware, Good luck with the build.

I'm using 16mm MDF on my full size pinball cab and im suprised it doesnt weigh as much as i thought. Easy to rout and fix.

[elfman12]

Yeah, MDF is easy to work with, that's fo sho. I'm just torn between MDF and plywood, now that's I've been standing in the aisles at LOWES comparing weight, grain, etc.
ARGH! Decisions, decisions, decisions! 

[Umpa]

Great project. I intend to start one very soon!

[Kman-Sweden]

 

[brock.sampson]

I have used mdo plywood for a couple of projects and have had good results.  It's a plywood core with mdf faces.  You get the best of both worlds.  Smooth easily paintable face and lighter plywood core that holds screws much better than mdf.  I haven't seen it at Lowes or Home Depot.  There is another chain in town called Menards that carries 3/4 and 1/2. 

[elfman12]

Ok, got the wood (3/4" HQ plywood) and got to cuttin'. Man, I couldn't cut a straight line to save my LIFE today! Gonna use lots of filler on this one (haha). (I wish I would have looked for some MDO now, sounds like nice stuff to work with! Thanks for the tip though, Brock)

I was able to get the base assembled and screwed and glued (the left/right/bottom only for now).
I have most of my parts in now (will need to get a custom lock down bar, though - the standard one I have is about 1" too short.

Anyway, next will be to sand/prime, cut the door in the back panel for access to the PC, cut the coin door hole in the front panel, then test the height of the playfield monitor and mount the side rests for that. Then I'll start on the backglass assembly.

I included the final file from 3DS Max of the build. Ignore the naked dude there, haha, I just downloaded a mannequin mesh to give it some perspective. He's about 5'5", my height. That helped me decide if the leg height and view angles would work well.

[elfman12]

More work tonight. I added the support 2x2's inside. Just had to add a few spacers to fit the cabinet hardware for the computer shelf. I had to add some stops to keep the drawer from going too far back into the cab.

I cut the back door out (very poorly I might add... hehe. I used the jigsaw from the wrong side and got chipping on the good side, and the blade hit the side of the table I was cutting it on and it curved a bit). But it's done. I think I'm going to go with the solid door hinges along the bottom to secure the door, and a pivot latch at the top.

Quick question, y'all. For those who have pin cabs (self-built or commercial tables) what is the height of your flipper buttons - from the center of the main buttons to the floor? I'm getting ready to secure the legs, and want to make sure I get them in the best spot possible. I measured an APACHE table and I believe it was 36".

Anyway, thanks!

[javeryh]

Nice!  I like the slide out drawer - it should make admin a snap.  I really want to build one of these things someday but I don't have room in my house!

[brock.sampson]

Javeryh I'll take one for the team.  Send me that DK cab you recently finished any you should have plenty of room.

 

[saleem]

why not buy a guide clamp.they are good for drawing straight lines,clamping (sort of) and they guide the power tools once you set the distance so the blades on the line you want to cut,clamps in place and leaves your hands free to cut,i used one (a lot) for my project and i got some nice flush joins.without it i would hate to think what would have happened,i used a jigsaw mostly.

[elfman12]

why not buy a guide clamp.

Thanks, I think I need one of those. I've been using a 48" straight edge (level) and clamping it to the board, but the clamps I have don't have that deep of a throat, so that wouldn't always work. A guide clamp would work great. Do you suggest any particular one?

[saleem]

i dont know realy as i think many people will suggest different products and i live in united kingdom.

all i can do is show you what i bought and its here:
http://www.rutlands.co.uk/hand-tools/work-holding/clamp-grip---guide-system

i ended up with a 50" one.dakota brand,it dont clamp to any particular depth of wood as it grips the edges of the wood you want to cut,seems sturdy enough quality.all i know is i wont go without it now,it is an essential piece of equipment for my tool collection and woodworking.i would have had the rickitiest cabinet ever without it.
 

[elfman12]

Thanks again for the info. I think I'll need to invest in one, since I've promised to build a couple of MAME bartops for friends... and that will save a ton of time.

One questions, is there a way to use it when you are cutting a line at an angle to the ends it's clamping to?

[javeryh]

A less expensive (and more accurate, IMO) method of cutting straight lines is to use a straightedge (I use a strip of plywood) and then a router with a flush cutting bit.  Use your jigsaw to rough cut your workpiece about 1/8" from where you want your straight line to be.  Then you can use two $0.99 spring clamps to hold the straightedge to the work piece.  You can line up the edge exactly with your pencil line and you don't have to worry about an offset or anything.  Once you get the hang of it you can make very accurate cuts very fast.

[Kurt]

+1 I have built my whole pin cab using this method.

P.S The draw idea is catchy  

[bigpete405]

Looking good . I can't wait to see more pics of the building process.

[IG-88]

.....Once you get the hang of it you can make very accurate cuts very fast.

Even tho you have to essentially make the same cut twice?

[skepticalgeek]

SERIOUSLY impressive! Would you consider posting the woodworking plans and instructions online once you are done and get the kinks worked out? While I have neither the skills, tools or inclination for that, I have friends woho do and can be bribed with pizza and booze.

[javeryh]

.....Once you get the hang of it you can make very accurate cuts very fast.

Even tho you have to essentially make the same cut twice?

Oh definitely.  It's not even close - the rough cut with the jigsaw takes seconds, it takes about 30 seconds to line up and clamp down the straightedge to the line and then less than a minute to trim it flush if you are going slow.  The hardest part is the layout.  You also never have to worry about missing your cut - if the straightedge is on the line and where you want it to be the cut will be perfect every time.

[IG-88]

I like that idea too. I'll have to try it out.

[elfman12]

Nice suggestion, javeryh. I th ink I might try that on the large backglass piece. The biggest trouble for me has been getting a clamp on the straightedge, and this method solves that. Thanks for the ideas!

@ skepticalgeek, Thanks! I'll try to post my notes later, since I'm making up stuff as I go (hehe). I think that the 2 biggest factors in a pincab are the size of the playfield monitor and the width of your lockdown bar. Sure, I'm going to have to adjust my lockdown bar, but I still wouldn't have made the cab wider, since I want as LITTLE bezel around the playfield as possible.

[elfman12]

A little more work - I put hinges and magnetic stop on the computer door, and will finish it with an arcade cabinet lock at the top right later.

I also installed the main cooling fan for the bottom section in the same door. It's a 250mm Red LED fan - it's REALLY quiet, and comes with a nice bezel cover and grill. I thought this might work better than 6-8 smaller fans, but we'll see when it's finished.

I routed out the circle dead center in the middle of the drawer and drilled 4 holes for the screw stems on the bezel assembly. I'll be putting one in the center of the back of the backboard as well.
I got it from here:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835705054

More to come. I hope I'm not boring anyone with these pics, but I know how much I love watching other people's system slowly build, and the more pictures the better IMO!

[Kurt]

Now that is a fan. how silent is it?

Pinball cabs comming out of the woodworks lately.

[elfman12]

Now that is a fan. how silent is it?

<24db is the spec. If you can get by without the grill, it's even more quit, weirdly enough

 I have an 80mm "silent" fan rated at 25 that I was going to use, but it's louder than this one.

[Necro]

Now that is a fan. how silent is it?

<24db is the spec. If you can get by without the grill, it's even more quit, weirdly enough

The grill introduces more turbulence to the air, which increases noise somewhat.  You can hear the air 'humming'/moving across the grate itself if it's moving fast enough.