T-Molding in 3/4" MDF with dado joints

[puckett_jw]

I am starting a cabinet using 3/4" MDF for the sides & 1/2" MDF for the front & back.  I am using dado joints to connect the front & the back to the sides so I have a 1/2" slot cut 1/2" from the edge that is 3/8" deep.  Since most T-Molding is 19/64" deep, that only leaves 3/16" of MDF to hold the corner on the where the dado joint & t-molding come together.  This seems like it will cause the part to break off, so I have a few questions...

* Should I be pushing the front & back into the cabinet to leave a larger than 1/2" reveal?
* Should I not make my dado exactly 1/2 of the thickness to allow for more material to be left?
* Should I cut off part of the t-molding to make it shallower?
* Is it OK, and I should just keep moving forward?

I don't actually own the bit that I am going to use for the t-molding slot, but I just orderd a 3 wing 1/16" from GGG, and I cannot tell how deep the wins cut--I am hoping that it only does the required 19/64"

[RobbyMac]

I just cut my t-slot the other day. for the 5/8" thick material. the slot is 1/2" deep. You might seriously consider shallowing your dado. Or perhaps even forget the dado and use bracing instead, or theres a good chance for tear out/weakening when the t-slot goes in.
I'm not even sure if it'd be better to do your t-slot first or last in this instance. hopefully someone more experienced will chime in.
 edit: I just measured my t-molding. keep in mind its for 5/8" (not 3/4) and the T measure about 5/16" deep, so the full half inch is not needed. but it seems like alot of extra work to route the slot, then trim it back later (and hope you dont wind up too shallow). Unless a larger diameter spacer bearing on the router is possible? Dunno. I suck at woodworking.

[Octo]

If possible, it may be better to cut your t-molding slot after the cab is assembled. Once your panels are glued and fastened in the dado slot, you won't need to worry about tear-out as much.

[javeryh]

If possible, it may be better to cut your t-molding slot after the cab is assembled. Once your panels are glued and fastened in the dado slot, you won't need to worry about tear-out as much.

This is exactly what I was thinking.

[cica]

I realize it's probably too late for you, but I assembled my cab with pocket screws.  This is by far the easiest method.  Dados are not required and they are plenty strong.  I probably went through 100 screws, but my cabinet's not going anywhere. 
-Tom

[puckett_jw]

I realize it's probably too late for you, but I assembled my cab with pocket screws.  This is by far the easiest method.  Dados are not required and they are plenty strong.  I probably went through 100 screws, but my cabinet's not going anywhere. 
-Tom

Thanks.  I had considered the screw method, but I really like the idea of the extra strength that dados give--or the perception of strength.  Additionally, with the limited space that I have in the small frame, I did not want to use up space with furing strips or add the weight to change the 1/2" MDF to something wider.  I have started the cabinet--here is the thread